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I have a spare distributor from a 52 230. I have a points distributor from an LA engine (small block Mopar). I have an electronic distributor for a slant . Both have vac advance cans. Now all I have to do is remember that safe place I hid them in, lol. One thing about the LA and slant six OEM MoPar vacuum advance cans is that they are adjustable for rate of advance, to some extent. They also have the max advance stamped on the arm, remember to multiply by 2 to get crankshaft degrees.

When I bought my 49, the seller told me the wipers didn't work. Being a business coupe, the cheapest Mopar made, I knew they'd be Vacuum powered. In the box of spares that came with it were old wiper blades and arms. That should have been a clue as to the problem. This last week I decided to renovate a Wiedenhoff Distributor Machine I've had for years. Inside there is a robust Vacuum Pump to test the vacuum advance units. So I removed the Vacuum Wiper Motor from the Plymouth figuring it would be a good test of both. In all of my Mopar shop manuals there is nothing on Vacuum wipers. I suppose there were so many of them for so long they saw no need to tell the mechanics what they already knew. When I had done the TLC job on the pump I tried it out. The thing works perfectly...both of them. The first thing I did before pulling the Wiper Motor was pry off the wiper arms. Once I got the motor re-installed I hooked up a new hose to the engine and tested the linkage. I didn't realize it but vacuum wipers have a park position and an infinitely variable speed control. Electrics of the era had two speeds, too slow and way too slow. The next step was to mount the blades. I figure someone wanted to change the blades and could not figure out how to get them back on right. Park is achieved by going a little backwards when the vacuum is relieved. They must have given up and plugged the hose. Now of course vacuum wipers don't care what voltage the car runs. My car is so original (and low mileage) that it still has the Bull's Eye Head Lights and other stuff I am loathe to change for 12 volts. So I've decided to keep the 6 volt system intact. Vacuum Wipers of course run nearly acceptably fast enough at idle but the wider the throttle opens the slower they become until they sometimes stop altogether. There was an extra cost fix for that problem. You could buy a Dual Diaphragm Fuel Pump. The manual says very little about them but has one exploded view. A quick scan of eBay and I found two! The top chamber pumps vacuum, the bottom pumps fuel. So when you accelerate the wipers speed up and when you encounter a hill they just keep going at whatever speed you set. That infinitely variable speed control sounded real good. There is a consequence to this fuel pump. You can't run the Cast Iron Headers. In fact you can't run any stock fuel pump with them. Which means you have to go to an electric pump and since there are not that many 6 volt pumps....you're back to 12 volts again. So...When I get around to putting my Thickstun Twin Stromberg manifold on I am going to carefully work over the stock manifold with the Rusty Hope kit. However, I will braze in a divider. Rusty Hope adds a second exhaust flange under the carburetor heat stove area but makes no provision for divided exhaust. So that's my wiper story...and I am sticking to it.

I watch a lot of his videos, his wife drives a ls swapped dodge & not really into them. Last winter he chopped a think it was a 52 or 53 Plymouth ... pretty cool stuff but not really my deal. I like to watch his problem solving skills and how he works through them He built the General now that is a cool truck. A lot of fabrication skills mating the 2 International cabs creating a 4 door mounted on a Dodge cummins chassis. Making the bed and the rear fenders. The 22.5 super single semi tires ... one heck of a tow rig.

He sure loves to use a hammer!

The YOM plate looks great!

I prefer the Airtex E8902 for 3 reasons. It's a flow through model meaning mechanical pump (if Installed) can continue pumping even if power is off. It delivers max 4.5 PSI. same as mechanical pump, thus no need for pressure regulator or needle change. It's half price and more quiet.

I had the ‘51 Dodge D39 business coupe out for a run today. It was a pretty hot day and when I stopped, it was time for cooling off. Motor is still a big stiff after the rebuild and runs a tiny bit warm. Although not necessary, I put the hood up to help her cool down a bit more quickly once the engine was shut off. For me, I opened the trunk lid as the trunk floor is the perfect height to sit on and have a cool one. Both cooled off, we continued on our way a half hour later.

praying for no breakdowns?

Watched it too. Brent is about an hour from me. He builds stuff non stop. Said he has a few pilot house trucks. he sure was determined to get that engine running.

I have recently installed a heater in the DeSoto. I picked it up in a second hand shop. I bought a new brass heater tap, which is pull for on. I used the old choke cable to operate it. I had an old heater fan switch in my stash, it is off/on and variable fan speed. Works really well.

7-13: At the church with my son for a quick prayer, then out for a little cruise. ?

Mine has the under bed mount with an original 6.00 x 16” bias ply that is flat, and I need to get around to a new exhaust system also.

I went through hell and back with those grill bars! I'll go to the grave with them besides me lol. Just a 3 on the tree standard 1/2 ton trans. 2 and 3 are synchro.

Here's a couple. It's a project. Most likely going to sit a while longer before I get to it. It was in a barn that was falling down when I heard about it. It was going to be destroyed if I didn't get it out of there, so at least it was saved!

Send you old on to: Feltz Terrill Jr. Terrill Machine 1000 CR 454, De Leon, TX 76444 PH 254-893-2610 FAX 254-893-4841 terrillmachine@yahoo.co They have rebuilt several for me.

wait which is the sarcasm font? this one or this one?

I little fireworks for the weekend. 79916.mp4

My 52 B3B. My grandfather bought it on October 21, 1952 for $1,634.81 to use at his auto repair business. He told me when I was about 10 that it would be mine one day and I inherited it in 1975 with just under 48,000 miles on it. Work, kids, life, I just got around to the restoration thanks to the pandemic lock down. My goal was to put it back just like it was the day he got it. That's him at his shop in the early 60s.

I just finished redoing the wood bed . Truck has a dodge tailgate looking for a Fargo hard to come by. I don’t think it has the right rear fenders either will post a couple of pictures

And a red head too... Shop looks nice and clean. Could have closed the bathroom door though... ?

I have asked the seller and here is their quick response Sure thing, we can give you the easiest way to set it up. Step 1: connect terminal A (#6) on your old voltage regulator to terminal B (#4) Step 2: remove terminal F on your old regulator (not needed anymore) Step 3: connect wire from terminal A to the output post of the new alternator This will keep your ammeter active as well as provide battery voltage for your alternator to charge. Thanks. Thanks for all your answers

Here is a picture of my Fargo one ton the day I got it home. Fired it up. Drove it off the trailer. Backed it into the garage. Was a little dicey as no brakes. Thank goodness the ebrake still functioned.

Here is a current photo from yesterday and (if it works) one from when I first got it home. It's a '50 B2C