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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/29/2021 in all areas

  1. Thought some here might like this: https://www.oldcarsweekly.com/features/car-of-the-week-1948-dodge-b-1-b-half-ton?utm_medium=email&_hsmi=144170040&_hsenc=p2ANqtz-_jrTyhGQ2MVYB0VJrEhbDnat-Lp5L75numxPtUXW0i_ViEoJVUnsFAJsD8OD3ri1zdHP_U_980ND7SrQMiCQ8lJy7eWw&utm_content=144170040&utm_source=hs_email
    3 points
  2. Looks like the road is blocked...
    3 points
  3. Just got my visor on today. Changed the whole look of the car. Love it.
    2 points
  4. I just redid how I bent the arm and also on my newer '46 Dodge distributor, the original bolt holes on the new canister work and no drilling of new holes except one on the arm is needed. Also, you do have to cut the arm too as it is too long. The distributor I am using is from a '46 Dodge and is #IGS-427A-1. On my older '39 Plymouth distributor, it requires new holes drilled into the cannister bracket to mount it as the holes don't line up and also needs to have the bracket bent back and spacer/washer added to let the bracket clear the distributor cap. The later model distributor worked way better as the distributor cap fits right on and you only need to modify the arm of the cannister. Took it for a spin and it worked great although I am going to try and fine tune adjust when the advance kicks in. I read somewhere that the advance on this VC168 cannister starts at 12" of vacuum. My motors manual says my distributor vacuum advance should start activating at like 5 or 6". This is super cool as it allows us to use off the shelf new cannisters with only minimal fabrication needed. Cant beat $17.
    2 points
  5. Today I finally drove my ‘38 Royal on the hiway. A trip of about 55 miles one way. There was a car event in my area. Finally we are seeing some resemblance of pre-pandemic life. I wanted to go to the car event. It was also a great excuse to test my car outside city limits. Up to today, I had briefly engaged the stock OD to test it. It seemed to work just fine. Today I finally got some considerable time on a divided hiway, OD engaged. I drove a mountain pass. Plenty of driving up and down hills. The Royal seems most comfortable to me at about 55 mph. It will go faster. I had it up to 62. The OD engaged and above 60, she’s not got much power left to overcome wind resistance. Perhaps I should try 60+ without OD. Then the engine revs are a bit higher. Maybe the engine is able to produce a little more torque? Although for me, I have little desire to drive at 60+ mph. I lean more toward the conservative type. Safety is a major factor for me. Stock tires are pretty narrow. Not a lot of rubber on the road. I like the driving experience. Not speed. The car handled fine. No shimmy. No wobble. Steering true. It drove straight and had good road feel. I felt really planted and secure up to 60 mph. I felt I could easily cruise all day, without tiring at 55 mph. Overall, the OD experience was very positive. Lower RPM’s, less buzzy. Fuel conserving I suspect. Climbing long hills on the hi-way she lost some speed. To be expected. The faster you go more power is needed to overcome wind resistance. Diminishing returns so to speak. So with a later 30’s flathead you can only expect so much. I got to thinking about cars and driving in 1938. Owing this Chrysler and cruising at 60 mph, I suspect you’d have been in a class above the majority of car owners. 60 mph in 1938 on public roads was pretty serious business I’d think. I am pretty-well convinced that my Chrysler would benefit from a 4.11 rear end. Based on where I live and drive, the hilly terrain, I think it would be better for me. From memory, I think my car currently has about a 3.9 to 4.0 gear set in it now. I’ve not opened it up to confirm. I’ll keep my eye out for a 4.11 assembly. A few pics from today.
