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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/16/2021 in all areas

  1. This is how it all ended up- Problems solved! The shop that rebuilt the engine fixed them within a few weeks after I pulled the engine again. It ended up that the lip on the new rear main seal used in the rebuild was bad (it had the style pictured below) and the adjustment lock nut on the one of the new lifters was because of a bad part too. As not to have possible wear issues on the broken in newly-ground cam by putting in a new lifter, they just fixed the lock nut instead of replacing the whole lifter. Makes sense. Next I will adjust the lifters again and it will run even better. I felt bad for the machine shop- with the Covid crap last year their second assembler and a couple machinists wouldn't come back to work when the shop opened up again in April because they said with unemployment and the Covid bonus payments from the Government they didn't have to work. Such integrity...That put a hurt on the shop taking care of their customers while they looked for good people. Those guys have been replaced and the shop is doing great and able to take care of their customers in a timely fashion again. They sure did a great job on taking care of the issues I had. FYI- I put 100 miles on the car and not a drop of oil from the rear main seal, so it can be done! If I do get some seepage in the future I won't care. This was a HUGE improvement. I knew something was wrong. Thanx to all of you for your help and advice. Back on the road again and I am loving it! Bruce
    2 points
  2. That's an odd way to spell "impossible".
    2 points
  3. Thanx for all the input. I took the easy way out. I took the plate and tube assembly out and checked to ensure that the tube was swaged tight to the cover. Cleaned it, wiped the shims and box surfaces clean and reassembled. Ordered a tube of John Deere Corn Head Grease, took the zerk head off the flex hose on one of my grease guns and pumped the steering box full. Smooth steering operation and no more worries. Thanx very much again. On to the next project!
    2 points
  4. Bumper on. One thing I noticed is the bumper/front horn frames must be different from B1/2 to B3/4. I used a B1/2 bumper and B3/4 frame horns (or was it the other way around...can't remember anymore )and the holes don't match up....I had to drill new holes for a second top hole and bottom hole.
    2 points
  5. One thing is certain,and that it is not a linkage clip. Every linkage clip I have ever seen is a straight line piece that clips over the throttle linkage and over the carb linkage. Never seen one with a nut. The nut would prevent the linkage from moving.
    1 point
  6. Our car's radio hasn't worked for 20 years or so. Speaker went Tango Uniform, haven't bothered to replace it, though I know it's a relatively easy fix. El Paso, TX and Carlsbad, NM (actually out of Roswell) had good AM stations to listen to, but usually when we were parked somewhere. I've discovered that I, too, enjoy just listening to the sound of the car and road as we're cruising along. Modern cars don't blow my skirt up, though. Too quiet.
    1 point
  7. 1 point
  8. I've painted a lot of cars off of the frame. Mostly on cart/dollies, sometimes on a rotisserie. All body work, panel replacement and prep is done on the frame with NEW mounts. The body isn't removed until final final is done. If you're not doing any body or paint work, make a simple table and pull that sucker. If you are doing body work, make sure it's 100% titties before you do. It's not as big as a deal as it seems. Your chassis will be that much nicer. Just my 2 cents but I have done this more than a few times. Good luck.
    1 point
  9. If your floors and rockers are good then shut and lock doors thats all the rigidity you need if it is a flimsy rustbucket then you have no business taking it off the frame yet.
    1 point
  10. YEAH, the little buggers will be wearing overcoats and hats....where I am at they carrying umbrellas and wearing galoshes
    1 point
  11. It’s not on any part of the throttle linkage on my 47 DeSoto. Took a quick look around the engine bay and transmission linkage and didn’t see it anywhere there neither.
    1 point
  12. I use that system, as well. I'm up to July 3, 2037.
    1 point
  13. I have five cars and a divorce. The Truck's a Toyota, so it doesn't even count.
    1 point
  14. 3) Adjust the timing by rotating the distributor, set dwell by adjusting the point gap. I would use a dwell meter for this purpose.
    1 point
  15. I have been staring at these photos for way too long, but I noticed there are two different applications of the decal. One centered under the Outlet and one to the right of the Outlet, wondering which is correct or both? I think I am almost there with the decal, at least close enough for my use. ?
