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I've gotta quit checking the FB ads so closely. Saw this in a neighboring town and after checking it out and a bit of negotiating, went back the next day and bought it. It's a '54 Chrysler New Yorker Deluxe 4 dr sedan with the upgraded 235 hp 331 cu in hemi and Torqueflite. The PO ran it for me (for a few seconds, since there was no gas tank), but it turns over and runs! It looks like the original Carter WCFB 4 bbl is in place, but not sure if it's in working condition. The car was last registered in '94, the interior is stripped except for the dash, steering wheel gauges, etc which look to be in really good shape. My plans are to use its best bits (and the upgraded engine) for my '54 Town and Country wagon, and after the transplant, sell it as a nice project car since it is virtually rust-free. I am apparently the third owner, and it was always registered in California, so that's a plus. I'm gonna play with the engine (check fluids, replace the belts, hoses, plugs etc.) and hook it up to my vintage engine tester and see what I get. I thanked the PO, who was a young guy, for not molesting it and he said he wanted to keep it stock. Maybe there's hope for the future?

I put a wireless camera on my 1998 truck. Works fine until it cools off. It does not like anything colder than about 36F. No workee after that. It would be great if I lived in California or Florida. In Canada? Not so much. I swear last summer I walked by mine with a ice crème cone in my hand. It wouldn’t work.

That's cool. I use a " mon back". My wife stands behind, waves her hand and says " mon back, mon back, stop!

sometime in the future....mankind reveals link to the past at urban dig site.....referred to as the Jughead era in mans evolution

There is only a couple weekends left for me up here in Canada. Insurance runs out soon. Today was a good day here. I found nice quiet spot for a photo. If you got out recently, let’s see some pics. Fall foliage with your Mopar would be a real treat! None to be seen during my trip to the clay sand banks here.

This may have been missed when I mentioned it earlier, but full suspension travel and shock absorber stroke do not need to match exactly...raising the axle with a jack to enable shock installation is allowed in my neck of the woods

We have been having fabulous fall weather in southern Alberta! Recent pics within the last week or two. I’m getting an old car out every day while I can. I know what’s eventually coming.

It can be done as I have done it that way. Very awkward and I found it virtually impossible to put back that way. In fact I think I removed the floor panel to finish the job. I would recommend removing the panel and doing any needed repair work at the same time.

No trouble for the cars. We even pulled the hill out of Middleburg toward Cobleskill in overdrive, passed a couple of cars also going up that hill. The bridge is just off rt 30. The info said it was built to ease transport of hemlock bark to a prominent citizen's tannery. So some form of wood harvesting has been going on down there since before the mid 1800`s. Lots of interesting stuff around if you slow down and look for it. One of the fellows suggested Thursdays in October, we use the P15 Picnic change them to Toursdays and go galivanting about all of middle Sept through Octoursber. Look for us in the Adirondacks next fall. Maybe do Whiteface mtn...

Thanks for the link. Ordered today.

My wife grew up in the Fingerlakes area, not too far west of there. You are right, very pretty country. I, on the other hand, am not from there, no where near it.

Have had 3 or four instances since 2008 on Plymouth trips where someone one needed a head gasket. So I carry one for me and a gently used one for friends andneighbors, and my old Kmart torque wrench. Also have a couple boiler plugs in case of soft plug issues. Just did a 300 miler last Thursday. Fine time to find my headlights and rear running lamps inoperative. Hey looks like the borders may be opening soon for general travel. Put the 16 through 19 of September on your calendar for the 2022 edition of the P15 Picnic USA IN New Hampshire.

Sharpening blades on the John Deere in preparation for leaf mulching, property has over 40 trees. Is on my list for tomorrow along with doing an oil change and new spark plug for the wheelhouse plow set up, and working on the fuel line, and throttle governor for the old Tecumseh snow blower. Bought a new snow blower end of last season, used it once. Should only need gas to be up for the season. Ughhh!

I know when it’s fall, my shut-in work in the garage commences. This week it’s been engine reassembly work. Today the snow removal power products are getting serviced. No, not Mopar but indeed they too need my care and attention like any Mopar I’ve owned.

Swap your battery cables so the heater will blow warm instead of cool. Thursday we did a seven car group tour from Syracuse down to Blenheim ny to take in the longest single span covered bridge in the state. About 325 mile round trip. Mourning Temps around 42, called for the heater to be on. So with the fan on medium and the cowl vent just opened a bit, we were comfortably warmed and ventilated through to our first stop.

