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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/21/2021 in all areas

  1. Update time. Spent some time cleaning things up in prep for reassembly. Pulled the tie rod assemblies out so I could clean up the sleeves and install the new tie rod ends I bought. Turns out my plan for less expensive tie rod ends hit a snag. The threaded ends are fine, the location of the zerk fittings would have worked. However, the diameter of the tapered studs was too small and my window for returning them passed, two days ago, lol. Teach me to slack off. So I have new tie rod ends coming. Decided to pull the pitman arm off so I could crape off decades of grease and clean it up, only to decide that I may as well replace the pitman shaft seal. Would have been nice if I remembered that before I finished my tie rod order, oh well NAPA can get it for me for about the same cost Cut one coil off the Aerostar springs I installed earlier this year. Got them back in where they belong. Bought a Pneumatic cut off tool, but it appears either my compressor can't keep up or the tool is under powered, so I converted an old miter saw into a chop saw and got it done. Found that my oil pan screws were all loose, I suggest this might be a maintenance item added to the oil change check list. Heck this might even slow up the oil leak I have. Tomorrow, I hope, I start final assembly on the disc brake swap. I should have all the stuff I need on hand, except the tie rods. Might reinstall the old ones just dso I can move the car about.
    4 points
  2. Hey folks, as stated in the title I recently purchased a ‘53 Dodge B3B. I don’t really have a lot of experience in this but have been been some research and planning. Appears like the previous owner put a fair amount of work into it already. I’m sure I’ll have a bunch of questions and know there’s a lot of good info on this site. Thanks in advance for your patience.
    2 points
  3. The bar is aluminium and the wood is turned from a piece of pear. It utilizes the slide bar method. Against the fixed piece of wood I epoxied a small piece of body steel taken from my parts car. On the sliding piece I screwed in 3 wood screws. So it will withstand a lot of blows. It was matched up for the long block tube (25" ) I've never seen the tube for a short block so I don't know if the teeth will line up for those tubes or not.
    2 points
  4. I'm probably past due in providing an update on my truck. Unfortunately not a lot has been done in the intervening months since I last posted. The good news is I'm really close to the point where I can try and start the engine for the first time. The starter motor is ready to install once I put the ID plate on. The ID plate is currently being stamped by someone in CA and I should have it in my hands in a few weeks. I'm in the middle of the generator rebuild and would really like to have it close to being done over the Thanksgiving holiday. Once these two components are installed the engine is essentially complete and ready to run. Of course I still need to add fluids to the engine, cooling system and transmission as well as either finish the engine compartment wiring or install some temporary wiring. I've made the switch to 12 volts and bought a new 12 volt regulator and had it installed. A few weeks ago I was looking at one of the sub forums here and ran across a post by someone who had their regulator converted to solid state. I contacted the company doing the work which resulted in me sending the new regulator to them so they could convert it. Here's a few pictures of the new regulator. I guess time will tell if the conversion was worth it. Brad
    2 points
  5. Picked up this lot in an auction yesterday - $2.00 (plus tax). Two chain breakers, a small pulley puller, and the large puller, which was why I bid on this lot. Wondering if it looks familiar to anyone here, or what specific task would it have been designed for. There is no name on it that I could see, just the numbers P202, P203, & P204 on the different parts.
    2 points
  6. BTDT, penetrating oil and patience loosened one up, with some gentle working of it back and forth. The other I had to heat up with my propane torch, becareful not to start a fire. But I got both of them freed up, eventually
    1 point
  7. All I would know is penetrating oil and tapping it LIGHTLY back and forth with a hammer. If there was any slight gap between the pieces maybe tapping a paint scraper blade after oiling. Be careful, I'm the one that has 2 broke off manifold bolts.
    1 point
  8. Some one asked my father liked retirement. He said When I was a youngster, I lived at home and my parents told what to do and when to do it, and it was OK. When I joined the navy and lived ashore or on the ship, the navy told me what to do and when to do it. And it was OK. When I got out of the navy, I got a job, and the Forman told me what to do and when to do it, and that was OK. Then I got married and when I was at home, my wife told me what to do and when, and that for the most part was OK. Then I retired and there was no one to tell me what to do and when to do it. And you know what, when you figure it out, it's way better then OK. Good luck getting it figured out. Just think to yourself your week is now six Ssturdays and a Sunday. RELAX, BREATH, ENJOY.
