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when I have a car on the lift and one stored below or working on any other project beneath the lift...the car on the lift blocks the overhead lighting....so I installed these LED lights to solve my poor visibility. These do good considering the overhead lamps are off.

I've gotta quit checking the FB ads so closely. Saw this in a neighboring town and after checking it out and a bit of negotiating, went back the next day and bought it. It's a '54 Chrysler New Yorker Deluxe 4 dr sedan with the upgraded 235 hp 331 cu in hemi and Torqueflite. The PO ran it for me (for a few seconds, since there was no gas tank), but it turns over and runs! It looks like the original Carter WCFB 4 bbl is in place, but not sure if it's in working condition. The car was last registered in '94, the interior is stripped except for the dash, steering wheel gauges, etc which look to be in really good shape. My plans are to use its best bits (and the upgraded engine) for my '54 Town and Country wagon, and after the transplant, sell it as a nice project car since it is virtually rust-free. I am apparently the third owner, and it was always registered in California, so that's a plus. I'm gonna play with the engine (check fluids, replace the belts, hoses, plugs etc.) and hook it up to my vintage engine tester and see what I get. I thanked the PO, who was a young guy, for not molesting it and he said he wanted to keep it stock. Maybe there's hope for the future?

Ticks can also be fuel pump and fan belt, especially the modern cogged ones. Greg G has a good list. I might add an item I have in all my cars. A disposable hazmat suit. When I drive these classics, I'm always wearing my best. In case you need to lie under car. Cost around $10.

I would add something else to Greg's list. A spare water pump because if it goes you are dead in the water. Of course, make sure you have five good tires.

Already been posted. I supplied the Imperial club for example with the three filmstrips on the 46-48 M-5 semi auto transmission, but they already had the records, so they created the soundtrack. https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1948-volume-a-the-hydraulically-operated-transmission/

They got it for nothing, therefore see no value in it. i heard them mention halfass customs, a manitoba hot rodder. They want a hot rod with no clue where to start. Even brent (halfass) would shudder at the thought of trashing this buggy to build a rod. myself, make it run and drive without doing anything that can’t be undone. In other words,build a survivor.

We just did about 500 miles on the P15 Picnic Tour, as did 9 or so other old Mopar flatheads. The only issue amongst the group was a failure to charge situation that was rectified by a close by shop. I have a travel kit in the trunk that consists of AAA card Tow strap Fire extinguisher An extra distributor Upper and lower radiator hose Spare fan belt Set of generator brushes Two fuel filters with clamps A three foot length of non metallic fuel hose head gasket Ground cloth, gloves, handy wipes, roll of paper shop towels Roll of duct tape, and electrical tape The 30 Amp headlight switch fuse Several 6 ft lengths of various gauge insulated wire Small toolbox with assorted hand tools Get out there and drive that thing.

We went away for 5 days for a anniversary / birthday getaway. Put on 850 miles. The only issue was a broken speedometer cable. Take it out enjoy.

Pertronix isn’t what it used to be. I bought a unit for my Coronet and it failed almost immediately. They refunded my money and recommended I keep a spare module in the car. That was enough for me to stick with points.

Had a 1955 DeSoto Firedome some years ago. Only a 291 cui but it ran great. One day I stumbled over a 1939 LaSalle, and had to let it go

Never seen that. They were either on the carb or on the head- so either way the throttle linkage pushed the kickdown.

Gents, I am getting about 1.5 which seems correct because my system is a 6 Volt, 6 Cylinder 1948 Chrysler Royal. Thank you for the help! If I didn't still have my Simpson Owners Manual, I would not have known which way to set the knobs to check this out. I might finally learn something about Lectricity LOL. Tom

Thanks 41, your pictures are worth a thousand words! The clutch return spring on my car is very tight, not loose at all. Your English is perfecto as far as I'm concerned! I've seen your car and I think it's a 3 window coupe. It is stunning! Marc.

