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The last 3 neighbors that I've done light upgrades for, the very next thing that was noticed was how much cleaning was needed and that the areas needed new paint...that's when I'd agree while walking out the door

Fall cruising in my Windsor isn’t working out so well. Hopefully its melts as quickly as it arrived. I see the white walls sure yellowed up this year. I will need to address that.

Not true on driveshaft unless he has a short wheelbase p22(which from the pic he doesn't).

$700 is a good price. I paid $1,100 for mine. It had been rebuilt with a new 12 volt solenoid, a new 12 volt relay and a drive shaft. There are several sources for wiring diagrams and service manuals, some free. Do not take the short cut of an on/off switch. Your risking the destruction of a rare and expensive item. (don't ask me how I know) The R10 Borg-Warner Overdrive is designed to be Automatic and it works very nicely that way. If you think your car has charm now, just wait! The operation works like this: When you're in second or above and the Governor (a type of speed sensor) says its okay (the trigger speed is adjustable but don't worry about that) lifting the throttle slightly will allow the relay to interrupt the ignition (you'll never feel it) and activate the solenoid which shifts into Overdrive. It takes a little practice to activate in second gear and a certain type of road condition but high gear is easy and you won't even need to think about it. On the highway when you hit a hill which requires full throttle the throttle position will trigger a switch which shifts the Overdrive back into direct drive giving you power to pass or get up the hill without slowing. Once you crest the hill lift throttle and you're back in Overdrive. Of all the cars that had Overdrives available to them, I think the Plymouth benefitted the most. Because Chrysler waited until May of 1952 to offer them, they are kind of rare. I really don't know why that is as the Chrysler engineers had plenty of experience with Underdrives in their semi-automatic transmissions. Properly installed and functioning correctly an Overdrive will really improve your car. I once owned an International Travelall with a B-W T86 3 speed transmission and Overdrive which worked very well. I absolutely loved its operation! Plymouths are not race cars, they were meant to be sensible transportation and the Overdrive makes them even more sensible and pleasant to drive. To install the transmission you will need a shorter driveshaft. That is not really as big a deal as you'd think. Every city I've lived in has a shop which specializes in driveshaft repair and modification. Talk to them before doing any engineering on your own. Next be sure the parking brake is in good shape and adjusted correctly. You will need to be religious about its use! You can't just leave the car in gear when you park it...it will roll. The electrical hook up is very simple if you have the right relay and switch. Plymouth used a switch on the carburetor. If you don't have the bracket they are easy to make and certainly not worth what some people think they are. ( I've seen as high as $250 for a tiny piece of angle with three holes drilled in it! ) A lot of cars used a switch which came up thru the floor to the bottom of the throttle. I've had both and prefer the stock Plymouth set up. When I needed a switch I bought one from a guy on eBay who supplied them for Studebaker owners. Studebaker used a carburetor switch while Ford used a floor switch. The Carburetor switches are much smaller so they will fit and that's the identifier. I can not stress this enough, install the Overdrive as designed with throttle switch and relay. The cable control to lockout the Overdrive is optional only because not having it will not destroy the Overdrive. Its for push starts and parking on hills with an "iffy" parking brake. Once you've used one that's properly set up you'll never consider anything less.

I made good progress on the brakes in the last week or so. I managed to install all of the brake lines so other than filling the MC and bleeding the brakes the brake system is done. Ok, I do have a few clamps to install yet..... If the weather is clear this weekend I'll roll the truck outside and attempt to bleed the brakes. The last vehicle I completely replumbed I had one fitting that seeped a little so I'm hoping things go as well this time. This is the first time I've used copper/nickel tubing and I'm amazed at how easy it is to work with. No more using steel tubing for me! Brad

I believe all the column shifted 3 spds are the same length with the exception of your short wheel base cars. Why they shortened the trans vs the driveshaft IDK.... Dad and I even swapped an OD into a 51 dodge in place of the gyromatic and that didn't require driveshaft mods either

Hey John, On my P-15, I didn't think I had a drain plug either. Turned out it was covered by dirt. Not a lot but enough to cover the plug. Scrape a little bit at the backside area at the 5:00 position just above the bolt holding the diff together. It has a square hole in it instead of a hex to remove the plug. Had to dig mine out to get a rachet in there to remove it. Joe Lee

Moparpro has a used one listed as parts only for a crazy price then there is another guy that has one he thinks works but hasn't tested it for over $2k, both on ebay jump on that $400 unit or we'll see him get it and relist for triple that, at least. Me? I already have two good A833OD's on the shelf. Thinking about the adapter someone mentioned.