I have the Miller Tool for setting the pinion without the need to press on and press off the bearing to get the shims correct. Makes it possible to do it at home and not pay my rear-end shop for it... One has to take their time and follow the steps. I rebuild the 3-speed and BW-OD and have run it for 50K plus miles without issue, again taking ones time and following all the steps. James

Ok, I found my notes : Somewhat definitive shock information (46-48) Hi All, I replaced my shocks on the 1947 Desoto Suburban (LWB). This car had a build date of Late December 1946. I was surprised when I took the shocks off to realize that the are the original shocks. The front MOPAR part number checks with my part book, the rear does not. However, they have the same undercoating on them that matched the rest of the car. It has a single coat of original factory or dealer applied water base coating. I am convinced that these are the factory shocks. So for your record keeping pleasure: ****************************************** Front Shocks: Collapsed Length: 8.75 Inches Expanded Length: 13.0 Inches Part Numbering from top to bottom as on shock: 12B6 1F8-F0 Made In Monroe Patent No.2.004.380 & No. 2.078.364 PcPd 1121207 Rear Shocks: Collapsed Length: 12.5 Inches Expanded Length: 20.0 Inches Part Numbering from top to bottom as on shock: 12B6 1F8-F1 Made In Monroe Patent No.2.004.380 & No. 2.078.364 PcPd 1121208 I used these for years, then changed later on to below: New Fronts NAPA = 5752ST (Box had LE 10002) New Rears NAPA 94008 ************* Posted December 3, 2016 This week I have been moving parts around. I found the box that had the shocks I took off the 1947 Desoto Suburban when I first purchased it and the 1949 Desoto Convertible when I took it apart. I cleaned them all well and below is what I found. The shocks are MOPAR with the CDPD stamp on them and factory part numbers. They are Monroe shocks. 1947 Desoto S-11 Suburban: Front 1121207, closed 8.75", open 12.875," Dia max 2.125" Rear 1121208, closed 12.5", open 20.5", Dia max 2.125" 1949 Desoto S-13 Convertible Front 1311851, closed 8.75", open 13", Dia Max 2.125" Rear 1311852, closed 12.5", open 20.5", Dia Max 2.125 Interestingly the Monroe cross reference on the 1947 Desoto shows a front part number of 5752. On Amazon or Jeg's they are about $22 each. At NAPA or O'Reilly they show up as from Rare Parts at $200! What a joke... I may have a custom set made for the big Desoto. The shock valves were different according to the master parts book for the heavy Suburban. Custom adjustable shocks may be better for this daily driver than another set of modern Monroe's. The 1947 Shocks are know to be original to the car. The 1949 I suspect may have been changed once. 2021 update. I am currently using the following on the 1947 Desoto: Front Shock 1947 Desoto: NAPA NS5752 (UPC:48598041609) {monroe} Oreilly 5752 (UPC:48598041609) (monroe} Rear Shock 1947 Desoto: Napa RR94008 {monroe} Oreilly 3100 (UPC:48598024008) {Monroe} Oreilly KG5473 (UPC:781552054733) {KYB} Best all, James

Short answer is no. You wrote that your u-joints are tight. Ensure they operate smoothly. If so, you may want to reconsider messing with them at all just yet. You certainly don't need to replace them. I don't believe these u-joints were originally intended to be serviced, just replaced if the car lasted long enough. Our cars also weren't intended to be on the road more than 10 years or so either. That being said, grease breaks down. You've already had/got the car apart, if you do decide to disassemble the u-joints, then the caps and needle bearings should be thoroughly cleaned, which can be accomplished without taking the needle bearings out, but you have to be careful, and don't use compressed air or you'll be hunting for those bearings all over your garage. When you re-grease something like that, you should always thoroughly clean out all the old grease to ensure longest life from the new grease. If you don't think you cleaned them enough, you can remove the needle bearings easily enough to clean them, just be careful about it. They aren't that hard to re-install, just a bit tedious.

To me points are better. You just have to maintain the gap and keep the contacts clean, which isn't that often. We're not pulling such high RPMs that they float. About the only thing electronic is the condenser. It's what I'm trying to get away from in my experience with 92 Dakota and other vehicles. Perfectly good motors but some sensor causes the problem.

I think 41-50+ Plymouths have alligator one-piece hoods. Dodge was the last MoPar mark to have a split hood opening sideways until the new 49 models.

You do not need to remove the hinges. There are 6 1/4 inch bolts (7/16 heads) 3 on each side fastening the hood to the hinges. There may be an additional bolt in the center of the hood, holding it to the cross brace. Mark the position of the hood relative to the hinge so you can put it back exactly as it came off. If you undo the hinges from the body, my guess is that you will find it very challenging to ever make it fit again.

Almost everything I own is customized or at least lowered. I take compressed and expanded measurements of the suspension and hit my local napa. They have books with various lengths and mounting options.

10-16: Hauling grass/weeds, etc. to the compost with the B1C. Perfect autumn day! Truck ran great. Also, the B1C served as my transport to Verizon to get my phone looked at ?

The instant garage is working ok. I’d run out of garage space when I bought the Plymouth a few months back, so it was a practical and reasonably cheap solution. It cost around £350 and took about 2hr to erect; there were 50mph winds it’s first weekend and it survived ok. The climate here is mild but wet with a lot of seagulls so it protects the car but allows it to dry off if put away wet. It’s limitations are mainly you can’t heat it much and it’s not lockable - for insurance it counts as ‘vehicle parked in driveway’ not ‘vehicle garaged’

I think I'm just going to buy mine from Bernbaum's as he lists the complete set for my 48 DeSoto for $185.