You need to go out and do some brisk acceleration and pull a couple grades. Typically there might be some pinging under load. Leave the dist snugged but not tight so you can make road side adjustments. Usually need to retard it a couple degrees from high vacuum setting to find the no ping setting. Then tighten it down. When back in the shop, adjust idle rpm to 450 to 500.

The New AACA main office was dedicated the same week as the great Hershey swap meet. The new headquarter is adjacent to the Orange field. I was able to get into the building and took some pictures. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

yes that's it. Thank you. I think that's Bernbaum's store. The Parts Manual has the specs "1/4" I.D. X 15/16" O.D., 9/16" thick.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1941-1954-Plymouth-Dodge-DeSoto-Chrysler-Gearshift-Control-Rod-Bushing-/183219309684?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

You talking about the grommet pictured above 19-46-37? It's been a few years but I was able to purchase one I believe off eBay

I did some screen shots to condense all the talking into some pictures of important details.

Adjust the distributer to the highest vacuum? Tighten it down then good to go?

I have a vague recollection of a former coworker of mine using something called, I want to say, liquid glass, after doing a sleeve replacement on his farm tractor. Claimed it was factory recommended and worked. Other than that, I know nothing.

When I bought my 51 Dodge Crusader, I thought it was a long-block 218 cu in so I should had the by-pass housing, I did worry for awhile, but I saw the label on the side of the block ,, ''Industrial engine 251 cu,in.'' and of course because of the great help on this forum, I find out my set-up what ok,, never overheat in 3 years. But next year, I will do the 3 engine/trans mounts replacement, timing cover gasket & seal, and of course the full cooling system maintenance as per the shop manual..

My neighbor who used to have a home based car repair business put a type of “glass” he called it stop leak in a customers Cadillac( the customer wanted that used) and it was a complicated process that took a couple of fill and drains. After it was done the leak was gone and the last I heard a few years ago had not returned. No idea about what it was Magic I suppose.

Young Ed, The 4-th Graders have one coming from Route 66 and Kingman AZ! Walt

I changed the the mounting of the clutch return spring as you said. I'm not sure if I have the correct spring as the Parts Manual doesn't give the dimensions. I mounted the bell crank with the arms slanting away from the bell housing. I changed the orientation of the spring hook to I hope the correct way. Look at these pics and let me know if it's right. Thanks.

If you haven’t already done so I’d replace all the lines both metal and rubber. Making your own hard lines with nickel copper line is easy and inexpensive. That and a good adjustment will keep you safe.

Oh I see now we are talking about clutch return spring and not over spring. 61spit is correct It should be flat pointing towards engine. See arrow, bracket goes here BTW love your original DPDC bolts

https://fifthaveinternetgarage.blogspot.com/2015/10/borg-warner-r-10-r-11-tech-tips.html

Wow Vin that’s awesome! I really dig all the little touches. Especially the rolled fender lips. It sounds fantastic! I’m sure mine will eventually morph into more than just the rust rod it is now. I need continued inspiration from all the fine folks on here!

Radiator woes..everything from sawdust to black pepper. Pass the biscuits please

I have used plenty of synthetic enamel with other products with no ill effects. What do you think a lot of these cars were painted with back in the day. look at today, water based BC, and 2 k urethane clears to go over. i have mixed "tractor type' synthetic/alkyd enamel with all kinds of things "they say" without problems... BTW ever try using rusty metal primer on stripped panels, is an excellent 1st primer, and have used 2 k urethane surfacers right over, it works very well

I also use dot 5 in my Pilothouse, and have had no issues. Dot 5 fluid, if used in a squeaky-new system - all wheel cylinders, lines and master cylinder - will last a lifetime and likely never need further replacement of hydraulic cojponents. It is used by high-end car makers and seldom ever causes any problems whatsoever EXCEPT whenit is inadvertently mixed with the glycol type 3 or 4 fluids. If you use dot 5, I suggest you have a sign made to place on the firewall - DOT 5 ONLY. jmho