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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/19/2021 in all areas
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10 points
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Tod Fitch's answer above is the most likely to solve your problem. The distributor drive gear is on the oil pump. When the pump is installed correctly ( the procedure is in the shop manual) the distributor rotor can be placed at about the 7 o'clock position for #1. When that is done, there will be no interference with the vacuum advance and other protrusions. The major and minor adjustments will be within range as well. It is possible to time the engine with the drive gear in the wrong position ( by moving wire positions or rotating the distributor body) but problems such as the one you have experienced will likely occur.2 points
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1 point
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There is only a couple weekends left for me up here in Canada. Insurance runs out soon. Today was a good day here. I found nice quiet spot for a photo. If you got out recently, let’s see some pics. Fall foliage with your Mopar would be a real treat! None to be seen during my trip to the clay sand banks here.1 point
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Mom made me sell it because my dad found a 64 1/2 mustang which I still have. Mom said no 18 yr old kid is going to have 2 cars around here. Make your choice. Well damn. I’m 18. It’s 1973. I enjoyed the dodge 2-3 yrs and sold it to a workmate at the lumberyard who drove a ‘47 dodge 1/2 ton. I loved that truck as well. It got to be too much...missed trucks so bad I found the ‘36 I have now in 1974 and tortured my mom by fixing it in the garage until I moved from Sacramento up to Chico. Mom had to eat crow1 point
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We haven't had the old girl out for a week or so. Last time we were out a photographer for the local paper captured this pic as he was doing some photography for a local story and it appeared on the front page of the local weekly paper. The pics of the paper are posted in the Off Topic Forum. The paper graciously provided a digital copy of the photo when my sister inquired. The church in the background is affectionately known as "The Old Mud Church" and is located in Philipsburg, PA. I grew up about two blocks from it and now it is about a 30 minute drive away.1 point
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My last response was for my front shocks . As for the rear I used Air shocks but I did have to switch out the rubber eye bushings on either the top or bottom ( I can’t remember) but it wasn’t hard . Monroe MA7271 point
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1 point
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I used the Monroe gas shocks on the front of my 47 DeSoto and they work fine1 point
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Thanks for finding that for me Sniper. I looked and looked before my earlier response. That is exactly, even the Copper Coat, what I did on my 230 that hasn't been started yet. I knew I read that somewhere!1 point
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I own the exact same dwell/rpm tool. To clarify, the 3rd connection, hook it to the wire from the coil that travels to the points. Clip it on to the little screw at the coil. Other 2 connections to the battery as Dodgeb4ya said. Be sure and hook up the unit (all 3 connections) before turning on the key, or firing up the engine. Otherwise Tach won’t work on your 6V system.1 point
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The 1954 roll up 5 inch thick Master Parts Book shows the same shock part number for all Desoto Six Cylinders from 1938 to 1950. Of course it does lie sometimes. The 1948 listing for Suburban Sedan may have been for heavy duty as the car is heavy. Of course heavy duty in those days was nothing compared to what it is now shock wise. Take the extended and collapsed measurements from your existing shocks and check them against my measurements. If they are the same or close I would use the ones listed. James1 point
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No pics but I’m daily driving my Coronet. This is my favorite time of the year for driving. Of course any drive in a vintage Mopar is good.1 point
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Stick a feather in its cap. Get ready for the next one! Pull the plugs before you get many around town miles 9n it and see how they are burning.1 point
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Last weekend we did a day trip with the MN plymouth club. Went down the WI side of the river and then came back home on the MN side. I did drive my P15 today after reinstalling my driveshaft with new boots. Tomorrow I can check if my 2nd try at sealing the overdrive worked!1 point
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How far do you have to rotate it? The tang on the bottom of the distributor drive is symmetrical and can go in 180° off. So if that is about the amount you have to rotate it, then remove the screw holding the distributor down and rotate the shaft 180° and re-install.1 point
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I've gotta quit checking the FB ads so closely. Saw this in a neighboring town and after checking it out and a bit of negotiating, went back the next day and bought it. It's a '54 Chrysler New Yorker Deluxe 4 dr sedan with the upgraded 235 hp 331 cu in hemi and Torqueflite. The PO ran it for me (for a few seconds, since there was no gas tank), but it turns over and runs! It looks like the original Carter WCFB 4 bbl is in place, but not sure if it's in working condition. The car was last registered in '94, the interior is stripped except for the dash, steering wheel gauges, etc which look to be in really good shape. My plans are to use its best bits (and the upgraded engine) for my '54 Town and Country wagon, and after the transplant, sell it as a nice project car since it is virtually rust-free. I am apparently the third owner, and it was always registered in California, so that's a plus. I'm gonna play with the engine (check fluids, replace the belts, hoses, plugs etc.) and hook it up to my vintage engine tester and see what I get. I thanked the PO, who was a young guy, for not molesting it and he said he wanted to keep it stock. Maybe there's hope for the future?1 point
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I have no proof of product nor experience with Pertronix. I can say that I have absolutely no interest in pulling points to install any type of breaker less system in my old Mopars. My points are still reliable and work very well. I understand points and the condenser. The ignition system. I can troubleshoot and fix it roadside if needed. The ignition system in both my old Mopars is currently 83 years old and counting. For me? No way. No how. No Breakerless ignition.1 point