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wrapping up another summer of running Ol blue around and had a great drive today, figured I’d share a pic on this thread of fall in Vt.

Another use for the ex ww2 Frod 4x4s. Homemade farm hedge cutter powered by the low compression v8 with an identical v8 engine solely driving the ten foot single piece cutting blade. These guys cut farm hedges all around my neck of the woods from the 1940s into the 1990s.

You are a great example for classic car use. I enjoy your no nonsense, humble, posting with the car and often with your family. TKS.

10-16: My son and I gassed up and took a cruise to visit my brother. It was a chilly 32 degrees, so heater on. Thermostat only halfway though, and fan on low. The Meadowbrook ran great at 55mph. I could have driven all night! Maybe tomorrow ?

Shot in the dark, but if you have a general idea where the car has lived throughout the years, and if you can find a friendly and helpful motor vehicles employee, you might be able to come up with a title history. Although they might be rare, friendly and helpful DMV agents do exist. When I bought my`49 Plymouth from the original owner 31 years ago she still had the original Montana title, which I was supposed to have forfeited to the state of Oregon. Instead, the DMV employee I was fortunate enough to get that day made a color photocopy for the state's records and let me keep the original. Ever since that day I've kept my eyes peeled for Bigfoot, UFOs and unicorns, as I've always believed their existence is about as certain as that of a friendly and helpful motor vehicles employee. _

Nick, if you are going to be wet-sanding paint you might want to hold off on the fender welting. The cutting and buffing process is pretty messy.

Normally I consider myself a mellow driver. But when an upbeat song comes on, the accelerator gets pushed and “game on” ? Today on my way back from the home improvement store, I took it off the line against a new Ford Ranger, the 3500 didn’t catch him. (Sighs) seems like I was slow off the line but, I held a steady car length behind him for a good 1/2 mile uphill. Maybe it was the fact he had a new truck? Maybe it was the tonneau cover he had? Maybe it was he was a younger driver? Oh well, I’ll give him that one ?

Even when you do all that it is no guarantee. In my case on the '47 Desoto Suburban, the head was NOS and lightly milled to make sure it was flat. The deck was decked. I used ARP studs. Torque was done by the ARP book. After about 50K miles of San Francisco city hill driving plus running back and forth to Winters California on the I-80, it ate a head gasket. This engine was set up at 8 to 1 compression. The gasket was one of the better than "Best" MOPAR NOS gaskets with the extra copper around the sealant holes that Best does not do. I used copper coat spray on the gaskets and let it hang for 20 minutes before I place it. For my 265 engine. I am going to have a solid copper gasket cut, at a fair cost. James

additional information - steering column clamp bushing

Here’s one from my front yard today, it’s hard to beat a fall B1B pilothouse drive in VT. ?

I have never had to use heat either and wouldn't.

Hard to tell from the picture but do you have the axle nut on? If not, you can seriously injure yourself when the drum pops. Never hammer on the end of the puller into the axle. Ugly damage can occur to axle bearings and/or differential. Always hammer the dogbone HARD as mentioned. Also keep tightening the puller. Even the slightest movement can make a difference. When it pops it will be loud. I have pulled dozens of these drums and have never had to resort to heat or driving the car with axle nut loose. Don’t be shy about pounding that wishbone REALLY HARD!

48ply, the 230 came out of a 48 coronet according to the add. it is coming w a three speed manual still attached. It will replace a 201 now sitting in a 33 dodge dp6. I will have both motors, both trannys, both bellhousings and starters. Thanks, MoparBoy

I finished refurbishing and assembling the heater last night. I think I'm happy with how it came out. The heater was originally a model 62 with a 6-volt motor. Now I think it's a model 61-62-75 because it took that many different heater parts to make it whole again! The model 75 had a 12 volt motor which was handy since I am switching over to 12 volts. I left the motor wires extra long. Originally the ground connection was just connected to a screw on the heater cover and the positive wire was only about 18" long. Right now both wires are about 36" long. Actually installing it the truck was probably the easiest thing I've done so far. It slipped right into place and with no fenders or doors in place yet it was easy to hold the heater against the firewall and install the lock washers and nuts Brad

"Win or lose.......just glad to be in the race and not sittin in the stands wishing I was racing." me.... at Stockton Speedway circa 2006 48D

Mopar-direct has a windshield gasket for your truck for $65, free shipping. I bought WR 2301 vent seals from Metro a few years ago, for my P15 coupes. $80.79 at RockAuto, today. The package will say that it is for a 40 cddp, it’s the correct seal. I’ve used one, on the driver door and it fits.

