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  1. 1942 is really low production year. And yes, Business coupes are pretty rare. Personally I like original stuff, my vote would be to do your best to restore it and enjoy it.
    5 points
  2. In England parts can be pretty difficult to get hold of unless you’re willing to part with wads of cash in shipping and duty charges. Having said that I’ve done alright from people shipping vehicles to our shores with a plan to rip out the running gear to go sbc 350/350 etc. When that happens I’ve always made myself available to relieve people of unwanted parts and stopped a lot going to the scrap yard. Something I did ship over that took years of watching and waiting and failing with bids in eBay was a period correct radiator cap for my 30 Chrysler Coupe. Consistently beaten as I wouldn’t go over $225, eventually after about 7 years or so I got lucky.
    3 points
  3. Fab'd up a heater shroud for the fresh air system, figured I'd never find the correct one. Used 1-1/4" flat stock, formed a box and two side brackets. Attached the brackets to the box. Painted it up and added a trim of self adhesive Velcro® A couple of photos of the shroud installed. I made the Velcro® trim seal about 1/4" too long so it would compress tightly to the heater core area.
    2 points
  4. All of the wheel cylinders should have bleeders. Did you bleed the master cylinder first? Bleeding the brakes can be finicky because of the master cylinder being below the wheel cylinders. I highly recommend replacing all of the lines both metal and rubber. Nickel copper line is easy to work with and lasts a long time. If you twisted the end off a line I’d suspect all of them. Remember it’s a single reservoir master. Any leak and you lose brakes.
    2 points
  5. As already mentioned ....use the shop manual instructions to do it right.
    2 points
  6. I had a local glass company come over to install the the rear window and windshield in my '51 Dodge D39 business coupe project because the manager liked working on the old cars and was knowledgeable. I had new gaskets and locking strips from Steele Rubber for both windows. He initially sent a couple of goons over who started with the rear window and were unable to install it. I told them they were not doing it like the shop manual said but they figured they knew better. They didn't and I am thankful they didn't break the back window, the only curved glass in the car. Next day the manager came over with the two goons and I gave him the shop manual. He read it and five minutes later, after following instructions, the rear window with stainless trim was in the car and buttoned down. He didn't take much longer to do the windshield, again following instructions. Get a shop manual or follow the instructions from the Imperial Club mentioned above. No one knows better than the factory how to install glass.
    2 points
  7. I did full service at the local Shell station for about a whole month in 1971. I think the owner was bipolar; great guy one minute, throwing wrenches and threatening bodily harm the next. He fired me because I had the audacity to take time off to attend my grandfathers' funeral during the busy Memorial Day weekend. Since he wasn't the only game in town, my folks and several of their friends started going to the Standard station. When he asked my Dad why he quit coming to the Shell station, Dad asked what he expected when he fired me because of my grandfathers' funeral. I was with Dad at the time and the old boss asked if I wanted to come back. Told him "Hell, no. I got a job with less drama and more money." It was baling hay and shoveling cow s**t, but I wasn't telling him that.
    1 point
  8. Here's another from Tahoe that I just came across. How 'bout a boat with the name "Yeah, it's got a Hemi"?
    1 point
  9. That’s a 1965 Sears 250 come from puch out of Austria
    1 point
  10. I was wondering myself but I can't figure out that big round thing. Only pre 60's Brit bike I ever owned was a '56 BSA Road Rocket.
    1 point
  11. You have to carefully pull the rocker molding off to access the front stone shield screw.
    1 point
  12. I'm 100% with T120 on this. Everyone has their idea of the perfect car; it's up to you to proceed in your own direction. Looks like a nice one and as others state, 1942 is a rare year.
    1 point
  13. Goathead, Welcome to the forum. You have acquired a very desirable car. How ever you decide to proceed on your build is up to you. Hope you will followup with photos as it progresses. ?
    1 point
  14. By the Way Happy Birthday Walter Percy Chrysler!!!!! Born April 2, 1875. If it weren't for him, we wouldn't be on this site today. I am going to get a Cake and celebrate with my mechanic buddies today after supper. Great FUN!
    1 point
  15. Typically RF noise suppression. Usually to keep the hot wire from [picking up stray interference that might induce odd behavior in the part being fed. Not something I see in automotive wiring before computers.
