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When I think about my upcoming engine overhaul I start looking into all the "improvements" I could be making. Someone needs to post a Batman slapping Robin. I'm going to leave it with by-pass oil filtering, keep it 6V, no cross drilling cranks, no cooling passage mods..just a Power Wagon PVC kit, 180-195 thermostat and regular air filter. Crap, I'm not going to be driving 100 miles on the interstate at 75 mph. Probably just putting around here at local car meetings. I can change oil more often. My father drove it for years with no problems except it stalling when it got hot in parades. I have the original heat shield and can route the fuel line further away. maybe insulate it and check the carb float level. Keep getting antsy and researching too much. I'm not racing it or driving long distances.

The best way to keep a reliable car from back then is the same way you do it on a new one of today. Keep up with maintenance, fix things when they break(rarely do cars ever fix themselves), and drive in a sensible manner. Accelerate gently, stop by planning ahead, and in general try to drive as the car/truck was designed to do. As Doug&Deb said there is no reason you can’t enjoy the car. Just be smart about it.

I have three of Tom Langdon's ('83 Ford Escort 1.6) Carter-Webber 32/32 DFT carbs on an A-O-K intake, on my '90 274" DeVal. The fuel flow demand for my engine is very close to three Escorts! I've never had to re-jet them, and I've run the car in 25 thru 105 degree weather, and at altitudes from 500' up to my current 3400' elevation. These were a "no brainer" for me, for the following reasons; 1) Configuration was perfect for a siamese port Chrysler 25" flathead engine. 2) Desirable 2-bbl set-up for low and high-speed drivability. 3) Fuel flow was within the 'right range'. 4) Brand new NOS units. 5) They were priced RIGHT - $95 a piece! Unfortunately, they are no longer available, although Tom does have spare part for them.

Always remember that these cars were once daily drivers. If you want to drive 100 miles on the interstate it’s fine. I just did a 320 some mile trip over Labor Day weekend. The original engineering will be just fine.

Took the time today, being a warm day and not wanting to be completely reliant on the weather forecast to paint the long block. Amazing how easy it is to paint something that the whole thing is one color! Think I could have added the geni brackets and breather tubes, but I'll do them and any other ods'n'ends separately. Long block 'un-masked'.

I've had/have single carter ball and ball and duasl that run great. Fire up just touching the key. Idle perfect, good response. Maybe you have other issues. I like Strombergs too, 97s,81's. Those weber carbs are probably good but look like 70's pinto junk. Shoot, a pair of 1904 Holley glass bowl single barrels would probably be nice. Good luck on whichever way you go.

Bought this 35K mile all factory original '52 Saratoga coupe yesterday after discovering it 30 miles from my home. Looking forward to enjoying it. 1952-Chrysler-Saratoga-american-classics--Car-101576548-d233756120c0221f32ab253a07b0b5fe.webp

Would just like to say hello, been asked to look after a friends P19 for his wife to drive safely to various shows, after he passed away. Already have a few jobs to tackle and thought this would be a good forum to join for advice and parts location. I live in the UK and parts are a little spare over here. Thanks for having me

I have the Power Pack 2bbl setup (from a stock '56 Suburban) and from what I can tell, with the WW Stromberg, it is rated at 132hp.

I was just reflecting on the title of this thread a bit...that song in the title was mentioned in passing in Golden Earrings song Radar Love....."and the radio played that forgotten song'

if no one else notices or says thanks...your posting pages and tech info from the period correct book for the early Chrysler is greatly appreciated....and all this from Denmark folks....good to have you on the forum.

Not to take this thread on too much of a tangent, but do you mind elaborating on what happened to your valve guides to cause so much oil burning?

Don't take on too much initially. Don't disassemble the car more than necessary unless you have done this type of work before. If the engine is the main project get that done now completely and no more. Do that then have fun driving your new ride then decide on doing new projects on the car. As for valve guides yes the machine shop needs to properly replace them.

I love my 6v positive ground alternator and Carter electric fuel pump. Two modifications easily reversed. Pay special attention to the valve guides on your rebuild, I listened to the machine shop and now am using 1 qt/500 miles.

Are you sure you don’t have a bad spring, or binding track? Can you temporarily disconnect the door opener to check the movement of the door? You should be able to lift it with little effort if everything is working properly.

Old Guy.....thats a nice clean 4dr Sedan, for years 4drs never got the kudos they deserved, as an owner of a 4dr for 50 yrs this past month I felt like I was fighting a loosing battle till I found this Forum..................its nice to see fellow Mopar Cars and Owners especially 4drs........... so my regards from Oz........Andy Douglas

Thanks for the information. I do though have a very good commercial type USA manufactured rental hoist. I have used it on many many jobs over the years. Sixes...straight eights and Hemi's and others including............ A Yugo.? A straight "8" being pulled from a 50 T&C. No dog house or hood removal necessary.

BTW,once you pull the front clip,the length of the legs and boom on the engine hoists can be shortened. You won't have to lift so high to pull the engine. Best of all,once you do pull the engine,you can lay a couple of 2x6's across the boom legs and just let the engine down on them and then push it out of your way. You will,of course,need an engine stand once you start working on the engine,but you can buy that later.

Front clip / dog house is the front fenders, inner fenders, hood, all the body parts in front of the firewall/windshield

Another thing is I've never done this before. Figured with all the parts off if I drop the motor will be less damage.

I agree. Not necessary. I ended up pulling the front clip to clean-up the frame, etc. ..Snowball. Makes it easier going in.

I would have advised to pull the front clip, but it looks like you're headed that way. Much easier to pull the engine that way. I also dropped the tranny and removed the seat and front floor panel to access clutch and trans linkage.

Remember this abomination? I I finally got around to pulling the starter today. It was locked up with a rusty armature. It took about 90 minutes to make it nice and shiny. And conductive. I hooked up my big battery charger to it and it spun like new. Got it back in the engine and it turns over now. Next step will be getting some spark out of the Magnatron coil to the spark plugs.

Hey Mark, Simple solution I did to mine was to take a dremmel tool and enlarge the hole to a 3/8ths square and use a breaker bar to get the plug out. Heat the plug area before removal to make it easier. Joe Lee

Sounds like a vacuum leak to me. Lots of people running B&B's without being lean. So something is amiss and if it is a vacuum leak a new carb won't fix that.

Hi A photo as requested

Nice find on the engine. The 1936 Chrysler C7 is the more conventional Airstream model rather than the Chrysler Airflow. The specs as listed by Loren are correct for that engine.?

Have you ever tried to immediately open the bleed screw after stopping? If you have,and the pedal goes back down to the normal position,you need a new master cylinder. Sounds to me like you may have a burr or some trash on the piston in your master cylinder,and that is causing it to stick.

Welcome Aboard from Oztralia........got any pics of the car?......we all like pics................andyd

Even if you can't use it, you should grab it. These are not so common.

I don't know you,your deceased friend,or his wife,but I want to thank you for being a genuine friend. Folks like you are hard to find these days.

kill two birds one stone....weld a stem onto in...square drive or hex.....then wrench it out as the heat from the welding will also pretty much kill any rust bond between the threads.....else....drill away...be sure to pull your hog head to clean the shaving from the banjo if go with the drill....

Beep beep,, beep beep,, his horn went beep beep beep..

Get out of Denver...?