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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/12/2021 in all areas

  1. It was/is an unusual winter for us in southern Alberta, Canada. I’ve driven my ‘48 Dodge club coupe every month over the winter and posted about it on this forum. However, I felt it was time to get the ‘53 Plymouth Belvedere out of its corner of the garage where it was parked for the winter. Today was its first run of 2021. It fired instantly after being primed and ran like I shut it off yesterday, not five months ago. I’ve owned if since 1975. It’s a survivor including original paint. It has 102,029 miles as of being shut off today. Only had rings and a burnt valve replaced about 30,000 miles ago. Of my three old Mopars, this is my favourite. It is just such a sweet car to own and drive.
    10 points
  2. Mark, Like so many here, this is what it was for 30 years or so in my Dad's garage. Drove it ( black then ) 1980-1981 and disassembled , and garaged it all those years. Started the build in 2012 and still going. Working to get it road worthy this year.
    2 points
  3. When I saw what the owner did on the blue car I made my decision.
    2 points
  4. I'd advise you to consider applying for the renowned MTF Training Program. You'll have flathead Mopar engines to remove, rebuild, and re-install without spending any of your hard-earned cash. An instructor with decades of experience will be available to guide you on your journey to automotive nirvana! Only your labor is required! Parts, tools, and a work area will be provided by MTF! Other makes of engines and vehicles are also available if you'd like to expand your knowledge beyond the Mopar realm. There are paint, bodywork, upholstery, and automotive electrical wiring opportunities available to a select few candidates. Just imagine, days filled with vehicular bliss, blood blisters, sore muscles, and busted knuckles all at no cost to you! The only requirement is your willingness to learn! Imagine the sense of pride you'll feel and best of all, a valuable certificate of completion with a greasy handprint from MTF himself will be awarded when you're finished! Nobody else could offer this once in a lifetime opportunity! Even fewer would accept the challenge! Act now while there's still time!! Limited positions available! All vehicles will be retained by MTF. Payment for tutoring will be required at a rated determined by MTF. Enrollment acceptance at MTF's whim. Offer can be withdrawn at any time.
    2 points
  5. Robert KB, Super looking Plymouth. I love the color scheme too and the area where you are driving is really picturesque. Thanks for posting the pics. John R
    1 point
  6. Chrysler Windsor and Desoto are the most comparable in size and weight, the dodge is close.
    1 point
  7. So the FatMan kit came earlier this week. I’m a bit underwhelmed at what you get for $324. But as I said before why reinvent the wheel. Plus I get it. These guys put all the time into designing and testing their product to keep us hot rodders rolling along. There is also a fairly comprehensive instruction sheet included. Hope to get started on this once I button up the engine and trans and get them installed. Stay tuned.
    1 point
  8. I don't expect any issues but if you see any new unusual behavior let me know at info@p15-d24.com.
    1 point
  9. Here you go, I put these on in 2018...James
    1 point
  10. That's one fine looking buggy...that paint job really pops
    1 point
  11. I enjoy reading & learning from resolved problems that are posted here. But it is a breath of fresh air to have post’s as this , to read of an original car, it’s factory accessories, it’s specifications, that it is being enjoyed & driven in the month of March , in Canada , without a cloud in the sky!! Thank you for posting Robert, Two thumbs up ? ?
    1 point
  12. It would appear that by 1935 people in North America were indeed consumed by the automobile. The industry had a firm grip on American culture. This is 20 years before 1955. The period I would have more associated with the apex of American car culture. Its seems, the automotive boon lasted many decades. What an epic period of industry, travel & fun adventurous times in your car. I
    1 point
  13. I just checked the NAPA website for prices and they want $357 a pair for rear shocks and $252 a pair for front shocks! So I checked Rock Auto under Dodge. Their computer said they didn't have shocks for DeSoto, but I think Dodge shocks are the same. These are prices for the Monroe shocks #5752 front at $16.88 each and #31000 rear at $16.65 each. So that's about $68 for all four shocks. I think I'll go with Rock Auto! They also had some cheaper shocks from a brand I don't recognize. I wonder why so much cheaper at Rock Auto than O'Reilly's and NAPA?
