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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/27/2020 in all areas

  1. Had one of those in the gas station I worked in in high school. The station was owned by the Dodge dealer across the street, we got all the oil changes, tire work, exhaust work and tune ups on all cars three years old or older. We also checked out trade in vehicles for problems that needed addressing. Every trade in that was staying on the lot got the analyser evaluation. Our machine got used on a daily basis. I remember Sam pitching a fit when a 6v positive car showed up cuz there were hook up differences that he never remembered to do before running the tests.
    2 points
  2. Here are two pdfs, one older than the other, that detail the kinds of things you can see with a scope. Older one covers points https://lunardiagnostics.weebly.com/uploads/1/0/4/4/10449663/eti_feb77_scopetheignition_1b__1_.pdf Newer one, no points info to speak of, but nicer pictures. https://www.motor.com/magazinepdfs/052001_04.pdf
    2 points
  3. That's my problem too (hoarding) and so I've heard from others...don't throw anything "important" away because as soon as you do, you will need it! Makes for a somewhat cluttered existence if you don't have a good system for finding stuff. As for whether i will be able to use it, - if I don't or it breaks, I'll follow the owner's manual suggestion to turn on the lights of the head sign and gauges "for display purposes"
    1 point
  4. Had a "John Wayne" on my key chain for about a month.......until it opened up in my pocket, cut through the liner and dug into my leg pretty good. After that it lived in my glovebox.
    1 point
  5. Before the shop closed, I copied the paperwork from (as far as I could tell) a similar but newer SUN machine that the owner had. I scanned the "Quick Reference " guide, "Owner's Manual" and the blank "Test Report" form that you would use to record your findings. I've attached the "Test Report " form, but the others are too large to post here. PM me and I'd be happy to email you a copy. Atlas Test Report Form
    1 point
  6. I was thinking of a part that would go OVER the output shaft like the flywheel and bolt down using the stock flywheel nut...one that stick out and "mimic" a torque converter. I have also thought of the same for the crankshaft end. Something that would bolt to it and look like a flat plate with 11 inch "flexplate" threaded holes. If I can come up with that, I think that the torqe converter houses like ATI could them mount them into their regular machines and lathe the weld off, change the bearing, and weld them back and an balance them. Next week I am going to call ATI and talk with them. I watched a bunch of videos they have on their site and it I spend the time and money to make the parts...I do not see what they would care about doing it. At that point to them it would be just another converter... If I can make this happen then the jigs would fit in a small box and anyone could barrow them to get their fluid couplings rebuilt. Yes, the little flywheel and clutch would have to be balanced separately, but if it was, I doubt that "mate up" would be any worse than a new clutch hung on an old coupling. I am thinking this is a better way to go. Thoughts? James
    1 point
  7. Well I thoroughly enjoyed the tear down. The easy work! Lol. The real work comes now. Only #1 piston had a broken ring. No others. I’ve still got a few more little bits to remove from the block then its off to the machine shop. I’ll wait to order any new parts until the block and crank pass crack testing.
    1 point
  8. I have a Sun engine analyzer with a "rolladex" index you spin down or up to pick the car or truck you are working on,and it gives you all the specs. Even has an exhaust analyzer you still up the tail pipe to better adjust the carb and timig.Also have the matching distributor machine. I THINK I may have a Sun machine you check starters with too,but can't remember for sure. All that stuff just got covered up when I started getting sick and having other problems maybe 10 years ago. Knew it was obsolete when I bought it all,and didn't care. I figured it would be a lot of fun to play with. BTW,my Sun analyzer is a LOT older that yours. Has stuff like 46 Kaiser's on the rolodex.
    1 point
  9. While not a necessary piece of equipment to do a tune up,I suppose it would save time back in the day...This is one I have in my garage Sun 920...As it says "We Test...Not Guess" ?
    1 point
  10. We see eagles here so often most people take them for granted. Most of the time just seen soaring on the currents, adults and juveniles alike but can be seen occasionally on the ground and sometimes fairly close up. It's hard to realize how big they are until you see one close up. I never have a camera with me either when I see them close up.
    1 point
  11. break out the ohm meter....aftermarket and no paperwork...anyone's guess, the meter KNOWS ALL..TELLS ALL two will be the same contact point with common (find common) as one will go to the dash indicator for high beam...the shared other wire is for the high beams themselves
    1 point
  12. that is the first bald eagle I have seen in this general vicinity....have seen them in northern part of the state and that is seldom. He was something to see for sure....and of course....wife and I both left our phone/camera at home....rare for her...a given for myself...we were no more than 15 foot from this grand bird as we drove past him.
    1 point
  13. LOL, You need to fire your cat
    1 point
  14. Goose neck or Installed? No, but my “HH” has a farmer fabricated receiver ? make sure it is unhooked before lifting the bed. LOL
    1 point
  15. The clearance MoPar suggests at toe/Heel is .006" Ammco .030" smaller than drum diameter..same toe/heel. The type of lining material can require a supposedly specific clearance. A brake guy I used to have a lot of shoes relined over the years once told me to make sure the toe and heel are not the contact areas. Too much toe/heel clearance will of course cause soft springy feel pedal...can also cause the center of the lining to glaze. I have always arc'ed the linings to fit the drums at 90%+ contact to the drums. I always did it by eye...not the micrometer reading. A high firm brake pedal is what the customers need at completion of a brake job.
    1 point
  16. Version 1.0.0

