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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/27/2022 in all areas

  1. FWIW, I've had all three Covid shots. Then got Covid at least twice afterwards. First time was sniffles for three days, and a sinus headache one day. Got it from my wife who was laid out with it for two weeks. Where she got it could be construed as a political dig, so I'll not disclose that. Second time was just a one night sinus headache, don't know where that one came from. At home test was positive for both of those, didn't get anywhere near sick enough to bother the medical profession with it. I still have a pretty stout constitution, so no telling if the mild symptoms were due to that, or due to the vaccines. Still, I'm not pro or con with the vaccines, I'm "it's your choice".
    3 points
  2. I've seen them both ways too. Personally I'd use the baffle pan after thoroughly cleaning.
    2 points
  3. No one replied right away because you had everyone sucking in their guts to see if they could manage it...then hesitant to admit you may be more agile than us...
    2 points
  4. Since you are new to Mopars of the 1950 vintage, let me introduce you to a great resource. One great resource are the great videos on Youtube by Keith in Canada. Another one is MyMopar.com. It even has the dealer filmstrips by subject that were shown to the dealer mechanics. Then click on Tech and that will lead you to filmstrips if you click on the TV, or booklets if you click on the red PDF symbol. You can even select by year such as this: https://mymopar.com/browse-mtsc-by-model-year-1950/
    2 points
  5. Hello all, Thanksgiving morning I purchased a '48 Plymouth club coupe. It is an older restoration with some mild '50s custom touches. This site has already been very helpful in researching these cars pre purchase, and with the little bit of maintenance I have begun. I looked at 3 of these cars in my area before deciding this one was my best bet. I have had a fairly large variety of antique cars over the years, but mostly non running projects that haven't worked out. I have 2 young sons, the older (5) misses the last old truck I had, a fairly nice, low mileage '72 f-100 that I drove quite a bit the first 3 years of his life. I am hoping this Plymouth will fill that gap and provide many more years of good memories for my family. Car runs and drives fairly well, but needs some electrical work, and a thermostat. Horns are disconnected, and sounds when connected. Relay is dangling with one wire unhooked from wherever it belongs. Heater, radio and clock don't work. Brake light was replaced with an LED one, but never wired up. I believe it may be a 12V unit, it seems the company that makes them are out of business. I installed the sedan bezel and light that came in my box of parts to find that 1. It fits terribly 2. Brake light switch is bad. I have a "Hopefully OK" coupe bezel and new gasket on the way, and a new switch was in the box of parts, going to try to install it today. Need to flush out the muddy river water that is serving as brake fluid anyways.
    1 point
  6. Hello, As a new member I thought I would introduce myself before I start posting. I am a former technician at a Dodge and Pontiac dealership '89-'97 and myself am a Pontiac guy. Hence the 69lm69gp handle for my 69 Le Mans my 69 Grand Prix (my first car). My wife, from NJ, drove a '50 Dodge pickup in high school (mid eighties) so I had been on the lookout for a project truck and found a '50 Dodge B-2-C-116 a couple of months back. This is my first pre '69 vehicle so I am new to flatheads and 6v electrical. I have already learned quite a bit while I have been lurking here over the past couple of months. But now I have some questions about things I haven't seen discussed. Thanks, Mike
    1 point
  7. I found a description on this site how to adjust the brakes by tightening the minor adjuster and then moving the anchor adjuster to release the contact. This seemed to work well. I also found a tool that was made by someone to make a final check. I’m not a welder so I built one out of wood which I am good at. I used the same principles. I used a nail as a pointer which made a sound when dragged across the shoe. It would change tone if it barely scraped to a slightly harder contact. Found that one shoe needed a slight adjustment and the rest were right on.
    1 point
  8. according to my documents and information you never reamer an oillite bushing. There is a special miller tool to install the bushing into the flywheel and then the same tool burnishes the bushing to the proper size. Here isa picture of the pilot bearing tool and burnishing tool taken from my Miller tool catalog.. I hae this tool and the c 41 to remove the bushing Rich Hartung
    1 point
  9. Beyond Mike's you should be able to get a kit from any auto parts store
    1 point
  10. I agree that it can be done with the engine in the vehicle. After it's running just drive it like my dad used to tell me how to drive my old junky cars. It will last longer that way. Drive it like there's a rotten egg between your foot and the gas pedal.