    1 point
  16. Maybe it's an early version of coax cable - prevent radio static.
    1 point
  17. Public Service Announcement: Costco has weather tech all vehicle floor mats in stock (at least the one near us does). These are designed to be trimmed to just about ant size and fit the P-15. $25 for a set of four mats.
    1 point
  18. Ok you found your answer inthe repair manual. Great that you have a repair manual. But what was the answer to your question. This is the time to pass on knowledge learned. Someone else could have the same question but if you have the answer pass it along to everyone else. We all enjoy learning especially anything about these old cars. Rich Hartung desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  19. I agree with Mark D. All 1942 cars were or little production numbers becasue of the war. You state that you want to put a Hemi with overdrive in the car that you also state it basically all original. Just with your statement and plese take what I am saying as not a smart ass reply, but since you are modifying the engine with a Hemi I feel that you have already made the decision to make it a Hot Rod. What are your and i state your plans for the car? These old cars can run at 50-60 mph all dayong. Yes you are not going tobe going down the road at 70+ mph like a modern car. Also with the older style drum brakes and original suspension they are not setup to stop and handle like a modern car. So trying to stop a 1942 car with standard 10-11 inch brake drums is not an instantaneous stop like you can get with disk brakes. There is a special enjoyment of sitting back and crusing in an older car and you get to enjoy the car and see the scenery and just just wiz by it a 70 mph. Our society has now all turned to be in a hurry to get some place and a hurry to get back. If the car was a diamond in the rough then I would make it a hotrod but since it is an original keep it that way. People do not get to see many 1942 cars and if original it is even more impressive. Just my thoughts but take your time to make your own decision about the car. remember it is your car and your money so do what ever makes You happy and not everyone else. I listed my reasons to keep it original as you asked for input. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  20. Like most all things, there is a following, you don't have to agree or understand it. The annual Cushman Club or whatever it is they call themselves is going on now. They have been in the area some 4 days now. Heard a dreaded drone coming down the street and in front was a guide on vehicle and about 11 of these obnoxious scoots going by followed by a clean up truck (towing trailer to collected failed units) Yesterday one was on the road without the power to proceed at speed, struggling against a short and less than steep grade with cars strung out behind him. This borders being a nuisance and a danger in my opinion. If I am towing something at lower speed I will pull over many times and lets cars go around me...it is only considerate and safer for the public as many will try to pass in otherwise less than favorable conditions. Give me my mini bike....almost the same thing....but best part is not allowed on the highway like these slugs. Going back to my first statement, I understand the attraction, I disagree on its highway use. My soap box topic for the day....!!
    1 point
  21. You can be slow and be safe. Sticking to roads with less traffic, periodic pull offs to allow others to pass, ensuring your machine is road ready, etc... And granted not every scenario is going to allow you to be ideal - but when a whole lot of improperly prepared people gather and make decisions it can make a mess. Some of my closest calls have happened when I was operating farm equipment on the road ways.... so I do understand that sometimes you just have to be slow and in the way.... safety on the road is everyone's responsibility.
    1 point
  22. Sal Mineo would have survived in Rebel without a cause if it wasn't for that noisy cushman..... just say'n ?
    1 point
  23. Just bought this and I wondering what to do with it...
    1 point
  24. After looking at harnesses unlimited schematic for the 48 DeSoto, it didn't look accurate. It had eight cylinders and an alternator instead of a generator. And lines are so close together, it made my eyes tired. I think I much prefer the original shop manual diagrams.
    1 point
  25. It looks as if these Dodges could be purchased either plain or fancy. It would seem from the build sheet there were very few options on this one. Perhaps it had only one sunvisor--on the driver's side.......perhaps a horn ring in addition to the center cap of the horn. It listed standard wheels having 7:10x15 Goodyear tires. There were things on the build sheet like stone shields, glove box lock, glove box light which did not appear to be included. Probably would have had the small "dog dish" hubcaps. Color was Blue #505. At the first of the accessory line were spaces marked 1 through 8 under accessory groups. I suppose those may have been groups designated by the factory....but none appear to be marked. So is this a very "plain jane" sort of car with very few accessories......maybe no radio or heater??? Some pictures would be nice to show what the car and it's accessories looked like. I had to enlarge the build sheet and then rotate it to better read what it said......another automotive mystery.
