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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/18/2021 in all areas

  1. Dragged the 48 DeSoto chassis out on the driveway and pressure washed it using my new Husqvarna water pressure cleaner. Seemed to do a good job. Marc.
    3 points
  2. He and the previous owners did nothing good at all for the car. Together combined (not including the original owner) they put on less than 1,000 miles in 40+ years and left me with a pile of junk upon purchase. Yep, I was dumb enough to buy it. ? On the other hand, it's been the best and the most fun car I've ever had. And I've owned almost 60 cars.
    3 points
  3. 4-17: Took the road less traveled to my boss's mom's wake. The steep curvy road was one I hadn't driven in 20+ years. I was able to lug up the hill (about a mile) at 30mph without losing speed. The pictures are from after I reached the top, which is basically the highest point in Winona county because you're above the bluffs. It was a good time for a photo op. The smell of manure in the air, the clear skies, and the beautiful fields made me grateful to be alive.
    3 points
  4. unless you just happen to have the unit on hand to play with from the other car(truck) there is a better unit out there in retro land that even in my opinion beats the star players hands down, look into a Hurricane 1000, I recommend the 1000 verse the other two models based on analog and simplicity over vacuum signal and definitely over the proprietary operation of the top line electronic control package based on reported failures from the field. Most of the time these can be connected directly to factory control cables, switch location etc etc....I find them a very easy unit to install and had the best foot print of any in the industry and if you were really concerned over looks can easily be disguised as the factory/aftermarket heater of the era....you get AC/HTR/DEF in one small package.
    2 points
  5. 4-17: Out to Fleet Farm for mulch. 10 bags to start with. Who needs a truck?? The young lady at the Fleet Farm yard gate said, "this car is sick!" She wanted to know what year it was, and was surprised when I told her its a daily driver.
    2 points
  6. Also saved a 1950 Desoto nose from the crusher.
    2 points
  7. They remind me of those hooded headlights you'd see on dressed up Harleys back in the late 60's.
    1 point
  8. Here isa color picture of the MoPar Battery that is taken from my MoPar Battery Catalog. I have never seen a MoPar battery at any swap meets I have seen the Willard Battery. I have more literature on MoPar Batteries and will list a copy of the Battery catalogs from the 30's to the 50's. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  9. now that is looking at detail....I got a set of E code Hellas H4's not long back.....Netherlands I think their application. This is the car I have, the two tone dinge-mobile.....the lighting as it is.....and the the other car is what I want to look like as far as light arrangements....yes one would think they could find parts and info on the Princess/Vandem Plas....but I have struck out there also. The Princess is a nice high line car in trim...but two too many doors. Will stick with the 2 door saloons. And yes, the dorko hood pins are gone as is the damaged hood....my parking light will upgrade to the Euro clear/yellow lens for park and turn. Trying to get a clean looking install of a fully adjustable 5 3/4 sealed beam. with thanks to the Lemon Pipers... Drop your silver in my tambourineHelp a poor man fill a pretty dream
    1 point
  10. Marc, You are lucky you live in Temecula. If I tried to de-grease a chassis here on the sidewalk in San Francisco I would have the Eco Police on me in a heartbeat! Did you find the stamped number on the frame? I would like to know where it is so I can look for it when I pull the body up to replace the rubber on mine. I will stick my cell phone camera up there and take a shot. James
    1 point
  11. The dealership I worked for in the 60s had a Mopar battery Merchandiser standing in front of the parts counter. They had Mopar labeled 6 v group 1 similar to the ones above but they had red stripe on the yellow portions. The 12volt had the forward look design on them. This was in the mid 60s. My dads 54 Meadowbrook had the Mopar logoed battery in it. It also had a Mopar labeled jiffy jet windshield washer set up. The one with the foot pump and the plastic bag that looked like an IV bag. https://www.ebay.com/itm/ORIGINAL-MOPAR-JIFFY-JET-WINDSHIELD-WASHER-FLUID-BAG/184531632728?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=184531632728&targetid=1068323852870&device=t&mktype=pla&googleloc=9005095&campaignid=11615792065&mkgroupid=114626994193&rlsatarget=pla-1068323852870&abcId=9300456&merchantid=101491398&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpYbgjo-I8AIVB4TICh0p-AGUEAQYCCABEgLjNvD_BwE&pageci=f901d15a-6e56-489d-b121-bedbbba5c295&redirect=mobile
    1 point
  12. I got 10 bags of mulch in the 47 Plymouth. 8 in the trunk and 2 in the passenger front seat. There were about 6 people helping load the bags. They all wanted to check out the car. So much fun to have an old Mopar. Like your car the picture makes it look much nicer than it is.
