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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/29/2021 in all areas

  1. Hi Everyone - I am new to Plymouths in general and post war ones in particular. My dad was a Chrysler guy (and a WWII Navy machinist) and I have owned everything from Model Ts to MGs. I recently had a '47 Special Deluxe coupe follow me home, and I intend to bring her back to life as time and budget allow. Looking forward to all the information and wisdom I see available here.
    7 points
  2. May be poor practice but during the course of fine tuning fuel mixture by reading plugs I have reused the same gasket several times and never had a problem.
    4 points
  3. Could be he was just posting photos of his "new" car to show-off/bragg,and now he has that out of his system? I freely admit I lust after a find like that,and am excited that someone found and rescued it.
    2 points
  4. can't spoon feed everybody Greg...so many folks get a new toy...pop about here and there looking for info and did not leave a breadcrumb trail of their meanderings.
    2 points
  5. “Not sure what to do with it”...Uttered by so few here! Lol. I’d make it reliable, safe, and drive it. No shortage of help here if you ask.
    2 points
  6. Just bought this and I wondering what to do with it...
    1 point
  7. Look what just showed up....a matched pair with original bolts too
    1 point
  8. Well probably not the approved method but when I was in High School fifty some years ago I had a 54 Plymouth that had a bad crank. Without enough money or ability to fix it properly I would(when the knocking got bad or twice when it seized) jack it up, pull the pan, take off number five cap, push the piston out of the way, and then clean the journal best I could and replace the bearing. Put it back together and away I went until the next time. So, yeah you can, but will it be reliable and will you feel comfortable driving it. For me then, sure. Today, not a chance.
    1 point
  9. I have had good luck in the past from taking the parts numbers off the wheel cylinders in the car,and then doing a web search using those numbers as the key word. Did this for my 39 IHC pu when the cheapest ones I could find from the typical suspect antique parts dealers were $99 each,and these were "who knows how old NOS" items. I discovered the 53 and 54 Corvette used the same wheel cylinders,and bought all 4 new on Amazon for $4.99 each,including shipping.
    1 point
  10. I know Greg already said it, but it's worth repeating. I can't imagine getting by without 1) the shop manual 2) a Motors manual that covers the year of my car and 3) the parts manual. Gotta have 'em. All pretty cheap, on ebay. The parts manual will tell you what the name of every bit on your car is, so you can ask questions, and is fantastic for the times you take something apart, walk away for 3 days, and then have no idea how it goes back together. It has highly detailed exploded illustrations of nearly everything. Later on, a Hollander's part interchange book is good to have, for ebay parts hunting. I don't know how young you are, but until I was 16 or so, I broke more stuff than I fixed. Looking at a car's insides was overwhelming, until I learned to break it down into systems, and learned what each system did. The chapter sections in Motors does that nicely---carburetion, ignition, generator, starter, distributor, etc. The very first chapter on tune-up will teach you plenty. These service bulletin pamphlets are fantastic, some even have a filmstrip (caveman era learning tool) you can watch http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/index.htm Skip the real specific ones, and go right to general topics like carburetion, distributor, electric systems, etc. Finally, you might get something out of watching any of the "Will It Run" videos on coldwarmotors youtube channel. Stoned Canadians take cars that have been sitting for 50 or 60 years, and make them run, dealing with many of the same issues you are right now. One of the videos is a '40-ish Plymouth.
    1 point
  11. Yes, Chrysler cars used many military names during the WWII era. Dodge had Bombadier Blue, Seaplane Blue, Cadet Gray; Chrysler had Spitfire engines; etc. I like the interior on that car, partly original and part seat covers. I like it. I'm not sure why there was a Town Sedan or what the purpose of it was. Possibly some people did not want sucide doors, especially with children.
