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This followed me home yesterday. It was a 1975 Honda CB750F at one time. It's now UJM powered by an 18hp Briggs & Stratton flat twin. Fifty bucks from me is keeping it out of the scrap heap.

Another milestone! Real plates , first since 1981

Zero pressure. They are NOT pressurized systems on the B3Bs. I just went through this with my truck.

One comment on noise that I haven't seen mentioned. The closer to the engine the muffler is placed, the less it 'muffles'. The same muffler placed as close as possible to the manifold compared to at or near the rear bumper may sound much different. Buick used to place the muffler across the car right in front of the rear bumper and behind the gas tank. Even duals! they had a dual inlet, dual outlet that was really two mufflers in one case. In keeping with their dual reputation as a luxury performance car at the time. Anyone else remember the chambered pipe systems of the 60/70s? worked well on the chassis and engine the were original to, but didn't transplant well.

Its interesting that Chrysler by then was offering 8 colour choices of plastic dash pieces as well as upholstery in 13 colours and this in 1941, and that 80 years later very few cars apart from those in the super expensive categories like Rolls, Bentley and the supercar classes offer anything more than a couple of choices when it comes to interiors.. ..........back in the mid 1970's I was fortunate to be able to find and buy a 1948 Chrysler Windsor, these were apparently fully imported by the State or federal governments for official use, story is 12 or 20 all black cars all with the Highlander upholstery came into Oz.........I know that at least 3 certainly seemed to have because my car had a second pair of taillights bolted onto the area between the original taillights and trunk opening........plus it had another, third set loose in the trunk with extra chrome moldings and other bits & pieces..... ...........I paid, I think $100 for the car, unregistered but driveable and complete.........I rented a local garage for about 2 years as I had run out of space at home, both myself & brother were into cars and at one stage had over a dozen cars in and around our parents house, the backyard, front yard footpath and on the street........lol.........I ended up selling the 48 Chrysler for I think about $200 and even had to drive it to the young guys place, about 25-30 kms down the local highway one sunday morning very early....... ............heres the only 2 pics I ever took of this car...still miss it, was like driving the Titanic............and I absolutely loved the dash, everything including the clock worked.......... ..............ah.......thems was the days, I was bright eyed, bushy tailed, young & silly......lol......now, just silly......lol...Andy Douglas

Only problem I see with that car is no back seat for the kid to ride in! Otherwise it sounds like a great project.

Close,but no cigar. 1:Blow ALL the dust and dirt off the top of the engine with compressed air. 2:Pull the plugs 3: Fill each cylinder to the top of the threads with Marvel Mystery Oil. You might want to thin it out with brake fluid to make it easier for it to flow past any stuck rings. 4:Go in the house,and since you are so pumped up,chase the wife around the house for a while. What you do when you catch her,is between you and her. 5:Go back out into the garage the next day and look to see how much,if any oil has leaked down past the rings. Top them all off again, go back in the house and repeat the next day,and until all 6 cylinders have oil leaking past the rings. Try to turn the engine over with the fan. IF it turns over,put a ratchet with a long handle on the socket on the crankshaft nut and turn it over several times. If not,fill any cylinders still stuck with a mixture of brake fluid to thin out the MM ,and keep repeating daily until it does turn over. You might have to put a little bit of "snatch/jerk" pressure on the ratchet or breaker bar to "shock it loose",but don't get carried away. You do NOT want to risk wringing the head off the crankshaft bolt. You can also use the starter to "bump" the engine to unstick it. Just make sure "bumping" it is all you do. Make REAL sure you drain the crankshaft and fill it with new,clean 30wt non-detergent oil before you try starting it. Once you do fill the crankshaft,make sure the spark plugs are still out,and spin the engine over with the starter until you see oil pressure building up on the oil pressure dash gauge. Once this happens,put the plugs back in,grab a fire extinguisher,and try starting it. BTW,if you haven't already done this before,remove the gas tank BEFORE trying to start it,and use a long hose and something like an outboard motor tank with gas in it to start the car. That old gas tank is going to be full of rust and water,and cause you nothing but trouble. Once you get the engine running,buy a new replacement gas tank and be done with it. Go ahead and plan on buying a new/rebuilt fuel pump,and a new water pump also. Trust me on this. While you are at it,replace all the gas lines with the new copper/nickel gas lines,and replace the rubber gas hoses with new hoses that are rated for modern gas. Moden unleaded gas will eat the old rubber gas lines like acid. BTW,don't even THINK about trying to drive it anywhere before completely rebuilding the brakes. You might get the old brakes to pump up,and even work. Right up to the time they don't,and the brake pedal goes to the floor. Plan on new wheel cylinders,a new/rebuild master cylinder,and new brake lines (copper/nickel once again because they don't rust) and new brake hoses. ALWAYS think "Safety first" because it protects both you and your investment.

