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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/17/2020 in all areas

  1. One last, last drive. Two weekends straight in November ?
    2 points
  2. @Conn47D24 Paint the back of the dash gloss white.....you can thank me later when you are standing on your head trying to see what you are doing......lol.
    2 points
  3. Beautiful weather here in PA. My wife and I took about a 90 mile ride yesterday. Stopped for a couple pics on "Headache Hill". Not the last ride, because I intentionally brought her home low on gas. At least one more ride to get gas before the season ends.
    2 points
  4. Looking thru the forum and seeing posts like "Last drive of the season" and "Me and the Meadowbrook" with all the pictures makes me think of my old friend. We never met in person, but I enjoyed his friendship none the less.
    1 point
  5. Hi All, After looking into my specific needs for the upgrading of the 1947 Desoto Suburban, I have decided to not change the current arrangement of using a Fluid Coupling, the Three-Speed and the Borg-Warner overdrive. I had thought about buying the plate from the Gary Stuaffer to use a Torqueflite in the car as the push button version with a rear pump would work well for my cross USA needs. However, I ran across an interesting article that has lead me to abandon that idea. Buried in the SAE Conference Presentation when Chrysler came out with the Powerflite the lead Engineer stated that they purposely picked less stall speed on the converter as they had issues the engines thrust bearings failing. It is interesting to note that when they came out with the Fluid-Torque drive that they changed the design of the rear main bearings and insisted that all Fluid-Torque drive cars get the new not the older designed bearing. The SAE presentation did not go into much detail other than to state the increased offline torque was hammering the bearing. With my heavy car, I don't want to go there as this car will see us through as out MAIN car and also driving around the USA in retirement. Yes, there are some things that I could do to "help" the thrust bearing issue, however that plus the other issues in my specific case tell me to leave well enough alone. The total costs to convert, and do it will all new parts in a first class way, was starting to hit in the $7K to $9K range. A fully new 727, plus the adapter, plus a custom torque converter to make sure the curves work for a six, plus the Gear Venders Overdrive and then all the fabrication and welding. In the end the Benefit-Cost ratio is not there. Yes, I would get better off the line acceleration and 6 forward gears to match the torque of the six and the weight of the car going over the mountains. The cost to do it "correct" is not worth the benfit. Since my three speed is all but new with about 50K miles on it, I suspect it will last a good long time. I also have a complete second three speed with a known good Borg-Warner Overdrive. I can rebuild that one and put it in a crate. The big issue is the fluid couplings. I do not want to get hung out someplace with one leaking or failing when we driving around the USA. I also have the '49 to keep on the road. So, instead of spending a fortune on changing a system that works...I am going to invest in making a jig so that I can properly rebuild two or three fluid couplings. What I am doing is securing a NOS late type sleeve and other parts to the fluid drive seal assembly. I am talking with my machinist about spending the time to draw the things up so they can be made in his CNC. I am talking with American Graphite about reproducing some new manufacture Carbon Seals. I am talking with a couple of spring companies on making the spring. The seals and gaskets are not going to be an issue. We are going to make up a jig so that the fluid couplings can be cut open and the bearing replaced and then welded back together while maintaining the alignment. I think that I would rather spend my time and money on this path then the conversion path. James.
    1 point
  6. 1991, Norms Antique Auto Supply in Iowa, $31.00 ?
    1 point
  7. First photo is my '47 D25 some years ago the day we had our first big dump of the season. By good fortune I had a pre-arranged appointment for 8:00 that morning to get my studded knobbies installed (getting to the tire shop was a challenge). The summer tires are bagged up and in the carrier. Time to swap them out again.
    1 point
  8. 3/8" X 16 tpi. Is the bolt size and thread count per inch. The head thickness where the stud broke off...approximately 3/8" to 1/2" ..Below the stud is just open coolant passage area.
    1 point
  9. 1 point
  10. Your wiper switch is in the wrong location, it's where the tube for the windshield washer should be. If there are two holes in the top center of the dash, the one closest to the windshield should be the washer tube, the other one is for the switch. As Frank notes, that tube goes to windshield division bar. I know someone on the Forum has a photo of the setup, I've seen it posted before. But, if nothing comes up today, I've a friend with a D24 parts car that has it. I'm going to his place tomorrow to help put a roof on his woodshed, I'll get a photo of it for you.
