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The vehicles look European. Maybe it's an Eastern Block country.

Looks like the road is blocked...

Thought some here might like this: https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/features/car-of-the-week-1948-dodge-b-1-b-half-ton?utm_medium=email&_hsmi=144170040&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-_jrTyhGQ2MVYB0VJrEhbDnat-Lp5L75numxPtUXW0i_ViEoJVUnsFAJsD8OD3ri1zdHP_U_980ND7SrQMiCQ8lJy7eWw&utm_content=144170040&utm_source=hs_email

More fun assembling today. Always stressful drilling holes through the paint. Fun stuff ?

With the Gyromatic it’s important to keep your carb and distributor especially if you find an engine from a different application. You just need a good short block. All of the ancillary components can be taken from the original engine.

Maybe I'm just lucky but I've never seen a hint of parasitic drain with my single-wire 6v alternator and I never use a charger. Even in the winter, pull the choke, hit the starter and it fires almost instantly (I do have an electric fuel pump, however). I suspect one reason this is the case is that the alternator keeps the battery fully charged even at idle. I've had the P15 sit undriven for three weeks or so and have never been able to tell the starter was lagging. If someone wants to retain the generator, that is fine. But some of the above comments about drain, wiring complexity, difficulty in sourcing, etc, just haven't been applicable in my installation. The alternator has been completely transparent in operation, headlights always bright, starter spinning quickly.....and the ancient regulator (tried twice to get a new one that worked...) in the scrap box. It's good to have options. ?

Going to agree to disagree here. I like the stock gear spread and with an OD it would be pretty close to perfect. I mean the TK5's 2nd gear is almost as low as the stock 1st gear and you think the stock trans is busy with rpm? Maybe I am not understanding what you mean by that. Anyway that's what makes the country a wonderful place, you can be happy with the TK5 and I can be happy with something else and no one is upset.

Stock is what is horrible, engine always busy with rpms, have to stop to go to first gear. I went through several stock three speeds before I went with the TK5. First is low with the 3.9 stock rear, and is still a little low with the 3.7 Ranger gear, but still worth it with some steep hills/driveways here in Va. 4th and 5th work great. Even a TK4 four speed would be better than my stock 3 speeds. My Coupe only has 82hp, so the trans makes it more enjoyable.....

You’re a braver man than I am! Also, I have never seen that option before……..on any car. I see from the packaging that it is a genuine Mopar product. Very interesting and thanks for posting.

As I remember, the three holes lined up pretty well. I had to elongate the holes a bit, but it wasn't major surgery.

I have a 51.

I lived in Denver for 20 years in the late 90's, looking back I didn't care for Denver as much as Colorado Springs. COS was a small town feel when I moved here 17 years ago, but has continued to grow from all the Military bases expanding.

LOL. It's a great stopping point! I stopped there in Fall 2019 when I moved to L.A. from WI with a stuffed rabbit riding shotgun. My friend lives in Denver and has a young kid who got a ton of presents that were overcrowding my little car. Would have been nice to own a frikkin truck!!

Your wife`s metro is actually more closely related to Tim`'s Austin America than it is to the. RAMBLER. THE Metropolitan engine was a version of the ,Austin, Morris, MG A series that powered several versions of the Mini, the Austin Healey Sprite, MG Midget, Morris Minor, Austin America, and others. https://www.aronline.co.uk/engines/engines-a-series/

I know nothing about Gyromatic transmissions, nor do I know anything about what unique, if any, engine mounting issues they may have. Sorry.

The trim for each Chrysler product model had/has a different cross section design. So, the piece from another MoPar model may fit, (but note Doug&Deb's post), but it still won't match very well. The average Joe & Jane probably wouldn't notice, but folks familiar with these cars will.

