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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/14/2021 in all areas

  1. lets go the other way.....this used to be a vintage coffee table....
    4 points
  2. 3 points
  3. I just wanted to remind us Old Mopar Flat head Owners specialty Tools can be made on the Cheap for Tuning the Engine. Here is a C-435 Top Dead Center Tool I made for @ $27, and a Vacuum Advance Tool for the Carburetor to check for the correct washer thickness for the Vacuum Advance System. I bought everything at Horror Freight and a Mom and Pop Hardware Store for both. LOL. I saw a Post earlier for some guys that made Brake Adjustment Tools. Great work!
    2 points
  4. Now, it's important, when fabricating an over-center spring gauge, to exercise the utmost care and precision. Try not to get the Elmer's glue on your fingers. Foamboard. it worked. x
    2 points
  5. Sorry I couldn't make but I did get a trophy! Thank you ! ?
    2 points
  6. Also saved a 1950 Desoto nose from the crusher.
    2 points
  7. Now I know I'll probably get scolded for a topic already covered, but the search engine here is pretty useless. No matter which way I worded my search I got completely unrelated topics here. I get better links to related topics on here from Google. Anyways the manual calls for SAE 10W oil for the transmission. But is that motor oil or general purpose SAE 10W oil? I couldn't find any 10W motor oil at the auto parts stores. SAE 10W oil is pretty much crystal clear and the label says it's for low pressure hydraulic systems, or compressors. Is that the stuff to use? I've heard some guys use auto trans fluid. I have a drip on the bottom of my trans which led me to check the level and sure enough it's low. The drip looks reddish so maybe there is trans fluid in it now. I'll drain what is in there and start with fresh oil, once I know what to use. btw, I have a fluid drive. The other question is, it seems like the square plug on the side of the trans is the fill level and that plug is referred to as the fill plug. So I'm guessing you run a tube in there from a funnel and keep going until it starts to come back out. So my question is what is the large plug ( 1 1/8" ) just behind the trans solenoid? I took it out and there is a long heavy spring under that plug that is under tension when the plug is in tight. I mean it would make sense to fill from there.
    1 point
  8. After fighting with my brakes for too long I opted to try my hand at making a tool. I found two rusted drums and removed the center hubs. I had a "arm" welded on to mount a dial indicator. I installed the drum and adjusted the minor adjustment untill brakes drag. I then removed drum and used dial indicator to locate highest point. I then adjusted brakes to that high point. I sure hope it works this time!! I am not opposed to purchasing the correct tool. I just cannot locate one!!
    1 point
  9. A friend of mine several yrs ago was tubing dn the N. Sacramento River and saw wrecks holding up the banks. He rescued this emblem off the rusty remains in the levee. He made a paper weight of it and gave it to me. Anybody know what year it would be? Also, in the Redding, CA. Craig’s L there is an old Plymouth emblem for sale. What year is that one?
    1 point
  10. I have not used this, but I hear it is great stuff... Mouse Milk
    1 point
  11. Nice work Gents. Making specialty tools is fun, and rather inexpensive I might add. Indeed.
    1 point
  12. I made one for $17. I got the Steel Stock from Lowe's 1/8" Thick. Cut it with my neighbors Jig Saw with Metal Blades (I broke a blade and bought a new pack of 5 for $6. My son took it to work at his Dealership and heated it to bend it with Oxy-acetylene and bent it correctly. I painted it with Silver Paint and Red Letters. (Shown below is a Camber Wrench C-611 I snagged on ebay for $11 2 years ago. Great tool to make. Cheap too!
    1 point
  13. My first OD trans for the '47 Desoto I purchased from George Asche. I would not use him again. After I took apart the transmission and replaced all the parts that were worn beyond specifications, and made sure the inside of the case in all it little nooks and crannies were actually cleaned of gunk, it has worked great for 15 or more years. I also have a spare. What I found is that a LOT of the internal parts on these are worn to the point where they will work, but how well over time if driven a lot is an open question. These are not hard to rebuild as long as you get all the books (I have them electronically) and take your time. If a part looks worn or measures out worn then replace it. Sure you will spend a couple of months and about $2K to $4k in parts by the time you are done, but you end up with a basically as new transmission that will live a lifetime if you keep the oil changed. Do not pay more than $500 to $700 for a core no matter what the seller tells you. Unless he has photos and receipts for internal replacement parts. Like I said in the opening, I learned the hard way. Once you source one from a 1946 to late 1950's MOPAR the things that make it work on a Fluid Drive Chrysler or Desoto are as follows: 1. You need the input shaft from a fluid drive 3-speed transmission not a M5/M6 Semi-auto transmission. 2. You will need to double check the output housing to get one that can take the BAND and not the drum style parking brake. 3. You will of course need the electronic parts. The booklets go over that well. 4. You will have to cut the drive shaft for the difference in length. A couple of specific points. The second gear comes in two versions. For a lighter car the so-called fast second gear is not a bad choice. For a heavy car however, use the regular second gear. I would also use the regular second gear when using a fluid coupling. You can go find my threads on that. The Borg-Warner OD main shaft is very hard to find NOS. The problem is that the second gear rides on the shaft and the back end of it "pushes" against a step on the shaft. That is at the flutes. What happens is the shaft wears. I had a situation were even with an NOS second gear and the largest snap ring there was still too much end play to be within the specifications. What I did was take this NOS second gear to an Industrial hard chrome shop. They build up the back thrust side of the second gear to my specifications. When done the second gear end play was at the very bottom of the specification range. The second gear has been VERY quiet for 15 years. Just this last year I found a NOS 3-speed (BW) main-shaft. It cost me a couple of hundred but that is the same I had to pay to plate the second gear. I am going to be rebuilding my spare to as new condition and crating it. If I ever have a problem on cross country retirement trips...it will be ready to go. James.
