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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/18/2020 in all areas

  1. Nope, don’t have all three together. However, you have given me a project for next year. Combine the three. This is the best I can do this year. ?
    2 points
  2. 2020 is all wrapped up for my ‘38. The insurance expires at mid-night tonight. Today we had fair weather. Cloudy. No rain. 47 F. Heater was on. The driver window down for arm turn signals. I put on about 70 miles today. It was a nice back country cruise. Total miles in my ‘38 this year is 1553. 2500 KM for my fellow Canadians. A great year. I learned a ton this year. My perception of the general public has improved somewhat too! I’ve met so many nice strangers who approached to talk about, and view my car. Among my favourite stops all year was the gas station. That’s where most people approached me. 2020 cruising season was a rough one in many ways. My ‘38 kept things more fun and positive. My maiden year in this car, it never left me stranded. Never saw a tow hook. Sure I ran out of gas 2x, but I’m no longer a rookie. I always had extra gas in the trunk! The bugs were all worked out and the car became better and better, as the miles added up. These are tough old cars. It was 83 years ago that the steel was being made for this car. With the right owner another 83 years is likely achievable. I stopped on the hill home for a final 2020 photo. She pulled the grade well. Running strong. Maintaining 40 mph she zipped right up. Here’s hoping the cruising 2021 season turns out as well!
    2 points
  3. Some dwell meters have multiple scales and/or ranges for a 4, 6 or 8 cylinder. We'll assume you have it setup correctly and are reading the right scale. Smaller gaps increase dwell time. Dwell time is how long the points are closed. So your smaller gap should show more dwell time, though I can't say if 45 is where it ought to be reading with .018" gap. When I got my 51 the gap was also too small, the dwell too much, the timing way retarded and the idle speed was at 1600 rpm. All of those interact with each other to some extent so you will have to go bath and forth double checking till everything is settled down to where it needs to be.
    1 point
  4. its good to see you have your priorities straight
    1 point
  5. Pete to adapt indicators into the fronts you can add dual element pigtails to your parking light fixtures to accept dual filiment bulbs then wire accordingly to power the blinkers. You can do same to rear lights also. I am not familiar with the rear lighting scheme but on my 46, I added motorcycle lamps with brake light fixtures for rear blinkers.
    1 point
  6. Looking out my back window I see my roses are blooming
    1 point
  7. Both my cars had Lynx eye taillight lenses....as Oz 1940 Dodges used 1940 US Plymouth taillights a set of 1940 Plymouth Lynx Eye Tailights still in their boxes was eagerly obtained in 1975 and still in use..........the 1941 Plymouth Lynx Eye centre light was obtained soon after the car purchase in 2007...........they are not common here in Oz...............andyd
    1 point
  8. Yup, I got mine off after reading these posts and watching someone do it on YouTube. The point about pounding the dog bone with a hammer is correct. My shop is in a separate building about 25’ away from the house, my wife was in the house with the radio going and she could still hear me pound away. After about 15-20 hits, which caused the dog bone to basically do one full rotation, the hub popped off. It’s not a process for the timid. Thanks again for the tips, and as the old adage goes “when all else fails use a bigger hammer” ?
    1 point
  9. Gee Paul.... I thought we had a deal and I was going to get the truck?
    1 point
  10. Yep, the suspension attachment points, ie,the upper inner & lower inner pins with their bushes are the same from 1940 to 1954/55, the sway bar attachment is different so you may have to use your 1940 spindle but the king pins are the same 1939 to 1954/55 so then you use the 51 stub axle and king pin assembly and brakes.........take note of the lower outer pin & bush as there are 2 sizes of rubber seal that have an internal hex that fits the actual lower outer hexed head of the "bush" that screws into the spindle........from my fiddling the bush ID for the pin and the OD to screw into the spindle are the same but there are 2 different sized hex heads on that bush...........
    1 point
  11. Indicaters in non American English is turn signals.
    1 point
  12. You did have a good year! Lots of reliable miles. When put away for the winter, remember to go out once a week or so and pump the brakes just to keep up residual pressure. Seeing your ‘38 always gives me a bit of seller’s remorse about my ‘38 Chrysler.
