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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/13/2021 in all areas
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Hey All, I'm in the process of rebuilding my generator and starting motor, and quickly discovered how freaking tight the pole screws are in there, how round and unwieldy the motors are, and how easy it is to mangle the screw slots, no matter how careful I am. Motor's manual shows one of these neat devices: I'm sure one or more of you guys has a crate full of them. But for the rest of us... Two hunks of 4x4 lumber, all thread, nuts and washers, Harbor Freight 1/2 drive impact socket, 1/2 extension, breaker bar, threaded pipe flange reversed, and two cans of beer (optional). Carefully grind the screwdriver blade to fit the slot as precisely as possible. Shape the bottom 4x4 to match the round profile of the motor, though making it into a v-block would've been quicker and probably better. This genny was in the trunk of my heap, and if someone told me it spent the last 65 years at the bottom of the Hudson River, I'd believe it. Both screws cracked loose with no effort, no bashing, no swearing, and no mangled screw slots.8 points
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We had so much to talk about and go over the wrap up the sale, I forgot. The new owner will be calling me for support. I’ll be sure to let him know about this site. We just got home. From the time we left our hotel this morning until now at home, just shy of 16 hours. My wife rode shot gun. She helped me unload the car too. She’s a trooper. My 98 Dodge truck with Cummins diesel was rock solid. It tows like a tank. I swear it seems to get better fuel economy towing a 4,000 lb car. Lol. We had an epic road trip. From the Kamloops desert, we headed east thru the Rocky Mountains. Into the flowing foothills of Alberta. You could see the horizon meet the sky over fields of hay and canola there. At other points, the pillars of the Rocky Mountains were touching the sun as we weaved thru the valleys. We followed jade green rivers of the spring melt. One of the best road trips in recent memory.2 points
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when rebuilding the carb go get your self two empty egg carboard containers of go to the dollar store and get two bill reminder containers for each day of the week. Number is slot starting with 1- you have no more slots. As you take the carb apart put the first part in hole 1 and so forth until it is completely apart. This is important since there are several small ball bearing and each are a different size and they need to go back into the proper holes and can, can not be mixed up. This way you know which parts goes where by the reveser order of parts. Also go to Harbor Freight get their Sonic liquid vibration cleaner to help clean the parts of the carb. do not put the ball bearing in the cleaner keep them in the appropriate slots in the egg crate box. Take your time it is easy to rebuild a carb. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com1 point
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Why do you believe it needs service? They are usually a very simple device, and either work or do not. If it moves when a vacuum source is applied, and doesn't move after the source is removed while plugging the tube it is probably fine. Or, just check with a timing light. As to the arm moving but not easily, that is normal. The vacuum sources must overcome the spring resistance.1 point
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Remember also to use power tools for small screws, vice with no protection, an huge clumsy screwdriver and adjustable wrench.1 point
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Very slick. I have a particular appreciation for shop-made specialized tools. Thanks for posting.1 point
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Start looking around and pricing a replacement front bumper,fenders,hood,headlights,and radiator for your car,and I believe you will suddenly have a new appreciation for rebuilding the entire braking system. BTW,it is generally cheaper these days to buy new wheel cylinders than it is to buy the kits. Seriously. As for brake lines,look at the prices for copper/nickel brake lines at Advance Auto and tell me you are still willing to run the old steel lines that rust inside. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/SearchResults?storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1&searchTerm=copper nickel brake lines&pageId=partTypeList&actionSrc=Form&campmedium=aaplocator&campsource=jv&campcampaign=locationEntity&campcontent=productsearch1 point
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Wish I'd seen that years ago when I ended up taking mine to a repair shop.1 point
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Quick update. We (a friend who know a lot more than me) and I got the '40 Plymouth going today. We ended up having to install a new coil (old one was weak), new battery cables (old ones were frayed and the negative was shorting out), reset points as there was way too much gap, replaced the plugs, etc. Got the car going but it was missing really bad, then it stalled and wouldn't start... checked the plugs and no spark (again!). Ended up pulling the distributor to reset the points. We also replaced the condenser. Put it back in the car and it started and idled for about 10 minutes. We able to drive it around the block but it was sputtering all the way... now guessing it's bad gas or the carb may need to be rebuild (probably both). Good news is (1) the car starts, runs, drives, stops and (2) it shifts which I think means the OD is probably not damaged (yah). Anyway, thanks to all of you. Dave1 point
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@TodFitch appreciate it! Planning on trying to turn her over tonight so we shall see what happens1 point
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Yes, aft of the generator and in front of the distributor there is a 1.5 to 2" diameter tube coming up out of the bottom of the block. Remove the cap on the top of that put your oil in. Mine takes 5 quarts, I haven't checked but my guess is that is true for the other L-head 6 engines. Your owners manual and/or factory service manual will have the details.1 point
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I recently replaced the steering box in my '47 D25 Sedan and needed to centre the steering wheel and set the toe-in. After reading up on the procedure in the factory service manual and a '60s auto mechanics text, I built some crude but serviceable equipment from stuff lying around the garage. It seemed to work pretty well. When I replace these tires, I'll have the shop double-check my work... Photo 1: First task was marking/scribing a circumferential line all 'round the tread. This gizmo uses a ball-point pen refill, spring loaded against the tire to compensate for minor out-of-round. Mount gizmo on jack stand, rotate tire 360°, marvel that the start and finish of the line matches up! Photo 2: Closeup of marking process. Tire is spun down in relation to the refill. Arrow points at the circumferential scribe line (kind of hard to see). Photo 3: Home-made trammel points are set to exactly the width of the scribe lines at the back of each front tire, same height as the centre of the hub. Photo 4: Close up of trammel point, rear on LF tire, bang on the line. The other trammel point behind the RF tire is set the same. Photo 5: Trammel moved to the front of the tire, very carefully so as to not disturb the position of the points. Continued next post...1 point
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I bought a guy out of his truck parts and have been moving said parts all week. He's a forum member so I'll keep to myself about his story, but I'm just glad he called me so I can keep doing my part to keep the interest in old Dodge Trucks alive! I'm on my way to pick up the last few things including two L-6 engines. GOOD LUCK ? EVERYONE!!! 48D1 point
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I think you could have found a better suited donor axle.....adding spacers to an axle you really need to think the centric application over a bit closer.....IMHO it is not wise to set a non centric spacer/adapter then set a non centric wheel to that spacer/adapter.....you should take break, grab a coffee and contemplate what you doing and where you are going with this build. Lugnuts match the wheel bolt seat....some are standard conical, some are bulge and the universal aftermarket are usually shank....match the wheel as factory stock....this is the clamping force that is needed to keep the wheel on the car...1 point
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Well it's close. Nut is still tight and won't thread by hand but it will go on with a socket or wrench. I split a nut both directions (2 actually the first time I got a coarse thread out of the fine thread bin at the hardware store) and with a combination of taping half of it on the threads to kinda push it back straight and then using both pieces as a die from the good threads to the top it's straightened up.1 point
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Might have changed my mind on seats. I was originally going to go buckets with integrated belts but this bench fits sooooo good.1 point
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Kind of a combo idea here. Used a muffler clamp around the column as a sacrificial item. Hit it with the air hammer. That vibrated loose a small piece of the plastic exposing the backside of the metal core if the wheel. Hit that with a pinch while son pulled and it popped off. No further damage to column and only slight damage to an already pretty jacked wheel. Now onto try and fix some pretty bad threads.0 points