    18 downloads

    Ammco 800 Brake Shoe Grinder Instructions
    1 point
  17. Still haven`t treated the roads by me which is very unusual so I was able to get a chilly ride in.
    1 point
  18. Makes you wish that there was a cure for stupid. I own a T shirt that says "I can fix stupid but it's going to hurt." lol
    1 point
  19. Same type of ‘bucket seat’ I used on my first drive. ? Fun, ain’t it?
    1 point
  20. He was certainly a character. One time he posted a picture of his porch. There was a clock in the background that looked like it had a dodge truck on it. I asked him for a closer pic of it. About a week later the clock showed up in my mailbox!
    1 point
  21. Took it for the first drive today. Transmission sounds good. Still need to do some work on the brakes and getting engine dialed in.
    1 point
  22. Do what they do on the front brakes. They have a castle nut and a cotter pin. Just means you don't torque it to the specified value but rather something less that would be tight but loose enough to turn the bolt from the back of the backing plate. A hundred years ago I had a friend who was a front end and brake mechanic at a Firestone Tire and service shop who advised me of this modification back then and he had done it on many Mopar cars. Requires cross drilling the rear bolts for the cotter pins and getting more castle nuts like used on the front. I did it on my '50 Plymouth back in the mid '60s and more recently on my B1B and '49 Plymouth Suburban. Not something you use very often (how often do you adjust your brakes?) but makes life easy when you do. Never had or used the special tool to adjust brakes. Just spin the wheel, crank the adjuster til it binds, back it off til free, and go to the next adjuster. Regards.
    1 point
  23. Just my two cents worth, but I have been let down by a new Pertronix ignition at a less than desirable time (middle lane of the interstate in rush hour traffic with my MG-B). I am not a fan. Once upon a time they were great but unless things have changed in the last few months, I would not trust one. It took three weeks for them to finally acknowledge that the module was bad so I could get a refund. Many others have had the same issue with them over the last couple of years. As has been mentioned, a properly set up points ignition will work fine. I do a tune up every spring on my 51 Cambridge which includes carefully filing the points and setting the dwell angle and have not been let down.
    1 point
  24. Before spending your hard earned money, I suggest you watch this video. It is very informative and could save you lots of trouble and expense down the road. https://www.motorbiscuit.com/giving-your-old-car-led-headlights-usually-isnt-worth-it/ I intend to drive my 1941 Chrysler Royal quite a bit and for safety's sake was going to update my lighting. This video gave me a lot to think about. Duke
    1 point
  25. This should do the trick! http://www.monroe.com/downloads/install-instructions-guides/MonroeMountingLengthSpecifications.pdf
    1 point
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