    1 point
  9. Still a pilot house either way. Just a cheaper model when new.
    1 point
  10. I left the Land of Evil on December 31, 2012. Kept a variety of part time jobs until this year(Six Flaggs train operator and school bus driver) until this year when I was determined to be in too bad a condition to drive the bus. So now I am at home most of the time especially with winter beginning to show its face. Still better than the Land of Evil. And although I no longer have weekends to look forward to, I also no longer have Mondays to dread.
    1 point
  11. My last day in the office was 4/1/21 (official retirement 4/30). people ask me how retirement is, my response is what is there not to like about 6 Saturdays and a Sunday every week.
    1 point
  12. Nice… I recommend Quiet Ride Solutions for headliner and such. https://www.quietride.com/index.html
    1 point
  13. Only sure way to get the correct seal is to look at yours before ordering. There is also a possible oil leaking area at the back of a HY-DRIVE engine....the two engine to torque converter oil passage O-rings located between the rear face of the engine block and the HY-DRIVE adapter plate. Just some extra info?
    1 point
  14. For me that's a maybe. Along with the question of whether to solder a crimped connection. If the crimp connector is tinned, I'll usually tin the wire, crimp it, and then heat the joint up from the end of the wire (like you suggested) until the tinning on both pieces melts and melds together. Typically I use tinned crimp on ring terminals and handle them that way. For most "weather pack" and similar connectors, I don't tin, nor do I heat and solder the pieces. Oh, and if the connector (ring terminal or whatever) is tinned and it has some kind of plastic insulation on it, I always remove the insulation and I always use heat shrink in place of the (usually colored) insulation that came on the connector. That type of splice shouldn't be in a section that flexes or vibrates, it should be in a section that's supported at both ends, hopefully to fixed positions. If I'm replacing wiring at a connector using a "pigtail," I'm always try to harvest one from a pull it yourself yard, and run the wiring all the way back past the first tie down/support. If the termination is old, corroded or broken, I take some extra so I can crimp new termination on the end with the connector. If it's something old and/or rare, and I can't harvest one, I make what I can with new wiring and try to match wire colors as close as possible. I agree. And I guess maybe I should share the story of how I got on the aircraft spec/NASA spec wiring. Back in the mid to late 1980's, I used to race sports cars with the SCCA in the southeastern US. There was a group of us, typically 5 to 7 cars, with driver(s) and a few floating "crew" guys who traveled together and paddocked together. We'd help each other out, and for the "endurance" races, we might team up together to run a car or a few, not all of them, so we'd have "relief drivers" available. That was mandatory in the races longer than 3 hours, and just a good idea in the shorter 2 and 3 hour "endurance" races. These were mildly modified race cars based on production street cars. Some "Improved Touring," and some prepped beyond that to "production" or "GT" rules. Nearly every race weekend, there would be one guy chasing some kind of electrical gremlins in his car. It was a different guy, different car most weekends, but the problems afflicted almost all of us. Most of us would try and help out and find the source of the usually "intermittent" problem that either killed the thing or made it run poorly and cut out. There was one guy in our group who never had any electrical issues with his car (and rarely even tried to pitch in and help out). One day I asked him what the deal was with his car being so reliable and never having problems (hoping not to jinx him). He explained that his day job was aircraft maintenance (mechanical) for an airline (I actually knew that), and whenever he needed any electrical work done on his race car, he had one of the service/repair electricians from work come to his shop in his basement and help him or just do the electrical work on his race car. Well, I eventually met the electrician and had him come look at my race car and tell me what I needed to do to make it as reliable as the other guy's car. Basically, he told me I'd have to rewire the whole thing. Actually he told me he'd have to rewire the whole thing and do it "like they did things at work, on the big jets." Several cases of beer and several steak dinners later, we actually did completely rewire my entire race car, and he taught me how they did it on the big jets. He even gave me a copy of their manual when a new edition came out one year. After that, I almost never had any electrical gremlins in my race cars. Since then, I've been a believer in those standards. My old book from that airline is a bit shop worn and outdated now, and about 10 years ago or so, I discovered that NASA document online, which cover the same basic standards and practices with a few minor differences, and when anyone asks about this topic, I refer them to that.
