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From pressure side of oil pump, a hole tapped and plumbed to pump through filter. Then oil returned to block by tapping into the corresponding gallery. Also blocked off this gallery with grub screw just behind where pump is mounted. This to stop any possibility of recirculating oil - ensures it is full flow filtering. Hope this makes sense.

Got my locks back from the locksmith today. Both doors and the trunk on one key, the glove box on another. Just under $63 with two of each key. Thanks to Dix Key shop.

As a rule I don't mind drum brakes. I have all the tools to do a proper drum brake job including a shoe arc machine... That said, the big Desoto at 5000 pounds has a hard time stopping straight from 65 to 70 MPH in a panic stop situation. I also most bought the farm once a couple of years after I purchased it on the Freeway here near San Francisco. At the time the front brakes were working as good as they could be. The car is just too heavy to be doing panic stops from 70. So I had Ralph, who has since sold ECI make a custom disc conversion for me. The other vendors mentioned on this board were not around at that time. It works fine. I do have to do some machining on the discs however as the Desoto uses the "Big Chrysler 8" front end so everything is much larger including the spindles and hubs. On a lighter car using the Chrysler 12 inch drums with them drilled (by that company in LA) for fade control may be a good option. I do wonder (Loren) about the king pin inclination angle and the like when swapping spindles. Since different cars and years have different control arms and uprights...it may work on some cars but not others as far a geometry goes. When I did the 1949 Desoto I used an ECI Disc kit that they sell. I have two issues. The first one was the spindle and hub supplied did not fit correctly. A spacer they supplied was not correct. They ended up making one that was correct once I got all the measurements. The second one they never did address and I had to deal with it. They specified and supplied a grease seal for their hub. After running the car for less than 500 miles I had the hub off and the grease (red) was black. The seal had been worn off. When I contacted the seal maker for the proper shaft size I...I found out that the spindle shaft size was larger then the seal specification. I called the new owner of ECI, he was nice, but they never did anything about it. In the end we lathed the spindle seal area down a few thousands to the seal shaft size. By the way, the seal company told me that that seal did not have a range and was for a particular shaft size only... So, the lesson learned is do not assume that ANY of the companies supplying kits are going to provide something that is 100% OK. Even when they tell you, "I have never had any complaints". A lot of people just punt and never complain or fix the problem without every talking with them. That is why Loren has a point on the subject of using an all factory set up. I also made a rear disc conversion for the '49 (I also did it for the big '47 but it is still sitting on the shelf). The rears are tricky as you have to take an axle and mate it to the hub and then have that hub face lathed perfectly. Then they are a match forever. If you change the axle you have to do it again. You may also have to do it again if you pull the hub off the axle as the key and the final position is important. It is all about the tapper. That is why ECI and others do not like to do rear disc conversions as the disc cannot be mounted perfectly parallel without turning it all with the axle. On the '49 I used a remote power brake booster and a stock 1951 Chrysler Power Brake Master Cylinder with the power brake only pedal. The pedal looks the same on the top half but the bottom half has a different ratio and a different push rod for that ratio. Works too good. If I nail the brakes it would send me out the windshield like some late 1950's early 1960's cars ! My 2 cents worth. James

I saw this truck, a '51 Dodge pickup, for sale at a car show, and had admired it when I'd seen it previously, all red and shiny with perfect wide white white walls and spotless interior and immaculate bed, but the price was ridiculously high. I saw it again six months later and made a more reasonable offer, but the owner wouldn't come down, so no deal. Another year goes by, and I see the truck and owner again and I came up a little and the owner said "sold".

LOL, I used my granny gear to cruise out of BTT50’s in 2019, the smell of rain made 1000 cars leave at once ?

APRIL 10TH 2021 CLEMENTS TAILGATE BBQ in CLEMENTS, CALIFORNIA Home of the largest meet up of Dodge Pilot-House Era Trucks in the WHOLE WORLD!!! MARS AND JUPITER TOO!!! We get invaded by Vintage Cars and Trucks from other makers, BUT WE DON'T CARE! CUZ WE ARE COOL TRUCKERS AND DON'T MIND THE WEIRDOS! ...at least I don't.....lol Looking forward to seeing everyone again!!!! Woohoo! Its on a private ranch, my ranch, no admission, no tickets to buy, plenty of 6 feet of clearance for everyone!! Big Blocks, Small Blocks, L6, Straight Six, Old Hemi, New Hemi, Modern Hemi, Don't care, just love your ride and share the story! Timothy A. Estrada aka 48Dodger

Just curious Sniper, how much HP can be squeezed out of a flathead? By reading several rebuild threads, they seem to be a lot of fun to play with! BTW thanks for passing on your knowledge to us in the hobby and more importantly your son. M

Your point on the parts all being Mopar is fair. But your follow-up post above, listing all the parts one would need to source belies your earlier one, wherein you referred to it as "an easier solution", as, in IMHO anyway, a quality disc brake conversion is a far simpler, and likely more effective solution. Remove the tire, dust cover, drum, springs and backing plate to expose the spindle. Bolt on the adapter plate, slide the hub assembly into place, slip the rotor over the lug studs, use two bolts to secure the caliper and pads, install the new, longer brake line and dust cap and re-mount the tire. Rinse and repeat for the other side. Remove the residual pressure valve from the M/C, bleed your new brakes and take `er out for a test drive. All Mopar? Nope, but it's also not so many parts that a note in the glove box (or in a receipts notebook or spreadsheet) won't suffice. And while the guy down the street is still cleaning and/or refurbishing those 70+ year old Chrysler parts (never mind installing them then fighting, unless he happens to have the special tools, for proper adjustment) you're wheeling your old friend down the road - probably for a good spell before the other guy is even close to being ready. Believe it or not I'm a fan of originality. But when it comes to installing safety items on a car that is driven regularly (seat belts, turn signals and, yes, disc brakes) I'm one who will look the other way. _

To change over from 10 inch Plymouth to 12 inch Chrysler you will need the following: At the front Front spindles, backing plates, drums. At the rear Drums and backing plates. Those pieces are wrecking yard parts from donor cars. I got what I needed for $250. I replaced the shoes, king pins, wheel bearings, springs and hydraulic parts from AB. Because the design is the same the is no engineering to do. You just swap parts. Plymouth wheel bearings, king pins, wheel cylinders and master cylinder are the same part numbers as Chrysler. You won't have to remember where any of your parts came from as they are all Mopar.

There's room for long distance travelers .....just let me know when your're getting here! We've had folks from Australia and Germany. We've had many travelers from Nevada, Oregon, Washington, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Ohio, Tennessee and Arizona. Its more like a family BBQ than a car show.......plenty of Dodge Trucks guys that will have the answer you need, the part you want or understanding your desire to own an old Dodge...lol Sometimes it ain't easy being a Dodge Guy in a sea of Other Brands....but here, you'll feel right at home. 48D

I've been getting occasional updates about the engine rebuild from the folks at the shop. Last week they got it fired up for the first time, which was awesome to see. They were even nice enough to send me a video. Not sure what's left for this to be complete, but I'm hoping to put it directly on the frame whenever we get it back.

Them old cork gaskets get cracks in them when they dry out, so might as well replace'm all while ya can ?

Mike, welcome to the group. I'm not sure what your asking for. Are you looking for help in rebuilding your bench seat? I just finished mine a few weeks ago. If you have specific questions or pics this page is really helpful.

I remember reading about this on the HAMB about the same time as the linked post, where the machinist went into detail with sketches on original oil flow and modified oil flow...this was on a hot rod 230 where they also cross drilled the crankshaft to increase connecting rod oiling...effectively, the block was tapped for full flow oil filter port re-routing on the pump boss; the block pressure galley is bored out slightly to accept a concave plug, so that the plug is installed between the two new tapped ports; with the oil pump reinstalled, the concave plug blocks oil flow from traversing into the block internals directly, as oil flow is redirected out of the block to the full flow filter, then returns to the other tapped port to lubricate the block internals. I recall the HAMB machinist actually installed 2 concave plugs, doubled up for insurance. He reported later that engine ran like a scalded dog ?

I suppose you could say both really. But the original passageway from pump to block is plugged with welch screw so all oil has to go through filter before returning beyond the plug into the same gallery pathway, this time in the block. I looked at JBNeals link and this is nearly the same setup but tapped into the block ( same gallery ) for both into and out of the filter. Also has a plug inserted in the gallery between the two taps. The plumbing on this looks better able to attach to a filter mount up on the firewall or inner guard etc. Largely the same operation with the oil pump though.

send them to yourself from phone by email. It should give you the option to select a small data set before the email sends

Mine is a 201cu, 1938 version. Pics show full flow filter system as adapted and plumbed into the oil pump. You should be able to do something like this that is even tidier as mine is right hand drive version with steering box in the way somewhat.

I really like this one.

Misplaced a photo,clear coat in spring.

Had a couple a-body projects, i needed more work like another hole in my head. But i was browsing kijiji and happened across this 49 later identified as a 51 Fargo. 700 delivered. I just couldnt get over how different the box was,was so cool. Was siezed and kind of rough. When i dragged it into shop it was pouring rain, and i instantly fell in love with the wet rusty sheet metal. Runs like a top, interior ckeaned up,new windshield and a ton of other stuff done. not quite 18 months later and its almost ready for the road

Ok I will play, Been here awhile and never seen this thread before. To be honest, I just came to a point in my life where I thought I wanted to have a old truck to play with and drive. I had a 1951 ford 3/4 ton with a flathead v8 I guess was 1975 or 76 in school. I thought I wanted another. I knew my Uncle had a 50th anniversary edition I could talk him out of. Think it was a 1955. Long story short, I waited too long and it was gone .... What he did have was a 1949 dodge pilothouse up for grabs. I remember the old dodges were the most ugly duckling of all in the 70's, would not be caught dead driving one. Then being 55 years old and wanting a old school truck, looking at the old pilothouse ... I fell in love with it. I took on the 1949 B1C project, life happens moved out of state and never got to finish it. Found a good home for her and gave it away. Then in Texas, I saw a craigslist add for a 1949, fell in love again. Here I am today

I Recently picked up another truck and it makes me laugh at some of the "on the fly" fixes folks make to these trucks. Not talking " rat rods" or "custom" upgrades but, things people do in the name of repairs. Example- glove box door lock Yep, they drilled a hole in the dash to hook a bent rod in it to hold the door closed. ? what have you come acrossed in your builds?

It`s been a while, since I started that topic, maybe the one or the other here remembers ... As the topic says, sometimes it is hard to find parts. Sometimes a little pricey due to $ item + $ overseas shipping + $ customs + $ tax + $ € exchange rate. So from time to time I decide for Plan B. Enjoy, if you want. Anyway, since I own my Plymouth, the horn button was a separate button, located at the dash. The internal parts in the steering wheel were mostly missing, just pretty rotten remnants of the base retainer. A parts kit is available, about 85 $ + ... Horn button This is a smart, but tricky construction. My book shows the parts, but first I couldn`t figure out, how these work together. Found a helpful video in the www. Here a link, in case some need to understand it also -> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=07IULvpDJaI No. - Part - made of: A1 - base retainer (first attempt) - Powdered sugar sprinkler, stainless steel. The first I found was 10€ ... hmmm, the next 1 € (probably so cheap, because almost impossible to open and close) A2 - base retainer / second attempt) - plastic cap of a household cleaner. Surprising stable and the shape inside was so perfect (large spring mount), had to to have it. Needed to craft a replacement (wife`s "wish" ...) B - large spring - spring collection box - had to reduce the pitch a little with the help of a torch. Heat treatment required to keep spring characteristics. Otherwise would have been soft. C - contact plate - brass sheet. An old motorcycle battery box I made long ago. D - contact disc - brass round bar E - actuating spring - spring collecting box F - clip ring - stainless spoke of my old bicycle G - broken horn button repair - plastic drain pipe H - contact - brass ??? I even don`t know the German word for that thing ... last time I used such a ??? I was in kindergarden and crafted a paper windmill. That ??? was the propeller axle. J - contact holder - black nylon piece of any cannibalized domestic machine (there a re sometimes so nice parts inside ...I have got a good collection) Did I miss something ? Hmm think, that`s all. Ohm meter test was successful. Button works. Ready for installation.

I'm confused on your coil connections. + on the coil goes to the distributor, and negative is from ignition.

I also swapped to the Grand Cherokee rear diff and briefly considered using the GC parking brakes until I took a closer look and felt they looked like a total piece of junk. So I opted to stick with the original transmission mounted parking brake. Just my opinion of course Brad

I read technical and reference books about automobiles and their various systems quite often. I crave the new (old) info that I learn. The most exciting book I acquired in recent memory was Dyke's Automotive Encyclopedia. It's a 3” thick tome of all things automotive. A great read for any newbie! Its like the big old bible of automotive. Recently I was reading my Motors Manual about valve guides. They claimed that excessive valve to guide clearance can cause a burnt valve. How so? I don't quite grasp that. Maybe the valve could eventually become cock-eyed in the guide? The valve sealing surface becomes uneven, sealing incomplete? The valve can't cool properly? That would be some serious valve guide clearance wear. I guess so...Pretty sure the average person here would know something was up, and needed attention before things go that bad.

DCJ.........If you have a paper manual I'd suggest read the engine section completely as that will give you the factory terms to use when referencing the engine and its parts..........personally I prefer a paper manual simply because its as authorised by the factory and by reading it you tend to pickup the info without having to rely on moving a mouse or your finger, its just turning a page ..........a scanned electronic copy assumes that however/whoever scanned it didn't miss anything........but me being a Luddite, I look at things that way...........andyd

not truck parts!

Hey there Mr. Moderator... You should know that soliciting for spare parts or goods on the main forums is prohibited. ??