If you dont want it Ill take it. Go 9ers

-My OD had to come with another gearbox. The transmission needs a hole for the shiftrail. -The funktion of the kick-down- switch is much too crude for my feeling! -I use the OD- engaging cable and handle because letting engaged the OD You will have free wheeling under 30 mph (disengage speed off the governor switch). I do´t like free wheeling and use a handswitch instead. -the propellershaft was unchanged in my P23/1951 covertible -I like most the rpm reduction of the overdrive, it turns 2100 rpm at 140 kmh = 87 mph (depends on rear axle ratio) - very comfortable for the engine, but not for the driver: the chassis is not made for these speeds as aren´t the brakes. But for long holiday travels, the OD is perfect! I got mine from George Ashe´s - yes, expensive, but he even let me choose a "faster" second gear, which too is very useful if not in the mountains. Fotos: choose "about me": https://p15-d24.com/profile/379-go-fleiter/?tab=field_core_pfield_18 Greetings from Düsseldorf! Go here I fixed the OD- cable with longer heater bolts and a clamp on the heater fixing hardware - no holes needed to be drilled!

I am going to use the truck moving round bales, apple crates, and maybe pull some equipment back and forth between farms. The heaviest pc is a backhoe. And yes, this is still my toy.

Thank a lot Frank, I bought this car at 2016 and unfortunately the last owner no longer had the import papers. The car also had no body plate. The last owner found a brazilian transfer document dated from 2007 with the letters "Detroit" at it.

I put a Finned Oil Filter on the 41 Plymouth I had(it was going to match the finned head, finned intake manifold, finned valve covers, finned coil cover, finned radiator cap cover, finned oil filler cap & finned air cleaners.......do you notice a trend here...lol.)..........it came with a list of 10-12 differing brands of filter elements that would fit, as it was a US made filter that I bought from Speedway Motors all the listings were for US filters........it didn't make any real difference but as it was Finned it made the car feel faster.........items painted Red also have this effect............lol............jeeze I'm a wanker.........better go sit in the corner........lol.............andyd.

DJ, Grand theft Mopar! Video game with 3 on the tree ! ?

Word from the rebuilder is the box can be saved. Most everything inside was junk. Being remanufactured now. Should have it back in a week or so.

Hi all, update: the differential does not have a "drain"plug only a fill plug. So any fluid would have to be sucked out I was lucky mine was pretty much empty ? So with some Redline all is quiet now ! Thanks to all for comments/advice.. Happy motoring !!! : )

Does you pedal have a couple inches of Freeplay before building pressure? If not adjust as require to make Freeplay. Also look in the bottom of the mc reservoir and assure you have 2 open ports. The larger is fluid to the piston, the small one is pressure release. Debris in the relief port can cause brake lock up. When this occurred is the brake lite on? That indicates pressure is not being released. Make sure the reservoir is not over filled and the vent holes in the cap are clear.

Can you work remotely? If you could get it to say AZ for the winter then lots of possibilities. ? Well dreams can help! A big screen TV set up in front of the car with Go-Pro type driving scenes as seen through the windshield? and pretend? DJ

Not a problem, both were about as memorable as the other, lol.

Those old aftermarket switches aren't robust enough for 6 volt operation, especially those with a rotating dial. Make a jumper wire out of ten gauge wire with an inline 20 amp fuse. Power the heater directly from the accessory terminal of the IGN switch. This should power the fan on its high speed setting, which is the default. The original switch works on resistance to decrease voltage reaching the fan to reduce the speed. Those aftermarket switches supposedly do the same thing through a resistance winding, but they create a lot of heat and can be dangerous. After you determine the fans runs when powered through the jumper then you can source a different switch. You also may want to consider running a ground cable from the body to the engine or frame. This will improve the performance of all body grounded electric accessories.