Here is a (minimal) step-by-step procedure to follow when trying to start a car that has not run in many years: #1- Drop the oil pan and clean it out - it will probably have an inch of sludge in it #2- Remove the spark plugs and squirt some WD-40/oil into each cylinder. Either clean or replace the spark plugs. #3- Turn the engine over BY HAND - this will assure that the lubricant will coat the cylinder walls. #4- Remove the valve covers and clean out the sludge that sits in the oil "wells" - And, get someone else to turn the engine over by hand, while you watch the valves/lifters. You may find that there are a couple of stuck valves #5- Remove the distributor cap & rotor and either clean the points or replace them and the condenser. Also, check the cap and rotor - they may need to be cleaned or replaced. When cars sit these parts develop oxidation and need to be "cleaned" - or filed to remove the oxidation. #6- As mentioned above - check coolant, hoses, belt, etc. You might want to lube the water pump, too. #7- Run a remote gas tank with fresh gas connected to the fuel pump. #8 - And most importantly - HAVE PATIENCE - DO NOT RUSH TO TRY AND START THE CAR WITHOUT TAKING, AT THE LEAST, THE ABOVE PRECAUTIONS. YOU CAN DO A LOT OF DAMAGE BY JUST DROPPING A BATTERY IN AND CRANKING THE ENGINE......

For some time I've considered how to get really big brakes on my Plymouth. It wasn't so much that I felt a need as I realized that you could. My Plymouth P17 has 10 inch brakes, a similar year DeSoto has 11 inch and Chrysler Windsors have 12 inch. Let me tell you a 12 inch Chrysler drum fills a 15 inch wheel! I've read about other people's adventures putting disc brakes on Plymouths and it just seemed to me to be more work and engineering than it was worth. Chrysler across its line of cars had a continuity of design. As cars got bigger and heavier they placed bigger brakes on them of exactly the same design. Thus a Plymouth uses the very same hydraulics as a Chrysler. Which for the company meant lower costs of stocking parts. For service it meant there were no surprises or re-training for technicians. For manufacturing it meant associated parts could be the same thus again lowering costs. Because high volume cars like Plymouth and Dodge paid the engineering costs, the company could afford to make better DeSotos and Chryslers. That is the real beauty of Mopar cars. Since Chrysler Brakes CAN be put on a Plymouth, you knew somebody WOULD. And I am certainly not the only one who has done this. I studied the shop manuals and parts supplier's sites and found that the king pins in the front were the same but the Chrysler spindles had Torrington Needle Bearings in the top (thus a different P/N for the King Pin Set). Torrington discontinued the bearing Chrysler used decades ago. I found an NOS King Pin Set for my project at a reasonable price with the needle bearings. In retrospect I think one of the reasons the bearings were discontinued is that they tend to get stuck and they skid more than roll. One supplier sells a kit with a thick bushing in place of the needle bearing (at a good price too) and this may be a better choice. Speaking of bearings, even the wheel bearings and seals are the same. If you are on a treasure hunt you will need the spindles, backing plates, drums and the tubes from wheel cylinder to wheel cylinder. Being kind of picky I bought a left handed 1/2 x 20 tap & die to clean up the threads on the left side for the lug bolts (most tap & die sets have right handed 1/2 x 20 in them). I sand blasted everything and put some paint on them just to keep the rust at bay. Tomorrow I begin to install the front brakes. 6BB2C2CC-563E-4F8F-8FA6-F7DB6613C9A9_1_201_a.heic

This car showed up at tonight's local cruise in. Color is factory original. 1 of 1 remaining. 4 cylinder overhead valve 30 hp engine. https://www.conceptcarz.com/z25622/petrel-30-hp.aspx

Eat the elephant one bite at a time.................. ?

I usually go here https://carburetion.walkerproducts.com/ for my carb kits, but they don't list one for a U1

It's not too late to come out on the P15 tour of the Fingerlakes in NY. Get some shake down miles on it and come on over Sept 16 to 19. A group of us 5 or six will be traveling from the Syracuse area to Canandagua on Thursday morning. Two or three from New England plan to travel from MA. NH, to Albany on Wednesday afternoon. Car looks great.

yes....and both are too stubborn to budge!

A great light bike, I also own one... Good for around town - doesn't disturb the neighbours when I fire it up. ?

I did not hear Keith cursing Skip ahead to 21 min and will see him adjusting #5 cold. Some very good tips in the video though, you may not want to skip ahead. Very organized approach to the task. Like the diagram and keeping track of before & after settings. Maybe not necessary but useful. I guess we just need to keep in mind that the metal will expand when hot, so we add clearance when adjusting cold. So the book suggest to set them while hot because they are expanded. Initial assembly you need to set them cold. A Ford flathead V8 you have to pull the intake off to adjust the valves. Would be pretty tough to set them while still hot.

So...between the two of you, y'all have a complete truck

I can show YOU the opposite one if you want! ?

Replaced my 12si with a local 10si one wire for $52 +$33 core charge so I got to take it for a test run. As a side note I have 14.5v at idle without having to rev at all to excite the alternator. Lights don't dim a bit at idle when fan is kicked on high. Low 70s sitting idle in the garage for 20 minutes the AC comes out at 50. 30mph 1/4 mile loop the air coming out was in the low 40s. Won't know til it gets 85+ how things work. Temp gauge was near the upper end of normal. The needle was parallel with the right side of the A in HEAT. head temp was about 185 via IR temp gun. This is a bit hotter than it normally runs but my rad was about 3" low too. I'll do a Dawn soap flush and add some water wetter and see if there is an improvement. Still need to add the drain tube on the evap. It produces a significant amount of water.

Im blown away! You kick serious butt. Thank you for this presentation. MIT needs you! (Seriously). We were fortunate to have metal shop< wood working and and Auto shop class in our HS. I chose metal and it became a career for me. I hope you chose a career in education Loren. Thanks!

Wife: You could buy me that car! Me: You shoulda married Bill Gates when you had the chance.

additional information - flathead radiator cap identification

Considering Kenosha is about ten miles from me I am amazed I never heard of that car before. Thanks for posting it

As a life long Massachusetts resident and have driven in Boston, I must say I totally agree with this. I do not need to go to Boston very often but when I do, the train is a blessing. John R

Super Hemi turbo, pn 17749 is real hard to beat for performance and noise control.

I'm looking for a good machine shop in the Seattle/Portland Or. area to rebuild my flat head six motor for my truck, need the block checked out, crank turned, cam, and the valves done. looked online but don't see much. Also I have a flat head six long block if anyone wants it, from what I can tell, it's a car block with a truck oil pan, has two dip stick holes and throttle fitting on the head. Anyway if anyone needs a long block it's free, can load in pick up or trailer for you. I'm in Port Ludlow Wa. I'm new to the web site, enjoy it very much. Looking forward to getting my 50 Dodge on the road and going to the BBQ in April, see you there.