    1 point
  11. Yes. they should be able to help you make that 39-47 tank fit. a little back ground here, i have the registry/forum for the 39-47 series Dodge trucks and went to Tanks, Inc some years ago to task them to consider building a tank that was not available anywhere at the time. i sent them a used one, leaker, but good original shape and they duplicated it, sent me a prototype and after a few changes suggested, which they incorporated, the tank went into production. They ordered a container load from Taiwan, and it has become a best seller. - also duplicates as a universal fit tank then last year, they called and asked again about how it could be made to fit the B series trucks. i had previously fitted it in a 49 truck and provide notes that a bracket would have to be made, and the filler neck hole had to be enlarged to make it work. Apparently, there is enough interest in this so they have now provided the above mentioned instructions to modify and mount it. So, yes, i would NOT hesitate to buy one of these 39-47 tanks from them (or DCM Classics) and perform the fabrications to get you a nice tank for your B Series. As for spring bolts, check your local auto parts store, in the bubble packs for accessories, look for some modern intake manifold bolts/springs - i found some that are almost a match for the originals on our trucks.
    1 point
  12. Yes I do believe the second hole is for a windshield washer tube that comes (from the jiffy jet bottle in the engine compartment)through the top of the dash and a hole in the divider bar......nozzles point at each pane.
    1 point
  13. got the second load of cordwood on. used the 2n (older than the dodge by 6 years) to get the wood into the dump body. just over 48 miles today.
    1 point
  14. 1 point
  15. Nice, I have one too, but the mice got to the jute backing and messed it up, rubber is un-scathed though. Needs a bit of cleaning!
    1 point
  16. Finished making the cover plate. I still need to fasten the upper kick panel to the cab but the at least everything seems to fit.
    1 point
  17. 1 point
  18. Notice both of my pics above, Mr. Green is in my driveway. It’s never been more that 100 ft past my driveway in snow. If the roads are dry, and the sun comes out in the middle of winter I may go for a brief drive. Where there is no traffic or gravel. I’ve been known to do this on Christmas day or Boxing day. It’s becoming an annual tradition for me. If the weather and road conditions allow. Must be: No ice. No salt. No other chemicals on the road. No moisture on roads. No gravel at high speeds to fling about. Sun should be out. Fair day. Colder temps is good! Keeps the roads dry. The cold dense air gives me a little more oomph up the hills. Like a little extra turbo boost!...Then I head out for a Christmas drive. Gets me out from under Momma’s feet in the kitchen, while she prepares the roast beast for the masses.
    1 point
  19. Dates and location announced for 2021 P15 Picnic USA now set. Sept 16 through 19 2021. Watkins Glen, NY Did some recce work yesterday, found Lodging, set dates, and working on itenarary, and attractions for our gathering. Mark your calendars, and scope out the area on the internet, Watkins Glen State Park, Glenn Curtiss Museum, Corning Museum of Glass, Harris Hill Soaring Museum and gliderport. Soaring flights available for a fee. Hopefully some of our Canadian members can make this an international event. Stay tuned for more information as it develops. To be on email list, send your contact info to mark@rdusaclassics.com
    1 point
  20. Received my oil pump and after letting it soak in oil for a couple days, I put everything together. Ran through the same startup procedure to make sure I had oil pressure and then crossed my fingers. SUCCESS!!!! It started a little rough, but once I got everything dialed in its purring.
