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I have an air hose reel in my garage which recently wouldn't stay in lockdown position. No name on the reel only a small sticker with a model number and S/N. Google search suggested it might be a Sears product (parts not available) or maybe Reelcraft. However a search of the Reelcraft website didn't have the model number. But the website listed a Customer Support number so lI figured I would give it a try. First, a live person answered on the second ring! She confirmed it wasn't one of their standard model numbers but asked me to hold on so she could check a cross reference to OEM models they may have manufactured. She was able to identify it to a current model number, pointed me to the online parts list, repair manual and repair video to guide the repair. Lastly she gave me a list of parts suppliers as they don't sell directly to the public. It doesn't get any better than that for customer service! So if you looking for a hose reel check out Reelcraft!

I'd use your old one...it will not fail. New chinese will. I would not even take it apart unless sludgy.

At 40 psi hotI would re use a proven component.

Hardwood, tile or laminate...........? Sorry, couldn't help myself. ?

Parked in the boss's spot...doh!?

Go to your dmv office. There’s got to be a process for that.

Hi all, have just joined this site and am impressed with all the information and knowledge available here. I have purchased a 49 Dodge D32S Special Deluxe and of course have a few questions. Location of a chassis number? It has an alloy tag on the firewall but is there a stamped number somewhere? There was no jack with the car and believe the original is a bumper jack, but figure a small trolley jack will do the job? Keen to find out the differences in the different variants of these cars. Cheers Bill

If there be oil weeping from the gaskets, then taking a peek at the innards when replacing the gasket might not hurt, just to see if there is any obvious signs of excessive wear

Hi, I'd like to join this forum. I have a 1966 PowerWagon that I'm working on, in eastern Pa. It's in really good shape, with a flat bed in the back, but I think the motor is toast, so that's where I need some immediate advice. I'm new to old cars/trucks and flatheads I see reference to a membership form but can't seem to find it. i have registered on the site, obviously. Thanks, Dan S.

No sludge, drove the car 3500 miles last summer.

not sure if this helps, but I am still running the original horns on my 51 without an issue been over a year. since I converted to 12v. But I think the only time my horn ever gets used is for the annual inspection. Not a big horn user here. I think I would check for voltage at the horn when it's not working and go from there.

additional information - B-3 Driver's Manual the transmission section near the end of the manual has the gears labeled for the 3spd

I'm out of town and can't check, but I think the tolerances are in the repair manual. In any case, if you were getting 40 lbs before you'll probably be fine reusing it. If you start losing pressure, it's easy to access and replace later if need be. _

While I'm not sure about how lock washers or split washers would affect torque ratings or values, yes they do belong there, this is from the parts manual, and I also just went to check the block and associated parts that I got back from the Machine Shop which was stock and it does have lock washers.; Here's some basic Fastener information; 10 tricks engineers need to know about fasteners

My conundrum is this. my TX title has my engine number on it. I plan to build a spare 230 to swap in and spare my original 218 my lead foot. But then no number on the vehicle will match the title and during the annual inspection they are supposed to check that. I might have to go down to the DMV and see about what can be done to get it changed to the actual VIN on the door jamb. Either that or I get to play swap an engine every year for inspection.

we will try and make it...travel restrictions and airports and all....maybe we'll drive out....can't miss a Q!

I have that same heater in my '42 Fargo. Three speed fan switch and cable to control the defrost deflector lever. Heat is controlled by turning on the tap on the engine head at the start of cold weather.

From my experience it isn't consistent across a state. Its a hodge/podge of who was doing it that day. I have had Ohio titles that went to the body, and Ohio titles that go to the engine (that may or may not be there......).

I talked with a repair shop yesterday. Was very helpful. All pro clutch and drive line repair. In Abilene. His opinion was it was not common but happens, needs to look at it to see if repairable. Prices seemed reasonable, roughly $160 labor to replace yoke and re-ballance + cost of new yoke. I will be using them in the future at some point. Imho, I probably bent it removing the old original u-joint ... bend it back and it works fine. I drove it yesterday and while only in town, Am sure the problem is solved.

I've never seen a spec for gaps but 3/16" seems to be about right. I've gapped quite a few cars and sometimes, especially on these older cars, you will have to grind edges and/or weld them up. If you are using filler plus priming and blocking multiple times, gaps close up quick. Once you get your gaps where you like them, make sure to drill and pin the hinges. That way your panels will always go back to that spot. I usually paint everything in pieces with the panels off of the car so pinning them is a must for me. Patience is the key to gapping a car.

Motocicletas Nacional Barcelona 18 de Mayo 1924 Norton flat-tank

Bugatti Type-35B @ Circuit de Monaco in 1931 ?

Thanks for the welcome guys, the Dodge has a 25” flathead, 3 speed manual trans and leather interior. I’m trying to build up a bit more knowledge on this era as I have a bit more knowledge about the 60’s plus. Love the more basic mechanics of these cars. A few more photos, I know what you mean - photos are good. Cheers Bill

As promised, for our Canadian friends that are missing their snow.

And again today. We had some snow the week before Christmas but all that’s left is what blew into the ditches.

Cicuito Internacianal Do Porto 17-Junho-1956 Ferrari 290MM

double clutching is becoming a thing of the past with the most recent "loss" of manual transmission options in most passenger and light vehicles(Dodge being last to eliminate the availability of a manual behind the diesel in their trucks) and even people driving manuals. Despite being young(not so young now), I fondly recall driving "ancient" military vehicles(at least to me, a 17 year old(at that time) driving a M818(deuce and a half type semi) with a 250 Cummins and 5 speed) and the only way was to double clutch. another reason Im sticking with a manual in my truck although not some cool 13 speed as I had initially wanted. Love reading older literature and keeping history alive!

Love the double clutch section, especially "advantages will be readily recognized"

"brittle as a diner saltine" made me laugh out loud!