    1 point
  16. On all of the postings on this topic and of the various body styles that are either up on a hoist on a cart or even on a rotating unit I have an issue with all of them. The issue is that the body has been removed from the frame. The doors have been removed and now you have no support for the door area. I have attended several AACA Annual Meeting in Philadelphia Pa and there have been each year several restoration shops that put on seminars about restoring cars and trucks. After they have taken the doors and truck and other supporting items they all do an X bracing at the doors and across the interior of the body to prevent twisting of the body. This is also to insure that the body does not get out of alignment with itself and that when you go to put the doors and truck lid back on the body has stayed straight. This is especially important if you need to weld in new rocker panels and or other major body panels. One of the restorers even use a hand pressure lawn tank to spray the interior of the rocker panels. He drills small holes so that he can spray in a rust preventer and to coat the interior panels to prevent any rust out in future years. Think about what you are trying to accomplish and plan it out and write it down and go over your steps several times before even starting the work. Have another car guy look at your process steps he might find where you might have missed something. And best suggestion is if you have gone this far do not rush your work you have one time to do it correctly and then after it is all put back together its too late to try to repair something else that should have been done. Plan and then plan again and then plan for the third or even 4th time. Take lots of photos because you will forget what you took apart. or how something goes back together. If you have a budget then and another 50% to the budget for cost overrun and for unknown repairs and issues and tools that you need to purchase. People wonder why a professionally total restored car such as a common Desoto, Plymouth, Dodge or even Chrylser has a larger selling price when the car is complete. Just think of the amount of time and correct steps involved such as the steps for just bracing the body. This is all extra time but has a cost if you want a professional restored ground. up restoration. Just my $5 comment. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  17. Went through some of my photos to see what NOS Parts I had accumulated for this project over the years. Crankshaft Gauge Set and Speedo Faceplate Kingpin Bushing Set and Seals Seals for Rear Axle Rear Spring Bolts Ever Dry Kit 1 Ton Running Boards (long ones)
    1 point
  18. I am 68 and last year the arthritis pain in my hands and wrists was keeping me from working on my car or anything else. Then in June my doctor told me I had diabetes and prescibed pills, weight loss and diet change. Now I have lost 25 pounds, am taking my meds, and have no pain in my hands or other joints. It is like a new lease on life.
    1 point
  19. I usually like to listen to the sounds of the motor and the road. But sometimes I throw in a cd of big band tunes. It just seems appropriate for a '40s car.
    1 point
  20. 1 point
  21. In his post Rallyace makes a good point about setting the float a tad lower than Manual suggests (I think that the manual call out 5/64" from the top of Carb edge). The other reason may be the needle and seat may be allowing some fuel past after shutting down (That's where gas enters the carb through the Brass Fitting) Some times that needle is worn or damaged from even tiny rust particles from the gas tank. I cut new gaskets from stock - its saves on those rebuild Kits. Open the top of the Carb set the float down a little, check your needle and seat. put in a homemade gasket (I cut mine with an Exacto Knife and hole punch) and if everything looks good tighten those screws and test drive. You maybe lucky and can put off a Carb rebuild. Tom
    1 point
  22. Well my 1952 Suburban was built before the Interstate highway system so its preferred speed is 55-60 since it has a 3.73 rear end. An Overdrive with its 30% high gear gets you to modern speeds painlessly. A 1940 (one year only) gear set lowers 2nd gear for better acceleration and to utilize the Overdrive more often in 2nd gear. I have a 3.54 pumpkin (from a 1956) for the stock rear end if I can get more horse power to pull it. To get the extra horse power I've built a 265 Chrysler which is in waiting for it. More power and more speed indicates an upgrade to better brakes and that is addressed with 12 inch Chrysler Windsor brakes. Everything is period Mopar and everything is available if you do some shopping for a decent price. Overdrive prices I believe have peaked. The days of cheap Ford and Chevy Overdrives and expensive Plymouths are gone. They're all expensive but bargains are now appearing in the Mopar realm. That's my 2 cents and your mileage may vary.
    1 point
  23. You ever pul a thread on your shirt and the whole thing unravels? ?
    1 point
  24. If you do not have a brazing set up, silver solder and a propane torch will work. JB not so much. It seems a leak so soon after application indicates a breakdown in sealing agent.
    1 point
  25. And the type the old 40's early 50's dodge medium duty 5 or 6 bolt trucks used,... side split ring as shown... much easier and safer to deal with if serviced right and not rusty...
    1 point
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