    1 point
  11. I've had the awsome bag of bolts sense May of last year. Currently I have Mr George Asche building me a 265 engine hopped up a little and an overdrive 3pd trans. I'm new to actually talking in forum's. I've always just read them lol. I have a ton of questions about this car.... So far I have had a best time tinkering with it.. I have the body off right now. Cleaned and Por15 the frame. Got the original engine and trans out. Right now while I'm waiting on the engine and trans swapping an 8.8 explorer rear end In it. Already swapped the front to disc..
    1 point
  12. The baffles are likely spot welded in. Untill the pan is clean, they can be difficult to see. Didn't you say your D24 engine was rebuilt or replaced at some point? Who knows if pan was swapped or modified at that time. I had assumed that all the stock pans were just wide open. Baffles are better. If years are correct, I wonder if they were dropped to increase profit on a aging motor, especially as the new Hemis became the performance option. As far as the slots, I would think they were intended to help oil drain back away from the crank seals. If I get my car on the lift this weekend, I hope to drop the pan and will take a picture.
    1 point
  13. No worries, don't spend any more time. I appreciate all the help you've provided so far. I had thought about placing an ad here, but haven't done it yet. I did look on eBay. I'll look for wrecking yards in my area that have old cars, although I don't think there are many. The upside to finding one in a wrecking yard is that I could go measure the parts before purchasing. Of course, there are also old car parts suppliers, some of which are wrecking yards, and maybe I will, now that I have some part numbers to try. Maybe they'd even be willing to take measurements for me.
    1 point
  14. After being screwed by a so called engine rebuilder many years ago when I had the original engine in my 1940 Dodge supposedly rebuilt which lasted less than 1000 miles before I discovered that the crank journals were scored(sump was full of swarf which hadn't been cleaned out) I vowed never to pay these jerks again to "rebuild" an engine for me, so when I decided to get the 318 Poly I'd subsequently installed in the 1940 Dodge rebuilt I disassembled the engine myself and learnt how to measure things........then took the block, crank etc to a different and more reliable machine shop......had them do the work including balancing then I picked up and assembled the lot and reinstalled the engine.........been going strong since 1975.......and no, I was not a mechanic,just a humble government clerk who just decided that I couldn't do a worse job than these "butchers" so decided to teach myself, got a workshop manual, proper tools and had a go........yeh, I was young, bright eyed and bushy tailed but these old engines are not rocket science, by all means get a proper machine shop to do the work but assemble it yourself...........its very satisfying and rewarding...........Andyd
    1 point
  15. My tolerance for heights has steadily diminished over the years. I used to thrill at being the first jumper, standing in the door of a C-130 with my "knees in the breeze" at 2,000 feet. Now I get woozy when I get on the roof of our garage to shovel snow off. Just watching that video gives me the willies.
    1 point
  16. If you are having issues with crimped connections it is most likely because you are using an inferior crimper. What I see in your photo leads me to believe you are using one of these abominations: The quality of the crimp is extremely poor and the amount of crimp is dependent on the operator's grip strength. All wire crimps should be done with a proper ratcheting crimper: The crimper will not release the terminal until full crimp has been achieved and the crimp occurs in two locations on the terminal. I've wired aircraft, boats, and cars with this type crimper and never had a connection fail. You can see the dual crimp securing both the conductor and insulation in this photo taken when I installed the turn signal switch:
    1 point
  17. Looks like you are puttin the nose to the grindstone Marc. CONGRATS!
    1 point
  18. A comparison of the older felt + rubber oil seal and the newer rubber oil seal I linked to will show that although they look similar, the seals are not the same. The metal adapter that screws into the transmission is referred to as a sleeve in the part manuals, and this sleeve was redesigned to accommodate the newer rubber seal, which eliminated the felt washer. The newer rubber seal mounts inside the sleeve, with the seal lips contacting the speedometer pinion shaft, inside the transmission case, so that no external seal is required for the speedometer cable. I am guessing that the linked NOS sleeve + oil seal was backwards compatible and was an upgrade kit back in the day to address the gear oil leaks at the speedometer cable in the older transmissions, as newer transmissions used this newer sleeve to accommodate the newer seal, which was a simpler yet more robust design that was easier to service. I had acquired several unknown-to-me transmissions years ago in a trade with another Mopar gearhead who was liquidating his parts stash as his projects were done and he was moving to Oklahoma for work. I noticed that several of these transmissions, manuals and automatics, had this same newer sleeve that was in the 3spd manuals in my B-series trucks. Without doing any further research, I assumed that Chrysler upgraded their transmissions with this newer sleeve + oil seal arrangement as needed. Truck 4spds had a different speedometer gear orientation that did not use the 3spd rubber seal, and the parts manual refers to it using a retaining nut instead of the sleeve. additional information - truck 4spd speedometer gear nut If'n ya had access to one of these newer sleeves, you could probably tell fairly quickly if your speedometer pinion gear would fit and could upgrade your transmission accordingly.
    1 point
  19. I put one in my D5 back in the middle "60" and ran it until I parked the car for over forty years. When I redid the car in 2014 it was replaced with another diaphragm clutch from Rock Auto. If my memory severs me correctly it was for a 60 or 61 chevy 6 cylinder.
    1 point
  20. Yes you could apply low 5-10lbs air pressure to the vacuum line starting at the shift control valve on the firewall. Use a spray bottle will real soapy water and spray complete line with it looking for leakage bubbles. If the factory line has never been cut or modified with poorly done hoses it really should never leak. At the control valventhete is a small 3/16" steel vacuum line leading thru the firewall and onto the speedometer adapter gearbox. I have seen that line on the "B" series trucks get worn through by the firewall metal cutting the line because of vibration. Check that line out too. Should be setup on your "W" truck very similar to the 1948-53 "B" trucks I think. The Dodge truck 2 speed axles are really pretty trouble free and are excellent fast and accurate easy shifting when all is factory installed and no funky repairs to manifold and or any other vacuum lines. The speedo needle should bounce just a bit to match rear axle up/down shifts...that small 3/16" vacuum line supplies vacuum to a small diaphram on the speedo adapter causing the little gear box to do a high/low shift just when the rear axle does.
    1 point
  21. Welcome from Rainy Washington, The Evergrey state! I'm relatively new here myself so I dont know much about pre 60's Dodges. But if you need help painting a Bridge or Hydroelectric dam, I'm your man!
    1 point
  22. I can't believe all of these complex solutions to a stupid easy fix. All I had to do was take a chisel, push it between the clips and rim and bend it in a quarter of an inch. Bingo, the hubcaps go on with just a slight push of my palm and they are on tight!
    1 point
  23. The hinges are spec grade stainless steel, but without bearings. Rust-resistant, but low frequency. I drilled a set screw into each pin, for security. The door sags noticeably, but there is a "ramp" to raise the door as it closes. I open the door a few times a year, to break it free if necessary. Once, the three-year-old neighbor girl saw the sign and read, "Exit!" The neighbor kids are fascinated by the window, especially when I open it and yell at them in their yard. The neighbor kids own our front screened porch. It's sometimes a hair salon, and sometimes a dentist office. With the patient reclined in the anti-gravity chair, the "dentist" proclaims, "Let's see if you're ready for braces." Our driveway, three cars wide at the garage, is their race course, for skates, bikes, and battery-powered kid-size cars. Our front yard is a gymnasium in season, for cartwheels and other feats. After a few inches of snow, the yard was a bobsled course, with mother and oldest daughter pulling the youngest daughter and the youngest, a boy. (The second-in-line daughter was probably inside reading, or doing piano lessons.) And they all enjoy the basement rec-room, with an array of Fisher-Price toys for the younger ones, and puzzles to challenge all of them. My son says that these kids are our surrogate grandkids.
    1 point
  24. Amazing the space I could fit thru if my butt was gonna be on fire. Seriously, nice work!
    1 point
  25. I have to say, I also miss Don and his input to the forum, (while perhaps mischievous at times}, Don certainly had a way of livening up a topic on the forum. There's no denying he was a wealth of helpful information. Don always amazed me with some of his input...Been there,done that - here's the photos...While Don's remarks at times may have seemed abrasive to some,I appreciated his sense of humour. Before I retired,I worked with a lot of different people through the years.. For me, Don would have been a most welcome member to any crew I worked with.
    1 point
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