    1 point
  26. 4-1: Just returned from a cruise with the kids. 2nd gear Fluid Drive from stoplights was again popular. Had to come home because the car lulled everyone into a sleepy daze ? Sure was fun!
    1 point
  27. 40 years ago I replaced the steering box on a restored 1934 DR Dodge 7 passenger sedan with a Oz GM Holden steering box.......back in the mid 1970's here in Australia no one knew where to find NOS steering box parts let alone know if they were indeed available even..............as this car still had the original running gear it had the floor shifter so there were no column linkages etc to make the job more complicated..........so essentially what was done was to remove the complete steering box & column, then mount the Holden steering box in where the original lived( the pitman shaft spline was identical in both steering boxes making the job much easier).............the column was measured and the inner shaft was cut and a steering column rag joint or vibration dampener from the Holden attached to the Holden steering box...........the shaft was modified to fit the top of the vibration dampener and a sealed bearing was installed inside the lower end of the column tube and the shaft ran thru it...................a sleeve was made to locate the sealed bearing from moving up or down on shaft and in the column tube and a lower locating plate made to firmly attach the outer column to the firewall.............basically this was a straightforward installation but as it was probably closer to 45 yrs ago my memory may have missed a few things, but I know that this car was continued to be shown at various Chrysler Restorers Club events at least till a few years ago and AFAIK still has the Holden steering box installed..........whilst its obviously different to whats been the subject of this thread the ideas the same although it does seem that the original steering box will still be used, the electric unit actually appears to just supply the "power" to turn the steering box more easily..............regards from Oz.............andyd
    1 point
  28. so everyone has to exercise patience while these guys cause accidents and what not.....problem with the world today...to many ME people....how about exercising some common sense...these dang seniors have been along long enough to know better, before senility set in they were expressing the same concerns as I....I would bust them for impeding the flow of traffic and creating a nuisance in general...if stupidity was against the law, I'd write that on the ticket also....?
    1 point
  29. However you get it out of the car, it is indeed easier to work on the whole assembly on your bench. The steering shaft is not inseparable from the steering box (housing), regardless of what you were told. And it is not hard to either remove or install it, just takes some doing. Pull the pitman arm off, because the sector shaft to which the pitman arm is attached has to be removed through the top of the housing, and the sector shaft has to be removed before the steering shaft will come out. Remove the sector shaft adjusting screw lock nut, and lock washer, those will be in the middle of the top cover. Remove the top cover. You can now remove the sector shaft out through the top of the housing. Remove the bottom cover. It has a tube attached to it that runs up into the steering shaft. That is to keep the lubricant in the housing. There will be a spring, an oil seal, a thrust bearing cup (I was taught it is a "bearing race"), and the bearing that will come out with it. The steering worm gear and shaft (one unit) will then come out the bottom of the housing. This is interesting, kindly keep us informed on how you get this electric PS installed. Unknown what you have to do to the steering shaft, but if you have to weld something on to it that increases it's effective diameter, it should not be removed from the steering housing, as you'll never get it back in if you do. There is not much wiggle room, measure where needed.
    1 point
  30. 4-1: Warming up for work. Heat on full blast; 20F ?
    1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. That's a real clean looking set of stainless grille parts. 1939 is the only year for the "V" pattern. 40-47 had the "Plus" pattern. Kinda valuable in some circles of the internet. examples: 1939 Gille Stainless Ebay 1939 Grille nose piece 48D
    1 point
  33. Been very slow, 6 coats of linseed & turpentine mix and still getting dry spots. Thought I’d post another progress picture although not finished.
    1 point
  34. Found the correct mounting bracket for my oil filter, cleaned up and painted. Came with a filter I do not need, but cheaper than a NOS one on EBay. Some foam tape and ready to install.
    1 point
  35. twist them in, crank them down and let the big dog eat............!!!!!!!!
    1 point
  36. Sometimes a piles of bricks is just a pile of bricks, I just can’t see why you are worried about teeny tiny minutiae like that .....thread your plugs in and just let it go.