    1 point
  14. Mine came from AB and are nitrogen filled direct replacements for a reasonable price. The shocks for my 40 were rebuildable but are now sitting in my spare parts section. The new style replacements should give the car a very reasonable ride superior to the old oil filled ones. M
    1 point
  15. And a pic of a 1950 Chrysler 8 KD switch bullet style. Basically same as the six cylinder cars. Notice the orientation of the choke plate rod deflector ... The wire/wires depends on production # of vehicle on both the six and eight needs a tight bend to avoid the sisson choke rod.
    1 point
  16. Yes to all. Actually a P24-3 which indicates Belvedere. Got the fancy steering wheel, two-tone factory paint, full wheel covers, backup lights, factory carpet throughout, and lots of stainless trim cheaper models didn’t have or only had some of it.
    1 point
  17. In all seriousness it seems that the owner of the cars in the original post is trying to say "Get lost!" in a nice way.
    1 point
  18. Your car should have the Bullet connector. All second series 1949 Chrysler cars and up thru 1953 all use the bullet connector with the M6 trans. 1946-48 Chrysler's and possibly some early 1st series 1949 Chrysler's use the spade connector. I will dig up pictures to dhow you. Your carb has that small metal defector installed wrong...180 off. It actually keeps the choke linkage rod from hitting the KD bullet connector and wire.
    1 point
  19. Nice clean example of the early 50's Mopar. Was it built in Detroit or Windsor?
    1 point
  20. I love that car. There's a simpleness to it that's somehow calming. Congrats on getting it out, and thanks for sharing ?
    1 point
  21. Not knowing what you might find in California, what I can say is in the midwest there are a fair amount of cherokees in the boneyards. Limited slips appear to be the exception with most being open rear ends. For disc brakes I believe you can retrofit the rear disc set up from a Jeep liberty with an 8 1/4 axle. Reference Mopar Action magazine for more detail where they used the liberty disc set up on 8 3/4 axles used in the muscle era.
    1 point
  22. Picked up a back up just in case one of the other 2 crap out on me.... The old heap came with what I thought was a stock 40 Ford rear end...the folks on the HAMB set me straight...it was a 1948 Ford front end...everything was locked up on it... I started hammering on this axle off and on in August of 2019...it was last 2020 when I finally got all the parts apart... Next time we tackle radius rods .....
    1 point
  23. An easy check when it's hot and won't start: Remove the engine air filter. Look down the carb venturi. Cycle the throttle linkage a couple times. Look for raw fuel squirting into the carb throat. The accelerator pump squirts it in there, when it's working right, and when there is fuel in the carb bowl. If there is no fuel in the carb bowl, is it evaporating? Could be. Why is there no liquid fuel being pumped back into the carb bowl? Vapor lock could be an issue. Remove the fuel line where it enters into the carb. Hold it into a bucket or bottle. Have a friend crank the engine over to activate the mechanical fuel pump. Is there liquid fuel pumping out of the fuel line? If not, you seem to have a fuel delivery problem. Let the car totally cool down and try this test again. Maybe let it sit overnight. In the morning, now is there liquid fuel pumping out of the fuel line, while cranking the engine over? If yes, you likely have vapor lock issues. Try non-ethanol fuel. Is your heat riser valve in the exhaust manifold stuck open? Overheating the carb? Check it out. If you do have good fuel delivery, & good compression (when hot) , good chance its something in the ignition system. I like to use my own screw-ups as examples to help others. One time I set my engine tappets incorrectly. I was learning. Boy did the engine run quiet and smooth! I was proud. Then everything heated up. Valve stems elongated. Valve lash decreased. Hmm, the noise out the exhaust sounds off. "Something is awry" I thought. By now I had poor cylinder compression and my hot engine would not start. The exhaust valves were not seating properly. When I let everything cool down, the valve stems shrunk again. No problem. The engine fired right up. I re-set the valves properly. Licked my wounds, checked my pride, and we were all better off.
    1 point
  24. the birds were delicious...pecan smoked.......there was just enough drippings for mums to make a tad of gravy, enter some biscuits and man, I ate too much. The birds were dressed without their wings, the legs did not dry out either and I chose not to wrap these in bacon on my first try. For a first go with a small bird, I will say, I will do this again. Neighbor enjoyed his meal, he said he would send over another large batch of birds for my freezer.