I checked my old u-joints and they are tight as a drum. No play at all. Maybe I'll clean and re-grease the caps and install. Dodgeb4ya, you sold me some impossible to find C-clamps required for my 48 DeSoto. Then a month later I found my original C-clamps, bolts and all! But thanks for selling them to me.

my other lift is a different style runway and one runway is enclosed from below to hide/protect cables and ram....but after a few minutes of study I have resolved the installation issues here and have purchased another set of lights for install on this lift...the mod will be fairly simple, clean, effective and cost friendly.

A 1947 plymouth factory fuel gauge is the 2 wire to sender + 1 wire from ignition switch for power like the same era Chrysler desoto & dodge.

Testing the light switch; running lights today.

Not hard. Just make sure you have a rosebud tip (I THINK that's what they are called) to SLOWLY preheat the cast iron to a red glow before you start the brazing,and make sure you have both parts clamped rigidly so they don't move. Run your torch aceletene rich.

Success! Worked on the dizzy and got the points to stay in place.starts right up now. Running better with points. Thanks for all the advice.

That's for heating the dual carb intake manifold with dual exhaust headers..? Just kidding.

For foot pedal starters I read that you are supposed to stomp on them, like you would if there was a loose $50 bill on the ground on a windy day.

I prefer to have two of everything. Good to have a back up ya know.

When you do the vacuum gauge setting, it is accounting for variables when you do the test. Air temp. Fuel quality, humidity, engine condition. Use the fuel you no r mally use.

I have no proof of product nor experience with Pertronix. I can say that I have absolutely no interest in pulling points to install any type of breaker less system in my old Mopars. My points are still reliable and work very well. I understand points and the condenser. The ignition system. I can troubleshoot and fix it roadside if needed. The ignition system in both my old Mopars is currently 83 years old and counting. For me? No way. No how. No Breakerless ignition.

Pertronix isn’t what it used to be. I bought a unit for my Coronet and it failed almost immediately. They refunded my money and recommended I keep a spare module in the car. That was enough for me to stick with points.

You need to go out and do some brisk acceleration and pull a couple grades. Typically there might be some pinging under load. Leave the dist snugged but not tight so you can make road side adjustments. Usually need to retard it a couple degrees from high vacuum setting to find the no ping setting. Then tighten it down. When back in the shop, adjust idle rpm to 450 to 500.

Hey, everyone...so, as the title suggests, I have a theoretical question for the folks on here who are infinitely more knowledgeable about these cars/engines than I am. Let's say you had a 1951 Plymouth Concord, and you were interested in running the car in a racing class in which you HAD TO run the stock engine (or engine family) available with the car from the showroom floor. Now, that would be the 218, because I think that was the only engine available in the two years of Concord production, although according to the rules, I believe you could also run a 230, because the block (unless I'm mistaken) is the same (it's in the same "engine family," which would exclude the 251 and 265, both because they're two inches longer and because they weren't available with the Concord, unless Canadian Concords came with the bigger blocks), and you're allowed to modify stroke and bore within certain parameters--i.e., you can open the cylinder bores to 0.150 over, and you can stroke it as much as you want, as long as the crank and camshaft remain in the stock location in the block. (I'm also pretty sure that you can use an aftermarket cam and aftermarket rods and pistons of non-stock sizes.) Furthermore, you basically can't do anything to the head, although the block deck can be milled up to 0.150 (but I don't think you can mill the head). Other than all this, you can use ANY transmission, ANY non-quick-change rear-end, and ANY exhaust system (i.e., headers), and you have to have a full cage and a racing seat. But the rest of the car has to be pretty much bone stock--you can take out the stock seats, headliner, carpet, minor chrome items and emblem, and you can run an aftermarket fuel tank (but the stock fuel tank has to remain in place), but that's about it. You can't run a turbo or a blower, and you can't use EFI, but you can use any ignition system (although it can't be interactive, i.e. make decisions based on sensor input), and you can only use a computer for data collection. ARE WE HAVING FUN YET??? So, if you were tasked with making this car go as fast as possible under the above conditions, with no streetability required, and with money (reasonably) no object, what would you do? This test will not be graded, and any and all input (even smart-ass input!) is greatly appreciated...thanks! Gary

I´m not sure if I understand You perfectly. If it is the deactivation speed of the OD, I can switch its´s OD- relais off by an extra toggle switch (see pic 2). I´ won´t miss this, I even use the hand switch instead of the original kick-down layout, which seemed to brutal to me. As I didn´t know how OD works, I had 3 LED controls to see what it is doing. The rpm meter is for the same reason. After I had understood the system, I liked the provisorial panel and let it as it was.

Link to image page. scroll to image page 113 48D