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pic of new ride....nice driver except for the brakes....no brakes...

I learned a lot from Don! He was a good guy and I'm glad I got to meet him!

Thanks for the great advice and encouragement, didn't mean to start a 6v vs 12v war, got my ride to start just about instantly right now, also, ordered brake parts and they are coming from Argentina of all places....anyone headed to the Turkey Rod Run in Daytona? I'll be there hopefully in my 48

Factory weld nuts have a square appearance; them other nuts appear to be common hex nuts welded to the rad.support...the top hex nuts might be an interference issue with that rad.shroud under the hood; them other nuts could be used to mount a battering ram or spike if'n ya snap one day and want to go full Road Warrior...never hurts to plan ahead

For reference, the various radiators that are installed on my fleet put the fan blade within 2 inches of the rad.core, as well as the rad.brackets put the rad.core outside of that U-shaped rad.support...maybe your radiator can be shimmed to get that hose to fit better...to make things easier, replace one rad.mtg bolt at a time with a piece of all-thread or a much longer bolt, allowing the radiator to be moved around without muscling it into place...

Well, original would be nice. I thought the Desoto radiator was good enough until finding that the hose configuration is jacked. The worst part is the fan blade comes really close to hitting the hose when I place it between the two fittings. I wish I had pictures from before I tore it down but the camera I used wasn't sufficient and worse, I've lost some pictures. I don't like those flex hoses either. I think with the fan blade being so close one of those would make things even worse. I'm going to check at the local parts store to see what they have in 1-3/4" hoses that aren't stiff as a board. Splicing a hose is definitely an option, especially in the short term. I am going to post a wanted add shortly, who knows I might get lucky! Besides, my luck has to change one of these days Thanks! Brad

What a primo car..so keep it real. People that switch over to 12v are always having some sort of problems. Here in are the teachings of the apostles of Chrysler.

Spent trick or treat morning getting me some treats. Spoils of the pick below. I got the green Power Wagon grill a few years back and its been hanging in on my shop wall. A B1 grill I will swap with the bent up one on my wall for patch panels for TODD, the yellow PW grill, Truck Master 75, horn, glove box door, something special for Brent (we will see if he sees it), and panel truck rear fenders (rough but a good starting point).

How hard are you looking to keep as original? I see several non stock type options. Cut the block outlet angle at the now 30 degree? and make it close and re-weld at angle closer to to needed to make it workable?? I do not like the flex hoses much as the pressure they put on original style radiator outlets, expensive these days for repairs. The ones I have tried are very stiff. Buy two different hoses with the correct curves ( portions of a new hose) for a short distance( one for top another for the bottom curve) with a piece of tubing between the two, muffler tube coated type or stainless?? Paint either black and almost disappear.? Just a couple of options? DJ

Forum member Todd Bracik who owns a pair of D-24's paid me a visit today. He rode with me on the first drive of my new D-24. I was told that my car runs and drives better than his. It was good to have an experienced D-24 man along for the ride. A couple of times I came to a complete stop in 3rd gear and the car accelerated slowly but comfortably. That is one of the main reasons I wanted a fluid drive. Less shifting means less wear and tear on my already defective knees. While here Todd assisted in installing the front tag. Good to spend time with forum members.

Nicholas's team made it to the State meet today. Their times going into the regional meet had them in fourth (maybe third), but their times in the race today put them in second. Stay tuned, state meet is this Friday.

First things to check if it were in my garage would be needle and seat valve and float lever. If there is that much gas on the outside, there is likely that much or more puddled in the intake manifold. So as it sits your car is constantly running rich. I would guess if it's been doing that for a while your spark plugs are fuel fouled. Todays fuel formulas are more prone to expand more from heat than old stuff so many have found a slightly lower, 2 or 3 32nds float level will address the problem assuming your needle valve is closing all the way. Could be as simple as the little clip the holds the float pivot in place is missing or not properly installed.

I was in error, I thought the radiator mounted to the front of the U-Mount, it does not. Had to go back to some hand scribbled notes I made during disassembly before I had any books. The welded nuts on the sides are for the sheetmetal panel that the front clip bolts to, the three on the rear are for the radiator and I show the fronts 'not used?'

10-30: At Hwy 61 Liquor again for some spiced rum (black cherry). My gosh the rum and coke hit me hard later on....cranked some tunes after pizza and cheese bread with the fam. The shadow in the middle is not a dome on top of a building, it's my head and shoulders. ?

10-30: The kids wanted in on a picture. Snapping all these pics reminded me of how grateful I am for digital photos. No money spent on developing the film from the 'ol kodak ?

10-30: After work I fired up the Meadowbrook and made a quick stop at the bank. When I left there, I was driving with the window down because it was so beautiful and some dude on the far side of the street (double lane downtown) hollered at me and said: "Nice car! I took a picture and I'm gonna put it on Facebook! It's gotta be a one of a kind!" I waved and honked the horn. I love it when people appreciate the car. As I kept going, I thought about the original owner (Ray Sebo) driving on these very streets back in the 50s. 70 years later the car still roams these streets. Pic 2: at home to pick up kids.

Thst's true it might not be Chinese related but I love to blame the garbage auto parts shipped from there.? Made my ending years of work extremely frustrating. Yep the older cars and trucks mostly did not use the push rods just the toe of the shoe. New wheel cylinders always came with new pins and assembly lube...not anymore...just hope and pray quality. Re-sleeving is the right/safe way now days.