Something great about the unique naming of this website: any question you have, ANY question, just go to google and type "p15-d24" and whatever you want to know. There's very little that hasn't been covered. I've done countless such searches while resurrecting my car (which had been in mothballs long enough for the engine to be stuck.)

Welcome to the forum. Your car has great potential judging by the pictures you posted. Being nearly rust-free is a major bonus. I have a '51 Concord business coupe as well. Mine hasn't run since 1973 and is composed of parts from about half a dozen cars and has badly rusted floors and rockers. I'll get to it one of these days (or years...). Don't hesitate to ask questions. Someone always chimes in with an answer!

It is a given these old engines are going to be full of sludge unless they have been rebuilt. They all used non-detergent oil back then,and was an even worse mixture than it is today. Cars that were driving in rural areas tend to not be so gummed up because they ran long enough to get good and hot,but city cars that were driving only short distances and never really warmed up good tend to be seriously gummed up. I don't worry about this when I start messing with a old car that has been sitting for years. First I worry about getting it unstuck and running so I can see if it holds good oil pressure and hear if there are any knocks or rattles. Once I know the engine to be good,I worry about dropping the pan and pulling the side plates to clean it out. Too much work to do initially to only find out it has no oil pressure and knocks.

If you see sludge under the valve side covers , there will be sludge in the pan .

Wouldn't hurt to drop the pan but no guarantees that there is sludge in your motor. I just resurrected a car that has been sitting since 87. Motor was spotless, had been rebuilt not too long before being parked. Still has crosshatch in the cylinders. You never know what someone has done before you, good or bad.

your on the right track. MMO down the holes. Turn it over by hand a few times a day. Drain the tank. Put an in line fuel filter. Fresh battery Now try to bump it gently. Have someone look for fuel leaks. Youve come to the right place. The Disciples of Chrysler. Take us for a spin

Have a big fire extinguisher on hand and maybe install a battery quick disconnect just in case. I have a 51 Cambridge, so mechanically we have pretty much the same car. Be happy to help where I can. That is a truism. I have four of them and they all grew up so fast I can't believe it.

Thanks Tom for the welcome and your 48 is beautiful. This is by no way a quick flip or cash grab and a plan out it being here for quite some time. Only thing i am looking to get out of it is learning as much as i can and hopefully pass something along to the next generation. There is no timeline and having dealt with classic cars before, i am aware any timeline i make, i might as well times it by 10. The only thing i would farm out would be the rust repair because i would want that done correctly by a professional. Rolling and properly patching is something i am not ashamed to say i know very little about. This will truly be a labor of love and hopefully a family project.

Logans51, Welcome to the Forum. I restored my most recent 1948 Chrysler Royal with my son in the last 14 years. It is a very rewarding process. Now for your most recent acquisition. Everybody knows nobody wants cars from the 50's or 40's anymore, so, restoring this one should be a work of Love only, - with the caveat of - you will never get out of it what you put into it. So be careful how much work you farm out. Do it yourself. Even then it will only be a project of Love. Young people only want 60's and up muscle cars today. They bring the money. Like any collection it is the three legged Bar Stool. Condition, Rarity, and Demand. Without all three of these components the Bar Stool falls over. Demand is just not there. Maybe some years hence, (and I might add I have been waiting with several old Mopars since 1973 and it still hasn't happened) these old buses will bring some money. Until then go slow, be frugal and raise your boy turning those wrenches. The time will fly by and you will wake up some day wondering where it went. Enjoy the process, I did, my wife and I had our 2 kids (both United States Marine Sergeants) when we were 40 and 42. Now at 65 we miss them that they are not around. They grow up so fast it will startle you. Good Luck buddy and stay on this forum with any questions you may have. Finer people you will never meet. Tom

so is my 54 Plymouth....my insurance agent asked me to start it up so he could hear it run....I told him it was running now.....

in my experience and the go to for me overall for the best sound ever is a oval (pancake) turbo muffler.......good sound...not deafening...no brap....just deep throating sound....smittys, thrush, glasspacks.....just too sharp on the average...