Could still be the ground. I pulled the aftermarket heater out of our D24, but that was so long ago I don't recall where it was grounded to. I pulled a MoPar Deluxe model 36 (same as yours) out of a parts car. As far as I know, it was the original mounting, but what I found odd is that the motor was grounded to the body of the heater. Technically, as long as the grounding circuit makes it back to the battery, that would work. But, since this heater is not original to our D24, I didn't trust that ground to the heater body, too much potential for insulation between the heater and the rest of the car, so I grounded it directly to the car body. To shorten that tale, if your model 36 heater is grounded to itself like mine was, move the ground to someplace on the car body behind the dash.

I could have sworn I replied to this earlier today but I don’t see it now. I hope this isn’t a duplicate. Back in the day the disposable canisters were changed every 8,000 according to the 1936-42 Plymouth Factory Service Manual. The 1933 Plymouth Instruction Book says 8,000 to 10,000 miles. Glancing around the web, a couple thousand miles a year seems to be what most cars of this vintage get, so you are looking at replacing it every 4 or 5 years. Cost for a new filter is between $35 and $45 or between $7 and $8 per year. I don’t think I’d call it a “expensive dumbass thing” at $8/yr, far less than a tank of gas or the oil needed for your seasonal or mileage dependent oil change.

Is it wrong that I want to come to your house and steal your truck?

I realize that the fixtures were free but I would go with LED fixtures and toss the old fixtures. The LED shop fixtures have come way down in price and amazon will deliver them to your door. The difference to use a bad pun is like day and night. They provide such superior light for a shop over fluorescent tubes it is like you removed the roof and let the sun shine in.

Sunday was unfortunately the beginning and end of the season for the P12. Took a trip around the lake here in town and paused at the Community Center for this picture. Inspection on Monday and then back in the garage with hope of more post pandemic auto activities in '21. P.S. Sorry about the wheels, Plymouthy!

Brillman, is a good source for Autolite replacement parts. But it depends on if it’s a IAT, IGS or other model distributor. Fifthavenueinternetgarage, has a good post on R-10 transmission operation. Is it possible that the overdrive tail section just need’s to be topped off with GL-1? The oil might need to soak into the sun gear and parts, if it was drained out dry. If you have a simplified OD, with a toggle switch, you can hurt the OD by trying to take off in first gear, in OD. I was stopped at a locked gate once and couldn’t get reverse till I realized I had to disengage OD at the cable. It pushes a rod forward to stop reverse linkage from engaging when in OD.

One thing to note is that with a depth media type filter being used in a bypass setup is that you don't need to change the filter on every oil change. The original type of filter for 1933 had an additional outlet and the owner’s manual said that you checked the filter periodically by removing the plug on the second outlet to see if clean oil was coming out (engine fully warmed up and at idle). Basically, if the media hasn’t developed channels (letting unfiltered oil through) and it hasn’t been totally clogged up, then it was still good. The later filters don’t have that second outlet port so you can’t do that test. My personal test is to feel the outside of the filter after a long hard drive. If the filter feels really hot (i.e. hot engine oil is going through it) it is still good. If it is only at the general temperature of things in the engine compartment, then it may be clogged and I'll replace it. That works out to replacing it every 3 to 7 years with the amount and type of driving I do (even though I change the oil at least once a year). But please, don’t use this technique for checking a modern full flow filter. First, oil will be going through them regardless so they should always be hot after the engine is fully warmed up. Second, they are built with an internal bypass valve which opens if the media becomes clogged which you really, really do not want to happen (it dumps the collected junk into the engine). The only safe thing to do on a modern full flow filter is replace it every oil change. The only reason for bring this up is the filtering systems are different (bypass vs full flow) so the failure modes are different and that affects some of the service requirements. You can safely run the original style bypass filter for multiple oil changes, something that you should never do on a newer car with a full flow filter.

They will be "Brining" the roads where I live before the month is out so I have been trying to get a ride in every chance I get.

Not sure if you guys are interested in seeing more pictures of this car or not, but here is the trunk,this car is so solid

This factory filter is on a 1951 B3D....