    1 point
  14. The name is familiar and I know the barn. I bailed hay and shoveled cow s**t at Bristol Farms, just south of C and west of 45. When I 18. most of my carousing was between Trevor and Twin Lakes and then around Kenosha. Tossed out of the Brat Stop for breaking a guys nose when he grabbed my wife's behind. And yes, that place was on old 41 between 173 and Russell. As I am now located in SW Kane County in Illannoy, other than going up to Kenosha to see my mother in law, who I like, I'm rarely out that way.
    1 point
  15. Look at a 1975 vintage straight six - like a chevy or Ford 230 or a mopar slant 225 powered car. Go to rock auto or other and look up the size and type catalytic converter those used, that should get you there. I know for certain chrysler products did not use an air pump in the US outside of California. They had a few vacuum gizmos on the distributor to change the vacuum advance and an EGR valve but none of those would affect the Cat and its effectiveness. I suspect as others have said; a razor sharp tune should clean up the exhaust, set the dist at about 5 BTDC, and adjust the valves. Additionally use a stronger spark ignition, like an electronic distributor retrofit and use a Ford EEC IV coil. Lots of spark energy ! GM did this too, to help clean up their exhaust emissions in the mid 70's.
    1 point
  16. Any oil thicker than 10W will cause slower down shifting. Idle speed must be close to 450-500. Governor points must be wiped clean of oil too. Over the past I have always bought by the case what local 10W oil was available. Never an issue.
    1 point
  17. Interesting about the grades,,,, When I was looking at all the selections available at NAPA. I thought ok, so why not go with 5W20. It might balance out to 10W in a laymens way of thinking.
    1 point
  18. You need to up your game to get those nuts loose. Trade that WD40 for liquid wrench, PB blaster, or one of the other penetrating sprays.
    1 point
  19. I have found that the length of the solenoid arm\plunger effects when the starter engages. In your case the arm many be too long and when you step on the starter pedal, the starter spins before the yoke fully engages the starter gear teeth on the flywheel. Make sure everything is clean and slightly lubricated. I have a bunch of old starters and it is amazing the difference in the lengths of the solenoid plunger.
    1 point
  20. 4-14: Heading out for work. A chilly 32F. Heater cranked! Last night I took a look at the linkage on my carburetor. Good thing I did because the nut was loose. Note to self: put a lock washer on there...
    1 point
  21. Old wheel balancer,a wheel and a round piece of glass. Thought of selling balancer, but it does come in handy occasionally.
    1 point
  22. Found this great quote from @James_Douglas -- https://p15-d24.com/topic/40078-of-mopar-flathead-reliability/page/4/?tab=comments#comment-424881 > I removed the M5 trans and keeping the fluid coupling and added the 3-speed with Borg-Warner OD. What's exciting is how James Douglas uses his for long distance trips, and has great reliability. Also from @55 Fargo with the Chrysler 8 1/4 diff that has the 3.23 rear end. His trans has even higher gearing than the M5, but his videos show nice smooth power. https://p15-d24.com/blogs/entry/125-a833-overdrive-trans-conversion/?tab=comments#comment-722 Seems Both an OD and low rear diff gearing is possible just need to either swap the trans that has the OD already, swap the rear differential, or find substitute gears somewhere for rear diff @James_Douglas Do you have any more info on your 3-speed OD swap coupled to the fluid drive? Which specific trans did you swap in? Do you know what it came from, and did you have to mod your suburban shift linkage from column to floor shift?
    1 point
  23. Repeat after me “maudit google tabarnac” The T word is a universal expression when things go awry used widely here. PS you would not want anybody learning French using my said vocabulary.