    1 point
  12. It is still 6v so that's good to know. The cables look proper sized, but 6v systems are fussy about current flow. The short cable from the battery to the solenoid is the primary connection for all your car's electric circuits. Loosen the nut take them off the terminal and clean everything up, put it back together and tighten the not nice and snug but don't over tighten.. D you have one of those simple circuit tester shown in the attached video? If not get one. You can use it to make sure you are getting power to the coil with IGN on. Then make yourself a jumper wire. Get a couple insulated alligator clips and attach them to each end of a 6 foot length of 12 gauge wire. If you want you can add an inline fuse holder with a 20 amp fuse. You can use this to power stuff directly from the battery to see if it works or you can hook it directly to the coil if you suspect your IGN switch isn't passing current. The clips will let you shut the ing circuit of by disconnecting from the battery. Before you try to start it you might want to run a compression test on all cylinders as these engines tend to get sticky valves from sitting in storage. Note. Some compression testers have over long threads where they screw into the spark plug holes so note how far you can screw it in by comparing the thread length of the plug. While you have the plugs out put some penetrating oil down the spark plug holes.. a real good penetrating lube is a 50 50 mix of auto trans fluid and acetone. Cheaper too. In the long run. Don't rush the process, yes it's exciting to get one of these old chunks of Ron to breathagain but patience, and good troubleshooting procedure is a good thing. Get on eBay and get a shop manual repops are 25 bucks and worth it. Then go to your library resource section, find the "Motors Manual" and read and make copies of the trouble shooting guide in the bóok. Don't grab a bunch of tools and start shotgunning stuff. There are procedures which will save you time and money and keep you from turning a no start fault into a basket case, with a pile of receipts and empty parts boxes you probably don't need. The process will also give you an understanding of the systems and how they work together. It really is as simple as suck, squeeze, bang, blow. There is also lots of tune up specs, techtips and how too on this sight,. Go to resources and down loads. Read read read. And first part to buy AC or Autolite spark plugs. The standard plug in AC is 45r. Autolite is 306 I think but the ac number will cross over.. get some masking tape and label the spark plug wires, commit the cylinder firing order to memory. Welcome and good luck. The other thing to do is to look at the engine number. It is on the block stamped into a flat spot above the generator. Should start with P 15, but engine changes were pretty common back in the day to keep these on the road. So you results may very.
    1 point
  13. Clean the points and make sure they're seeing voltage. A lot of times points will corrode enough from setting that the engine won't fire.
    1 point
  14. Nice start, it gets to be an addiction.
    1 point
  15. Motor was stuck after sitting for the last month and I couldn't for the life of me figure out why. and I mean stuuuuck! Thought it may be transmission related but It turns out I had accidentally ran my mounting bolts into the fluid drive coupling and actually prevented it from turning (circled in photo). Yikes. Of course I took everything off and pulled the head before finding all this out..... Good news is, I found out my engine was rebuilt at some point, I was able to redo my leaking headgasket and so far no leaks. also powerwashed out all the water jackets, flushed the cooling system and cleaned out the water distribution tube all in one go. New water pump and no leaks for my nuce new radiator and everything is running nicely. So as far as I am concerned, engine work is done. Now onto the body. I really would like to pull the body off the frame but I fear the overall rigidity is insignificant. I wanted to put rockers on and attach the car on the sides before I tried picking it up. Now the issue is, I have absolutely nothing to go off of template wise which is both good and bad. The good being that I can make it whatever shape I want because there is literally nothing there and if it works, it works. The bad being it might not be that great compared to the original and I'm still figuring out how it all goes together. That being said, this is a learning experience and no challenge is too big so it's going to be a "crack open a beer (or three) and apply my engineering and furious youtube sleuthing skills" and make it myself. I did spend some time at the neighbors place and make my sills thanks to his 8 ft bender. The last picture is the first sheet metal work I've ever done and I'm pretty pround of the result. By no means perfect but will definitely work for this car. Now to get both the curved piece and the sill onto the car then work on the rockers.
    1 point
  16. The engine needs three things to run. A spark, delivered at the proper time and of sufficient strength. This can be checked here's a video on how to check the setting on a non-running engine with nothing more than a timing light. Fuel, your carb has fuel in it, but is it making it into the intake? Not uncommon for a carb to get gummed up from evaporating fuel if it has sat for a long time. Pull the air cleaner and work the throttle linkage by hand ans see if any fuel is squirting in the carb throat, you may have to open the choke butterfly to see this. Air, a plugged up air filter might be a remote possibility. Over filled with oil? When it's off for the fuel check and if the fuel check passes see if it'll start, or at least try, with the oil bath filter off.
    1 point
  17. well, if you just bought it and have no clue what to do with it....perhaps you should not have bought it....best just drop that pig off at my house and cut your losses......?
    1 point
  18. Friday night the wife and I finally got a chance to cruise around. First we had dinner courtesy of my boss. That was nice since we never get out. Then later we treated ourselves to DQ. Here's the Meadowbrook at rest when the night was over. Sure was fun! ?
