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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/04/2021 in all areas

  1. can't stress this enough....be sure to wear your welding goggles.......
    2 points
  2. I'd walk past 600 finished cars....every tri-5, twang and camzeros stepping lightly among rattlers and copperheads to look at the Rambler....they just that few and different....
    2 points
  3. Oilite bushings are essentially a lubricant impregnated sintered bronze material. I can't imagine they'd need or want the lube part of it, I suspect it is just sintered bronze only made by Oilite for Chrysler. Remember Oilite is also the name of the company.
    1 point
  4. Matt brings up a good point. One other thing to remember is installing the hardware. Mopar used special washers and nuts in specific locations to ensure the manifold could move with out cracking as it heated up. Here's a good thread on that
    1 point
  5. Glad to hear that you had success in getting it resurfaced. It sounds like you now plan to separate the intake from the exhaust and replace the gasket, check the heat riser valve and likely replace the four bolts holding the two manifolds together. How do you plan to get those two freshly machined surfaces back in plane with each other when you reconnect the two manifolds? I suppose you'll install them somewhat loosely onto the block, with the four middle bolts (the ones that connect the two manifolds to each other) also being a little loose, and then carefully snug all bolts in small increments? Another option might be to reconnect the two manifolds to each other (those four center bolts), making sure the two manifold surfaces are flat and double-checking on a granite countertop or a machinist's straight edge (or both) before attaching them to the block. The first method may be best, since the manifolds will be mated to the block, with whatever inconsistencies it may have. I just wanted to bring this up, so that you don't just bolt the two manifolds back together and try to install them right to the block, thinking the two machined surfaces are still in plane with each other ("coplanar" is the word I was looking for). You could crack them if you tighten them up against the block when they're no longer coplanar. You've probably thought of this, but I just wanted to be sure.
    1 point
  6. Serial is 25064741. carb is the single barrel Carter. The one in the spares box and the one in the car are both stamped D6G1
    1 point
  7. According to my W-series shop manual, your truck would have a single speed rear axle. A WFA would have a two speed manually operated rear axle. The WF had a 228 or 236 engine, the next bigger tonnage truck would have a 241 or 250, possibly with sodium exhaust valves. The frame and cab forward that I bought was a 47 grain truck with a 250 w/sodium valves and a 5 speed and PTO. I can post pictures of the vacuum units that were on the firewall, they are different than yours. There is also a separate valve for the speedometer. Take the starter switch off an clean the contacts, my starter worked after cleaning. The button on the switch screws in or out so the starter gear is engaged before it spins. If you don’t have a W series shop manual, get one. Measure the length of the head and get the serial number off the engine.
    1 point
  8. That kinda looks like the vacuum check valve for the brake booster to me
    1 point
  9. There might be a valve to turn the hot water off so it doesn't flow through the heater. My 49 and 53 both have them. My 53 has "summer" with an arrow pointing in the direction to shut the water off on the heater box.
    1 point
  10. That's the video I watched, the fuel pump is not identical to mine as the way the diagram hooks to the lever for pumping is different in the video vs on my 48 dodge but hope it's helpful in some way.
    1 point
  11. How was it running before? If it was running good then all of a sudden started to run like crap, I'd look into possibly some debris in the carb. Easy enough to pop the top off and pull the jets and needles. Also, while the fuel line is off, crank it over to see if the pump is pumping. Make sure to put the end of the line in a container to capture the fuel. If that all checks out, move onto checking the ignition parts. Just a process of checking and eliminating stuff, you'll get it going. Good luck.
    1 point
  12. Firstly.........Welcome aboard from Oztralia......these guys know their stuff..........as for vendors, I've always had good dealings from Andy Bernbaums, www.oldmoparts.com (?), for rubber weatherstripping and the like theres Steele Rubber, although I must admit I haven't had pleasant dealings with them myself but they do have a good range......anyway have you any pics of the car.....we all like pics..............regards, Andy Douglas
    1 point
  13. Greetings all, So it has been a hectic couple of months and the car project was put on hold during that time. So I'm happy to announce that my engine will be torn down this coming week and assessed for the necessary parts for rebuilding. Also I'm hoping to replace the entire electrical system this weekend too. Then after that the entire fuel system will be replaced( new tank, lines replaced, fuel pump rebuilt,etc...) Finally the cooling system will get an overhaul, which includes a complete water pump kit and necessary components. The radiator was sent out to be completely rebuilt, as I didn't want purchase a new one that might not fit. I will post new pictures when I can for all to see soon. Thank you all for following me on this wonderful and emotional journey with this car.
    1 point
  14. Someone snuck a green 'Dear John' tractor into the Red Tractor parking area. ? As they say... "Nothing runs like a Deere." But also remember that 'Nothing stinks like a john.' ?
    1 point
  15. I still like that grille...every time you post a pic it is a reminder I need to get my car out of the barn and work on it a bit...
    1 point
  16. Nice. Speaking of RR tracks, my parents had a '62 Falcon when we were little that we kept well into its declining years. It was me and by brother's job to keep an eye out the rear window when we went over RR tracks to see if any parts fell off.
    1 point
  17. love the picture with the three 48,s in front. the entire front design is incredible, but the three bumper guards create a look that i think is beyond words. fins on a 59 caddie, three bumper guards on the 48 chrysler? doesn't get any better. just my opinion. capt den
    1 point
  18. Sept. 1: Still testing and driving the American. Out for about a 30 mile round trip tonight. Some in town stop and go, then a highway run. Up a pretty long steep hill, and down another steep one. Had plenty of power to easily go the speed limit up that hill at about 1/3 pedal. The temp guage didn't move, which impressed and surprised me. Flew over a couple different sets of railroad tracks; one at 30mph and one at 50mph, it did surprisingly well. My son and I stopped for a sunset photoshoot. Gosh it was a really nice cruise tonight ?
    1 point
  19. There are plenty of little internal passages that corrode and may hold sediment. Plugs should removed. Orifices cleaned. Springs and balls proper size confirmed and in their place. Throttle and choke plate linkages at the butterfly valves should be inspected for wear. Worn shafts or bushings allow air entry points that are uncontrollable. Carbs are designed to control the amount of fuel they allow into the engine. As best they can within their design capabilities At various loads and RPMs. When there are leaks, you lose control. Then Air fuel mixture is now off. Rough running soon follows. Or no running at all at certain rpms. Carbs can be finicky. Keep at it. Keep studying. https://mrolinykautoservice.weebly.com/uploads/4/0/1/8/40184925/carburetor_work_booklet_week_12.pdf
    1 point
  20. 1 point
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