Your truck in 2017 was amazing, and a stage that many on this forum (including me) aspire their own trucks to be already. It's a really solid truck, and has all the parts, but suffered from the usual deficiencies that require a little bit of updating including: A/C, highway drivability, engine maintenance, brakes, and maybe a nice wax. The solutions this mechanic chose are the "easy" way out - rip and replace , instead of refine and hone, and unfortunately those nuances are not readily there unless you are steeped in the options available and a strong vision being followed. To be fair, the engine/drive train restomod will achieve the goals above, and get you a very very nice daily driver truck. A really experienced mechanic could at this point really give you an accurate estimate of parts and labor because there is no mystery any more to the mechanicals, and (presumably) the rest of the body is still there. As a truck, it's quite a simple vehicle with not a lot of parts or detail work, so to speak, unlike the sedans. I refer you to this page on Wisconsin consumer protection laws: Be careful now in what you say to him, and do not ignore the bills, as they are protected under Wisconsin Law. IANAL (I am not a lawyer), but basically your rights are protected for authorized repairs, and your best task is to carefully document *everything* from the beginning. The trick is distinguishing authorized from *unauthorized*, and any estimates provided or not provided along the way along with itemized invoices (including part prices and labor). He is required by law to keep parts for your inspection/retrieval, and my mechanic always keeps them for me until *after* I pick up the vehicle in case I want them. Any kind of expert tends to wash over the details for the customer by necessity, but that is normalized through the estimates and approval process. I have been in your position before too, surprised by a bill by a mechanic on my vintage Chrysler, and it's not a good spot because you know work is done, and you wonder why it wasn't communicated or did you ask for more, or you just don't want to create conflict. It sucks. I'm not sure this was ever really a "trust" relationship, it's a business one with ill-defined parameters. It frequently comes about from being too palsy and loose with the mechanic: "Oh could you just do this, or 'how about this one little other thing'". It's easy to become "pseudo-friends" when the work is long and drawn out, but really you want the work to be more like when you take the car to the reputable factory dealer for repairs - very mechanical and procedural. It happened to me especially in the beginning when I was more nostalgic and less informed about what is required to do the work and I needed to trust the mechanic to do the job for the goal I was asking. This unfortunately needed a proper oversight and project management like your house restorations which really is the mechanic shop's responsibility. It especially becomes problematic when you have something so open-ended as "safety and pretty", because that is open to interpretation, and really the onus on the repair shop owner is to really nail down what it is you would like done at the detail level. This is similar to any type of project whether automotive, residential, or building software. As one example: Would it have been sufficient to just check all the drum brakes, replace master cylinder, and move forward, or was it necessary replace front drums with disc brake kits (ala scarecrow kit), or a third option is to replace the whole front end (which they did here) giving you stopping power, easy steering, modern radial tires. Slippery slope especially when customer is uncertain at the technical level and depends on the service person to make the technical judgment call. Your check-and-balance is the estimate plus progressive invoices and milestones. That decision point should have been made with your consultation and appropriate cost estimation, and if it looks like it's going to run over the estimate, advisement well in advance Basic project management and part of the accounting the shop should have been doing regardless. You see this happen on those TV Show builds quite a bit -- person drops off their car with shop, and 6 months or years later, the car comes back bling bling with an equally bling bill. They almost never show the billing conversation, but I have seen that they do keep the owner apprised and send periodic bills. What has happened is NOT water under the bridge, but now must be dealt moving forward. Sentimentally, this would be amazing to finish, but is it a $55,000 truck? No, and you will never get $55k out of it. For that additional $28k, you could get a completely restored most anything you want kind of vehicle with fresh paint, and the reality is that the money you put into these vehicles almost never pays out in market value (see labor estimates as an example). Frankly the next owner will get a steal-of-a-deal from your truck because it's mostly there, but takes some skill and knowledge to finish it off. If they have it themselves, then for another $5 to $10k in parts, they will have a sweet truck. This is why you see some/most builds go on for years here on the forum. We are doing it on the side, when we can, bit-by-bit. If you really are keen to finish it, call up custom shops in your area, and explain the situation and show the pictures (or rather go to the shop). You basically want to get it back to original running order from 2017 but with this new power train. Maybe for another $15k it would be worth it considering in the market a fully restored restomod goes for about $35k. They will tell you they can't give you an estimate without looking it over, but still they should have an idea. Heck, I have only seen low res pictures, but they should have some clue. $20k is probably not unfair for the work done so far, it's just not the $20k worth you were expecting (or maybe even agreed to). This current shop could do you a solid by telling you what has and hasn't been done from the list plus anything else. I hope this info helps you forward making a decision and action.

