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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/26/2021 in all areas

  1. Hey All, I used up all my garage time last weekend trying to drop my oil pan. I used every trick I knew of--hammered it with a rubber hammer, hammered it with a 2x4 and ball peen, chipped away at the gasket with a putty knife, sprayed the heck out of the gasket edge with Gumout and PB Blaster, talked to it softly, swore at it, and used up all my resolve to not go at it with a prybar. No luck. I'd like to know what they used for sealant, because the next time I have to weld something, I'm going to use that instead. I'm sure what I'm about to describe has already been done by someone somewhere, but it doesn't seem to be in the internet lore of how to remove a stubborn oil pan, so here it is for posterity. 1. Go into your basement and get an ugly hand saw. Everyone has one, don't be ashamed. They're made of spring steel, which is perfect for what we're about to do. 2. Unscrew and toss the crappy handle. Take the saw to the grinder, grind off the teeth, and make something like a sharpened, beveled edge along where the teeth used to be. Next, you're going to break the saw into 2" squares. 2. Score lines with a dremel and cut-off wheel, marking out the squares. Draw lines with a sharpie, if you want to get fancy. 3 or 4 light passes on each line should do it. 3. Clamp along the lines in your vise, and you should have a pretty clean break at the scored line. Keep going until you have a bunch of little square blades---if you laid out your squares along the beveled edge you ground earlier, you should have 15-20 little sharpened putty knives. This whole thing shouldn't take more than 10 minutes. 4. Take the blades over to the oil pan. Drive the blades home into the gasket material in the space between the screw holes with a hammer (There wasn't room to swing a hammer around the area where the oil pan meets the block, but I was able to turn the hammer sideways and get some decent whacks in). Tap each one in until it's 1" in, severing the gasket in that area. In some areas that seemed extra stubborn, or near areas I couldn't quite reach, I drove in 3 or 4 of the blades on top of one another, turning them into shims to gently pry the pan off the block. The crudely sharpened edge on the blades cut through the gasket nicely, with little effort. After you've got these all driven in, all that's left to do is to sever the gasket around the holes, which is much easier because you're dealing with less material. Use one of the blades as a chisel, pulling it back out with a vice grips. I had the pan off in about a half hour. -Art
    4 points
  2. Fell into the Dodge realm as Im not a Dodge guy, but my in-laws had this on their farm for years, came from a fellow farmer who got it from Ohio at some point. Never licensed in Iowa so that was fun...bonded titles are interesting in this state. Didnt run when I got it but loved the look...and the price to "tactically acquire it", using a non-mufflered, gas powered skid steer that was way underpowered and a sketchy come-a-long and some friends. Love the look of the cab drew me in while I was cleaning up their farm. FYI this was about 60 seconds from the right front tire blowing out...that is the tire tube you see expanded there...it was deep in some mud
    2 points
  3. It`s been a while, since I started that topic, maybe the one or the other here remembers ... As the topic says, sometimes it is hard to find parts. Sometimes a little pricey due to $ item + $ overseas shipping + $ customs + $ tax + $ € exchange rate. So from time to time I decide for Plan B. Enjoy, if you want. Anyway, since I own my Plymouth, the horn button was a separate button, located at the dash. The internal parts in the steering wheel were mostly missing, just pretty rotten remnants of the base retainer. A parts kit is available, about 85 $ + ... Horn button This is a smart, but tricky construction. My book shows the parts, but first I couldn`t figure out, how these work together. Found a helpful video in the www. Here a link, in case some need to understand it also -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07IULvpDJaI No. - Part - made of: A1 - base retainer (first attempt) - Powdered sugar sprinkler, stainless steel. The first I found was 10€ ... hmmm, the next 1 € (probably so cheap, because almost impossible to open and close) A2 - base retainer / second attempt) - plastic cap of a household cleaner. Surprising stable and the shape inside was so perfect (large spring mount), had to to have it. Needed to craft a replacement (wife`s "wish" ...) B - large spring - spring collection box - had to reduce the pitch a little with the help of a torch. Heat treatment required to keep spring characteristics. Otherwise would have been soft. C - contact plate - brass sheet. An old motorcycle battery box I made long ago. D - contact disc - brass round bar E - actuating spring - spring collecting box F - clip ring - stainless spoke of my old bicycle G - broken horn button repair - plastic drain pipe H - contact - brass ??? I even don`t know the German word for that thing ... last time I used such a ??? I was in kindergarden and crafted a paper windmill. That ??? was the propeller axle. J - contact holder - black nylon piece of any cannibalized domestic machine (there a re sometimes so nice parts inside ...I have got a good collection) Did I miss something ? Hmm think, that`s all. Ohm meter test was successful. Button works. Ready for installation.