    1 point
  19. Installing stock overdrive tranny upgrade in my coupe. Orig 6 cyl. Anyone have recommendations/experience for quality clutch, pressure plate, bearing and bushing? Mopar- Pro on eBay has "made in the USA" set up for $369... no exch Kanter has individual parts for similar price w/ exch core. Surprisingly can't get straight answers from NAPA or Car Quest Any feedback would be appreciated Thanks
    1 point
  20. Holy fecal matter! What a score....I love town sedans! Military maroon yowser.
    1 point
  21. 3-24-21: Been driving the car to work all week. It's been raining most of the week so far, and my car leaks and is wet on the inside. After work I ran a bunch of errands and then stopped at Dairy Queen with my daughter. Then we cruised around for a while. It's always fun.
    1 point
  22. last parts came in today for my lift.......hopefully this is done and done been waiting to put this thing to bed.......buildings are complete also and outfitted for working as needed...now to get back onto a car project or three.....I finished the lift with finals to cover the cable ends and attached gargoyles just for dress....Installed a 30" mirror for to see where I am at when driving on.....few boxes to file away yet....just in time I hope as the weather is breaking a bit for us.
    1 point
  23. One ‘54 Plymouth park lens and base was for sale on eBay for $45. There was a bid option so I bid $25 which was accepted. The part arrived today complete with rubber gasket, four mounting screws, and three lens, two late design, one early and the complete mount. Now that is what I call honest business. Thank you JVP!!!
    1 point
  24. Got new driveshaft from the local shop and got it painted. Went with the Spicer 2-2-349 conversion flanges to accept standard u joints as I didn't have a driveshaft anyways. I was missing one of the rear spacers for the transmission mounts so I made another one from some scrap and got to try out the new plasma cutter today. Worked great so thats a big positive. Wish I had a good sized lathe.....In between routing dad's shop air the M37 project and everything else going on, I answered a few of the previous questions I had: 1.) The three holes are for an alternate style of mount, I found them attached to the original block I had set off to the side. I went with the mounts that came with the lower bellhousing. 2.) yes, the gyromatic has longer holes for the studs so I will swap these out with short bolts. Once I get the driveshaft installed, best case scenario is I can throw a radiator on it and move it on it's own power. Then start on the body mounts and getting some structural integrity around the rest of the body with sheet metal. Trying to get my old hot rod friend out here to give me some advice but the guy still works even though he can't hardly walk....
    1 point
  25. A late 50s Mercury wagon I really liked...
    1 point
  26. Taught my wife how to drive the car tonight. She likes to be the passenger, but I told her that in case of an emergency she has to know how to drive it. What better car to learn the clutch than an old Dodge with Fluid Drive! You have to try pretty hard to kill the engine. She did fine. 40mph tops, though
    1 point
  27. This restored Cabover was nice
    1 point
  28. These cars were meant to drive and enjoy fellas, and I don't mean twice a year to some summer car shows. You ain't takin' it with ya, so drive it and be happy
    1 point
  29. Every time I look at that car,I want it a little more. I think if it were mine,I would clean up the rust on the bumper and paint it with clear to keep it from rusting again,and then just do my damndest to keep it exactly the way it is in those photos. Original,untouched 40's cars are almost impossible to find anymore,and that one is such a fine example it would almost be a shame to mess with it at this late date. Do you have any history on previous owners and where it was stored and how it was used? My 42 Dodge coupe is an original 30 thousand mile car that was bought new by a woman in Boston a couple of days before Pearl Harbor,and she kept it in her garage and only drove it to church on Sunday,or maybe to a special event. When she died in the late 80's,the guy I bought it from bought it at her estate sale to use as a "model" to restore one he already had. The damn fool parked it out in his back yard and kept a door propped open so his dog would have a place to sleep out of the rain and snow. I saw it for sale with some fuzzy photos and asked him how bad the obvious rust was,and he told me "not too bad. Mostly surface rust",so I bought it. When the guy I hired to bring it to me got there to pick it up,it was so rusty he called me on the phone and asked me if I really wanted it. Since I had already paid for it,I told him to bring it. Not only that,but the trunk full of spare NOS parts was empty,and a couple of parts had been sold off the engine,like the carb and breather,and the hubcaps were all missing. I called and asked the seller about it,and he said,"Oh,yeah. I had my son come over to help me move it up front so your guy could load it on his trailer,and he mentioned that he knew where he could sell all that stuff,so I guess he took it." No apology,no nothing. He later had the stones to email me and ask me if I would send him progress photos when I started working on it.
    0 points
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