Also, pay close attention to the replacement parts. At least one member here has gotten the wrong disc for the style pressure plate and it was hitting things installed. So if your disc or pressure plate looks different than what you took out make sure you sort it out before you install it.

its the vibration over time that will tell, but my post is based more on the guys just trying to stick new studs on, which I tried and failed with JB and epoxies

I do not see why you could not omit it, you may need shorter bolts for the yoke, I am sure if its been done you will get a comment.

I found the 4 speed gasket set from Vintage Power Wagons, was reasonable and all correct. They are cork gaskets, when I installed them I still applied a thin coat of RTV for my peace of mind. It actually worked out because my kids got extra credit in COVID schooling for doing it. I don't have any input on pulling the parking brake drum. Sorry.

Gave it a shot with the half-an-emblem, made the stud area flat and also flattened the end of the swage screw. The swage screw measured at .21", drilled a .199" hole, filled the hole with JB Weld and pressed the screw into the hole. I had a small depression due to the depth the screw went in, added a small washer turned down to fit the hole and added JB Weld. Set it all in a vice to cure A washer on both sides of the hood panel and tightened it up, as far as 'proof of concept' seems it will will work fine, I am only replacing one on the end of each emblem. Pressing the screw in, it seemed to go too easy, will try a slightly smaller hole for the final ones. will also take down more of the emblem metal and make a larger and thinner 'cut to contour' washer.

Actually, I googled "dodge flathead oil pump rebuild kit" and found some good results on this site...the site search engine has trouble with words less than 4 letters, but google can make up the difference. True story: I had been at one engineering job for not quite 3 months when I was tasked to design a specialized piece of equipment...I did a google search, sent out some emails, within an hour had a quote for the very piece of equipment that was needed for $5k, something that had been on the market for decades...the next day, I was tasked with cleaning the production area while in my office clothes, including making multiple trips to the dumpsters on a blazing August afternoon; the next week, I was formally threatened with termination for pointing out that some military hardware that was about to ship technically was not functional (they shipped it anyway and BOY HOWDY did we land in some hot water!); the next month, I was moved out of the engineering office into a storage room on the far side of the building "to improve efficiency"...about that time, while researching for another project, I found a project expense summary that laid out how management had spent $10k over 5 years trying to internally develop that piece of equipment that this dumb hick had found for half that cost, in about an hour--OOPS made some mighty important ppl get all butthurt vindictive after inadvertently exposing their glaring incompetence...so my google skillz can be simultaneously helpful and maddeningly problematic

Definitely if the pump cover shows signs of leaking replace the oil pump cover gasket....a square profile rubber O- ring. Don't let the outer rotor pump gear fall out. The smaller inner rotor gear cannot fall out. The outer rotor gear needs to stay assembled exactly as is...meaning you could put the rotor gear in face up two ways. Those two gears have a good wear in pattern ...you do not want to change it....otherwise possibly causing slightly lower oil pressure.

At 40 psi hotI would re use a proven component.

Are you referencing the photos linked by @linus6948 supposedly hosted on Google Photos? That link didn't work for me and I have multiple free Google accounts (because I'm special as you know). I've had good luck hosting images on imgur. With the app on my phone and their very functional website for my desktop, I'm able to quickly get images up to share. Just sayin'... You can use imgur too! https://imgur.com

Not quite that old my friend. I did tell my son it was going to be a trebuchet when he came over to help me finish the job.

Sill from Pacheco Pass...

oh no, the Corolla virus has infected the BBQ thread!! better wear a mask Paul! ok, no more responses from me for 14days

you did it wrong. campbells soup cans are the professional way to do it. if you use hormel chili the red cap from the can can also be used as a tail light lense edit: I added a pic of my ramcharger exhaust- this can was goya black beans and lasted a few months before I swapped to headers and new duals! also please note my pebble beach level of fit and finish- the clamps are clocked the same as are the slots in the screws. Professional.

Mine was a farm truck for years, so it was held together with bailing wire. Loose steering due to crappy tie rod ends? Wire them up. Or if the fan falls apart? Weld it together: Not enough fuel flow? Weld it up.

Honestly, I approve of all these fixes, not sure what everybody worked up about? Ok I add that my 1949 B1C has a B1B front axle under it, you need 2 different spare tires, one for front and one for rear ... and has a 1937 218 engine .... they used what was available

This is how someone repaired one of the rear fenders on my truck. This is after I cut the piece out obviously. Functionally it worked, but cosmetically, not so good!

I remember the old farm truck we had (55 Ford F200) back in the day had a simple hook and eye latch to keep the door closed. Apparently the latch didn't work and it was too troublesome to repair.

I don't have any pics, but the '49 had a knotted dish towel as a gas cap, the '52 parts truck had a balled-up tube sock (white with 3 blue stripes) for an oil cap, the '53 had wadded up newspapers under a bath towel duct-taped over the exposed seat spring

Same truck, "door pulls"