    1 point
  13. I can't remember if the head was shaved. I wasn't under the impression that because I bored the cylinders .030 over, that I was now going to enter it in the Indianapolis 500! I was just cleaning up damage from broken rings and general wear. I did put in .030 over pistons and rings. Can't wait to get it running.
    1 point
  14. Oh boy, here we go again with is it a fluid drive or standard or semi automatic. Is there a script on the dashboard, the trunklid or the rear bumper that says gyro matic? Is there any thing in those same places that says fluid drive? Being it is a Meadowbrook which was the entry level model I'm going to guess it's fluid drive with a three speed. As such the gear locations are as noted in the earlier response. Simple test for fluid drive. Put the front bumper against a stout tree or retaining wall or similar immovable object, put the car in high gear. Slowly let out the clutch. If the engine stalls it a dry clutch, if the engine continues to idle it's fluid drive. Learning curve will continue when system is identified. Or if you have parked it on a slight grade with it in gear and not applied the emergency brake, has it ever wandered a bit down hill. Not trying to be a wise ass but there is a lot of misinformation and misunderstandings regarding these various drive trains. Go to allpar.com, use the search function and use key word fluid drive. Read, read read, then search key word semi automatic and read that stuff too. Class will resume tommorow.
    1 point
  15. I have done a lot of work on the sixes and I have done work on my friends 1946 Town & Country L8. In fact I was the one who climbed into the engine bay and got the head off and then spent a couple of hours with a hand grinder with a wire wheel on it cleaning all the carbon off of the valves, the deck and the pistons. I would take my time and pull the oil pan. Then I would pop off the rod caps and with a block of wood, assuming you have cleaned the cylinders as good as you can from the top and after removing the ridge with a ridge reamer...pop the pistons out. With the rust showing, I would suspect that the rings may be rusted and will not move in and out of the piston slots as they should. If the ridge was not too great, then I would go hunting on ebay and see if you can find some of the Chrysler special ring sets for "worn" engines. It is in the mater parts book. I have used these in the past and they do work. They are special sets with special wave springs that go behind the rings to make up for tapper and wear. You can clean the valves on a wire wheel and use some good old valve past with the wood tool with suction cups to re-seat them. Assuming you take your time and clean up the cylinder walls, the pistons with new rings and the valves you could come out with basically a solid engine that will run strong for years. The key it to take your time and do not me in a hurry. So what if it takes a couple of months or more. One thing I would different than some is when it is time to fire it up get something thin like 10W to start the engine with. It will flow into spaces that may be partially plugged. I would also put in a pint of kerosene in with it. That will help get the crud out of the oil galleries. Do not drive it or load the engine in gear during this part. Run the engine for like and hour at about 1000 RPM. Then dump that oil and do it again for another hour. Then dump that and out in some straight 30 weight. Then try driving it. I assume you will flush the fuel lines, check all the other fluids, and the like. I think you have a great car and if you watch the details and take your time, you will be quite happy with it. I drive a long wheelbase Desoto every day. Man how I wish they would have given Desoto the L8 for that car! When I drive my friends T&C I can sure feel the difference. Best, James.
    1 point
  16. All the way up and towards you is reverse, all the way down and toward you is first. All the way up and away from you is second, all the way down and away from you is third Assuming a standard three speed column shifted transmission.
    1 point
  17. Here are some "through-floor" photos of the body and rocker supports at the driver's front door of my 1947 D25 (same as P15). Third photo is passenger side. These might be helpful, particularly the last one looking forward from underneath, driver's side.
    1 point
  18. Scrape and clean as much of the loose stuff that you can. Clean it with the cleaner of your choice and rinse it thoroughly. Blow it out with compressed air, make sure it's dry. Brush some por15 in there, you'll be golden. Make sure the paint doesn't run out of any seams or holes at the bottom of the door. Por15 is no joke, can be messy. Wear good gloves and a respirator too. That really isn't bad though, I've worked on much worse.
    1 point
  19. Normal paint just doesn't stick to rust. In fact,rust seems to eat it like a snack. For that,you will need something like POR-15.