Allbizz: Yes you have the right for straight pipes and headers, But if you lived next to me in a neighborhood in a housing development and you keep waking me up every moring to go to work early in the moring Iwould be having an issue. There are nosie restrictions and if your car is loud and say I work a night shift and your truck is disturbing my sleep during the hours that you are going to work that is a violation. Most twps do not have a specific time frame for noise. it alldepends on how the nosie affect the people around your location. So put this situation as you are onthe reciving end of the noise. I am not trying to start arguments but trying to get people to understand how loud pipes loud motocyles pipe affect other people. Again there are restrictions and courtesies that people do not consider for other people. Again the Me generation and if i want the loud pipes the heck with everyone else they have to lie with the loud pipes. If you lived out in the country farm land then not some much of an issue but inthe general population housing developments it is an issue. And no i am not an old grumpy guy, We as a society have forgotten that other people around us also have rights. So just look at the C 19 issues. People refuse to get the vaccination shots becsue their right to choice is being violated. But they have that right, but when i was kid the Polio vaccine was found and the Govt mandated that everyone get the vacination. We did not know what the long term affect might be but we did know that it would prevent us from being paralized or put into and iron lung and it stopped the spread of polio. Now off my soap box rich Hartung

You all have been so helpful, I figured I should update you, especially since people keep throwing on more useful information without my response. I do apologize for nothing sooner, it's hard with little kids n no garage to get free time from the kids thay coincides with cooperating weather to work on the car. That being said, I brought my stuff inside and put in a new breaker plate, swapped out the wire and coil and ran a small circuit with just the battery, ignition coil and distributor. Low n behold I got spark! So while I have every intention of trouble shooting the parts I replaced again to see where the issue is, I'm very happy to be seeing spark. Once it stops raining I'm going to put the distributor back in, install my new plugs and wires and hopefully with everything set back up i can get her to run. I'll update again when able.

A few years ago I got real lucky at a local swap meet....found a pretty nice P15 clock in a box of assorted miscellaneous parts and the seller said he wanted $15 for it. So it sometimes pays to check boxes of "stuff" at swaps. Otherwise, the NOS clocks offered on eBay have gotten pretty pricey. I like Andy's picture of a clock deal....pretty clever---and cheap. Most people at a car show will look at your interior but will not catch something like the phony clock. And----you have to become familiar with just which clock fits the Plymouth as each brand of Mopar back then had a very similar looking clock but they will not interchange. This is a P15 clock,,,,,,,,,,,, This is a Chrysler clock.........

Loren...........not sure if you were around when I had the 41 Plymouth but with a name like Andrew Douglas I can't help to be desendent from some Scotish tightwads....so....I wanted a 1941 Plymouth clock...the only one that kept coming up on epay was around $800 US which made it about $1400 Australian at the time...I wanted the clock, not the rest of the car.....anyway I thought........I'll take a few screen dumps of the nice clock pictures and resize them, eventually got one the same size as the dash hole and glued it to a piece of clear plastic then inserted that into the reversed clock delete dash piece and installed my "new clock" in the dash.......looked great, kept perfect time.....well twice daily it did and only cost me a few minutes, time that my new clock kept .....sometimes...........lol...........don't have a pic and as I sold the car I've always wondered whether the new owner got the clock working properly....nah..I didn't tell him..........lol................andyd

Just found this thread and just wanted to chime in. Just got my permit about a month ago. While I was working in North Dakota I found a great deal on a good starter bike. Found this 2007 Yamaha Virago 250. It was posted for 1300 and I though it would be good to putter around town on. Met them in Montana and wow what a deal. It only had 550 miles on the odometer. It was basically brand new. Since I have only put about 200 on it but man is it fun. I'll have to work on my own camping rig after seeing some of yours....