    2 points
  6. 1 point
  7. From this site it says "Dodge seems to have labeled all 230ci FH6s used in Dodge trucks in 1959 either M23 or M230." https://t137.com/registry/help/engine/engine.htm
    1 point
  8. I only wanted to add, I am no small engine mechanic .... just have a lifetime of experience with them. And I watch videos. I can usually keep the old junk running. The difference though is our life styles. I was disabled 10 years ago when I was 48 years old. Now 58. I was building houses and doing finish carpentry work, employer was charging the customer $65 per hour for me to be there ... I ran a 3 man crew ... I had no time to work on lawnmower engines. Most working people really do not have time to mess with small engines. Not a bad thing ... just something you need to juggle your time with. I can see you easily making more money working your job and not messing with small engines. Simply a choice we make in life. @Eneto-55 Just saying life has more then one path, up to you to decide what path to travel. Here is a photo of a current project. I want to say it looks stupid, but am learning from it to fabricate sheet metal. It works perfect without a hood. The goal is to create a hood with lights like the old doodle bugs of the 1940's. Just trying to learn & fabricate like our Grandfathers did. I enjoy the learning. @Eneto-55 You could easily make money working and replace the pressure washer many times over. You have to wonder if you want to fix it, or just make life easy and replace it. Or you have time to learn from it. We have a local small engine repair shop here in town. The city brought in a commercial zero turn mower for repair. The shop owner quoted $1700 for replacement of the rear end. The city decided to buy a new machine and sold old machine to my neighbor for $50. He added fluid and used it for 2 more years til he died. The shop could have done the same. They were more interested in going in for the kill and make some serious money not check the fluids. You just need to be careful who you take your stuff to. A old retired fart like me can be good, while some shops can be bad.
    1 point
  9. I hooked up my brake bleeder vacuum gun to the VC168 to test when the vacuum comes on. I found it starts to activate at 7-8" of vacuum and is full in at 15". I also tried adjusting it clockwise with a 3/32 allen wrench but it barely moved and the readings were still about the same. I think that basically the out of box settings on the VC168 cannister has adjustment all the way out. Still runs awesome though, I definitely feel better throttle response at cruise and deceleration is more smooth. My old factory advance was leaking.
    1 point
  10. Some of the posse of this forum ....48dodger, ggdad, Merle, Ed, Jerimiah, Todd and others.....CA, WI, MN....yes, we meet up sometimes. 48D
    1 point
  11. nice article....altho I'd never pull my TROTTLE out to start the truck... LOL
    1 point
  12. This is my first pressure washer. I wanted one for awhile and looked for used. Seems they all needed a new pump. Been abused ... Or if they worked & they were asking for as much as a new unit. So I just bought a new one. I think they sell enough pumps that they are reasonable in price. I also am anal about having water connected to it. I wont even check for spark without the water running through it. I just lay the wand on the ground out of the way and have a spring clamp on the trigger to flow the water. I know the engine will not start .... feel it is a good habit to get into. Anytime the motor turns over it has water flowing. The water is the lubrication for the rubber pieces in the pump. Turning it over dry you may not kill it .... possible you will lose a few hours of service life from the wear. Would you drain the engine oil from your car ... then turn the engine over to check for spark? May not kill it but not doing it any favors. Possible will lose a few hours of service life from turning it over without proper lubrication. Just my feelings on it, may be anal or just taking care of what you have and keeping full performance from the machine. Adjusting the valves is pretty simple. Just like a car engine. A lock nut and adjust the shaft ... make sure the valve is closed then set the clearance. Can probably study the head and determine which valve is working the intake/exhaust. You really just need the spec to adjust them to. On one video I watched "mustie1" He was repairing a riding mower with no compression. The valve adjustment was very loose. and the adjusters had a piece of machined hardened steel for the push rod to ride on. So the rest of the valve train was made of mild steel ... cheaper to make. When the adjustment got loose enough, the hardened steel piece fell off, the push rod no longer made contact. Not saying all engines are like this, just something to be aware of if you see something strange. And why I think it important to spend a few min to inspect once in awhile. The rubber plunger on the carburetor is more like a model and manufacturer difference then a age difference. I had a 1952 Triumph motorcycle that had a metal plunger on it and sure the older 40's motorcycles had them not sure when it originally came out. And my new weed eater I bought 2 months ago has a plunger on it. The plunger has been around in one form or another forever. Then my 2 riding mowers and my pressure washer have choke only on them. Pressure washer also new this year. What your wife says makes a lot of sense sometimes. One shop visit you could have as much as the price of a new machine invested in it ... I paid $350 for mine. You are not wrong either. I actually like the learning experience. They are very simple machines to work on. You can learn much from them. Like working on our old cars for many like myself is relaxing and not stressful. You could just replace the engine and get on with your day. Or diagnose the problem and make a educated decision ... know why you are better off replacing the engine.