I recently removed a R10J from a '58 Plymouth 6. The bell housing will also fit the eights. Since it was no use to me in the earlier models I resold it. I can confirm the identity of the one pictured above. as being typical of 57,8. &9.

Hopefully not hy-jacking this thread...Sorry if I am. Engine has 20w40 modern detergent oil. Ethanol-free fuel. 6V system. A secondary 6V electric fuel pump was used here to pre-prime the fuel system, then it was shut off. The engine started here using the mechanical fuel pump only.

Dropped off the last bit of parts today at Rocky Mountain Machine, ran into Bill Schwindt a member of the Dodge Pilot-house Era Truck Club of America. Had a nice talk and saw some photos of his trucks. Was please to see good progress, may be ready for pickup next Friday, not sure where the two months out I was told. Definitely not going to complain about an early Christmas present ?.....

No, I don't have a video. It would be fun though to see how that goes. I'll make a quick video. Been parked 2 weeks. I'll be back with a video later.

This doesn't always ring true. A well maintained 6V Mopar flathead starts up very fast...An example of my car. It's a stock system, the engine tuned up well. 00 battery cables. Clean connections. Good strong battery. A/F mixture, timing, dwell set to a good state of tune. Rarely does the crank make one full revolution, starter driven, when hot or stone cold, and the engine is running. Can 12 volts improve my example?

Nitpickers...bless their hearts If you can address any glaring deficiencies with the car, and feel confident enough to chauffeur loved ones around in it, then that's all that matters...most folks marvel at the oddity of crank windows and metal dashboards and using your upper legs as a cup holder...ppl gripe at me for driving such a plain jane slug of a beat up old Dodge truck on occasion, that I could spend my resources better on something that could spin the tires from stop light to stop light and keep up with I-35 traffic, but I have the QuadCab for that...old cars can be fun just to ride in, let the insecure crybabies nitpick and race each other to the gas station

replace wiring (including battery cables), keep it 6V, make brakes reliable, seat belts (and radial tires) for safety...that should keep ya busy for a few weekends

Make it safe, make it reliable, keep off the interstates, and enjoy it for what it is. A comfortable family car built for 50 mph roads. Kids equal seatbelts. Julianos Rod shop has them in many colors with mounting hardware. Welcome!

Show us pictures please. My opinions: Leave it 6v, leave the points in it, go with the original brakes (rebuilt), drive it...and often. Check out my "Me and the Meadowbrook" thread and you'll understand.

That is exactly why I got the studs too. Milodon 81254 for the studs Milodon 82100 for the nuts and washers I haven't tried them yet.

The Small Things: Instrument Panel Lights A small progress update I failed to mention. I now have working panel lights, and boy are they beautiful. Absolutely wonderful Deco styling. I won't lie, I sat in this car for a bit longer than usual after a short evening drive. A very satisfying fix.

I park my cars in the garage. It's heated and dry. So far no rodents or their evil friends, although I keep traps set. I keep the temp at 50 degrees F, because that's as low as I can set the system. I clean the cars, put fuel stabilizer in the tanks and fill up the fluids. Unhook the batteries and put them on a tender. Check the antifreeze with a tester to make sure it's still good. Put refilled peppermint oil containers in engine bay, interior, and trunk. Put moth balls near the garage doors where rodents are likely to enter. I work on the vehicles on winter weekends, so that's about it. This winter's projects: Replace the cracked dash glass Install a couple more ground straps Install a master disconnect switch Rebuild a couple spare carbs Install the Dynamat kit that's been sitting on my shelf for a couple of years Other projects as time allows. Pete

Another Progress Update: A couple weeks back, I was perusing Facebook Marketplace, where I happened to stumble upon a "motherload" of D29 NOS sheet metal, including (2) RF Fenders, (1) LF Fender, and (2) sets of rear outer fenders. These came to me for a very decent price, and I would be willing to part with a few of them if anyone is interested. I will likely make a classifieds post soon. Anyway, I have test fit the NOS LF fender to replace the tornado-damaged, Bondo-ridden piece that was on the car. One mess on its way out...one to go. If anyone has a lead on a decent '49 Wayfarer 2dr sedan driver door, I would be interested. Stay tuned for some body work.

Small Update for Small Progress: I started going through the electrical system on this fine machine, and noticed that some PO had previously done a half-ass polarity swap. They swapped the battery leads is all. I was suspicious this was the case, or the ammeter was wired backwards because the generator definitely...generates. My lights get brighter upon increasing engine RPM, but my ammeter read discharge. Anyway me, wanting to conform with the more modern vehicular world, left the negative ground oriented battery leads and swapped the ammeter wiring. For those concerned about the radio - this car was not equipped with one. On a wonderful note, the underdash harness is in incredible condition - great news for me. All insulation is still pliable, and doesn't fall apart. Upon completion of my polarity swap, an unexpected thing happened. My headlights now work instantly with the turn of the knob (no fiddling), and so do my parking lights! I didn't mess with any of the engine bay/light harnesses to accomplish this. The only question I have is, can a polarity swap excite some circuits that may have been dead for a while? I don't know if that is possible. I'm not an electrical genius, but not completely incapable of performing electrical work, especially on a car this simple. The car also starts easier, leading me to believe the coil may have been wired backwards (from stock) as well. Picture of functioning parking lights for the first time in who knows how long below: