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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/18/2020 in all areas

  1. I decided to invest in a cylinder bore gauge. I have 4 Mopar flathead engines to deal with at some point. It makes sense to me, to know the wear condition of the blocks. Or at least have fun learning how to blue-print a block. For home hacks, do we need a proper bore gauge? That’s certainly questionable. A Starret or Mitutoyo brand would have been nice. A new Fowler (currently made in China) will suit my needs fine. Measures down to .0005” My new tool arrived today. A spare 1949 Canadian 218 block lays-in-waiting out behind the shed. This evening I spent a little time learning how to use the tool, also brushing up on my math. Stock bore Canadian 218 is 3.375”. A snap T-gauge test told me this block has been bored .040” over. Setting the 3-4” caliper at 3.415”, then zero-ing the bore gauge in the caliper gets me bang-on. (Well close enough, for an old flathead) By now its getting dark outside. I headed out behind the shed with a flashlight. Hmm. Bore seems to be about 0.0015” larger than when it was last rebuilt. That seems reasonable. On the thrust side the bore is about .0004” larger. The cylinder being 0.0025” out of round. Spec in the 1949 Chrysler manual reads “max allowable out of round , 0.002”. Ok, so early indications are we have a tired block that likely needs full machining services. I’ll practice more measuring in the daylight. I’ll measure each cylinder for taper too. Exciting stuff!
    3 points
  2. It's like Christmas morning for adults. The machine shop called and my engine is done. Now time to re-read my shop manual and the engine thread.
    2 points
  3. I also got my leaf springs from ESPO Springs and Things about a year ago. I went with a 1" drop. Springs have been working great and no issues installing.
    2 points
  4. MY FRIEND AND I. WE WENT FOR THE SECOND ANNUAL LOCAL CAR SHOW,, SO MUCH FUN,, GREAT CARS & GREAT PEOPLES,, WE SHOW UP EARLY AND THE FOG WAS STILL THERE ,,MAKES GREAT PICS..
    2 points
  5. sounds like you getting a voltage drop...check your connections both voltage and grounds for clean and tight....
    1 point
  6. Notes about Omniflow epoxy primer coat, the first step in a DYI roll on this solution from Eastwood. Change rollers often. The epoxy mixes with the activator 1:1 which makes it rather runny, so expect it to be messier than you'd think with a roll on. It dried well enough to touch in about 2 hours and dried very well overnight. A more experienced painter may have been able to make this step go on smoother, but for us it will take more sanding than we have experienced with spray on primer, but again, it dried up well so it should sand well too. The bundled kit comes with one gallon of epoxy and one gallon of activator and then two cans of two-part epoxy primer. The gallon seems sufficient for three exterior coats (body, fenders, hood), but given all the nooks and crannies and curves in the cars from this period, a few more cans of spray would be nice. We'll post more notes about this product as we progress.
    1 point
  7. I was referring to the confusion about a 37 dodge 1/2 ton with a long 6
    1 point
  8. another 100 miles in the last two days (61 today). running excellent. got my volvo 240 repaired by replacing the cam plug, will be nice to be back getting 22 to 25 mpg instead of 4 to 6 mpg...
    1 point
  9. Nicholas wont quite like that I painted the first three coats of epoxy primer while he was at school, but we drop into the low 60's tomorrow for about a week so I went ahead. That will allow him to try his hand at guide coat and sanding this week end. Perhaps contouring and seal coat when it's warmer next week.
    1 point
  10. Ahhh,the magical world of Mopar drums,where you will learn to speak many bad words.
    1 point
  11. You need the proper puller. It attaches to 3 studs and has a center that inserts into the center of the axle shaft. It should have 2 hammer ends. Keep the axle nut on. Back it off a few threads to keep the drum from flying across the garage. Don’t ask how I know that. I’m at work so I can’t send a picture of the puller. Also make sure to bolt the puller onto the studs tightly. Don’t ask how I know that either.
    1 point
  12. A slant six durability story from long ago. I was just starting my career with an airline. Mail delivery boy promoted to a clerical job working at our overhaul base flight line. The crew also serviced in use airplanes at the passenger terminal, about 2.5 miles away. When I got there they were using a 61 Ford station wagon as the crew ferry car. That got upgraded to a crew cab, 3/4T Dodge. Slant six with a Torqueflite! Heavy truck, little engine, almost always full of six big guys and tools It may have left the airport grounds once a year. Otherwise 5 mile round trips several times a day. 127 different drivers, none of which had any real interest in preserving the truck. When I got a new job and went to become a computer programmer, it had 125000+ miles on it with absolutely no mechanical problems. Amazing drive train!
    1 point
  13. I figure this is my hobby. May family only loves that I am happy tinkering with my old cars. They get to ride along and smile when we all jump in. They have no interest otherwise. They have no idea on value. I don't expect them to take care of my old cars and spare parts to generate as much money as possible when I am gone. It's all only worth what someone else is willing to pay. That's it. No these aren't old Camaros or Mustangs. They won't be attracting much in the way of dollars. My family can give it all away if they want. They can try getting $xx,xxx dollars if they want. When the cars sit and parts sit unsold for months, perhaps they will lower the asking price. Keep lowering it until potential buyers start to make inquiries. That's how I'd do it today. Used parts? Well old Mopar guys who love the hobby sometimes see young up-comers. Some are apt to give away their spare old used parts to a good home. Where a younger guy will be likely to use them. That's happened to me and I intend to pay it forward when my time comes. Yes, I have a growing pile of spare parts. I find that when I get a good deal on a lot of old parts, paying cash, often that when 1 or 2 spare parts are used, I've already easily saved what I paid for the entire parts lot. I don't care if what's left of the spare parts pile can generate $1 at that point. For example a spare sized engine core. Maybe it costs $75 . A year later you pull the water distribution tube you need. Then your generator bracket cracks. You use the spare. Next thing the old pressure plate and clutch disc on the old engine are good and you use them. You're way ahead now on your initial $75 spend for the whole engine. When I am gone if someone in my family has no interest, so be it. Send it all to scrap if they want. If they want to try sell it, that's fine too. I will be having a chat with my family about market value and how to get it, if they want. While I am here, I will enjoy the cars and the parts immensely.
    1 point
  14. Didn't say it was my first beer.....
    1 point
  15. I would grab the beer first, then do next step
    1 point
  16. My bad. I must have been thinking of someone else with a similar car. Congrats on 47 years of marriage. I bought my '53 Plymouth in 1975, same year I got married. I still have it and my wife although she nearly divorced me when I bought the car. LOL ?
    1 point
  17. Mounted the emergency brake. Got some help from my wife and daughter to try and bring the old paint back to life.
    1 point
  18. I have that miller clip tool...not the easiest thing to use. Buy using grease,two screw drivers, or plastic wedge tools and finesse will get the knuckle support to slide over the factory rubber seals.
    1 point
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