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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/15/2020 in all areas

  1. Clay Measure and remeasure several time to make sure the hole is the perfect fit. You only have one shot at this onthe painted front gravel shield. Also put some good quality tape down onthe metal plate prior to drilling the hole to help with stopping paint chipping. Slow and easy on the pressure. I know when I drill the holes in my fender for the fender lamps I was totally scared but got through it patience is your friend. Good Luck Rich Hartung
    2 points
  2. Normally I consider myself a mellow driver. But when an upbeat song comes on, the accelerator gets pushed and “game on” ? Today on my way back from the home improvement store, I took it off the line against a new Ford Ranger, the 3500 didn’t catch him. (Sighs) seems like I was slow off the line but, I held a steady car length behind him for a good 1/2 mile uphill. Maybe it was the fact he had a new truck? Maybe it was the tonneau cover he had? Maybe it was he was a younger driver? Oh well, I’ll give him that one ?
    1 point
  3. Update: As recommended I mocked up a mount on a piece of scrap metal. 1 & 1/2 " hole drill worked well. Now to measure ( several times ) and mount to the D24.
    1 point
  4. Well,I am assuming there ARE people out there with maybe less bulge in the middle than you or I. And I hate them ALL!
    1 point
  5. was that YOU who hid my dust collector remote I can't find? ?
    1 point
  6. I just changed oil yesterday, the NapaGold 1080 is the right filter with the right gasket for the filter housing, my Napa had it in stock
    1 point
  7. transmission mounts? again, as i noted earlier, the larger trucks do not have a rubber mount at the bellhousing/frame interface. it is a solid steel connection. the only rubber is at the front of the motor, where it mounts to the front crossmember. no rubber to the rear of that, at all. surprisingly little vibration (none noticeable) with this setup. very long rear driveshaft for my "152".
    1 point
  8. That is exactly how I got the hubs off my 51, I don't even own a puller. BUT! I also do not live in the rust belt. So YMMV.
    1 point
  9. Frank Elder's suggestion is how the mechanics at the dodge dealership I worked at during the mid 60s.popped the tapers. They almost never used the puller. When you are worhing flat rate, pullers take too long.
    1 point
  10. You mean they no longer teach how to modulate your braking during an emergency to keep traction and control? I am pretty sure that was part of my high school’s driver education and training back in the 1960s. I will admit it needs practice and ABS doesn’t require anything more than just pressing the brake as hard as you can.
    1 point
  11. HEY! Watch it,buddy! We don't allow that kind of smutty language around here! ?
    1 point
  12. I hope you did not take the nut off completely, if you did put it back on because when the hub pops loose it'll fly if the nut isn't there to stop it, you don't have to run it up snug just thread it on enough to keep the hub from flying off. BTW, this is my 1000th post here, wee.
    1 point
  13. I live in the country and always dealing with mice, my Chihuahua is a great mouser, we keep a running tally on the whiteboard lol
    1 point
  14. I've been using John Deere Corn Head Grease for years on gearboxes that were cleaned up and re-sealed, and gears turn VERY smoothly...what little grease that seeps out attracts dust, which purty much cakes over that little leak. For best results, fill gearbox as full as possible to displace air and moisture, working gears back and forth to get the grease to settle and flow through the gears and into the bearings
    1 point
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