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A fabulous evening cruise with my wife and the dog tonight. The best weather as the nights are slightly cooler and its darker a bit earlier again. We stopped for ice creme and cruised for about one and a half hours at 25-30 mph, outside of town. I was feeling pretty spoiled in our 53 Chrysler tonight. We’re fortunate to have the choice of another old Mopar. Life is good!

All right, I've been lurking for a while and figure I should finally participate a bit. Already learned a lot just by browsing these forums. She's a work in progress but she's getting there....recently daily drove her for a week and she handled it like a champ. '51 B3B.

Most often I’m just a lurker but I do try to read some posts. I recently retired and one of the big perks is being able to drive my ‘50 almost every day this summer.

I just got an Ebay shipment from Israel that took 8 days. Two days were in New York clearing customs. I thought that was pretty good.

Every Friday. It's the Veteran's T.G.I.F... I usualy go with the bike, a Harley Tri-Glide . Anyway this time I took The Plodge, so is my friend with his 41 International Hotrod.. Time fly , September only a few days away,, should be able to do a 1,000 miles (challenge) this year, so far I log 600 Miles with only minors adjustement.

I had to evacuate my vehicles down to a friend's house due to the fires near my house. Fortunately, after a week, the fire has been contained enough to where we and my junk can return home

Tonight was a fun evening worth sharing. We’re looking after our son’s pup for the weekend. We took him down to the river in the ‘38, for a swim. I bump into an acquaintance. We’re chatting while my wife is down at the water edge with doggie. He mentioned he was chatting with my wife recently. Somehow cars came up in their conversation. My wife had mentioned that “You’d laugh. My husband’s daily driver is a ‘38 Plymouth.” He replied, “Probably all hot-rodded up”. To which she replied, “No it looks like it came right off the farm. It's all stock. It's great!.... Lol. My wife has never told me that! She’s never said my ‘38 was great, to me. Neat to hear about it 3rd hand tho. ? We stop for some fuel. While I was checking the oil. a youngster approached to ask about my car. His family was a couple pumps over, gassing up. He looked To be about 14. Short hair, clean. Freckles. Sorta modern day Opie Griffith. “Excuse me sir, what kind of car is that?” We had a great conversation about all the old cool stuff he’d never heard of. I asked him if he knew much about cars. A bright grin full of braces stared back at me while he nodded and said “Yes!” I pointed out the oil bath filter. 6V, generator positive ground system. Manual steering and 4-drum manual breaks. He replied “my old ATV has drum brakes!” The aaoogah horn got a quick blast. The vacuum wiper motors blew his mind. He asked where the vacuum came from. I closed the LH hood half and we gathered over to the right side. We talked about intake vacuum and traced the hose thru the firewall and up to the wiper motors on the roof.....Beep! His family was honking at him to get back to their truck. They were leaving. Makes it all worth while. When the young kids are fascinated. Given a few more minutes, I’d likely have had him driving my ‘38. I said to my wife as they drove away, “he’s telling his dad about vacuum wipers right now”. Lol. A great night out and my wife loves my ‘38!

I had the old Dodge out for an enjoyable drive this morning. I enjoy living in an area where I don't have to deal with city traffic..?

Hi all! Until recently I really had no reason to look for forums like this, because I had no vintage vehicle, but mainly because it would just make me extremely jealous of all you who have some amazing oldies! When I was a teenager I had a 1973 Dodge Dart Sport - my most fun car ever! My dad taught me how to make my own repairs, so I learned quite a bit. One evening back then, my cousin took my car for a joyride (without asking) and totaled it! Since then, I’ve always wanted to do a restoration. Well, finally after all these years, I had a 1948 Chrysler Windsor dropped in my lap - well, my garage from a close friend who was paying me back for some money I lent him. I did not expect this! But, it’s a great surprise. And, from what I understand, a good car to start with, because there is still a lot of parts out there for it. It’s in relatively decent shape. The body and interior are great, but my friend says it runs slow - not much power. It’s been sitting in a container for the last couple years without running, so I’ll be cleaning out the gas tank and spark plugs, and see if I can get it going. Then take it to a mechanic friend who will do some tests on it to see the extent of work that may be needed to the engine. Anyway, there’s a lot more I can say, but some of you are already asleep, so thanks so much for this forum and site! I’ve been looking around for a couple days now and I know you all will be invaluable in my process! Here’s my new’48!

