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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/18/2021 in all areas

  1. The block-off plate is just a, uh, plate. I made mine from a piece of scrap sheet stock in the junk box. Use the mechanical pump as a pattern to make the plate. Slamming a door isn't enough shock to trip the inertia switch. I have to hit the firewall next to the switch hard with a heavy object to get it to trip. I've had no false trips with mine.
    4 points
  2. To be honest, it's guys like James that do the spade work and figure out what does work for us.
    2 points
  3. Many years back when I talked with a tech at Carter this is what he told me according to my notes: Part Number P4259 works on 6 volt positive or negative ground. The rebuild kit (no motor) is part number 888-178. The pump has a maximum pressure of 5.75 PSI. This unit is a full time on unit and will not allow for a proper flow through if off. This unit must be installed at a level equal to the bottom of the fuel tank. This unit must be within 2 fuel line feet of the tank. This unit typically drops between 1 to 1.5 PSI at the carburetor inlet. Less loss for shorter fuel line runs (Coupes) and more loss for longer runs (sedans). The only issue when using these pumps on small HP engines is as follows. These pumps must have 5 gallons of flow every hour to keep within operating temperatures. If you are at idle for over 30 plus minutes on a hot day in traffic and your engine does not pull enough fuel through the pump could overheat. The thing to do according to Carter is to put a fuel line tee up in the engine with a 1/8 or 3/32 orifice and a return line to the gas tank. That way the pump will always have enough fuel running through to stay with is temperature range. The carter man stated that he has heard of a few people with really old low HP cars in hot areas, on hot days, stuck in long parades, have pump problems. It is rare, but if you want to make sure that it never happens, then put the return line in with the orifice. ************** Now all the above said when I tested two out of the box 6 volt carter pumps I ran into an issue. When I put a fuel pressure gauge on the "T" and checked it I got about 3-1/4 to 3-1/2 pounds. Here are my many years old notes on that: The original mechanical pumps are supposed to be between 3-1/2 and 5 pounds. I thought that is a little on the light side, but once the generator is going, I guess the voltage will come up a bit and it will probably top 3-1/2 pounds. I then did a flow test. I put a graduated pale in the engine pay and ran the pump for one minute. I got 3 Pints. This is where things get odd. The pumps according to Carter are supposed to put out between 6 to 8 PSI and up to 72 GPH. That would be 9.6 Pints a minute. I called Carter and got a lot of double talk. I hit my 1957 Carter Master book which is 5 inches thick. In the back they have both the old Carter mechanical fuel pumps and the older larger vane electric fuel pumps. In the section on the mechanical pumps they show how to test them. They show their mechanical pumps, like the MOPAR manual, as having between 3-1/2 and 5 PSI. They also show that the mechanical pumps are supposed to: "Volume: One quart of fuel in one minute or less at 500 RPM" In the section in the book on Testing, Removing, and Overhauling the older style electric Carter fuel pumps, it states: "If the fuel pressure gauge is not less than the following the pump is satisfactory: 3 Pounds for a 24 Volt Pump. 2-1/2 Pounds for a 12 Volt Pump. 1-3/4 Pounds for a 6 Volt Pump." If I use the old original Carter specifications, my newer style vane pump is just fine. When I talked with the people at the service center, they just mouth the 6 to 8 PSI and 72 GPH song. When I asked for a PSI chart via voltage they tell me they do not have one. I ask that surely the 6 volt, 12 volt, 24 volt versions have different outputs. Nope, they are all the same I am told. When I ask what the minimum volume output is they tell me they do not know. I ask them to tell me how will they determine if a pump is defective if they do not know what to measure. They don't know. I took another unit and put 18" of rubber hose on it. I took 3 feet of #12 wire and connected it. I stuck the fuel gauge on the output of the pump. I put the end of the hose in the pale with the 3 pints of gas I took from the car test. I turned it on. Guess what, 3 PSI. It is obvious to me that the published specifications are garbage. Carter to American Car and Foundry (ACF) to Federal-Mogul to now some outfit named Castle Automotive. I think over the years that the original specifications have been lost and all that is quoted is the ones for the 24 volt version. I call back later and talk to another person. I explain what is going on. I asked for them to call up the food chain and confirm the minimum and maximum design parameters for pressure and flow for the six volt pumps. I am waiting on a response. I very much doubt that 2 pumps via 2 distribution channels a year apart are both "failing" in exactly the same way output wise. *************** Basically what I am saying is take the published specifications of these 6 volt pumps with a big grain of salt. If it works it works. I think over the yeas the real data is long lost. James PS. I have a friend who is a serious Cadillac guy. He has a 1958 Cadillac Eldorado Biarritz Convertible among other things. He told that in the late 1950's Cadillac used two fuel lines with a "T" at the carb if a car was ordered with Air Conditioning. This was to deal with vapor lock. I can see that is an electric fuel pump does not have enough flow through it during a parade or the like that the motor could over heat. I have run the return line on the '49 since day one and I never noticed any issues. I run it into the filler neck. We made a little pipe with a bed in it and welded it to the filler neck so the fuel returns there and runs back down into the tank.
