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A punch and hammer *tink*. Plug came out! Thanks again for all the advice!

I have been keeping the details on the sell price to myself as the deal is far from done. I've had second thoughts about sharing the photos too. However in the spirit of keeping the thread interesting to everyone, I relented. I also know that the photos will attract a good level of participation here. So far the goup's participation has been great and I appreciate it very much. I proposed the car transaction here to learn the good and bad points about Airflow ownership. There is a lot of good knowledge here among the membership. I put a lot of value on this group's advice. The thread has proven valuable to me. I am still awaiting more details on the car, from the seller. It's a fair commitment to travel to see the car. Before I do that, I await the current owner's details on the car's condition. I have good reason to believe he's a solid guy and will offer full disclosure (to his knowledge) on the car. If that comes together, and I like what I learn, I'll then plan a trip to personally view it. At that time, a good thorough inspection by me, may reveal more unknowns. Like missing parts. Condition of major components. Etc. I'll get a better grasp on what I really would be getting into. If ya'll are interested I'll share my adventure as it unfolds. If it unfolds...The Airflow deal could be dead already at this point, as I am waiting for next steps. Fingers crossed I'll hear back soon. These old cars come with emotions. No they are not just cars to most of us here. Somehow this Airflow gives me the ability to own and enjoy my very own piece of Chrysler's legacy. Arguably the pinnacle of Chrysler engineering, the Airflow. Keith

Getting a pretty high reading on the Grumpometer......... ?

I know everybody has an opinion on drums vs disc brakes. On some collector cars you have very little choice as to brake system improvements. Sometimes it's a challenge just to make them drivable. One of the things that has bugged me is picking a good improvement, then not being able to find the replacement parts or what they came off of originally. I've seen many posts about "What kind of rear end and brakes are these?" The neat thing about the Plymouths I know and love (1949-54) they use hydraulic parts that are readily available (reproductions of course) and are the same for all the MoPar cars. So if you can find a 1951 DeSoto 12 inch drum set up it's no challenge to repair or restore it and they really stop good. Being an old racer I've noted that drum brake cars race in a class of their own with other flatheads and 6 cylinders. Once you modify a car with disc brakes it runs with other modernized cars which includes OHV V8s. That may mean next to nothing for the vast majority of people but it is a consideration of mine. (example: La Carrara Pan Americana revival of the Mexican Road Race) On my Plymouth (a 1952 Suburban) I have gone out of my way to keep it all period MoPar (within 5 years update or backdate). The idea being that it is an example of what could have been done during the time it was considered a "late model" car. A Hot Rodder's Hot Rod of the 1950s. Cutting frames for better steering and brakes are only one step away from installing an SBC V8. When you do that it really changes the character of the car and takes away from the charm of it. For my money it would be better to let Detroit do the work and just order a new car. You'll get more for your money and one day in the future your kids will own a "collector car" that was once their Dad's. (think of what a nice Challenger will be worth in 20 years!) The Old Car hobby is all about having fun. Do what gives you the most enjoyment. I've been able to buy lots of highly desirable parts from guys who went the modernization route...cheap! So I do appreciate their version of the hobby. To say a disc brake conversion is easier, more effective and less expensive may or may not be true. Consider the many posts regarding "residual pressure valves" and "dual circuit master cylinders" on this site alone! If there is that much handwringing over disc brake conversions it does not seem easier and less expensive to my mad mind. Finding the right drums and backing plates isn't an engineering project. You're not changing the design at all. Just the size of the brakes. Part of the fun is the hunt!

Hi folks, as fate would have it, somehow a rare car has been offered to me. I wasn't looking. The seller decided to seek me out. A Canadian built 1935 Desoto Airflow. 4 door sedan. A very rare car here it seems. It's pretty hard to let an opportunity such as this slide by. The car is a survivor and all stock it appears. It runs and drives. It really needs a good mechanic and a new home. As mentioned by a Mopar friend, and fellow Mopar lover, "This is the kind of car find that keeps you up at night." I was informed 135 of these cars were originally built in Canada in 1935. Apparently there are three known survivors in Canada. (I can't prove this). What it does tell me, is parts availability may be a real problem. Looking at production numbers in the USA 6,269 Desoto Series SG's were were built. Used parts availability may be very difficult however not impossible. From the photos, overall the car looks pretty darn good. Normal wearing parts will most certainly be required. The car is located in my region, I'd make make arrangements to travel and view it. Before I go too much farther into this car deal, I am interested in hearing about your Airflow experiences. What your reservations might be? Your thoughts about this opportunity. I know ya'll are going to say "Go for it!"...It's easy to spend someone else's money. LOL. I am very comfortable in my mechanical skills to work on this car. However, I am going into it pretty blind at this point from an ownership & cost of maintenance perspective, for this exact model car. The offered sell price seems fair. The photos look good. A visit to see the car will answer 95% of what I need to know. Thanks in advance. Keith