    1 point
  20. I'm starting to think you need to send a check to the guy you bought this car from. You are just having WAAAY too much fun for whatever you paid him for it.
    1 point
  21. https://dcmclassics.com/home/612-i-180-door-and-window-handle-lock-pins.html also at 14x price https://www.ebay.com/itm/1947-1948-1949-1950-1951-1952-1953-1954-DESOTO-DOOR-HANDLE-WINDOW-CRANK-PINS-/323417125903 Somewhere recently someone was asking about the spacer around the horn button and had to make their own ... but I can’t find that reference . this site cbodies.com has a lot of great nos parts. http://www.cbodies.com/proddetail.php?prod=7226-BRT86 http://www.cbodies.com/prodimages/large/7226-BRT86-1.jpg Enlarge 1953 Chrysler and Imperial felt spacers that fit in steering wheel center, good used condition, package of 2 pieces
    1 point
  22. The increase in cu. In. By it self should have a small hp gain but it would be so small you wouldn't feel it in the seat of the pants. You are probably close but it wouldn't be a 1:1 or a linear scale. As Chrysler 1941 stated, there will be a compression ratio change but to confirm the CR change, you'd also need to figure in the difference in head gaskets from the old gasket to the new and if the head was milled, even enough to clean it up. Then you'd need to figure in the new piston compression height if it's different from the old pistons.
    1 point
  23. I had mine repaired at Auto Instruments Martinsville Va. $205.00 + 30.75 shipping.
    1 point
  24. You also increased your compression. Now calculate that. Original head bore size and larger cylinder bores will produce a squeeze effect. I hope my English is understandable ?
    1 point
  25. I've never seen any body documentation from Briggs. They must be out there somewhere. Unlike Fisher, they printed catalogs each year for there GM line. Here's an example.
    1 point
  26. Enjoy the catalog that lists all of the various MoPar Home and Automotive Cleaning products Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  27. I wouldn’t use rattle can primer on a bet.........for many years I have rolled or brushed on epoxy primer with great results, I mean you are going to sand it anyway. Better coverage and less waste.
    1 point
  28. Dennis Bickford in New Mexico repairs/repaired the Town and Country flipper handles..1941 -50. I don't have his info anymore. He sells parts and some services for the T&C cars. He might have the handle parts too possibly.
    1 point
  29. 4-16: Out cruising with my daughter. Stopped at Kwik Trip for snacks. Heater on low. Meadowbrook running mighty fine ?
    1 point
  30. Here is the Oil filter catalog. rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  31. Thnaks for the updates from the members that are looking at the catalogs. I am always search for original catalogs that can provide information abut our older cars. This is how I learn from these catalogs. A friend has a 38 DeSoto and when i looked at the Oil Filter catalog i saw his original style canister so I learned something again today. You can never stop learning. Rich Hartung
    1 point
  32. 4-16: At Papa Murphy's... pizza and Pepsi for "rum and Pepsi" since I'll never drink Coke again ?
    1 point
  33. Lat pages of the same catalog: Enjoy the flashback to the 1940's Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com All of the catalogs have been scanned and saved digitally so that I can look at them and not ruin the paper copies.
    1 point
  34. Yes mine had these. Swapped them out with the luxury package with flippers and chrome indicator arm. Escutcheon are very rare. They look like other MoPars but are flatter.
    1 point
  35. I think 205 or 215 would make it a bit easier to steer. As stated just turn steering wheel when moving slightly.
    1 point
  36. I am working on tail lights now .
    1 point
  37. MoPar rear axle housings make great mail box stands...
    1 point
  38. 1 point
  39. Is that grinding going into first or reverse? Those aren’t synchronized. You should be at a stop to shift into those and maybe a little delay after depressing the clutch pedal to allow the gears to stop moving. Second and third are synchronized so any grinding there indicates a problem. For what it’s worth, 1935 is the first year for synchros for Plymouth.
    1 point
  40. Hi. I have a 50 Meadowbrook too and my fluid drive functions as yours except that the engine vibrates and does not sound happy if I use it as you describe. How does your car feel ?
    1 point
  41. Here's a shot of the keys I've wanted to post.
    1 point
  42. A good part of the fun of keeping an old car on the road is the stories, finding old pictures, and small things associated with the car. Those keys are really nice, I have the extra set that the original owner never used for my 1976 Wartburg. The finish on your Dodge says to me, "Hey, I'm still here doing my job, better than most.".
    1 point
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