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This weekend went to the 5th Rømø Motor Festival here in Denmark. Cool weekender with period correct cars, bikes, music and the famous beach race. Only MoPar participant was a 32 Plymouth. It had no problem beating many Ford V8s. There are strict rules for participating in this race. Cars must be Pre-war cars, coupe, roadsters or specials. Appearance, main parts and performance parts must not be newer than 1947. Clothing needs to be period correct. Not getting into the race itself, shot some photos of MoPars at beach. Participants were from all over Europe except England due to ................... More info and lots of video on YT. https://www.romomotorfestival.dk

Parts arrived, last line is in. Happy with how it turned out. Do I need to worry about this joint on the front coming into the engine compartment? Thanks. Eric

Hello folks! New to the forum and have been using the search function quite a bit to answer some of my questions. Now I get to finally start my own thread! Just brought home a '53 Cambridge business sedan. All original (save for the rehopolstered interior) and still 6v, which is awesome. Step 1. Get it running. Turns but won't start, not getting spark....not really worried about getting it running....it can only be so many things...lol.. Step. 2 get it stopping. Again...not real concerned it's just brake lines and parts IF it doesn't stop already. Step 3. Make it even cooler than it already is. I mean...this thing is rad... I'll attach of bunch of pics of her for her 2 hour voyage home....when we got her to the garage, the skies opened up on us, so I didn't get any pics of her in her new digs.... Planning on doing a build/adventures/mis adventures thread here... Thanks for looking and feed me any tips, or knowledge you've got! All is appreciated!

Annual Show & Shine weekend. This is the car club we're in, based in Houlton, ME. Shoulda been the 22nd annual, but we didn't put it on last year. On topic simply cuz our D24 will be there, and it's also on this year's event T-shirt. There will be other MoPars, too. To be held at the Southern Aroostook Agricultural Museum in Littleton, cant miss it, right off US1. Ice cream cruise starts at the museum on the 28th at 2:00pm to Houlton Farms Dairy ice cream stand in Houlton. Show registration starts at 8:00am the 29th at the Museum. No entry fee, 21 classes, members cars don't get judged. Silent Auction, games, etc. Awards at 1:00pm. Usually about 200 cars show up, but about half of those tend to be from Canada, from which the U.S. still has travel restrictions, so how many show up this year is anyone's guess. I know we're pretty far from just about all of you, but there it is, just in case you're in the area, or get REALLY bored this weekend. Photos next week.

Had to share this, totally bizarre. Probably not the weirdest out there but in the top 100 I would think. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3907472469316436

Yep, I scrolled right through the text of your post while browsing the pics and didn't realize the pics wheren't of the same trans. Ignore me. So, if the trans only has two shift rails it must be one of the rare 3 spds with a PTO port. I'll dig around and see what I can find in the old interchange manuals.

is that airport tanker still for sale?? I swear that thing has been available for awhile now

Alan: Ok so you want to increase the power of the engine. What type of driving are you basically looking to do with the car? Are you looking to cruise down the road at 55 MPH or looking to be in the 65 and above range?. So if you are cruising at the higher speeds its all not just engine power. There are other important things that would also need to be considered such as: Brakes you have a single line drum braking system with shoes, what about the rear end basically probably stock. Trans and driveshaft, front steering old bias ply tires just to name a few basic money items. Are you planing to drive alot at night might think about that major issue and how to have enough amperage to run sealed beams so you do not outdrie your headlights. So before you begin your tear down thibng about the total project that you want to accomplish, figure in a cost for parts, cost to install the parts and all modifications to the car to support what you want to do and the cost of the basic car that you are starting with. I have a 39 desoto that has the bigger 25 inch block. I can cruise comfortably all day long between 50-55 MPH. It still has the original braking system and I am comfortable with the slower speeds and I get to relax and enjoy my drviing. So baiscally think about the above things and then decide what you persoanally want and can afford to accomplish. I might be cheaper to just go out a purcahse an already completed Hotrod and then just drive the heckout of the car and you can use it right now over the complete down time and cost before you can enjoy the car. Just my 25 cents worth of input. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com

Looking good! Yeah, sometimes a "nudge" is needed to line things up. For consideration; this may seem a PIA, but it'll save on the need for cussing later. If you have already tightened up all the body nuts, bolts, etc. on that front end, you may want to consider going back and loosening everything up a tad. Still tight enough to hold, but loose enough to move things around. Then make your alignments, adjustments, etc. Once you're satisfied, then go in and tighten everything back up.