    2 points
  4. So I just went out into the Dark night and messed around with it for a little while, didn't start it, just hooked the battery back up, climbed under the dash and followed the clicking noise, I should have brought a flashlight LOL but it turned out to be some type of relay or something that everytime it clicked Sparks shot out, I hit it a couple times with a screwdriver and it stopped, couldn't tell what it was hooked up to because it was too dark but I will investigate tomorrow during the daylight ?
    2 points
  5. I like to use a carpet that works great and is very quiet. But, you need to have an experienced upholsterer use it and it is not cheap. The stuff is from Bill Hirsh and it is a wool hogs hair carpet. James
    2 points
  6. Originally my wheels matched the paint. I saw this add and thought the wheels would look good in a cream color.
    1 point
  7. Let me go find my notes on this... One of my complaints about the board is the inability to do a serious SQL search on the database. It would be nice, for a price, if one could buy a read only copy of the P15-D24 database and do a SQL search with it to look things up. I paid a guy some years back for a copy of a MOPAR parts database and it has been great to run SQL to look up part numbers... James
    1 point
  8. I am glad to hear you fixed the issue with proper sized battery cables. As many of us have experienced, there is no need to switch to 12V or install an 8V battery to get the engine to start better.
    1 point
  9. No cutoff switch, thanks for the suggestion, should i get one? Update. It was hard to start and harder to restart after i kill it Now i fires right up even in 12*f weather! And even better i can start it right up again even if i kill it. Thank you for all the help! I put 2/0 cables on. Cleaned every connection real good. New nuts and washers. Moved the ground from the water outlet to the oil bath connection. The cables had the wrong colors but i think they are long enough so i just switched them. Full choke, one pump, hold it open a little. Then remove choke and set throttle pull to idle. Thank you for all your tips and suggestions!!
    1 point
  10. Me thinks getting rid of the mechanical pump right below the exhaust manifold will take care of vapor lock problems........
    1 point
  11. but for the cost of the plate and shipping, one can buy a grinder and make his own for the same cost and NOW you have the tool for other shop uses down the road.....kinda like why buy the fish, when you can get a fishing pole for the same money.
    1 point
  12. Talk to Newport wipers. They are doing the motor for my 54 right now. They don't actually build one but they looked at some pics and said hold my beer. Newport stuff has the advantage of being 2 speed as well. They offer the correct switch to take my wiper knob, it will probably be correct for yours too. For the record, I am incredibly fussy. My car will be a nothing newer than 63 style build. I had to swallow hard to use their stuff because it doesn't fit into the spirit of my build but it's the best option hands down. They aren't cheap, but if money was the overriding factor, Id be in a Kia. That's my 2 cents.
    1 point
  13. look at the 2nd attachment bill posted above. the kingpin set is listed about 1/2 way down the left side column (package - mopar). bob (dodgeb4ya) has a lot of reference books / parts books for vintage mopars.
    1 point
  14. I tried a 48" belt and it was way to close to the block. Just finished installing a 49" (4L490) belt and the generator is now sitting right at 2" from the block. Time to move on to the next task Thanks!
    1 point
  15. Credit card time...I already have Dewalt 20V batteries. Some weird reason there are two with the same name, one has less torque. Only the model #s are different.
    1 point
  16. It’s been years since I had the starter out of my D25, but could you carefully jam something in that hole to catch the ring gear and keep the flywheel from turning? Given the large radius of the flywheel, stress on the ring gear teeth would (should?) be moderate.
    1 point
  17. Could you borrow an impact wrench and hook it up to a portable air tank? Maybe that would be enough to get the bolt jarred loose. Maybe a mobile tire repair truck that could swing by and knock it loose for a few dollars.
    1 point
  18. AMS obsolete has it as does Deception Pass Motor Parts. The kit Brent shows on Ebay will most likely be the absolute best price.. Too bad you cannot snag that.
    1 point
  19. Here’s is some comparative shopping for you https://www.ebay.com/itm/194218216634?hash=item2d384eccba:g:VN0AAOSwUvxg2DzE
    1 point
  20. Original 'Triple Ripple' Hollywood Flipper caps by National. It took me years to find these. When they arrived they were in their original carton, wrapped in 1950 dated newspaper.
    1 point
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