    1 point
  37. My answer to your question is, no, there will not be any issues using gaskets from a different manufacturer than the plugs you are using. More than likely, the sparkplug manufacturer did not make the gaskets that are included with their plugs anyway, subbed out with the company's specs. I've bought packaged sets with two different kinds of gaskets a few times. My learning about sparkplug gaskets is simply that if the plug comes with a gasket, a gasket should be used, not that you have to use a particular one. As long as your previously used gasket(s) can still seal the plug with a good ground, you'll be OK. The folks I've noticed that have issues with their plug gaskets are the ones that gorilla-torque their plugs.
    1 point
  38. You and every other DIYer ever. At the race tracks that happens hundreds of times a day
    1 point
  39. Just spitballing here so take it with a grain of salt. Copper is a real good conductor of both heat and electricity. Which is probably why they were first copper gaskets. But as time moved on and costs became more important they found that the later style plated gaskets worked. I don;t think it matters which manufacturer or material you use. But if the price to you is ok go with what makes you comfortable. Myself? I just buy new plugs so that's where I am coming from.
    1 point
  40. .....the Speedometer housing was also painted way back when. Speedometer, reset to 000000 Assembled Speedometer. Not a gauge, but since I am at it.
    1 point
  41. And here’s the info Greg mentions above Email me and I can send printable PDF copies to anyone that needs them. Mark@rdusaclassics.com
    1 point
  42. If you have signed up for this year's event in the Finger Lakes Region of NY, please watch your email. Lodging choices, there are currently three sites with room blocks, and proposed itenerary should be out shortly. We are currently formulating the registration fee so your response will help us solidify numbers and per each charges for the Friday dinner meal. This year we will be doing fewer parade miles and each day will have time after our lunch stops for you to explore the area, see the sights, try the wines and brews and as my mother used to say "go outside and blow the stink off you." Hope to hear from you soon. As of this morning we have 14 parties who are pretty solidly committed. Come on out!
    1 point
  43. have your cat positioned behind the car so they can catch the mice you blow out.......
    1 point
  44. The bracket primarily bolts to what used to be the transmission mount at the bottom. I also made a bracket that bolts to the transmission between the main space and the tail shaft housing. There are probably lots of ways to do this but this is what I came up with. Bob
    1 point
  45. I have kept all my original parts intact in case I ever want to go back to original. All of the mods that I have done are reversible. That said, I came up with a scrap transmission and used the shifter from that and welded it to the T5 stub. For the master cylinder, I am using a Dual master cylinder from a 97-2006 Jeep wrangler. I looked at a lot of master cylinders and this one was one of the few that would fit in the tight space. I made a plate to convert the three hole space to accept the two hole master cylinder.
    1 point
  46. There's nothing exotic with these engines. Basic breaker points ignition system troubleshooting would apply. One thing that will cause problems with a 6 volt system are undersized battery cables. If the cables are "off the shelf" modern battery cables they are likely way too small and don't carry enough current to satisfy the needs of the starter motor. This can cause enough of a voltage drop to your ignition system to reduce it's function. Be sure you have 0 gauge, or larger, cables and a fully charged battery. Then recheck the ignition system for proper function and timing. Then, if you have spark at the spark plugs you also need compression and fuel. Have you done a compression test on the engine? These engines have a tendency to get sticky valves after long periods of inactivity. If the valves are hanging open you can't get compression. And finally, what is the condition of the carburetor? Getting gas spray from the accelerator pump when you move the throttle linkage? Have you tried opening the throttle a bit when trying to start it? Sometimes the idle circuit gets plugged up and won't supply enough fuel for proper idle.
    1 point
  47. I have a 36 pickup and I moved the crossmember aft by about 7 inches and I re-located the hole to match the transmission. Of course, that crossmember also is the front mount for the fuel tank so I also moved the fuel tank to behind the rear end.
    1 point
  48. A rusted out (cancer) area on the seat surround..... Cancer removed..... Replacement piece fabbed..... Welded in place..... Cleaned up...... Primered..... I keep saying, "I'm going to buy a wire feed welder", just never get to it.
