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Are you sure it's the pilot bushing making the noise and not the throw-out bearing?

Thanks for your efforts. Don was always good about helping others. He would approve.

Its my understanding that Don himself lost access to this PB account when a computer died and he didn't have the login information. I'm not going to to trouble Lisa with it - I think I have almost all of the links now that pertain to this car and P15/D24/Pilothouse vehicles in general ( I still can't get a couple of sub folders to load, for whatever reason).

HotRodTractor, Along with others, I am glad to hear you're making the effort to preserve Don's photo record of the build on your P15. Don amazed me at times with some of the detailed photos he would post when questions arose on this forum, ("been there,done that"), ?...along with his helpful advice.

I had the springs re-arched years ago on a 67 Plymouth. In less than a year, they had settled right back down to where they started.

Your experience differs from mine. Release bearings do not move, thus make no noise at all unless The clutch pedal is depressed enough to move the bearing into contact with the pressure plate fingers. The pilot bearing / bushing can only make noise when the input drive gear is moving at a different speed than the crankshaft, clutch depressed. The noise you described above sounds like misadjusted clutch pedal free play allowing the bearing to just lightly touch the fingers at all times.

If you can get the photos we can host them here for everyone. I need to figure out how to do an extra large gallery for all the images. Only issue is the photo links from the threads will broken but we can deal with that later.

thus my comment......why not critical for the most part and often not ever a problem, it is just a step I take to ensure no problem..good through cleaning and inspection is warranted as small particles will imbed here also...after all, it is about the lowest spot of the carb that is a sealing surface... http://www.carburetor-blog.com/the-bb-or-ball-ball-accelerator-circuit-gone-bad/

you cannot do this with the modern standard transmissions today with the interlock safety switch in play....oh for sure you can by pass this if you wish...but not often an easy to get to connection...the modern brake light switch is multifunctional also and also prevent gear selection without brakes fully applied first.....they are tying to make things idiot proof which in turns yields better idiots daily....?

couple of truly important parts in the rebuild kit includes a new accelerator pump plunger and cup and the needle and seat assembly...rest is basic gaskets, a clip or two and of course often new check balls for the pump assy. to be effective...wonder how many here seat these balls first before rebuild?

X2 on Eaton Detroit ... https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/

Good evening, Bob: I have not seen how your car's trunk lid springs are arranged, but let me share some general ideas from the past. Some springs, notably hood springs, which are coil springs (hopefully similar to your trunk springs) can be stretched WHILE NOT ON THE CAR by some outside means (use your own ideas). While holding the spring stretched, place suitable-size washers between each coil, holding them possibly with tape. Now you can release your tension and the spring only shortens a little bit. The washers keep the spring extended enough to easily slip it on to the attachment points. Then when you move the trunk lid to stretch the springs, the washers are released. Think about this principle a little while, it may be useable in your case. Dennis Martin

since my three other vehicles were out of commission (head gasket, transmission, rear cam plug), i had to drive the dodge for work today. i adjusted the timing a bit to 2* atdc, and it ran much better; cooler, with more power. put around 60 miles on it with no issues. glad i got it back on the road, or i would have had to drive the 4runner with the bad transmission...

give this guy an A for creative advertising.....

Stating the obvious, but there is a problem with the charging system. You might start with confirming solid connections at all points in the charging system wiring, especially grounds. If that looks good, you are down to dealing with a faulty generator, regulator or ammeter. Checking the battery voltage with an analog meter while the engine is running will tell if the battery is being charged. A reading less than 7v indicates a weak or inop system. There is a great solution to charging problems but I've already expressed my opinion on that in several threads. ?

I have friends down here so we made a hardware store run. I cleaned all the grease off everything, and epoxied the little pin to the plate. Waiting for it to set and then going to see if I can set the timing. I hope it runs as well as it did before...I took this thing 3000 miles in a week back in June!

The word S N O W cannot be typed in this forum by several members . It's actually considered a swear word and blocked? LOL. This is a test: When its' cold enough and precipitation happens, it often falls as snow. We get more than our share of snow up here in Canada where i live. So I have tools to deal with the snow. My snow shovel is not one of my favourite tools. So I go above and beyond to find other tools to more easily deal with snow. If it never snowed here again, I'd be totally ok with that. Come early March I am very much done with snow. Hate it by that point. However, aside from about 2 areas of Canada, the Vancouver BC and Victoria BC areas, every other square inch of this country gets a fair share of snow. Hmm..I have no trouble typing the in the word snow. Why are others? LOL. Enough swearing...Back to vintage Mopar business.

Try this. Make a five hundred dollar forum contribution at this link Click here!!!! >- http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar/p15d24_site/P15D24_supporters2.php If you do this it will show that you have made some worth while contribution to this forum as opposed to only asking questions, getting answers, and not following the links to answers including the links on this thread. Another option is to send me an up front fee of $80.00 bucks an hour (close to what your mechanic charges) and I will do the (one hour) research (that you do not have time to do) for you. I will report my findings to you so you can get the parts you need to make your car auction ready. This is actually a really good deal as I know where to search and what to look for. Deal, or no deal? I am not kidding nor joking. This is for real....