    1 point
  24. Excuse my google French.....lol!
    1 point
  25. How much does that 413 six cylinder engine weigh? In ounces....18,720 oz's In lbs..............1,170 Lbs
    1 point
  26. MoPar rear axle housings make great mail box stands...
    1 point
  27. Could also mean burnin sex lubricant Frank....no shizzle hahahahlol...depends!
    1 point
  28. Tailboard meetings are a necessity. ?
    1 point
  29. Hi, I know this place, my Plymouth 39 is here for some stuff but they made electric steering http://www.fitzbackgarage.com/Electric-Power-Steering
    1 point
  30. I made an identical spindle set-up for the rear!
    1 point
  31. Nick, Congratulations on the progress on your car so far. Nice work! The trick that I have used in the past to install hood springs is this: Get a BUNCH of thick washers and insert them, one each in between the coils of the spring until the spring has been lengthened enough to install. After the spring is in place, pull down on the hood to put tension on the spring and release all of the washers. Now this is VERY important...make sure you loop a piece of string or wire through all of the washers, and tie the ends together. This will keep all of the washers from flying off into all directions after you release the spring tension. Take a look at the picture, it will give you an idea of how this method works. Good luck!
    1 point
  32. 4-13: Here's the license plate that I originally wanted to use. But it has all numbers, and the state doesn't allow that. Minnesota requires at least one letter for the year of manufacture plate. Needed a little change so I put the plate on. Not even worried about the cops ?
    1 point
  33. I know of a 40 convertible in Thetford Mines northern QC. I wish it was in the budget! You have some boss rides there man!
    1 point
  34. Like other places, pre war enthusiasts are few and generally consist of mature men ? Most popular US cars are the winged monsters, muscle cars and Ford traditionall hot rods. Mine is a LaSalle but I called a Cadillac in non LaSalle forums. Unlike you, who obviously are a learned person, very few know what it is, and explanation takes too long ?
    1 point
  35. Tim & Stephanie, 2021 another great event! It was good to see everyone, (at least once a year). I realize how much work, effort and cost there is in putting on an event like this. I cant wait to see that Hemi in the flying brick! We have to work on getting that fork lift running.
    1 point
  36. Nice job. Thanks for posting. I made one of a different design but used it the way you describe. Kind of fussy to get the adjustments right but it seems to do OK. A worthwhile improvement would be a brace to reduce/eliminate the tendency of the arm to flex.
    1 point
  37. Tim & Stephanie, 2021 another great event! It was good to see everyone, (at least once a year). I realize how much work, effort and cost there is in putting on an event like this. I cant wait to see that Hemi in the flying brick! We have to work on getting that fork lift running.
    1 point
  38. Either you are a genius or I'm stupid, or maybe both are true! I did what you said above and it fits perfectly! Thanks so much! Marc.
    1 point
  39. The above trans was sold on ebay several years ago. That trans is an odd ball for sure. It is an M6...1949 and later. As for no OD's used on the 1946-48 Chrysler's? My guess is the M5 trans with a OD added on probably have been too costly, also too long to fit in the convertible "X" member cars, and maybe they thought they wanted to do away with the mid to late 30's era of Chrysler overdrives....simplify higher speed operation of the "New" 1946-48 Chrysler. This being accomplished with high speed rear end gear ratio's. Windsor's 3.54 Saratoga, New Yorker 3.36 Crown Imperial 3.58 All just a guess. .....I know especially the eight cylinder cars easily drive 70 smoothly and quietly all day long. The six cylinder Chrysler cars have no issue at 60...though there is some fan noise...not nearly as much as say a Plymouth or Dodge with lower ratio rear ends.
    1 point
  40. http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/016/Page01.htm
    1 point
  41. Ok, I have had one of just about every type and class of car built between 1927 and 1971. Sondra and I purchased and drove our '47 Desoto Suburban back from Sandpoint, ID to San Francisco some 13 years ago. The speedometer cable broke on trip and nothing else. About 2004 I rebuilt the engine very well. Some of the old timers around here may remember the attention to detail I did on that rebuild. I removed the M5 trans and keeping the fluid coupling and added the 3-speed with Borg-Warner OD. I rebuilt the king pins, new tie rods, new wheel bearings and brakes. I run a 6 volt alternator and I made a front disc brake conversion for it. I drive this car around the hills, stop signs, and traffic lights in San Francisco. I take the car 100 miles away to our place in the country at least one a month doing 65-70 all the way. I load the car up with 6 or 8 people on a regular basis. Over the last 10 years the only reliability issues I have had was with carburetor or vacuum advance. I drive it about twice a week. Starts up fine. It has never left me stranded on the road. I would think nothing of jumping in and driving to the Atlantic is the need arose.
    1 point
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