This is as you say sniper but still problematic for me. It does the filter job and with all the curved lines is serviceable with the small cannister and dexterous hands. The negatives are the tappet access. The new filter housing is attached to the heat shield and also uses one of the front tappet cover studs/nuts to anchor to. This configuration may end up with some alteration if it improves any of these things. You guys with the left hand drive vehicles and no steering box in the mix have way more scope to address this than us downunder. Sometimes you have to make something up as best you can then modify it to find the best configuration. One more pic from another angle....

I suspect that is a 23 inch engine and it is pre war. It has head studs and nuts. Bolts were used on postwar engines. If it is a prewar 23 inch engine , it will be a 201, a 218, or a 230. Only the 230 had an eight bolt crankshaft flange which you will need. Your car had a 251 originally which had a full flow filter which this unit does not have. Your car needs the torque and power of a 251 to get it rolling. a 201 or 218 would not do the job satisfactorily. This may be the right engine in the right car, but your car needs a 251 or 265 (1946 to 1954) or later.

I guess back then we did what we needed to get by

Ahhhh,the "magic" of low-compression,low stress engines! I gotta wonder,though.Just how much did a piston cost back then to make all that worthwhile?

Pulled from a good running 34 Ford, if only they bought a Dodge.

230 Crank stroke is longer therefore rods need to be shorter. Otherwise the pistons would come out of the top of the block opon reaching TDC, See attached for crank casting numbers that should answer what crank you have bought. Info from enginepartswarehouse.com DJ

Ellis developed their dual carb manifolds for 25 inch truck engines than made them for shorter blocks also. I have seen a couple of the larger engines one was a 413 in a K series grain truck, the other was in a truck with a dump body.

No rush to pull the drums... just get them off. That's what I have done for over 50 years. Shop guys cannot wait a day or more for a MoPar,Rambler or Ford drum to decide to pop if ever. It's the life of a mechanic. I realize Hobbiest's have lots of time to wait for the drums to let go after a day two or three if ever. There is no abusing of tools or drum hubs using "enough" needed force to remove tapered hub drums. A lot of people on this forum have no idea how much force is required to remove these drums let alone how hard to hit the puller with a correct weight heavy hammer. And then hitting the Dog Bone accurately hearing that nice ringing sound on the removable type dog bone. Sound of a good solid hit. The "BIG" Snap-On type pullers with the integral DB give no pleasing feed back sounds?

I got all my exotic travels done courtesy of the US Navy. All expenses paid cruises to foreign lands to get shot at. Endless hours watching sea snakes and jelly fish float by in the Persian Gulf as you stand watch on the 25mm cannon. Or circling burning oil tankers while we film it. Iranians playing foolish games. Escorting oil tankers through the Straits of Hormuz while at General Quarters for 17+ hours. Mind numbingly repetitive maintenance tasks keeping the ship in tip top condition. No desire to go anywhere these days I have all the fun I can stand telling whippersnappers to get off my lawn. ?

But you are still driving a minivan

I'm against it. This is not a contest. You are not trying to pull your drum quicker than someone else to save the world from an alien invasion. Just take your big hammer,smack the dogbone on the puller a few times to snug it up good,and then take your a hammer and tap around the "nose" on the drum and the face of the drum. Tension from the puller and vibrations from the tapping will eventually cause the drum to come off without destroying anything. So what if it takes a few days? We all have other cars or truck to drive to work.

I drive lots of vehicles after repairs, some need a little tromp to verify the repair. Too many to mention, but a lot of the v6 cars have some get up and go.

My wife’s 2012 Kia Soul has 15 more horse power than the Hp 1982 Mustang I bought new had. And probably could outrun it. Every year the cars and trucks get faster and faster and our reaction time gets slower and slower. I don’t even try anymore.

The downward trend of the county's IQ began with "Caution - Objects in mirror are closer than they appear"

Well,you have to admit,it IS very good advice.