Young Ed and I could make Cottage Grove MINNESOTA in about 30 mins....Cottage Grove WisconSIN.....likley a few more hours (about 4). But I'm always up for a good road trip!

Find a local wire rope shop and have a new wire, with crimped ends installed in your housing.

From this site it says "Dodge seems to have labeled all 230ci FH6s used in Dodge trucks in 1959 either M23 or M230." https://t137.com/registry/help/engine/engine.htm

Some of the posse of this forum ....48dodger, ggdad, Merle, Ed, Jerimiah, Todd and others.....CA, WI, MN....yes, we meet up sometimes. 48D

This and a few other fellas could get a nice posse put together

I agree, first few gearscare low. Once you get on the highway and row it into fifth, it's worth it. At least for me. I like the A833 OD too, just not as available or inexpensive. I did just pass on one for 300 though. I don't have anything to put it in and I try not to be a hoarder, haha.

You missed one Sniper. 86 and later s10 t5 ratios...... 1st - 3.76 2nd - 2.18 3rd - 1.41 4th - 1.00 5th - 0.72 i had that in my 59 Lark with the stock flatty. Went down the road just fine. Freeway speeds and road trips no problem. I think 99% of people don't want or need anything other than a 3 speed. They're cars sit on battery tenders and only are driven on sunny days and for short trips. There's absolutely nothing wrong with that but some of us drive them daily and having an extra gear, even if not the most desirable, is still better than putting around at 55 everywhere. Now, my 53 is so stock, I wouldn't consider doing a swap unless I come across an r10 for cheap which just isn't going to happen.

No pic from a website free time at work…. Lol

Tonight my son and I rolled out in my ‘38 Chrysler. We met a mixed bag of car enthusiasts on the top floor of a parkade. We chatted with 20 year olds in boosted tuners. 30-somethings in lowered supercharged 2000 and up Mustangs. One 40-ish guy in a nice clean Buick Grand National. I guess being as I turned 50 this year, I solely officially represented the old-timers age demographic. My ‘38 was quite a hit among all age groups, as I too took interest in all their cars. It was a great evening out with my son. He had as much fun as I did. Some of his old highschool contacts were there also. Lots of questions like, “Flathead what? 6V Positive who? Why in the old days were big displacement engine so low on HP? Really, no first gear synchro? What make is your car? Made in Canada! Wow!” My old ‘38 doesn’t have cruise control or navigation. Yet it seems to take us to an ice cream stop every night we go out. My son and I hopefully will be doing several more cruises together this summer. Is there anything better?

So many variables on rebuilding an engine. How good do you want it to be? An engine rebuild may or may not require all the parts that I recently purchased. Everyone here will have a different opinion. I’d say Figure on +/- $2500 USD for parts gasket & seal kit, complete pistons & pins Piston rings exhaust valves intake valves valve guides valve keepers timing chain & both gears all main bearings all rod bearings piston pin bushings camshaft bushings new oil pump new water pump new water distribution tube new spark plugs New head bolts All new block expansion plugs possible: all new tappets new camshaft plug wires coil new valve springs Figure +/- $1500 USD for machining work. Again, pending what is needed. hot tank and crack check block. If it gets a pass: Bore cylinders out mill top deck mill head turn main crank journals down turn rod crank journals down Re-cut valve seats check con-rods for straightness install the new cam bearings install the new valve guides align bore main caps. Rarely needed. lap-in new valves Want them to do all the work? You just drop off an engine core? Add $1500 to $2K for labor. More Options: rebuild carb rebuild fuel pump rebuild generator rebuild starter rebuild distributor flush radiator how’s the clutch and motor mounts? It adds up…Fast.

My favorite Mopar Youtube Celebrity just replied back to my post ??

Nor can I answer 100%. Yet my gut tells me, pull the tranny. Ensure crankshaft ends are same on both engines. If so... Pull the blown engine. Remove bell housing off spent engine.Install on replacement engine. Check other differences. Swap over any other parts necessary. I’d wager the blocks are the same. If not time to think about a plan B. I have no experience with that exact combination/scenario above. I bet that with our combined knowledge here, we can confirm it can be done. Or not.