    1 point
  13. I’ve been reading along until now as I really had nothing of value to contribute. It now seems like you have arrived at the point where it becomes an interpretation of an oral contract partially supported by emails. in my mind the question is one of agreed scope. Was the intent to restore or modify? If you specified a running driving stock truck he really varied from the spec. Are there any early communications that deal with restore vs mods? If so a court might see that in your favor.
    1 point
  14. This and a few other fellas could get a nice posse put together
    1 point
  15. I know someone who took the swan mirrors that were shot and cut off the mirrors and ground the base to a shape close to the stainless and then had them chromed and bolted them on. Also, you can wait and look on ebay and they stainless parts and clips come up from time to time. James
    1 point
  16. New reproduction swan neck mirrors for 1946-48 Chrysler /DeSoto can be had for about $1700.00 last I heard. Cowl mirror mount mirror delete stainless all have different shapes to match door belt moldings. Any 1946-48 Dodge, DeSoto or Chrysler stainless will be the correct length. Won't quite match the door belt molding. You also need the correct retainer clip assembly. Or glue them on with a giant tube of shoe goo!?
    1 point
  17. Dodge DeSoto and Chrysler used the same body shell. Plymouth is smaller. I’m guessing the trim is also smaller. I’d get dimensions from the seller before you buy.
    1 point
  18. I put new boots on the P15 drive shaft less than a year back. Rebuilt the u joints at the same time. Not more that a couple of hundred miles on them. I was under the car a few weeks back checking something else and noticed that both the new boots are starting to crack. Guess I'll go with leather when I have to replace them again. That was one of those jobs that I didn't think I would have to fool with again.
    1 point
  19. While cruising the coast, we get the "shaka" sign. My wife is in charge of hanging her arm out the window and giving the shaka back ?. I'm too busy hang'n loose. ?
    1 point
  20. Dodgeb4ya - Loads of thanks for solving my problem. As you guessed correctly, the part was attached to my shift bellcrank assembly in another box. Just for completion below is the diagram from the parts manual showing the part that I thought was missing.
    1 point
  21. In another thread I started I had a table of trans gear ratios compared to stock. I updated it to add the S10 T5 and the Ford TK5 ratios. They both are horrible, imo. The non world class 83-84 mustang T5 is closer to stock. trans gear ratios.xlsx
    1 point
  22. I would have to agree, it would take me more than a morning to bolt in a 5 speed. The T5s are plentyful, and not expensive, and with a little research, or just ask on here, one will find there are a great number of different ratios available. The T5s do require, in most cases, an adapter plate, and a little welding, but doable. Myself working on a budget, not because I need to, but because I wanted something no one else has done before, that I could find, desided to try the TK5, no adapter, and only a small amount of changing. After going through three 3 speeds going bad, I did the TK5. The TK5 Ranger trans and parts are easy to find in most areas and not expensive. I paid less than $100 for each trans, and $25 for the mill work on one. I, as many others, do not worry about "collectability", only that we enjoy what we do with what we have.
    1 point
  23. Honestly, if Merle would be willing to swing by the shop and get eyes on it, might not be a bad idea.....too much up in the air IMO. Gotta keep remote workers honest somehow.
    1 point
  24. It's not a spacer that goes there... It's actually another 3/16" thick mounting bracket for the shifter linkage bell crank /pivot. You probably still have this piece/assembly all still together? In a box, bag etc?
    1 point
  25. while a foreign make, this pic was sent to me...Morris chassis and cab and special build body as one off as I understand it in NZ....very bold look and very utilitarian...these cars in wagon/van concept from factory never had a one piece roof as shown...just a different car from a different time and a different country...but so much a likable beast. the D24 wagon that never was...................
