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I'd been meaning to get a thread started for our project, this site has truly been a huge resource for me so far. We're about a year in working on grandpa's '54 Dodge pickup - I think the VIN has it as a C-1-C 3/4 ton. He was the second owner, the first being the local mailman. Grandpa bought it from him in '56 and used it as a farm truck on his western Kansas farm, partly to haul sheep to the sale barn. He quit driving it after he got a new truck in the '70s sometime, and it had been parked out behind a shed ever since. I don't think the truck has ever moved under its own power in my lifetime, but grandpa swears it was running when he parked it last. My brothers and I used to play around on it when we were kids and I always thought it would be cool to restore. I finally asked him if he'd sell it to me to try to fix up, but he said I could just take it on the condition that I don't bring it back to him. lol. So two Thankgiving's ago, I borrowed a trailer to haul it back home and start in on it. It was a job getting it unstuck and loaded, it was buried in mud up to the axles and did not come easy. Here's a video for your entertainment. https://youtu.be/R6dHknzmZR8 Most of the last year has been spent getting it tore down and cleaned up, I'll post a few more pictures here to bring us up to today.

Living in southern Alberta, Canada, I don’t often get to drive one of my old cars in January. However, so far, this has been what we call an “open” winter. Warm temperatures for us. Above freezing most days and often in to the 40’s or 50’s. Very little snow with roads very decent. I’ve had one of my old cars out quite often through November and December. I had the ‘48 Dodge D25 club coupe out today so this was my first drive of 2021. Woohoo!!

My P15 has no momentary switches, bypass lines, pressure regulators or gauges, or antique mechanical pump leaks. The fuel system is one place where additional complexity is not a good thing. ? I do agree the Carter rotary pump can make a little noise. Here is how I soft-mounted mine so the only time I hear it is when I first turn on the ignition...the sound tells me the pump is running. After engine start I no longer notice it.

I always look topurchase the Carter rebuild kits that are inthe orange box. They have all of the small internal brass parts that the generic rebuild kits donot have. So keep checking ebay and your local swap meets. Pick them up when you ever see one these are getting harder to find but sometimes you luck out. Also get one kit and then it lists the small parts on the top label and then check other carb kits for your specific car and year and you might find that most of the internal parts are used in other kits. Do your homework and it pays off sometimes. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com

Don't be timid about giving the folks at Rhode Island Wiring a call. They will go over your requirements with you to recommend what best serves your needs. They will even advise if something you may be looking at is not the right product. I've been getting wiring for our Terraplane from them. They are very helpful. Although it may appear daunting, the wiring harnesses of these cars are fairly easy to deal with, even if you have missing sections. Routing may be in question if you don't have where it originally went, but that's where we come in ?.

Got it. I moved it just above the shifter but with enough room to hang my fingers out to reach the switch easily.

RI is a great choice...I have installed several in 1946-52 MoPars. Better than Y&Z....weak connector and labeling issues.

Whose gonna join us for the next p15 picnic in Watkins Glen NY? Please click this link to sign up for future emails ->http://eepurl.com/heC-Ov

Save the date! Come join us. Visit Amish markets, Wineries and distilleries, Museums, even sign up for a sail plane flight.

Finally got out to the parts crates, seems I am OK, One on left is from the original engine, right is from ???, but it is front sump and will work. Glad I heard about this difference before everything was assembled. I do notice no baffling in the rear sum pan?

You can try a product called "the Right Stuff" applied sparingly to mating surfaces as previously mentioned. This is in my opinion one of the finest sealers available. I have used it and to date have a very clean garage floor. I hope your teardown and rebuild goes ultra smooth!

if the machined surfaces of the mating parts has not had their surfaces compromised by pry bars and other such bad handling, the gaskets alone are more than adequate for sealing. However if you want added peace of mind, it will not harm to use a sealer where there will not be high heat. Light film only applied with a wiping action of your finger should be more than enough.