    1 point
  25. What is the reading on your water temperature guage when you try to restart it? If it's not boiling,it's not hot enough to vapor lock. I am guessing the problem is not vapor lock,though. PROPABLY ignition or carbuerator related. Maybe timing. Check your gas lines to make sure none are running too close to the exhaust manifold,tailpipe,or even the engine. Could be your timing is too high. Does it seem like the engine wants to "kick back" when it starts,or maybe sputters until it starts? Get it running again,let it warm up to normal operating temp,and then loosen the distributor clamp and advance and retard the ignition until you find the "sweet spot" where it idles smooth. Retighten the clamp and start it again. This is common with old cars that have timing chains that have stretched and timing gears that are worn. What I suggested above is often just a temporary fix. IF this "Fix" "cures" your problem,plan on buying a new timing chain and gear set and crankshaft front seal because it ain't going to get better.
    1 point
  26. Multimeters are classified by they voltage and the location in the electrical system they can be used in. These are known at the CAT 1 through 4. Basically CAT one is electronics and CAT four is outside utility power. It basically corresponds to the amount of current the meter could stand without becoming a fire ball in your hand. I'm an industrial electrician at work and I have some nice fluke stuff that is CAT 3 1000v or CAT 4 600 v rated because I work on mostly 3 phase 480 stuff that could have a lot of fault or surge current, so I need the higher rated stuff. For home automotive I would pick up a cheapy at home depot or napa or wherever as there is no need to pay for the higher rates stuff. I have a 30 dollar Klien from home depot at home and it works just fine.
    1 point
  27. Your friend in the know is mistaken, plumbing flux for plumbing solder has an acid base and can corrode, electronics solder does not as it uses a rosin flux. https://homeguides.sfgate.com/different-solders-electrical-vs-plumbing-85033.html
    1 point
  28. 1 point
  29. @Conn47D24 Paint the back of the dash gloss white.....you can thank me later when you are standing on your head trying to see what you are doing......lol.
    1 point
  30. Full day in the garage. Dash pad with reconditioned retainer clips. Fresh air adapter package. Cowl vent /fresh air vent controls. Now the Motrin.
    1 point
  31. Hi Frank, Back in the late 80s I sent my original harness to Rhode Island Wiring and they made me a new one. I stored it with the car. Then installed the engine section last year to start the engine after rebuild. Some color fade for sure, and dust from the body work, but working fine. Ill be testing all wires as I build the dash, and before I finish interior. I plan to feed extra runs of wires to all covered interior and trunk areas just in case. Thank you for taking a close look, I appreciate a 2nd and more sets of eyes here. ???
    1 point
  32. Make sure you have excellent grounding at all electrical components. Paint is really pretty and excellent at preventing electrical grounding. Which causes electrical issues in a lot of restorations.
    1 point
  33. Found the receipt for the fronts on my 46 they were the 5752s. Also in my manual l have a sticky note with the Gabriel number 81469 which shows for rear. Specs are extended 22.54 collapsed 12.68 and stroke of 8.8 Also have a note for 82156 Extended 20.33, collapsed 12.37, stroke 7.9
    1 point
  34. additional information - Shock Absorber Replacement I found the $200 shock absorbers and compared its specifications to the Monroe 5752 shocks, the biggest difference being the 3/4" vs 5/8" mounting diameters. Looking through the Monroe and Gabriel catalogs, I could not find any front shocks that were close to the 5752s in compressed or extended lengths, looking at the 11/16" and 3/4" mounting diameters, with several bushing widths. So it looks like the 5752 is the best game in town if ya can open up the bushings carefully or maybe even get the right sized bushings to swap out.
    1 point
  35. Shock studs on a 51 are 3/4 and shock studs on a 50 are 5/8. I assume you can probably just make up that difference with some sort of sleeve, but I think the 51 shocks are a different part number and that they are a little bit stiffer. so, the ya rent all the same. What year is your car?
    1 point
  36. Great - I'll take it :-))))) Just joking obviously. Great car also - and yes this bracket certainly makes sense. I have approached a few junkyards. Maybe they can help :-)
    1 point
  37. I tried that too... My book shows what looks very similar to what I have but it's labeled for the bigger trucks. No diagram for the pickups.
    0 points
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