    1 point
  26. LOL, Oh no Julie! Don’t let Merle near it or the interior will be more stripped ? (Photo of Merle from his build thread)
    1 point
  27. My truck is being used in an independent movie that's being filmed close to where I live. The main character has been filmed driving my truck in the movie in about 5 scenes. Sweet ? The details on the movie is here: https://lyviashouse.com/
    1 point
  28. Welcome Julie! 51 or 52? I’ve never “restored” a truck, so take it for what it’s worth. ? I would make it safe and enjoy what you have. LOL, But at minimum get the correct steering wheel and a horn ring ? well said on the resale JB
    1 point
  29. I'll let the more experienced give the good advice, but I do want to say what a lovely truck you have. From the pictures it sure looks to be in nice shape already. What are you wanting to do with the truck? Car shows? Cruise nights? Just roll around town? If it were me, I would drive it as it is so I wouldn't be terrified of using the truck for the odd run to the dump or tree dropoff. But your desires might be different from mine.
    1 point
  30. Remove only the loose stuff in the water jacket for now as you'll never be able to get it spotless in there...scrape out what ya can and leave the heavy scale, odds are it'll stay put for a long time. The water distribution tube should probably be examined thoroughly, at a minimum a hook fabricated to probe each tube outlet. If the tube is solid without any obvious signs of deterioration, then ya might can get by without yanking it out...but don’t be surprised if it sounds a little crunchy around #6.
    1 point
  31. Both approaches have merit. I've done both and they work. Machine and Replace everything at one extreme certainly is fool proof, but expensive and time consuming, especially at some machine shops. Tear down, clean up and measure, then fix only what is needed also works. Cheaper, faster and can provide good results. But one must trust their measurements and judgement. Or, use a trusted source to do the evaluation.
    1 point
  32. Every word Keithb wrote may well be true........,BUT you MIGHT only need rings and bearings,new gasket kit,and the valves ground. It costs absolutely nothing to HOPE for the best,while being prepared to get hit with the max load. This also depends on the use you want out of your car. If all you plan is an occasional trip to a local "park and show",why would you care if your car burns a little oil or the oil pressure is a little low? Even if that is so,I would spring for a new oil pump,fuel pump,and water pump. Don't overlook the water pump because it is on the outside and seems so simple. Sometimes the bushing in it may be worn out,or close to worn out plus rusty,and after driving it with no problems for a few days,your water pump will suddenly take a dump,leaving you stranded and facing a rollback ride that will cost you more than a new water pump would have cost. On the other hand,if your goal is road trips,you had better get everthing done that needs to be done,plus carry small parts like a spare water pump and fuel pump in the trunk,just in case. Not to mention spare belts and hoses,plugs,points,and condensor. You never know how hard this stuff might be to get if you are away from home. Consider the expense as an insurance payment.
    1 point
  33. While I don’t comment a whole lot on this site, it is a very valuable place for info that Bob has put together! I would LOVE to see it WOKE UP and be “modernized “ to be easier to post with pics etc. I think technology has progressed so much it could easily be done and the site would become ALIVE again in a big way with so many more truck people finding out about it. Perhaps just asking for an extract of the Flathead & Pilothouse stuff and starting a new site for trucks with links from here would be cool as well….for what it’s worth, those are my thoughts. Can’t hurt to ask!!
    1 point
  34. Its been dormant for years. The information is maintained by Bob Koch. He has moved to Wisconsin from California. If it was to start up again it would be his call. This forum and the DPETCA site grew together and apart. It has been mentioned to bring the info from the DPETCA site here. But that has yet to happen, thou the information links are shared. 48D
    1 point
  35. I pretty much use my Cambridge exclusively for my personal stuff. I have a company truck, 2019 Silverado, that's a monster to park and drive in town, 4x4, four door, long bed. I put way too many miles on it for work and don't care to drive it unless I have to. I get people talking to me all the time, good thing I got over my anti-social streak, lol.
    1 point
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