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Antique car clocks are expensive especially if NOS. Try finding one for a 1939 Desoto next to impossible, but after 35 years of searching at Hershey i found one in the glove box door and also complete with the glass, decal, clock and wiring harnes, but used. Cost me $150 then went down the same isle and found another clock by itself and the guy had $25 onthe clock you know I purchased that one also. Just a lucky find. Have never found another one since and this around 1995 and I have been going to Hershey for 35 years. If you want the item and its the only game in town than you have to pay the band leader to play your favorite song so you can dance with your partner or go and sit down at your table and just listen to the music. Rich Hartung

looks like something out of WHO FRAMED ROGER RABBIT.......

Alan.......couple of things........mopars from the mid 30's thru to at least the late 50's even maybe later used Borg Warner Overdrive gearboxes when an O/D was ordered ex factory...problem is these are NOT cheap now plus used various electrical solenoids etc to work and accelerator connections..........BUT the reason I wanted to use a Borg Warner T5 from the Chev S10 pickup is that , yes they need an adaptor to bolt on BUT they are completely self contained, require NO external electrical connection and have a forward mounted gear xtick that suits mopars using a stock bench seat, there are both GM and Ford versions as well as a range of gear ratios, they have been the 5 speed/overdrive gearbox of choice for maybe 15-20 years behind various Ford, mopar and GM older engines..BUT, yep are NOT a stock choice, but they do work well......... .................the Carby I mentioned is the 2 Barrel WW Stromberg or even the 2 Barrel Carter BBD whicxh also has the same bolt pattern as far as I know.........I did NOT refer to any VW carby......lol........... .................Tom Langdon from Stovebolt Engineering is the USA has developed a twin carb setup using Weber 2 barrel carbys but these are NOT ex VW, and are what Hkestes41 installed on that very nice red mopar engine......... .......................I'm in Australia and was going to use a pair of Oz only single barrel Bendix/Stromberg carbies that were a common thing on Oz GM six cylinder cars in the 50's to 70's........... ...................also if the gearbox is swapped for a non mopar gearbox, ie a T5 or similar then you LOOSE your handbrake as its attached to the end of the stock mopar gearbox or mopar overdrive gearbox which means that to have a handbrake/parking brake or emergency brake with a T5 or similar gearbox you have to swap the complete REAR AXLE, drum to drum with something with the parking brake inside........... ................also brakes............you have a 37 Dodge, which has a pair of semi elyptic from springs and a tube axle.......I know that disc brake kits are availble in the USA for mopar independant front ends from 1939 but am NOT sure if one is available for the "beaam" axle style that your car has..........it shouldn't be that hard to adapt but as with anything like this........one change can lead to needing another............at the very least installing a remote booster in the stock brake system should be something to do.......... ...............heres a pic of my 1940 Dodge, had it for 50 years in 3 weeks.....been a hotrod since 1973, 318 poly,4 wheel discs etc, etc...........regards andyd.

a 218 will send you down the road with no issues with the proper gearing or an R10. If you live in a mountain region, that could be an issue. If youre a flatlander,no worriesa 230 is and upgrade, yes. Brakes, suspension are essential. Roll up your sleeves

Annual Show & Shine weekend. This is the car club we're in, based in Houlton, ME. Shoulda been the 22nd annual, but we didn't put it on last year. On topic simply cuz our D24 will be there, and it's also on this year's event T-shirt. There will be other MoPars, too. To be held at the Southern Aroostook Agricultural Museum in Littleton, cant miss it, right off US1. Ice cream cruise starts at the museum on the 28th at 2:00pm to Houlton Farms Dairy ice cream stand in Houlton. Show registration starts at 8:00am the 29th at the Museum. No entry fee, 21 classes, members cars don't get judged. Silent Auction, games, etc. Awards at 1:00pm. Usually about 200 cars show up, but about half of those tend to be from Canada, from which the U.S. still has travel restrictions, so how many show up this year is anyone's guess. I know we're pretty far from just about all of you, but there it is, just in case you're in the area, or get REALLY bored this weekend. Photos next week.

Whatever you do DON'T use the lollipop welting....drives me nutty....no way is that correct. For my build I used body caulk between the metal, but with the square fenders you do have the gap to fill.