    1 point
  21. For what its worth I installed a Langdons HEI distributor on the 1941 Plymouth I had....it had been converted to 12 volts before I bought it and as all RHD cars are it originally had a starter button on the dash however when it was converted to 12 volts it had a later key start ignition installed.....anyway prior to the HEI it was a matter of winding the starter over, bit or choke, playing with the gas pedal & it would start ..........after installing the HEI with 45thou plug gaps I could stand outside of the car, lean in thru the open drivers window and turn the key......varoom!!!!!!........... instant start........I would thoroughly recommend the Langdons HEI, this was on a 1941 201 engine, essentially stock but with a Oz GM Holden single barrel Stromberg carby, again that the car came with..........these carbys are a standard replacement here in Oz for the Carter/Ball & Ball as they were used from the late 40's thru to the late 70's and are a bolt on replacement..........anyway the Langdons HEI worked a treat........andyd
    1 point
  22. I rebuild them occasionally and sell them. I install them in my car and test drive all of them to ensure I'm selling someone an overdrive that I know is going to bolt in and work. I bought a "rebuilt" one 14 years ago for my grandfather's car and it didn't work. Spent my 21st birthday trying to figure them out. Ended up doing it though college to help fund tuition. I've lost count of how many I've been though. I've got several on the bench now that I'll have ready to test drive next spring when the car comes out of storage. What part of San Francisco? I grew up by Sacramento, lived in the bay area for awhile. Nobody in modern vehicles seem remember that four drum brakes don't give change on dollar stops. I still get out once and awhile, usually deliver an overdrive or two to fund the trip and trailer treasure acquisitions. I did drive up Lombard street once really, really early one morning in my '40.
    1 point
  23. Might want to read up on Pertronix on this site, lots of issues with it failing.
    1 point
  24. While waiting for the oil pump, my wife decided she didn't like the way original paint was coming out. As we were slowly wet sanding, we realized the previous owner had already removed too much and we were going to end up with a lot of bare metal. So we decided to strip and paint the entire truck. Sent the cab out for sandblasting and I'm pretty happy that there wasn't much rust.
    1 point
  25. 1 point
  26. I got a call yesterday from the driveshaft shop, they said come pick it up After dropping off my old one I left thinking that the price would be in the $700 to $800 range. So when then bill came to $534.64 needless to say I left their shop happy. Brad
    1 point
  27. I am not a fan of disc brakes. I do not feel the change is worth the effort and expense. You have to ask yourself what purpose is served by doing this? If you want better brakes why not up grade to Chrysler or DeSoto 12 inch brakes? They use exactly the same hydraulic parts and since they are exactly the same design, you are not re-engineering the car. A Chrysler Windsor weights 600 lbs more and since it was a premium car it started off with better brakes than a Plymouth. Take time to read the posts on this site and you will see the issues folks have had with this swap. Then ask yourself are you adding value to your car or taking away value? Be honest with yourself on this question, because to some folks a dead stock car has more value than one that's been modified. Nobody knows how successful your modification is or where to get replacement parts. Take a wheel off a Plymouth that has 12 inch Chrysler brakes and you know what you have. Everything fits and works as the factory intended. I ask myself all the time, "Do I really think I can engineer the car better than Chrysler did?" The answer has always been no. My opinion is totally old school and it is just that, my opinion. It's your car do what you want but most of all have fun.
    1 point
  28. I think I'd do the same: Reline the band and keep an eye out for a replacement. I suspect that with the correct (relatively soft) band lining material you will have enough contact area for the brake to hold the vehicle on most slopes. If it won't hold and you don't find a replacement in a reasonable amount of time, the existing drum could be built up with weld or metal spray then turned to the original diameter.
    1 point
  29. I had to have the radiator in my B4B recored years ago - never cooled as well as the old honey-comb and it always leaked. While rebuilding my truck, I found US Radiator online. I got a new, High Efficiency radiator from them. The only fitment problem was that the hose connection to the tank was centered on the side of the tank, not the bottom, so I needed a new, slightly longer upper radiator hose (to replace my other new, upper hose). It was not cheap with sales tax and shipping, but it dropped right in, cools very well (so far) and it does not leak. They have them for your truck, as well. http://www.usradiator.com/radiators/dodge/truck.html
    1 point
  30. Sadly a few years ago talking to one of Bunn's good friends that is into Power Wagons, he told me he knew were all the original molds were for the floor mats. BUT no one would touch them due to low returns on investment. Believe me I pressed him on hooking me up with the owners/holders of the tooling. Was the story real or just hot air, one will never know now. Kinda makes one wonder what else is still lurking in the bushes.
    0 points
  31. You realize now, that people are doing to be wanting you to reline their stuff, lol. I only use my parking brake to hold the car when it's parked so I don't think it's too critical that the reline be perfect. Of course there are times when I am driving and the car is sluggish then the smell of burning brake hits my nose and I realize, oops. I really need a red light for the parking brake.
    0 points
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