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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/31/2021 in all areas
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I think the speedi-sleeve install was a success. I removed the flanged lip on one end of the sleeve. I didn’t like how it would have set in the base of the pulley. There is lip machined in the pulley base. @Sniper ‘s part number seemed perfect. As recommended by a friend, I did heat the speedi-sleeve up to about 350C in my oven. Momma was raising her eyebrows but said nothing. I put the pulley in the freezer for about an hour. All went together pretty easily. I did struggle a little bit to get the flange off the speedi-sleeve. But I got it.3 points
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I have this problem even with my BMW X5 ,had all the lights tested but it turned out my eyes are old ,not the lights.3 points
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Yes please. I love to watch builds. I just got through fixing all the rust on my 50 Special Deluxe. Most of how I learned to fix it came from the build threads here. I am going to post a thread soon as it is coming back from the paint shop next week. Still lots to do.2 points
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You want to use diesel as a solvent and lubricant for the cellulose, those other cleaners might be too strong. As far as I know, the cellulose wicks the oil to trap any contaminants that do not go into the oil from inertia as the airflow makes the sharp turn towards the carburetor. In normal operation, the cellulose does not get as dirty as the oil bath where contaminants sink to the bottom. additional information - oil bath air cleaners2 points
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Sent one from Oregon…. also grabbed one from the great state of Washington when we had a lay over to Michigan and sent it. If it doesn’t count let me know and I’ll drive back up there and make Kevin mail one ?2 points
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Solve it like a standard problem..first have an eye exam and eliminate that, especially if you're over 50. If no cataracts then think about a solution for the car. If you are rarely out at night, wouldn't spend a lot of money changing the car. If you need to go out more often at night with it, go with the simplest solution first.1 point
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Being out of alignment is most likely the biggest problem. I'll fix that and try again. But only around the block1 point
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There is a good video of the restoration of a 41 Plymouth showing how to restore the vent wings. it starts at about 3:50 into the video.1 point
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Better watch the factory service film on sealing against water leaks. Mr Tech says.....1 point
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My understanding regarding the original weatherstripping/front rear window rubber gaskets is that they should have some sort of non hardening sealer squirted between the outer edge of the gasket and the window opening edge but in no way should it be an adhesive like what late model cars use to hold the windscreens in as part of the cars structure..............the original body opening stampings were not that accurate and a small amount of sealant or what I know as windscreen "mastick" should be used........when I had the front screens replaced on my 40 Dodge about 6-7 yrs ago I had a discussion with the glass guy who didn't want to put any sealant in......in the end I just said o/k and did it myself later when i got home........no leaks yet.........I'd put something in if it was me............andyd1 point
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that piece is L shape fuzzie...you will not find one that fits proper.....they will need some tweaking to fit, seal and look correct.1 point
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Winter is almost here. Have had several frosty mornings already and the leaves are all on the ground. Took a short trip today after working on the car for a couple of months. Tried the golf course first but no-one around, so curling club was next. Ice is in but nothing going on so settled for the hockey rink and a minor hockey game and hot chocolate. Yes winter is almost here!1 point
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I love them,too. I even used to remember how to do most of this stuff myself,and as I have posted before,loved working on them more than I loved driving them. Now things have came full-circle,and thanks to chemo brain,I CRS,and the build threads sometimes ring distant bells,which makes me feel good.1 point
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A problem I have seen time and time again. 12v bulbs in a 6v system. They fit, They Light up. But they dont put out nearly as much light. Not sure if this is the problem, but it gives you a easy place to look.1 point
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The solenoid only passed voltage thru it when the key is in the start mode. I would suggest a voltage drop test. https://www.fluke.com/en-us/learn/blog/automotive/electrical-automotive-troubleshooting Don't forget to do a drop test across the solenoid when in start.1 point
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When I was a kid, my Dad bought the family's first Mopar. A '49 Plymouth that had a bad engine. He had one of the local rebuilders install a short block. Great runnning little car except it had a rear seal leak in the transmission. He worked for Douglas Aircraft and was getting loads of OT hours. That was the reason for having the engine installed rather than DIYing it. So, he decided to put chassis grease in the trans, 'temporarily' until he could get the seal replaced. Never got around to it. Stayed there until it got traded for a 54 Coronet 'baby hemi' in 56 or so. I wasn't old enough to drive the 49, but he did mention that is was difficult to shift on really cold mornings!1 point