    1 point
  49. AXLE--REAR Seal, Pinion, Differential: Mopar 1271105 Chicago Rawhide 18924 National 6017 COOLING Radiator Cap (2-11/16"): Mopar 776379 Stant 10232 NAPA 7031475 Radiator Cap (2-1/4"): Mopar 795519 Stant 10203 NAPA 7031400 Thermostat (180°F, ext.bypass): Mopar 1124989 Stant 13928 NAPA THM 155 Thermostat (180°F, int.bypass): Mopar 852780 Stant 13478 NAPA THM 191 Thermostat Gasket: Mopar 50082 NAPA THM 1040ST Water Pump (external and internal t-stat bypass) Gates 42554 NAPA TFW 42554 ENGINE Oil Filter* (sock type): Mopar 676575, 1504092 Wix 51011 NAPA 1011 Fleetguard LF505 Baldwin JC405 Oil Filter Cover Gasket (for Mopar 1265706 or 1503494 filter assembly): Mopar 685625 Wix 15480 Welch Plugs (1-5/8") Dorman 550-023 (steel) Dorman 560-023 (brass) Melling MEP-14B (brass) HOOD Bumper, Hood (B-1, B-2, COE): Mopar 846797, 985563 BK 6652262 Bumper, Hood (B-3, B-4): Mopar 995066 BK 6653122 UNIVERSAL JOINTS Universal Joint: Mopar 1321115 Precision 369 Universal Joint U-Bolt: Mopar 1122683 Spicer 2-94-28X Neapco 1-0089 Yukon YY-UB-002 Allstar ALL69015 SUSPENSION Shock Absorber* (front): 1243637, 1315411, 1311188 Monroe 31000 = Monroe 59001 = Monroe 32293 - Gabriel 81147 = Gabriel 82047 Shock Absorber (front): 1450066 [1-3/8"] -- Monroe 34904 - Monroe 37098 - Monroe 37112 - Gabriel 61500 - Gabriel G63689 Shock Absorber (rear): 1243639, 1326074, 1450060 Monroe 32207 = Monroe 59017 - Gabriel 81676 - Gabriel 82007 Shock Absorber (rear): 1450065 [1-3/8"] -- Monroe 555004 - Gabriel 61550 = Gabriel G63949 - Gabriel G63299 Shock Absorber (front & rear): 1321268, 1450059, 1450060 [1-3/8"] -- Monroe 66858 - Gabriel 82065 STEERING Seal, Shaft, Steering Gear: Mopar 1138282 National 240151 TRANSMISSION Seal, Pinion, Speedometer: Mopar 1134949 Honda 91204-HB3-004 Seal, Output Shaft: Mopar 600420 National 5737 National 1216N National 8160S SKF 15620 SKF 15729 SKF 15753 Timken 471827 CR 15620 NAPA NOS 15620 SKF Speedi-Sleeve for Output Yoke Chicago Rawhide 99157 Chicago Rawhide 99159 Seal, Output Shaft: Mopar 593596 National 450308 Chicago Rawhide 21210 WHEELS Lug Bolt, Left: Mopar 856981 BWP M-226 Lug Bolt, Right: Mopar 393984 BWP M-225 Lug Stud, Left: Mopar 913849 BWP M-1271 [requires heavy modification] Mopar 1273555 BWP M-93 Lug Stud, Right: Mopar 913848 BWP M-1172 [requires light modification], BWP M-1270 [requires heavy modification] Mopar 1273554 BWP M-92 Lug Nut, Left: Mopar 913813 BWP M-257, Dorman 611-059 Mopar 1273557 BWP M-249 Lug Nut, Right: Mopar 913812 BWP M-256, Dorman 611-053 Mopar 1273556 BWP M-248 Wheel Bearing, Front Inner Mopar 698395 Bower 14125A Wheel Bearing, Front Outer Mopar 698389 Bower 09074 Bearing Cup, Front Inner Mopar 698394 Bower 14276 Bearing Cup, Front Outer Mopar 698388 Bower 09194 Seal, Front Inner Mopar 668479 SKF 17145, National 5836 Cap, Front Wheel Grease Mopar 600183 NAPA 730-2409 BODY Windshield Wipers Anco 20-12 Trico 33-122 additional information - 1-ton stud/nut comparison additional information - Dodge Power Wagon Interchange additional information - Dodge Power Wagon Master Parts Interchange additional information - heater fan motor and flow control valve upgrades additional information - flathead alternative head bolts
    1 point
  50. Lol....who complains about such petty things....they should buy a Chevy LOL
    1 point
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