Thanks Bob....I will be bolting the HDO to concrete and could not find a definite on the mounting question. All Bend Pak installation guides have the anchoring process in the install. The move is complete now....it went better than expected. The lift had a couple inches each side rolling out the 10 foot door with the pump motor still mounted to the column...the shop bay looks plum naked with it removed. The roll across the dirt/grass met some resistance but did not bury down. Most damage done was when I spun the tire on the lawn mower I towed it with with initial positioning of the casters. Set in place on a squared grid...sits dead level, columns plumed even at full height.....checked all safety latch adjustments just as the smart thing to do. The front columns setting left of the lift sorta denotes the size of the one replacing this puppy.

First there's no way you'll get 10 to 1 compression. I won't bother to enumerate the reasons. The question was how to make a higher compression head reliable. (if I may restate it) First, the head must be flat. You may assume a new head is flat. Second, the block must be flat. In nearly 70 years an engine can be brutalized a great deal by over torquing the head. The area around the threads might be raised or there might be corrosion working its way from the water jackets or the combustion chamber. Third, bolts and studs should be changed. They get fatigued just like everything else. ARP studs are the gold standard for quality. Forth, use a thread sealer on the studs and only screw them in enough to protrude into the water jacket less than one thread. Of course the threads should have had a tap run down them to clean things up. Fifth, A sealant can be applied to the gasket. The FIAT guys used to put spray Permatex High Tack on their gaskets and said that was the only way to get them to seal. I never saw a "comeback" so it must have worked or at least did no harm. Sixth, Torque the head to the proper torque, then once started let the engine warm up, then re-torque again. Don't wait a month or two, re-torque on the first start. When I say re-torque that just means run the torque wrench over the studs (you don't need to loosen them first as some modern cars require). If you used a thread lube on initial assembly it will make this re-torquing a lot more accurate. I happen to have read this just last night on a tech tip section of a major engine rebuilder's site (Ferrel's). They also talk about the gaskets available (in this case for Continental Red Seal engines). The gaskets I've seen lately (Best Gasket brand comes to mind) are acceptable.

Thanks, previous owners did the chroming, Fargo even on the rear bumper. I think some of the late 50's Dodge trucks had chrome bumpers and that might be what is on the Dodge.

I cannot see where the filter bowl at the input to the carb is a fuel supply for dropping the hammer...given no action from the pump...there is no manner the carb and extract from this reservoir...it is at best just another sight glass and final containment for heavy particles suspended in the fuel.

The primary sediment bowl is on the fuel pump, whereas the filter bowl before the carburetor is a small reservoir for a standby fuel reserve when the hammer is dropped...so there are technically 4 fuel reservoirs on the truck: carb, filter, pump, tank, with the filter and pump reserves on standby for such instances as starting from a stop with a full load and downshifting while climbing steep grades, allowing a smooth application of shaft power. The filter bowl catches smaller contaminants from entering the carburetor by forcing the fuel through a filtering medium, as by this point the larger contaminants have fallen out of the fuel stream in the pump sediment bowl. Depending on the filter body you have, there are 2 possible pleated fuel filter replacements available...the stone works fine when its clean, but they do degrade over time and can fall apart if they bounce off the shop floor when a case of the butterfingers hits. I've used both and they work well

The D24 is a Dodge engine, 230 cubic inches. This is the 23" flat 6, your Windsor should have come with a 251 flat 6, 25" long. 102 vs 114 hp. https://p15-d24.com/page/p15d24/reference/reference_information.html/

Absolutely, fabulous. Looks like your still 6 volt postive ground. Replace battery cables with larger gauge. invest in a 6 / 12 volt charger.

18 mths ago I had 12 items chromed...........7 inside window garnish moldings all made from steel, 2 front door, 2 rear door, 2 rear side window and 0ne rear window, the 4 original 1940 Oz Dodge door opening kickplates which were originally chromed on a brass extrusion and the Valiant steering column collapsible "can" which was steel............the total was $2090.00 which got me triple chrome, ie, copper,nickel & chrome............be a while before i need any more done.......lol........ andyd

That stone is a filter, believe it or not, and the voids can gum up with varnish..take the stone out and soak it in lacquer thinner for a few days, rinse off with lacquer and repeat...typically that glass bowl should be almost full at idle, with occasional air bubbles forming when the fuel pump shifts out of bypass mode

I did the rusty hope kit sitting next to the truck in the driveway like ten + years ago. Take your time it went real smooth. I did have a buddy turn down some drill bit shanks to fit in my little corded drill.