    1 point
  13. This one? I do have a bit of seller’s remorse occasionally.
    1 point
  14. Somebody must play the juvenile, @RobertKB so I will answer with I don't #$&*@$ing know..... LOL! I miss your beautiful Chrysler man, could you post a couple pictures for old times sake?
    1 point
  15. That's the problem, the market for these varies so much. Prices for a basic,reliable, driver are hard to find. It'll never be a show car, I'm afraid. Maybe I'll just throw some snow tires on and run it until someone notices the for sale sign and decides to rescue it!
    1 point
  16. wrapping up another summer of running Ol blue around and had a great drive today, figured I’d share a pic on this thread of fall in Vt.
    1 point
  17. Here’s one from my front yard today, it’s hard to beat a fall B1B pilothouse drive in VT. ?
    1 point
  18. Looking good ! Here's how I got there. Drilled a pilot hole from under the shield ,lined up through the bracket holes. Traced around the hole drill, and scored the paint to minimize damage. Drilled hole , filed the rough edges installed grommets. Assembled lights on chromed top pieces.
    1 point
  19. Improvisation!!! That's what I'm talking about. Necessity is the mother of invention. Looks good.
    1 point
  20. Another use for the ex ww2 Frod 4x4s. Homemade farm hedge cutter powered by the low compression v8 with an identical v8 engine solely driving the ten foot single piece cutting blade. These guys cut farm hedges all around my neck of the woods from the 1940s into the 1990s.
    1 point
  21. 1 point
  22. I would suggest starting by spraying the hinges with a good lube,and then taking a SOFT pine block and a hammer,and GENTLY tapping it to break the windshield loose. The idea here is to use vibrations to break the seal,not brute force. Once it moves even a eighth of an inch,lube the hinges again as well with spray lube to lube up the new opening as far as possible,and then take the same SOFT wooden block and hammer and GENTLY tap is closed again. If you are having trouble,you can try taking a razor knife and cutting the rubber away from the windshield frame to make it easier. When you have done that,tap it open again. "Patience" and "gently" are the two keywords here. This ain't a contest,and it doesn't even have to be finished today. Repeat until it opens all the way.
    1 point
  23. I think the track width is close enough......55.875 track width for the plymouth and 55.1 for the dodge.
    1 point
  24. If he can't use his computer try a smartphone.
    1 point
  25. Right now you are looking at a lot of stuff that, taken together, can seem to be too much. So break it down into sections and take each section one at a time. Focus on getting it running (engine/trans) first, if it doesn't run then stopping and driving is irrelevant. Once it's running get it to stop because if it can't stop you can't drive it, then worry about driving (suspension and steering). A good cleaning and tidying up of the body and interior is good enough till it's safe to drive. I can't help on the price of someone else to do all this other than it'll be way more than it'll be worth in a dollar sense anyway but there is a ton of experience and expertise here to help.
    1 point
  26. Can't speak for anyone else,but I LOVE seeing photos!
    1 point
  27. According to the Mopar 1954 and prior year Passenger Car Parts List published in April 1955,all 1949 - 54 Plymouth steel wheels were 15 x 4.50. Part No.is 1320042. Spoked wheels were available, but no size is indicated.
    1 point
  28. Well.....today is April 27, 2020. I just now discovered the posts about Don Coatney's passing last December while looking for some certain information. Very sad to hear - my condolences to Lisa and his family. As others have said, Don was a good guy and very helpful to many in his posts. He and blueskies had lots of fun carrying on about their big race. I was fortunate to witness that event which occurred in Tulsa in 2007.....during the digging up of the buried 1957 Plymouth. I met with Don on at least 5 occasions...each of which was fun and interesting. Even got to ride one time in the old blue P15 and hear those dual pipes. He will be missed by all who knew him. Thanks for all you did. The "big race" going on in Tulsa: Don has the lead..... I'm just trying to keep up to take a few pics......biueskies is getting on it..... Don and Pete at lunch after the race.......naturally arguing over the bill....... T Thanks for the good times. Bob.
    1 point
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