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They sell 6v halogen front seal beam head light bulbs that give a better light at night and draws less juice1 point
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On the fronts could one not drill out the rivets and swap the drums? I would have to look and see if the rivet holes are in a different pattern...the bolt pattern would be an issue but one MAY be able to weld the old holes up and drill new ones for the smaller pattern... A backing plate can be welded and modified easy enough to fit if it clears the uprights... I would just change the front to discs and if one needed the 12 inch on the rear just swap and entire big 8 rearend. James1 point
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not in these trucks, they didn't. late b-3 series large trucks, and all b-4 series large trucks did away with the stepped bore, yet retained the pinned brakes.1 point
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I had put new front glass 20 yrs ago, just the new rubber gaskets without additional sealant. 2 yrs later I had to take them out and found the window frame wet all over the gasket´s seat. Luckily, no rust yet thanks to the intact varnish. The car hadn´t got any rain in these 2 Years but had been washed 1 time. I don´t trust the rubber´s waterproof sealing abilities since then. Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go1 point
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Come to think of it, I also live in a monsoon area. Southern California is known for its heavy rainfall. I think we had about 8" of rain last year! I like seeing your photos of your restorationl. Good work! Marc.1 point
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"No colors anymore, I want them to turn black"....I like your taste. With your ride work and your music?1 point
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Hi OUTFXD, yesterday I removed a rear window from an original 47 coupe to salvage the glass from an auto wreckers. Severe winter weather in northern Alberta, hot summer sunshine and really warm temperatures over the many years (20+) the car has sat derelict in salvage really impaired the gasket. There were obvious signs of cracking around the outside of the gasket and no sign of any sort of sealant anywhere around the opening. There was still no signs of water damage inside the window frame of the car so like Sniper my best guess is gasket. Dave1 point
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I live in Washington state. We dont Actually have monsoons, though technically we are a rain forest. I isnt uncommon for it to rain a week straight here during the winter. The locals like to say "The monoons have set in".1 point
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Veemoney; I pretty much used it straight. I just drained the 90wt out and pumped the grease in. I am sorry but I don't remember the brand but it was from England. I bought some years ago to use in old Brit Bike Burman transmissions that only had leather seals to keep the lubricant in. I do remember that it had very high ratings for use in older transmissions and that is why I tried it in the old Dodge. Like I have said it has worked very well in my truck. The transmission had a lot of slop in it and was quite noisy. I assumed at the time that the bearings/sleeves in it were pretty much shot. This stuff quieted it right down. I just figured at the time it was a "Band Aid" type fix and that I would deal with the worn transmission a little ways down the road. I have put more than 30,000 miles on it since so it has easily exceeded my expectations. Hth, Jeff1 point
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I have 2 of those on the shelf....back when I was hot to put them on FEF....needless to say I spent over $200 on them....slightly different version tho, mine do not have the bag, they suggest a BALL jar as a reservoir!1 point
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NOSpart: 1523138 Jiffy Jet Washer Windshield Washer I spotted this at the Big Spring Auction, it eventually sold for over $200...when I tried to examine the contents of the box, I was sternly told to not take the contents out of the boxes...OOPS1 point
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So it has been about a year since Clementine went back on the road and last week I hit my first 1000 miles. I had replaced the speedometer ( had the grey face style from later models in there and I wanted the original black ). Since i disassembled to clean and check, I went ahead and set it to all zeros. Has been a pretty good 1000 miles (other than the mouse nest in the radiator debacle), several loads of wood hauled, many country roads like this one. So glad to be driving my old friend after about 20 years in storage. The Old Brass Knob I have kept almost everything the same, or as close to it as I could on the old truck but the one thing that is different is the shift knob. This knob is a solid brass knob from an apartment complex i worked at in the 70's that was built around the same time as my truck was built. I like it for a number of reasons, like how you can feel the gears turning and that satisfying click when you drop in after a perfectly timed double clutch. But what I really like is how it polishes up from regular use. When it was a daily driver that knob always just shined. When I reinstalled the transmission, I thought about polishing it up to start with but ended up just deciding to let it polish under use. I want to get to the point of keeping it shiny and in that way know that I am spending enough time in the truck. I put 150 miles on since I took this picture, hauling loads of oak for myself and friends, and it already is well on the way. Sherman Terrace built around 1950, photo from 1978, the 54 Chevrolet is mine also.1 point
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These Mutty Dodge panels are kinda an odd looking ride but crowd pleasers too.... My brother has had his 50 Dodge panel since 1968. Had a peace symbol on each side. Hippie days back then. I used it as a kid doing gardening and hauling brush to the dump during a couple summers.1 point