    2 points
  4. Hi All! I took a bit of a hiatus! I still have my 1954 Royal, and it has served me well. I recently acquired two new rides (and became a Mopar guy by default)! First ride is a 1951 B-3-B. It is in good shape (once I evicted a critter or two), and I got it started. It does have a rod knock and I will be exploring replacing the crank in the truck. This will split DD duties with the Royal. The other ride is a 1940 Chrysler New Yorker. This is in great shape and hopefully running in the next few days. It will be a weekend cruiser. I am already learning this one will take a bit of patience, as many parts will have to be hunted down or sent out to be rebuilt! I will be bouncing all over the forum pulling from others knowledge and hopefully being able to offer up plenty of my own. Just nice to be back!
    1 point
  5. APRIL 10TH 2021 CLEMENTS TAILGATE BBQ in CLEMENTS, CALIFORNIA Home of the largest meet up of Dodge Pilot-House Era Trucks in the WHOLE WORLD!!! MARS AND JUPITER TOO!!! We get invaded by Vintage Cars and Trucks from other makers, BUT WE DON'T CARE! CUZ WE ARE COOL TRUCKERS AND DON'T MIND THE WEIRDOS! ...at least I don't.....lol Looking forward to seeing everyone again!!!! Woohoo! Its on a private ranch, my ranch, no admission, no tickets to buy, plenty of 6 feet of clearance for everyone!! Big Blocks, Small Blocks, L6, Straight Six, Old Hemi, New Hemi, Modern Hemi, Don't care, just love your ride and share the story! Timothy A. Estrada aka 48Dodger
    1 point
  6. Count me in! Due to the long haul this time I might be inclined to travel in comfort in my C body. Also because Tim is one of "those" B body guys....
    1 point
  7. Update, got my square cut O ring today, fit perfect. It came from jcapartscom on eBay part #AS568A-143. They are also available @ McMaster-Carr. Item # on eBay is 270800755048
    1 point
  8. NAPA/Echlin has a nice web catalog were you can search by car, by Napa number, or competitor number (Not 70 year old Autolite numbers though?). https://www.napaechlin.com/en I looked up the AL869 condenser number and it says in the buyers guide section: So, depending on what model, that was not stated, you have it looks like it might fit. The 1948 Windsor takes a AL868 according to NAPA. P.S. The only thing I don't like about this catalog is, they forgot to put the P-15 Plymouth in the data based. So, you either got to search for 1942 or 1949 Plymouth. The D-24 is in there though.
    1 point
  9. There I fixed it for @Plymouthy Adams, you used the “G” word which is a thread locker......
    1 point
  10. I gave up on the HAMB a few years ago when the inmates began running the insane asylum...shortly thereafter, photobucket decided to hold everyone's pics hostage with their bait and switch policy, so a LOT of useful information on the HAMB has lost its usefulness with the replacement of detailed pics with NOT AVAILABLE cards...what has been posted and linked to here fills in some gaps ?
    1 point
  11. If you want to keep it fairly original and still be a decent cruiser the easiest thing to do would be to find a 52 or later 4 speed. Assuming the rear end you have is say a 3.73 or 3.55 you will hardly ever use 1st gear. It needs to be something like this or you won't have a decent cruising speed. I can't remember the last time I had mine in 1st. It has a 230 with a 52 4 speed and 3.55 rear end. It works just fine as my daily driver. Will easily go over 70.......but honestly the sweet spot is a more leisurely 55. Jeff
    1 point
  12. Last year I replaced all the glass in my 52 Concord except in the back. I ordered them from Bob's Classic Auto. Each of the 8 pieces was a perfect match to the original. I got a front window seal and vent window seal from Steele. The front window seal wasn't cheap but it fit well. The door seals came from Bernbaums and it was in lengths. This was the first time I ordered this kind of stuff so I don't have a comparison. I thought about deleting the vents but that was beyond my expertise.