    1 point
  15. Enjoy, sounds like you will have plenty to do with grandchild on the way. I will be retired 6 yrs on Dec 1, enjoying every minute of it.
    1 point
  16. it is the fact you can now spend a few days doing items you put off because of the demand from the man.....time for relaxing, having fun, being with family, enjoying a hobby or two and maybe even travel a bit before easing into that satin lined box.
    1 point
  17. My retirement started on 1/1/2021. People keep congratulating me on being retired. I'm not quite sure how to take that. Is it the fact that I outlived the bastards, or the fact that I'm not dead yet... Pete
    1 point
  18. You don't "burn" sludge out. Not knowing what type of oil was in it before should have started and stuck with non detergent oil. Don't know what the 15W-40 is. That's how I started my engine to knocking in the mid 90s. Listening to "Flush it with kerosene then change the oil a few times". Sounded like yours. As LazyK said best thing to do is pull the oil pan and clean it thoroughly. I wouldn't keep running it until then. The smoking is probably from worn/rusted rings. Even if rebuilt, if it sat a long time it could have affected the rings. Do the easiest thing..CHECK THE SPARK PLUGS. If it's a head gasket, it will show up on one spark plug. If it's the rings generally all of the plugs will show deposits.
    1 point
  19. Brake light switch socket...
    1 point
  20. Gonna need snow tires or is he putting it up for winter?
    1 point
  21. additional information - Texas-sized slip-joint pliers usage
    1 point
  22. TOOLBOX ARSENAL: Texas-sized slip joint pliers, quality made in USA back in the 70s additional information - optional slip-joint plier usage
    1 point
  23. Did you readjust the brake shoes after replacing the wheel cylinders? It sounds like there may be too much clearance. You can pump them out with a couple of pumps, but then when you let them fully return you need to pump them back out to get good contact again.
    1 point
  24. I'd tell you but you would only end up hurting yourself slapping your forehead.....don't want to be responsible for that....☺️
    1 point
  25. Wow, where to begin. Isn't following up after hack mechanics fun? Some people probably shake their head at me for being pedantic and anal about stuff, maybe I am but geez lol. This is what I did when I put fat tires in the back of my 51, might help you sort out what will work for you in regards to fitment. For the front's I have a pair of bolt on spacers that should allow me to run a wider tire on a stock Mopar 15x7 pass car rim, if I go with 15's and not 17's in the front. Go to finish the disc brake swap first, then see what I can see. Now I don't know where you are but I have the stock 15" rims I don't need anymore. Those might, ought to? sort out your front fitment issue. Heck I have the stock front brakes I don't need anymore either if you have to go back to drums. As for the rear end, the Jeep rear axle swap is popular here, I don;t have a link but you ought to be able to search and find. They can be had with discs as well.
    1 point
  26. I'm happy to say I got a bunch of piddley things done today. Installed the choke cable, throttle cable, temperature control cable, defroster cable and fresh air control cable. I had an issue with the throttle cable in that I couldn't pull it out by hand. I decided to try and push the gas pedal first and then tried pulling the cable and it pulled out nice and easy. I never thought about it before but it makes sense pushing the pedal would eliminate the effort of pulling on all of the linkage. Anyway, it works and I'm moving on to other tasks I also put the electrical connectors on the wires that connect to the voltage regulator. And last I installed a couple of 1/4" welch plugs in the rear carburetor to plug the opening where the choke plate shaft used to be. Only the front carb has a choke. The parking brake interferes with the rear choke so I had to eliminate it. The dash area is pretty much complete with the exception of installing all of the connectors at the ends of the wires and connecting them. I'm hoping to spend time tomorrow and later this coming week to see if I can finish up the dash. At least it's progress! Brad
    1 point
  27. If you are thinking of doing it yourself this thread may interest you.
    1 point
  28. Triple Carbs are very common on straight sixes, such as those found on Datsun L series motors. No problems with one throat per cylinder, although you have to make sure that each carb is balanced first, and that the opening of the throttles are synchronized. Otherwise you get poor off idle performance and a shaky motor in low rpms. For the 2.4 litre six cylinders, carb throat sizes in the range of 40-45mm were used depending on how how the motor was built. I built several engines running DCOE webers, and they work well, but were rather finicky. They didn’t play so nicely with modern fuels, and requires a systematic approach to tuning them as there are idle jets, main jets, emulsion tubes and air correctors that all have a theoretical impact somewhere in the power band. They would require a balance tube for things like the vacuum advance, but otherwise it wasn’t necessary for a smooth running engine. On the Dodge sixes with the shared intake ports, three single barrel side drafts like Moose has would work well. Maybe improvements could be made on the intake manifold to shorten the length of the runners, depending on available space. I don’t know if it has been mentioned yet, but six cylinders sound GREAT with individual carbs. Adds at least 20hp to the butt dyno. Anyway, I spent a lot of time tuning triple carbs and so I can ramble about them enough to bore most people...
