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Today I went to evict the rodents nesting in the cab of my new treasure. Also removed the remnants of the rotten flatbed and sprayed PB Blaster on all the lug nuts. I ended up filling (4) 45 gal trash bags with the material from the rodent nests. Sorry about the sideways pics.

Update for Feb. Last sheet metal installed, carbs rebuilt and balanced, fitted modern light sockets around the car for 12V bulbs. Put wheel spacers on rear wheels to bump them out a bit. Last bits are headlight wiring, tie in fog light (using as turn signals), and wipers. Then head onto motor vehicle inspection for my tags and I'm ready to cruise. Now I'm on the hunt for some odds and ends. Period front tag holder to bumper guard, usable hubcaps, and passenger side front side panel ornaments (just under hood).

Hopping up the flathead with the major selection of parts now available is also a good way to go if your stock engine is good and healthy. Check out some of the engine build threads on this site and you will see some pretty impressive versions of the flat 6. Welcome to the site man! M

Take the first vaccine you can get. The virus does not recognize prayer.

That bell housing doesn’t look deep enough for a Fluid Drive coupling. It may just be a regular clutch.

All things in moderation.... ?

Whose gonna join us for the next p15 picnic in Watkins Glen NY? Please click this link to sign up for future emails ->http://eepurl.com/heC-Ov

I bought it! After a minor accident at the gas station first thing this morning, icy roads, 600+ miles and 15 hours later, I got myself a 51 Dodge 1 ton. It's currently still on the trailer at a friend's house, too tired to deal with it tonight in the cold and dark. She's got a few unexpected issues, but the price was right and the truck is awesome. We got a lot of looks and thumbs up on the way home with it. I'm looking forward to warmer temps and getting to know this thing better. For now, here's a couple pics from today.

Got my first shot today. Appointment was at 2, arrived at 1:55. They had an army of volunteers directing cars, checking people in and getting shots. Hundreds of cars moving through the parking lot at any given moment. Didn't even have to get out of the car. I was finished and pulling out of the parking lot at 2:15.

Yeah, Sure do!!! Just called her, and thanked her ?

remember when your mom told you that if you heard the music it meant they were sold out......?

“The virus does not recognize prayer.” Or maybe it DOES I the form of meds. I recall that one blind man was told to wash his face in the river., FFT.

For me, I was in the market for a new project. I knew I wanted it to be pre-war and my wife said it needed to be 4 door. So my 1940 D14 fell into my lap and it's been a loving relationship ever since getting it ready for the road. First tags under my ownership coming in the next few weeks.

Correct me if I am wrong but was not this article by our own former member Graybeard? A recommended read. Exhaust Heat Risers Debunked – Myth and Fact (dodgepilothouseclub.org)

If the flap doesn't move to the fully clockwise position when the engine is hot it will continue to heat the intake manifold when the heat is no longer needed for proper running. This could cause the mixture to lean out from higher than needed intake temperatures. My heat riser is gutted and has a block off plate between the manifolds. I have driven in temps from the low 40s to the mid teens with no I'll effects other than requiring the choke a bit longer during warm up.

If you are interested, here is a pic of the underside of where your carb mounts. Bottom view of the intake manifold. The exhaust gas is deflected up into this cavity area to quickly heat up the carb base. Helping gas vapors stay in suspension.

Firming up lodging and hospitality arrangements over the coming couple of weeks. Sign up on the email list. At last found we have 70 plus responses from interested folks, so when announced rooms will likely book fast Keep you posted.

You remove the cable assembly from the back of the speedometer. Then maneuver the thing so you can pull the worm out of the sleeve. It's a messy job so protect your self and near by carpets and upholstery. Clean with solvent. Then apply the new lube to a few inches at a time as you thread it back in. Make sure it's seated into the trans and then reattach the cable assembly back into the speedo. Don't over tighten, infact leave it a thread or two loose till you get a few miles, then snug it down.

Well the Fire Dept ambulance just took my next door neighbor to the hospital with covid. She is 80 and has the usual issues that can affect it. Her daughter caught it with no symptoms but loss of taste(she’s mid 40’s). Although her Father who is 81 got his vaccine shots her Mom refused preferring to rely on Prayer. Sure hope she comes out ok as I do for all the rest of you who are dealing with it.

You should try it with Carmel sauce. Mmmmmgood. At least once anyway.

Hold out for some tri-tip- ggdad1951, he does the cooking, And - drawn butter garlic shrimp over the BBQ. He IS a good cook! Do not travel that far cheap without a good fill up!! ?? DJ

that's a smoking deal, brent. DO IT!

And silly me just used a lightweight gp grease 15 years ago not ever knowing a special one even existed. No troubles at all. I miss Don Coatney and his common sense.

have this ratchet, 3/4 drive, round head, 30" with a taper end (light spud if you will) I am sure it has a special purpose with the end being tapered....anyone know this application...I am thinking trucker tool, possible ratcheting tie down bar....

I think you are correct. I have seen similar tools used for tie downs. Here is what I think is a tool for electronics. No clue what it was used for. I just thought it was cool so my Uncle gave it to me and sits on a shelf in the garage. Has 2 wires in the back, a button on one side and a rotating knob on the other. there is 2 clips on the sides where maybe it held some probes connected to the wires? Case is made out of bakelite.

MMM, antifreeze is sweet!!

A bit more that you may consider Clay. Agree with all the above advice but if you want to add other accessories, period or otherwise then consider setting up a self made accessory/fuse board. Have had this done to mine. Is hidden up under dash but still accessible enough. 1. Is for auxiliary connections and fuses. 2. Is flasher unit for turn signal. 3. 6v to 12v and polarity converter. For modern FM radio/bluetooth. 4. Connection point for that radio. Am also going to hook up a USB charger somewhere discreetly too.