    1 point
  13. ...... note to self, - don’t bother name calling, swearing, getting all worked up thus raising blood pressure to dangerous levels whilst laying on garage floor /-; Well done , Thank you for posting ?
    1 point
  14. "....For the others who are interested maybe just a little entertainment." I am entertained! Good stuff sir. 48D
    1 point
  15. You might look at some of the basic universal kits with 8 to 12 circuits. These will address your basic stuff and allow add ons as needed for accessories or later up grades. There are several available in the 300.00 neighborhood.
    1 point
  16. Several years ago I needed a fuel cap gasket for the kit car. I ordered a piece of viton from McMaster Carr and cut a new gasket.
    1 point
  17. I've had 4 wheel disc brakes and a dual circuit master cylinder since 1974/75 on my 1940 Dodge.......it stops well, yep, just like a modern car..........I'd forgotten just what drum brakes were like until I bought the 1941 Plymouth in 2007 which had the stock braking system...................I drive/drove my cars regularly, ie, I used to drive the Plymouth to work, a couple of times a week as I did the Dodge..........both offered an "old car driving experience" but at different levels..........for various reasons that had nothing to do with the driving experience I ended up selling the Plymouth in 2013, for which I still regret 7 years later but I still have the Dodge, 50 years this September............and whilst the two cars were different, in a lot a ways they were the same...........so...........drum brakes are what they are, they will never be as good as disc brakes but can be made to stop very well...........so we choose what WE, OURSELVES want and get on with enjoying our OLD cars.............regards from Oz.......Andy Douglas
    1 point
  18. Seems the young folks there do indeed have things under control. Us old farts can be skeptical. ? Glad to hear it all worked out.
    1 point
  19. LOL - I, like @stihl1 was cracking up, thought it was great!
    1 point
  20. Got my locks back from the locksmith today. Both doors and the trunk on one key, the glove box on another. Just under $63 with two of each key. Thanks to Dix Key shop.
    1 point
  21. When it comes to the question as to how far a persons goes to repair an old vehicle, one must access just what the intended use of the vehicle is going to be. If the main use of the vehicle is going to be an occasional drive to church on a nice summer Sunday morning, a trip to the local park for a picnic or the local 4th of July Parade, repair the vehicle to stock standards. If the vehicle is going to be used for cruises to car shows with the family/loved ones in the vehicle, then modern improvements are the better way to go. In today's world everything moves/happens very fast, in a flash what started out to be a quite ride turns into a ten car pile up. Wm.
    1 point
  22. I saw this truck, a '51 Dodge pickup, for sale at a car show, and had admired it when I'd seen it previously, all red and shiny with perfect wide white white walls and spotless interior and immaculate bed, but the price was ridiculously high. I saw it again six months later and made a more reasonable offer, but the owner wouldn't come down, so no deal. Another year goes by, and I see the truck and owner again and I came up a little and the owner said "sold".
    1 point
  23. I've been getting occasional updates about the engine rebuild from the folks at the shop. Last week they got it fired up for the first time, which was awesome to see. They were even nice enough to send me a video. Not sure what's left for this to be complete, but I'm hoping to put it directly on the frame whenever we get it back.
    1 point
  24. LOL, I used my granny gear to cruise out of BTT50’s in 2019, the smell of rain made 1000 cars leave at once ?
    1 point
  25. Bump, ? been a few years since this thread and a lot of new members.....
    1 point
  26. I got them out. I did not expect them to be steel. I thought for sure they would be bronze. I modified a punch to make a small cape chisel. It broke on the third bushing so I reshaped into a shorter one. The last one came out whole. I had a deeper cut with the small hack saw and hit it with the chisel next to the cut. There was some scarring but I took a hone to it to smooth out the bore.
    1 point
  27. https://www.hagerty.com/apps/valuationtools/1947-DeSoto-Custom?id=111437 https://www.nadaguides.com/Cars/1947/Desoto/Custom/4-Door-Sedan/Values Read the definitions for the condition, be honest with oneself as to the condition, then pick that condition and read the valuation. You can add about 15% if it is in California just because people here will pay more... James
    1 point
  28. figured I'd bring Puma to teach those dogs some manners!
    1 point
  29. truck picture B-4-B-116: it was 35°F all afternoon while the Spring Special was blanketed with the rare snowfall ⛄
    1 point
  30. Scroll down a bit to teh head gasket info http://www.moparmontana.com/tech-faq.html
    1 point
  31. Yep! Just about everything is made in China. Does not matter what name is on it. Too many of us (including myself) work around and put up with this crap. We should complain to the sellers and demand quality even if we have to pay more for it. The hubs on my Scarebird kit were of high quality. I inspected them with micrometers, bore gauges, digital calipers, and a vision measuring system. The Dorman dust caps were crap!
    1 point
  32. Your'e short one flare tool to play... Sorry?
    1 point
  33. Some old bastard mixed concrete in the back of my truck. This hunk was pulled out between the bed and cab.
    1 point
  34. This has probably been seen before but Julie saw this on the net.....
    1 point
  35. Spot light switch One of the last things that I always had on the “want to do list” for my truck … My truck is equipped with a spot light on the driver side. But every time I am entering the cockpit I see that missing spot light switch. The market offers a lot of aftermarket and NOS spot lights. Easy to buy a complete replacement - so why plan B ? Then I still would have an incomplete (original !) spot light laying around. And although it shows its wear of life (which my whole PT wears with pride) it is not an alternative for me to exchange it for a new one. The www. search revealed that there exists a lot of different types. Of mine I just got one usable hit. But what was that ?! The pictures showed that the original switch housing is made of a plastic piece, which doesn`t look that nice for my taste. I am not that guy who needs everything absolutely 100% original. But at least it should look like it was made in that era. So I decided that my only option was to fabricate a switch unit myself: Ahh, I am sometimes a bit impatient once I have an idea, so I like it to use materials that are laying around.
    1 point
  36. And here we go again. Don just look at your picture for a moment and stop ranting. Different dimension cuts at three different point. that we can see. Obvious fresh baby blue chevy paint color sprayed and over sprayed on the flywheel. We get it, everything you do is the right thing to do, we all get it and I have seen hundreds of posts how great it is. I have also seen rants on how guys stole your ideas over on Hamb and I believe here. It is too bad you and others thing that retainer is an alignment item because that was never its intention. There is a wide tolerance on t5s and on a833, in fact the a833 was made for Chrysler and later after a 25 year period of time the aluminum case a833 was made for gmc. lots of parts are interchangeable although I can tell you will certainty the retainer is larger. I would venture to say that is what Fred has run into. The retainer hole on the AoK adapter plate is a red herring. That is not how they are precision aligning it, nor should they. Again I get it, lots of guys who love to puff out their chests here and show how smart they are. Its all good, but then when I graduated as an automotive engineer I was only 2nd in my class of 83. I am sure others here were 1st in their class. Finally since this is the official transmission conversion thread and not the t5 conversion thread as some have mentioned, what I would like to know is how many others have actually replicated their process of conversion more than 1 or 2 times ? I know Tom Langdon has been selling t5 adapters for over 25 years. I am not sure how many years he has been doing it for Mopars. I know George Asche has been going it for at least that long and I have seen 1st hand an a833 conversion that Tim Kingsbury's Dad did in the 1970s which I just have to smile as guys line up to attack or use the back hand slap method on this a833 conversion while pretending to be interested and asking questions. No one is shocked that Don and Adams and others are lining up with their t5 stuff as someone is doing something else. Its clear its just too much to ask for all of the usual suspect to stay in their respective corners. Clearly this entire site has run its course, and the "shark has been jumped" yet again.
    1 point
  37. Excellent 'how-to'. Tim, thanks for bringing it back.
    1 point
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