well, I was in Holland with some rain... For next year I have a planning note for end Feb. : Will check the next Romö Festival early! Not so difficult to persuade my wife, as her preferred island of Sylt is just a few ferry miles south (pic from 2017)! Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go

Welcome aboard from Oztralia..........as far as I know the only physical difference between a 217.8 engine and a 230 cube one is the stroke that went from 4 & 3/8" to 4 & 5/8" in the 230, the bore was the same in both size engines at 3 & 1/4"..........the 1938 engine had 6.5 compression with 87hp........in 1942 it went to 6.7 compression, 230 cubes and 105hp..........but if it was me I'd increase the compression(assuming that it hasn't been done previously) by milling a few thou off the head......as for the exhaust.......you can get a pairr of cast iron "Fenton" headers either original....$$$$$ or repops and then run a full dual system thru say a 2" exhaust & performance mufflers ...or do what I was going to use on the 230 I was building and get an extra exhaust manifold and modify it so that I effectively had a pair of cast iron headers, see pic........if you don't want to install twin carb setup then maybe just an adaptor to allow something like a WW Stromberg 2 barrel carby going into the stock intake..............the final use of the 230 in Plymouths in the late 1950's had 8.0 compression, a 2 barrel carby and 140 hp...........one more thing tho' even if you get another 20-30 hp out of the engine the final drive gearing may still mean that the engine is revving fairly high to keep up with or ahead of traffic......an overdrive or rear axle ratio change maybe required.............anyway hears a pic of the engine I was building for the 41 Plymouth Coupe I had.......ended up selling car & engine before installing it with a Chev S10 T5 Overdrive gearbox.........I'd suggest you go thru this forum and checkout the various threads on here and you'll get the hang of it ............Andy Douglas

The entire engine was painted with an aluminum looking silver. The golden color you refer to in the pictures is the cosmoline that was sprayed on everything. Still sticky after all these years. The OEM paint job on this engine is pretty crude when you look close at it. Not much prep. I'm certain it wouldn't last long once operated in the real world. Now it being a crate engine, perhaps it wasn't as fussy a paint job as those installed at the factory, but I doubt it? I have a feeling that a lot of us detail our engines way better than what came when our trucks were new? I hear ya on the wasting away! Lols! The sad thing is, I don't even need it. My current engine runs like a dream. I was looking for a good core engine to have just in case I needed it when this opportunity came up I could not pass on.

Funny I have always heard it as DUCK DUCK GOOSE..... got your hands full with this trio.....the big tooth smile of the Desoto is in high demand and that alone would get you outlay back into your wallet. Hernando will be a good desk ornament/paper weight if you do go part out.

Just a random picture of my car. I’m on here a lot and I’ve never put my car on here.

I just put a 230 in my truck that had a 218 and from Dons post was aware there might be a problem. After measuring the distance from the mounting surface of the starter to the forward edge of the ring gear on the 218 and the 230, the 230 flywheel is about 0.180” further away from the starter mount surface, so that much was removed from the bell housing and everything is fine. Also had to back off on the clutch pedal adjustment slightly. Go for it!

It appears that the same Grant steering wheel adapter that fits my 65 Cuda would also fit my 51 Plymouth. Haven't tried it though

HOLLYWOOD from the 80s flick "The Quest"...

I have 3, two of them restored

Yes, the truck has an open diff, dana out of a Cherokee, 3.73 gears as far as i know , i beat the hell out of it and it hasnt broken yet, the truck will will get 4 link and a 9 inch someday, but once you are driving them, its hard to stop and take it apart again. does have a line lock, used it to take a set as you said. My original plan was to do the front half of the truck, then tub it the next winter, but once the truck was done, with the style i went with , tubbing doesnt seem to me like it will look right, so now im thinking 4 link. the way it is now i can have lots of fun, and break no parts! As for the trest of the driveline, it is a balanced 360, 1973 block, nice street build, still has the cast crank, J heads, flat top forged pistons, milidon gear drive, thumper cam, MSD ignition, headman shorty headers, had them ceramic coated inside and out, flowmaster 40's performer intake, also ceramic coated inside and out, Holly 650 dual feed, double pump, mechanical secondary , the trans is a 727, 3500 stall, the whole setup works great and sounds awesome.

took a while to grow on me..but wouldnt change it now