That's the plan. Make it safe and reliable to drive and let it be what it is, a 70 year old farm truck.

I suggest you pull the head and inspect for stuck valves and the short, maybe rusted cylinder wall and thus prevent internal damage/galling to cam/lifter etc...your call though...this in my opinion has the less likelihood of doing damage...if you just freeing it up to do a tear down and rebuild, you may be replacing the items automatically you may damage and in that case....get a larger lever...

Herb really gets into the meat. Pretty deep. I quite like his writing and delivery. This new found book and knowledge, should really help my trouble shooting skills overall.

I ordered and installed brand new bias black walls on my '38 Plymouth. I figure it was a lower-priced model car, for the average working Joe or Jolene. Who buys the cheaper car in 1938 and puts white walls on it? That's just my opinion. I went with Coker. Bought them from Summit Racing web site. Free freight. Coker was charging a premium for freight. For my 1953 Chrysler, I bought brand new Coker Radial, wide-white walls. Expensive? Ya, sorta I guess. But the old car deserves it. The Chrysler was a premium product. Good chance I figure that back in '53 folks might have been more inclined to buy white walls and fancy chrome spoked rims. The difference? The radials float along and offer a cushioned, track-free ride. However my big old Chrysler does not have power steering. The bulge in a radial tire makes it harder to steer in low speed applications. Like pulling into a parking spot. Or parallel parking. The bias are firm and do not flex. Low speed, strong arm steering wheel manipulation is easier. However the bias tires do want to follows ruts, cracks in the road. Sorta like they have ADD. Ya gotta be ready with the steering wheel at all times. I read that putting radials (they bulge and flex) on original rims designed for bias tires, can cause pre-mature failures of the old rims. Cracking can develop from all the tire flexing. Transferring additional stresses onto the rim. Seems believable to me. I run tubes inside both types of tires. I am fortunate to own 2 cars and 2 tire options. Spoiled. Preference today? For me personally it makes no difference to me. Both tires have good and bad points. I just can't imagine putting wide white wall radial tires on my '38. For me it just doesn't work. You do whatever you like and I'm good with that. Just leaving my experience and opinion for you. - K

Congrats, now get on the google and buy yourself a shop manual, and a parts book.

I thought I would post some pictures of my great grandpa's Dodge truck since I pulled it out of the barn. This thing has only been out in the daylight 3 times since it was parked in 1971, the year my grandpa died. Once was when I was a 10 year old kid...I asked my grandma's brother to get his Farmall over to the "Dodge shed" and pull it out so I could wash it. My uncle said "Hey you know there are stakes for the bed of that truck somewhere around here....I'll see if I can find them.." He dug around for a while and came back with all the wood. The farm in the 50's had a sawmill up and running, hence the "fire wood, slab wood, rustic slabs", and also had hundreds of goats too, hence the "Get your goat at Timber Edge Farm". The second time this truck got pulled out was about 10 years ago. The Dodge shed was right next to a massively tall sycamore tree. An impressive tree well over 100 feet high. In a pretty bad storm the top 25 feet of that tree broke off, flew over the dodge shed, and embedded itself like a 12inch diameter spike in the ground on the opposite side of the dodge shed....meaning that thing, in any less wind, would have smashed the truck to pieces. So I cleared a new space for it in the barn, chained it up, and dragged it out of its shed. 2 weeks ago, I finally got the engine unsiezed using the "jack-up-the-rear-tire" method. I didn't have a breaker bar or a lot of room to work, so I read about this method and it worked. Poured WD-40 and liquid wrench into the cylinders and let them soak over the winter (I've got no timeline with this truck), then this spring I jacked up 1 rear tire, put the truck in high gear, and turned it as far as I could to one side. When it stuck, I jerked the tire a few times, then sprayed in liquid wrench and left it a few days. Came back, turned the wheel as far as I could the other way and did the same thing, figuring I was creating some pressure cracks in the rust that the oil could get into. Came back a few days later and could turn the wheel all the way around. This weekend I got it out, changed the oil and hooked to my neighbors tractor, and we pulled it in third gear down the lane and back at my place with the plugs out and a capful of oil in the chambers. The truck went about a mile. When we got back, we put a battery on and it turns over easily with battery power. I also drained the gas tank and added 2.5 gallons of E85 to soak in the tank to work on the varnish and will drain that out before I move the truck again. Anyways, I thought you would enjoy some pictures. The Dodge also got to formally meet "Mr.T." when he drove by. Mr. T.'s flatbed comes in handy as a mobile work station. We were headed down to check on my beehives in the woods. Interesting how modern the dodge looks next to a Ton Truck from 25 years prior.

Well I didn't get as much done as I had hoped this weekend. I hate getting hung up on things. New plug wires arrived so I was gonna try to install them but ended up deciding to clean the thing first, especially the bed and the cab. The bed had a hodge-podge of stuff: fishing poles and a tackle box, tool boxes (Do any of you have a Dodge tool box??? There was one in the back of this truck!), Model T headlights, Dodge Brothers drum headlamps, road flares and flags (grandpa was county road commissioner for a while), and tons of odds and ends tools. The cab had: a mouse nest and an inch of mouse poop in the glovebox, 2 inches of mouse/rat poop under the seat, and behind the seat were rubber dipped gloves, every type of portable jack you can imagine, a pack of Salem cigs, a meal ticket for the "Brite Spot" drive in...someone ordered a triple thick shake. God that sounds good. Anyways, cleaned it all out with the shop vac, then took a wire brush to the mouse turds to free them up, vacuumed again, then Mr. Clean and water with a scrub brush, then hosed out, then blown dry with my air compressor and there went the day. Here are some pictures of it with all the dirt off.

15 is too young, 36 is too old, 24 is just right. You'll remember this way. Gene G.