    1 point
  29. Hopefully you aren't under a time crunch to re-power your car. Best to take your time if you can. Have fun. Enjoy the process and new learnings. Frustrated? Tired? Head back in to the living room and the fireplace. When you get the urge, go back out another day. I'm 1 year-in so far from when I pulled my engine. Lol. Yet I'm quite enjoying the process. No complaints only fun, when I want to.
    1 point
  30. And bring some tools Dodgeed! You never know what I’ll bring……and it usually needs working on ?
    1 point
  31. Sadly, my tool collection left my possesion a few years ago so its pretty small. though currently I am engaged in making Car specific tools. I wanted a Toolbox for road emergencies and tools I will ever only use on this car (I mean, what else am I going to use my feeler gauge for?) so I bought a vintage Union tool box and painted it to match. and my sister gave me a tea cart to restore so I started an "Artsy" paint job before discovering she didnt WANT it back, so I painted the legs to match the car and now I have a car specific tool cart.
    1 point
  32. I'd pull the oil pan and side covers check/clean any sludge
    1 point
  33. Found these pictures on the web. They are dated from 2014. Maybe somebody on the Forum? Look at the mounts- they look hand fabricated. I wonder if Fatman has mounts that would work?
    1 point
  34. After ruining one of the eBay Chinese pullers on a stubborn axle I borrowed this one from a friend. Since he is planning on never using it again he gifted it to me. This thing is so robust that it took less than 5 minutes to break the drum loose and best off all no bent or broken parts!
    1 point
  35. My son and I built this to pull the flathead out of the 51.
    1 point
  36. Grandpa gave me this one. Said old cars need old tools.
    1 point
  37. 1 point
  38. I had these old tools turn up at my shed last week. Anybody seen something like these before? The one on top looks like an old antique pipe wrench. The smaller syringe-like tool on the bottom has a leather plunger inside and is well coated in oil.
    1 point
  39. I use this tool to spread my leaf springs so that I can apply grease between the leaves . I use a needle fitting on my grease gun to get into the gap . I grease only my oldest springs as spring steel 5160 was introduced sometime in the 1950 ' s and that steel doesn't get along with petroleum products . This tool was probably made in the horse and buggy days .
    1 point
  40. How good is this pictured spanner - they reckon its got metric at one end and imperial at the other. I'm told that it was located on the shelf right next to the left-handed screw driver's...
    1 point
  41. That is amazing that the batteries did not leak and still show a charge. As others have experienced,I've had to repair damage caused by batteries that have leaked during storage. I stopped at a garage sale a few weeks ago and found a Blue Point CGA-8B Automotive Electrical Tester.Turns out the elderly gent having the sale had operated a service garage years back and had some old stock he was selling off.There was nothing I needed,but I spotted the tester and he said I could have it for $10.00.The meter movement was good,It had the manual and test leads still with it,so I bought it. When I got it home I cleaned it up a bit and upon opening it up found it still had the original battery in it,(still wired in place from the factory).The tag secured with the wire said,"Wired fo shipping only.Remove when replacing battery." The battery had leaked and caused a bit of a mess,but I was able to clean it up and after installing a new battery found the tester to be still functional...The shadowing on the photo of the manual is fom overspray -the fellow's son does auto body and paint .
    1 point
  42. TOOLBOX ARSENAL: I picked this up on eBay years ago
    1 point
  43. TOOLBOX ARSENAL: Some of the documentation makes for good reading
    1 point
  44. IMO the red engine shown in the video's sounds rattly and tired.... valve adjustment won't cure the noises. It doesn't sound as a good tight MoPar flathead should sound. What is the hot idle oil pressure? High rpm oil pressure?
    0 points
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