Carter bought Airtex and is discontinuing the Airtex products. I spoke to a Carter tech support guy. He seemed to be an honest person (!) who told me that Carter will be happy to sell you a "6v" electric fuel pump, but that their 6v and 12v pumps are the same part number. Also they will likely discontinue the impulse pumps. These changes have apparently occurred within the past year or so. I run Airtex 6v low pressure impulse pumps on my two old Mopars. Last year I ordered another impulse pump as a backup. It was branded as Airtex, but was different. I've never had an issue with the 2 pumps installed on my vehicles. I had previously tried the Carter rotary pump, but I found it obnoxiously loud. Also, I mostly use the electric pump for priming the carb, then turn it off and run using the mechanical pump. I found that the rotary pump restricting the fuel flow to the mechanical pump when it was shut off. I have not had that issue with the impulse pumps. Pete

its bone stock or nothing on this one since I would not ruin a good original by putting any kind of v8 in it.

Agreed I have the same unit in my p15 and its pretty much right up to the steering wheel. It's close enough that I can hang my hand down just right while turning to flick the switch off

Nick, it can go quite a bit higher than that and still cohabitate with the shifter. Look at my installation again:

It looks like you have the signal switch mounted pretty low. You may find it more convenient up closer to the steering wheel. You may want to sit in the seat and see how it feels to use the signals in relation to your hands on the wheel. Here’s a pic of my truck. This works well for me, up under the wheel similar to a modern vehicle. Since it’s not self canceling you will need to be able to reach it easily after a turn so that you can cancel it.

I got my complete harenes from Rhode Island wiring service too. Top quality!

There is a company that makes the wiring harness that looks original. Which is probably what I would do on a resto. I also believe they can supply the proper looking wire for anything you may have added. It's under the links directory at the top of this page. http://www.riwire.com/

? AWESOME.....standing O, brother. 48D

I bought an expensive esab. (Made in china) tig is a whole other art form. overall im happy with my lightning metal sticker. one comment i need to add, and i mention this across any forum with a person that is new to welding. After welding, dont just turn off the lights and go in the house. One errant glowing dingleberry rolls under bench or wherever and parks against a cardboard box, or an oily rag could mean disaster. I always hang out for 1/2 hour and check that the panel i just welded is cool and nothing in the void behind it is smoldering. Same for debris around the shop. fire extinguisher is mandatory, as well as a source of water, i have a pump spray bottle at the ready, in case i catch fire. it happens. Pail of water and a rag at the very least.

This is a video I did a couple years back, may or may not help. 48D Estrada MotorSports 1948-53 Dodge Trucks: Steering Knuckle Kingpin

Regarding the price increases.........if you check what the fuel price was back then with a kit price back then and compare the fuel price now with todays kit price its generally relative...........a plastic kit is just a reconfigured lump of oil.......plus the model market is now maybe less than a 1/4 of what it used to be due to lots of other things to amuse kids........videos,computers,etc, etc..........some of us still build models..........since March last year I have completed 45 or 46 kits......still have 270 car and 75 aircraft kits to go........attached is a pic of the Tower of Model Boxes, ones that I've done since March...........lol................Andy Douglas

If using a large heavy hammer and just a jack stand you are losing a lot of impact shock through the jack stand..... If you feel the need for heat in this instance.. It needs to be hot and fast...oxy acetylene to quickly expand just the axle I beam area and not let that heat soak to the pin and expand it too. 10 minutes with mapp is heating both....won't work very well. Personally I don't like heating a critical part on steering or suspension. A good press or king pin removal tool is needed on some tough pins. A snap-on king pin tool shown. I realize most don't have these tools but some can be rented or have a shop do it. JMO.?

Confirmed just now that the drivers side acts jut like the passenger side. I downgraded video quality and length results seen below. 20210106_101602.mp4 20210106_101524.mp4

Welcome to the group. I am just down the highway from you, I’m in Saskatoon. I have a 1950 Dodge Special Deluxe. I downloaded your picture and reloaded it.

Ok, i left a clue!

I am a master of the bigger the blob the better the job school of metal joining. lol

Not quite that old my friend. I did tell my son it was going to be a trebuchet when he came over to help me finish the job.

And don't call me Shirley.......

You probably already know about the MyMopar resources on Youtube. Here is the Master Tech filmstrip on steering problems with a 49 Plymouth, which is probably pretty similar to your 38.