Welcome to the forum. Lots of great advice here if needed. Sounds like a great car. We all love pictures so when you can post some, that would be great. Personally, glad you are going to keep it stock.

Just for insurance, push that cardboard tube halfway out and apply grease to the bearings, then flip it over and repeat, just to keep the bearings held in place in case ya get a case of the butterfingers... The last time I cold riveted anything, the rivet already had a head formed on one end...maybe that new shaft could be worked before install...which means ya might need to machine out a setting die so ya can whop the bejeezus outta one end of that li'l shaft...but then the other shaft end would need to be mushroomed or welded, so that might be too much work compared to the set screw approach...the last few small shafts I've worked with, I ended up putting a dimple in the middle of the shaft end since they were seated in tight bores...that dimple was just enough to restrict the shaft from coming loose, but still allowed the shaft to rotate a little, allowing for lubrication...

There are some square sockets available. Maybe find one that will work with your tap and ratchet. I have an old tap handle, actually just the center part with the chuck to engage the taps, with a socket welded to it. Ratchet is a lifesaver with big taps and tight quarters.

1/2" square. as in a standard ratchet. Start gently with breaker bar and then 1/2" ratchet will take care of the job! ? DJ

Those are gravel guards for the shocks. They are metal, not rubber. I have them on my '48 Canadian Dodge D25 Club Coupe. The D25 is the same as a P15 except for some Dodge trim. The car also has the regular type of u-joint and not the Detroit joint found on most other older Mopars including my '51 Dodge and '53 Plymouth.

I found it. Roberts has it. The round core is solid and the rubber-coated flange material is very similar in texture to the original Dodge material. This is the same stuff that came with my b3B when I bought the truck. https://www.robertsmotorparts.com/black-windlace-2-doors-dodge-trucks-plymouth-trucks-fargo-trucks-1928-1947-chrysler-dodge-desoto-plymouth-cars-1948-and-older-when-used-1-1 Here's a picture of it from Robert's website:

Welcome. I had a 48 Windsor in high school. Yours is beautiful.

Welcome. Very nice - welcome aboard!

Welcome and what a nice car to start this journey with. As was said above, more pictures please.

We're all liking that car a lot! Glad to see you and the car join us here.

Welcome from down here in the Shakey Isles. Looking forward to seeing and learning more about this fine looking automobile. Great looking car!

same name for cars are immediate...other come to you in the process of work...some still elude me and I have had them for a bit. Mostly a nickname is not important to me but agreed, some just gotta have a name. I still have no name for the one I am deep into now....so far there has been nothing to even suggest a name.

Welcome from me as well. Really great looking car. It will be fun and reliable.

Last night I participated in an organized rolling car tour. We raised $1200 for Multiple Sclerosis. Was a good run. 125 cars participated. At one stop we all drove right through a repair shop. Anyone that could, peeled their tires inside the shop. I did not. Lol. A nice warm evening. Cops showed up to monitor behavior at the wrap up gathering. They were cool as they just observed and made their presence known. Gatherings are frowned upon due to covid. Several cars could have been required to be towed away For various infractions. But all turned out well. My lowly ‘38 can been seen in this one. Met some good folks. Was a good event.

Even though my car isn't drivable right now due to my trying to upgrade the ignition and instead needing to fix more broken parts, I still wanted to share a picture of her after seeing everyone else's beautiful cars. I've been taking the time instead to work on buffing out the old faded paint, and after spending a couple of days on just the front end I've got it to a pretty decent shine.

And before our friends from Oz chime in...it'll looks great from down under...down under the sound proofing and carpet ?

I reckon ya want to go with a sealant that stays somewhat flexible during heat cycling, which isn't exactly JB Weld's forte...also, JB Weld can be a bear to clean out if the welch plug starts to weep at a pinhole from corrosion. FWIW I installed several sets of Dorman steel plugs in dry bores, only one leaked from the center not on its perimeter, and that was over 10 yrs after installation...the sealant is good insurance on eroded bores, but if your bores are clean and robust, it may not be necessary but won't hurt

you know...you put this on your car that will lead you to installing the electric gas cap.....