I'd like also to confirm if all these 25" long engines are drilled at the rear for the same bolt pattern? So in reality any bell housing for almost any flat 6 Mopar application could bolt up to the block? Adaptor plates (various bell housings) for a basic 3 speed manual, powerflite, fluid drive, fluid torque drive trannys etc...Could all bolt up to the rear of the various bore/stroke blocks. The main difference I have heard about is crankshaft rear flange. Various numbers of bolt holes and possible flange widths. Depending if you are bolting up a fluid drive or not. I have seen folks in this group have mentioned in various threads. Here's how I take it....A 25" motor, 3 ⅜ or 3 7/16 bore, can be bored over quite a bit. For example a 3 ⅜ can be bored 0.060 over, then you have a stock standard bore 3 7/16 bore engine. Then a stock 3 7/16 bore can be bored yet another 0.060 over. Is this correct? These are big old blocks from the heyday of Detroit iron. It's very easy to find a rebuildable core. Ask the seller if you can take the head and oil pan off. Then go see it. Take a snap T gauge that covers upto 3 ½", and a digital vernier caliper. Pick a couple of cylinders where the pistons are down. Measure the bore in the upper, middle and near the bottom of the cylinder. Side to side and front to back direction. Mark it all down on a piece of paper for each cylinder you choose to measure. If there is a ridge at the top, measure it too. If there is no ridge, great. All the better. If there is a ridge present, it will generally tell you what the last bore was. 3 7/16 = 3.43750". Add up from there. For example an engine that has been bored 0.030 over will measure 3.46750 at very top of the cylinder. Look for cylinder wall scoring. Consider how far it's been bored over already. Is there enough iron left bore out the scoring? A 0.060 over engine? Likely not. Remove the oil pan. Pull a main and rod cap. Knowing what looks bad will reveal most all you need to know. Scored crank journal bearing surfaces? Everything rusted up? Look up under bottom sides of pistons at cylinder walls. All rusted up? Not great. I walk through these topics here: Ignore my math calculation. I had done the math on calculator with only 2 decimal places so the 3 digit rounded up. The measuring process here is the topic. How to learn more about the used engine you found.

I did a quick look for a video on you tube that is an original advert for the hydrolastic suspension....I could not find it quickly but will post the link when I do....these little cars are being tweak with a number of retrofits...some very in depth builds....I wish but to pep it a bit, similar to what folks here do to the flatheads here....header, twin carbs and few other mild dress/performance features....just installing this engine I have had to overcome things like cable clutch to hydraulic, pot drive to Spicer joints, fuel pump changes, the added carbs and dressing them for fit to the firewall...same with header and still not quite locked onto the muffler I want. The cooling system required a number of tweaks in porting and routing. We all know the ever moving line in the sand on such retro fits but we that do them also know the fun it is to work these small details out and put them in play. I am having fun with the build. The trip to get the car and back home was a bit over 2000 miles....ONLY IF IT WERE CLOSER is a cop out statement to me.....if you want it, dang it get it....!!!

hey what's not to like.....its a two door and true to the SPORT name...the rear aerial and twin mirrors add a nice touch.......these are getting harder to locate also...my latest is not an American..but an America.....

Check out www.vintagepowerwagons.com Go to 'Shopping' and choose 'Online Parts Catalog'. Click on Group 7 Transmissions. Scroll to p. 46 for exploded view and individual parts are on p. 47-49. If you call them...1-641-472-4665...talk to Jenns. Dick Hultman Pittsburgh, PA 46 WC and 57 FFPW

I may have gotten this figured out.......we'll see. I'm new to the forum and to Dodge trucks. I bought a '54 Dodge C1 B6 that had not run in years. The nice thing is that it is a busted project that has been stored inside and there is not one speck of rust on the old truck. The engine is free but has a stuck valve. A couple of quick (non-technical) questions while I have you. My tailgate is fairly well bent up. What other years have the same tailgate as my '54? And i'm new to flatheads. Can I used the head bolts to lift the engine out of the truck? Thanks for having me and I look forward to being a member. a