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Did some fishing down by the lake and snapped a quick picture on the way home. Rain was coming in and caught the moon before it disappeared into the clouds.

12v or 6v will make little difference, if at all, the power ( volt x amp) needed to replenish and supply to the electrical system will be about the same. Hence the drag on the engine will about the same. Electric fan with temp on off switch v constant engine driven fan is different story.

I got to drive two today. I was moving things around to get ready for the white stuff. Brought my 41 home from my shop 11 miles away, and took the 58 over there.

How can you not like this guy? the road starts with one step. little by little it gets done. sweet

Well for a guy whose first line in the thread is about not being too smart it appears that you like most who say that are in fact quite smart and well organized. I look forward to following your thread as although my Plymouth is probably about as done as it is going to get I always look for the chance to learn something new or a different way to accomplish a task. Your car looks solid and what you have done so far excellent.

after top coating the bit n bobs, Wait till your significant other goes to town for a couple hours. sneak into the kitchen. Place the bits and bobs on a cookie sheet and bake them in an oven for 30 minutes at about 300 degrees. When you pull them out of the over the paint will still be wet. Put them someplace cool to cure overnight.

It occured to me maybe 20 years ago that I fool around with old cars to give me an excuse to buy tools. I usually lose interest in the cars after a few months,and put them up for sale. I have never put any tools up for sale.

Well I can't believe I figured it out. I was talking to an older gentleman today who knows a lot about these cars and he suggested I checked the vacuum advance. It sure seemed like it was running lean but I couldn't find a vacuum leak. Apparently my vacuum advance diaphragm has blown and it won't hold vacuum. I put a pipe plug in the carburetor and now it runs great until about 2,800 RPMs then it starts to miss a little. I'll take that as a victory for now. So now where do I find a diaphragm?

Electric fans only run when you need them. That mechanical fan runs all the time. Don't think it's unreasonable to claim the electric fan at 12v is a vast improvement in the reduction of parasitic drag. Here's some numbers http://www.carnut.com/ramblin/dyno.html

I've messed with a few of modules like these at my house..stepping up 12V to 19V to run a laptop off of a car battery. Amazon has 6V to 12V converters for various amps. Wonder how something like these would do for each device? Chrysler1941 - it's not 100% obvious from the title but he is talking about fans also. Amazon.com : step up circuit 6v 12v

The OP SPECIFICALLY asked about running an electric fan. A voltage change will fix that and will cost effectively eliminate the largest source of easily addressable parasitic drag. Furthermore, there are any number of 12v electric water pump drives out there as well if someone were to get that far into things.

Visiting family in Michigan two weeks ago, I spotted this one near a family member’s house

my hat goes off to you ?

Looks good. Great start.

thank you

I think I would try just replacing the flasher before I tore into the switch. If you are still running 6 volts make sure your flasher is for 6 volts.

Nice ride! I'm super partial to late 40s coupes, you did well!

The support bar in front of the radiator is riveted in place so has to be prepped and painted where it is.

Not sure about a 54, but on my 51 they are not adjustable from under the dash. They are adjustable by pulling the arms off the pivots outside the car and reinstalling them on the splined shafts.

I usually clamp onto the "L" with a vise grip and tap it off with a hammer. Try using the side of the hammer for more swinging room. Sometimes it comes right off. Other times, once I get enough space between the closed end and the line, I insert a flat screwdriver and twist to work it off. The side we're seeing is pretty clean, may help to clean the other side, there may be just enough crud there to keep the line from backing out enough for the clip to, well, unclip.

additional information - shock absorber replacement

Last checkup today for my eye - all okay and I can start working on my car again and mowing grass. Had a vitrectomy about 2 weeks ago (8 October) where they replaced the gel in my left eye. Had really banged my head hard a few years ago, had A LOT of floaters, not just the stringy ones, one was like looking through clear egg yolk. Now have crystal clear vision, no floaters.

I had both of mine done in 2016. Went from the proverbial coke bottle lenses to 20/20. Now just use reading glasses. Most successful surgery so far.

Spoke to Randall at Tennessee Clutch, the purpose of the sheet metal is to help protect the clutch face if there is an oil leak. Also looked at the parts book, and the drawing does in fact show it, I am guessing aftermarket parts may not have had it.

Fwiw I use Semi fluid grease in my trucks transmission. Keeps leaks to a minimum and really quieted the old transmission down. It was noisy with 90wt. in it. I have been running it this way for more than 30,000 miles now....so it works. But then it is going to be 85 F here tomorrow.........

No, but before we went east. I used a come along and squared the body, that brought that break back together as it should be. We really enjoy the beauty of Maine.

Yesterday took my 1952 Belvedere for a drive...last one for the year..

My old truck with mirrors...?