Had to share this, totally bizarre. Probably not the weirdest out there but in the top 100 I would think. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3907472469316436

my thoughts and someone will correct me if I'm wrong. 1. remove the previous owners wiring connecting all three rear lights 2. connect turn signal switch #5 to your rear center brake light. (center brake light mandated by the federal goverment in 1985, again chrysler was ahead of the times) 3. run wires #1 and #3 from your turn signal switch to the appropriate rear lamp sockets what happens is in normal mode, power from your center brake light goes thru the turn signal switch and powers the right and left lamps when you move the turn signal switch to turn left you are disconnecting the left light from the brake light and the left light now get power from the flasher circuit right turn the same, right lamp removed from the brake light, and power now from the flasher circuit

you have only to understand that the brake light circuit is also the turn signal and the function of the switch is to route the brake light for the direction you are are turning through the flasher switch also connect the brake to the opposite side direct....just follow the wiring instruction.....as ole Balis always told me, point your nose...your butt will follow.

you use the break light wire. you will run three new wires wires (1,3,5) from the turn signal switch to the rear of the car. seems your laminated sheet shows the wiring for the "factory optional turn signals" and that is where the confusion could be

Had a similar situation on my 48 Dodge. If the bulbs sockets you will have to run the 4 new wires from the turn signal to the respective bulbs. For the front go thru the firewall you can usually find room. wiring on my dodge goes to the rear by traveling up the driver side A column and under the roof liner and along the roof line and down into the trunk . It was impossible to snake additional wires along this path. For the rear wire along the main frame member and up into the trunk at the rear. takes some time. unless the car has existing turn signal wires you have some work to do but its doable.

Personally, I think $300 is a good price nowadays for a NOS clock...that works. The older this stuff gets, the less we'll find. Only so many were made. If you don't get it now, it'll become $400, then $500, etc. There may be less expensive ones out there, but there is no telling when and if you'll find one. I'd say whether you get it or not depends on how bad you want one in your car. As far as power drain, our D24 has its original dash clock, which works well, and uses no power because I keep it unplugged, and give it some PMCS every once in a while - at the same time I do all the dash stuff. (Preventive Maintenance Checks & Services, you Army guys may remember that one.) If we go to a show or something where I think having a working clock is beneficial, I'll just hook it up and set it.

I found some NOS dipsticks awhile back and was able to verify that a felt type gasket was originally used to seal off the dipstick tube

B-4 rear fender filler, not the same as B-1, B-2, or B-3: additional information - Ethylene Vinyl Acetate Foam

At one time these cars were new and people drove them every day. I still drive them every day, just saying.

Alan: Where do you live. I assume somewhere in Pa. i live near valley forge pa and have driven to Hershey. I go to Hershey every year and have a vendor site. Ornage field row AD site number 7&8. If you come to this years Hershey please stop by the site and say hello. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Yes you can change crank and rods to make your 218 a 230. One other thing you have to change is the flywheel as the rear flange on the 230 crank is thicker than that of the 218. If you don't change flywheels your starter will not engage properly. The other option is to have your 218 flywheel machined to compensate for the extra flange thickness or machine the starter mounting face on your bellhousing. Likely the easiest thing to do would be to just find a 230 and swap it in place of your 218. Should be a direct bolt in swap and nobody would ever know the difference unless they checked the number stamped on the front drivers side of the block just below the head. Heck if you check the number you may find that the engine currently in your car is not the original anyway. Many of the flatheads were swapped out over the years as the old original got tired. I went from a 218 in my 48 Plymouth coupe 95HP stock to a 57 model 230 which was 135HP stock and there was a very distinct seat of the pants increase in power and drivability. As Andy said above an Overdrive or rear gear swap will also help greatly to cruise at highway speeds. I installed a 53 Borg Warner R10 Overdrive in the 48 and it would cruise at 75mph all day long. However, it was a column shift so with your floor shift 37 you might want to look into the T5 swap from an S-10 pickup. The old flatheads can be very reliable engines when built correctly and treated right. They also draw some attention at shows when parked among the sea of small block chevys. Here is the 230 I built for my 48 which I sold a few years back. I now have a 37 Plymouth coupe with a 360/727.

Hood on. One latch still needs adjustment. Had to "nudge" the radiator support forward 1/8 "

The entire engine was painted with an aluminum looking silver. The golden color you refer to in the pictures is the cosmoline that was sprayed on everything. Still sticky after all these years. The OEM paint job on this engine is pretty crude when you look close at it. Not much prep. I'm certain it wouldn't last long once operated in the real world. Now it being a crate engine, perhaps it wasn't as fussy a paint job as those installed at the factory, but I doubt it? I have a feeling that a lot of us detail our engines way better than what came when our trucks were new? I hear ya on the wasting away! Lols! The sad thing is, I don't even need it. My current engine runs like a dream. I was looking for a good core engine to have just in case I needed it when this opportunity came up I could not pass on.

They're different. Google pictures of them and look at the door notch on the cabovers and how long the cowl goes down the side of the truck. Same goes for the B series.

I am not to sure about rear shackles for a '36, I do know that the '37 and later used a 'C' shaped shackle. When I converted the rear springs on my 39 P8 conv cpe from stock to Posie the straight type of shackles would not work. We made a set of 'C' shackles that would work with modern bushings in the frame and spring while allowing enough spring travel to clear the rear cross member. Wm