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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/03/2021 in all areas
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Updating, changed some gears, bearings seals, threw on some color now I am close to reinstalling the transmission back in the truck. I got more intimate with it than I planned on, I ended up building a transmission top holder for my vice to hold it while I worked the top over and I fixed some “worn” parts while I was at it Definitely not perfect but overall, I think it’s better than it was.2 points
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I am sorta at the same stage. I have my old floor cut out. There is just so much access to other items, I am in no hurry to weld in my new floor. I need to replace the bushing on the clutch/brake pedal. The new brake lines connect right there and easy to get to. I need to replace my E-brake cable. I want to paint the frame ... thinking about replacing the cab mounts since they are so easy to reach. Just thinking the floor will be the last thing I put in ... contemplating making it bolt in. I have no idea how much floor repair you need ... just a idea to consider when doing the repairs. I am hesitant to use undercoating on my truck. Paint worked for 70 years in the past, will work as long as I need it the 2nd time around. I live in a dry warm climate so my experience would be different from yours. I am hesitant to use any undercoating or even por15. I can not say anything bad about por15, I have never used it and do not plan to in future. My concern is proper preparation and trapping moisture rust under the product. Same thing with any undercoating. You can cause more danger & harm if not done perfectly. What I do like for weather protection against different salt and ice melt applications is bar&chain oil for your chainsaw. Long video for other issue, but shows the results after 4 years in service.1 point
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I'd just about pack up and move to Kamloops just to watch this beauty glide on by! Nicely done!1 point
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I made my bracket out of 1/8" x 1" steel strap. There are generic alternator brackets available, here are a couple but there are others: https://www.carid.com/spectre/alternator-bracket-mpn-42273.html?view=505407&gclid=Cj0KCQiA88X_BRDUARIsACVMYD94DAB6qsVNoaJ-qaKbvZQ1JJlD4qN-y5t7uGyIb9w6De2vfUAMpMkaAkVSEALw_wcB https://www.motorcityreman.com/getoalbr.html?cmp=googleproducts&kw=getoalbr&gclid=Cj0KCQiA88X_BRDUARIsACVMYD8tSJwBQm0RqjeNv7asK8o8srqZIcLr9vHbLErPWUpPnLx0N3_eHUcaAr4jEALw_wcB Howard Enterprises, where I got my alternator, also sells an adjustable bracket: https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt/Universal-Alternator-Bracket/_i.html?_storecat=70408730161 point
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“I think so Brain, but where are we going to find a duck and a hose at this hour?” +1 on the Drill Dr. I have the smaller model, but it works well. I don’t use it often, and have to re-teach myself how to use it each time, but I like it.1 point
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I went to Ace today and found the E clips as shown in the Ford pics above. They are 3/4" same as Ford. Ebay price $4.50 each plus $3.65 shipping. Ace price .55 each! I thought I may need to buy snap ring pliers at $30, but a little lithium on the clips and I was able to hammer them on. Pedals aren't going anywhere now! Another assembly detail completed. Now I have to connect the business ends of the pedals! I'll soon see if I can release the clutch. I was reading about the procedure of bench bleeding the MC. I don't know if that's important with dry brake lines? Thanks for your advice on this!.1 point
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Sitting in your garage plotting to take over the world........Are you thinking what I'm thinking Pinky?......lol.1 point
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I've done a few of those myself and it really tightens up the shift pattern, takes out a lot of slop. I ended up hand filing the ball sections that were built up to keep the radius consistent with the rest of the ball as well as the slot so I didn't get any binding. Looks good from here!1 point
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CHALLENGE ACCEPTED additional information - shift knobs ? additional information - shift knob threads ?? thinking outside the box, the shifters can be cut directly below the old knob with a hack saw and new threads can be cut for a new knob...sure, the new knob will be maybe 1/2" lower, but I won't tell anybody1 point
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marc, when i did my master i could not find any parts store that had the big e clip needed. i was directed by one store to go to this farmer down the road as he did alot of work on big farm machinery. not only did he have that large size, but when i told him it was for my 54 chrysler he gave me a few for free. look for the farm down the road and you may find the part. capt den1 point
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As far back as I can remember, even when we were just little kids, my dad would have us there with him when he was doing any work on the car or PU. When we were really little all we could do was hand him wrenches, and I think a lot of it was that he just liked to have the company, but we also learned wrenches sizes about as soon as we learned to read anything. Then when we were older, and working on our own projects, he would hang out with us in the shop, giving pointers & helping, too. Often we would be out there till 10:00 at night or later, and he stayed with us. I just lost him in December, and thinking back, it's one of the things I appreciated too little, because he had to get up really early in the morning and get off to work. Way earlier than any of us got up to get on the school bus.1 point
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Thanks to Covid. this is the first year since retiring that I have not toured Europe between Thanksgiving and Christmas , all the other years I did not have the money or a passport.1 point
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Here is my alternator: This is the vendor I used, best price and excellent support: https://www.ebay.com/str/HowardEnt?_trksid=p2047675.l2563 The alternator is a single-wire device, internally regulated. The old regulator can be removed or remain in place as just a junction terminal (I threw my old regulator away and returned the new one that was DOA). This is a simple installation and the ammeter continues to work as designed. Your headlights will be brighter at idle and the battery will stay fully charged. No brainer. You can also see the correct gauge battery cables that are essential to making your starter work at full capacity. https://www.batterycablesusa.com/1-0-gauge-battery-cables-0-awg.html1 point
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Buy it anyhow and leave it in the trunk. Better to have one in the trunk when you go off driving somewhere,than to need one and have to wait a week to have one shipped to you so you can drive back home.1 point
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You may have some luck getting a wheel from Steve Rotholz -Globe Auto Parts. He is located in Selma CA. He loves NOS and stock parts and probably has 6,000 items at his warehouse. His phone is (559) 352-1407. Leave a message if you call. His eBay name is forthebeachonly. I was able to find a steering wheel for my 1954 Chrysler with almost no cracks for $50. He has a pile of steering wheels. 0D993AB8-10C8-4EE6-A69E-83AAD9E18A5B.heic1 point
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go for it. Just get a car that has been recently gone over. Rebuilt engine would be a big +. On your list I don't see a reason for electronic ignition or 12 volt conversion. Just me. The rest I have done to my coupe except for the shoulder belts and all my driving is on country roads.1 point