Sounds like a faulty sender to me. The fuel tank sender is a variable resistance device. When the tank if full, and the float is high, the resistance is very low which causes the magnets in the gauge to pull the needle towards the "F" mark. When the tank is empty, and the float is at the bottom, the resistance is higher which weakens the magnetic pull in the gauge and the needle moves towards the "E" mark. By your description the gauge seems to work at first, then starts going backwards. This tells me that as the float goes higher there comes a point where the resistance starts going up again instead of continuing to drop. You may need to pull the fuel tank sender and inspect it further. It can be tested out of the tank with an Ohm meter.

Here is one of the places where I learned about the sulfamic acid. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/radiator-flush-cemicals-question.16278/

Sounds awesome ... I remember a few older cars where it took forever to go from full to 1/2 tank, then the gauge would drop like a rock from there. Love the car. I bought my wife a older 70's Camaro years ago, was a 6 cyl 3 speed floor shift. Father built it for his daughter to drive in high school, was a nice car. I liked it because it was a 6 cyl, I knew the car was not beat on to hard and really was in good shape.

It is not hard to understand this....disappointing yes...but this has been in the making for past two generations...Not as many visionaries today, most folks today can't see past their own reflection in a mirror.

I paid $150 for my R10 with a 218 attached about 6 years ago. Saw an Ebay add for a Plymouth Flathead and Transmission. I just about went right past it because his photos on the ad were pretty dark and hard to see, but I caught a glimpse of what I thought was governor on the side of the transmission. The auction had only about an hour left on it and he had received no bids. Sent him a message to ask if it was an overdrive and by the time he got back to me the auction had ended with zero bids. He verified that it was an indeed an overdrive and that it and the engine were from a 53 Suburban that he was putting a new Gen III Hemi/Automatic in. Said if I wanted I could have it for $150 but had to take both the engine and transmission. He was in Denver and Amarillo was as close as I could get inside my sales territory for work so arranged a business trip to Amarillo and rented a pickup for the week. Made a few customer calls a couple days then that went to Home Depot to buy some lumber to build a cradel for the engine/transmission. Wednesday I drove to Denver, picked it up and drove back to Amarillo. Thursday I drove back to Dallas with a couple of customer visits on the way home. So, I was able to expense the trip to go pick it up as well giving me the R10 and a spare engine for a total of $150.

The Gabriel application listing calls for the same front and rear, so that's what I am planning on using.

After the engine rebuild I was finally able to confirm what I had always suspected that the fairly new rebuilt carb that came on my car was no good. I finally got a new rebuilt unit this morning and as soon as I put it on my engine she started running like the proverbial "Swiss Watch". Took it out for a ride and it is a lot of fun to drive. handles like a go-kart and that 250 six has a lot of pep and low end torque.

I had a 30 over 57 model 230 in my 48 Plymouth coupe with Edgy head, Offenhauser intake, dual Carter Webbers, cast iron headers and Langdon's HEI distributor all in front of a 53 model R10 with 3.90 rear. I also had Rusty Hopes disc brakes. I made multiple round trips from Dallas to SW Missouri which is an 800+ mile round trip with the majority of it on multi lane highways. Would cruise at 70 all day long with no issues. Drove the car short distances of 4-5 miles on the Dallas North Tollway where if you are doing 70 you are getting ran over or receiving lots of a finger up rather than thumbs up. Only problem I ever had with the car on the trips to Missouri was a broken alternator bracket near Vinita, OK on the Will Rodgers Turnpike. A heavy screwdriver and two pair of vice grips got me the last 60 miles or so to Joplin where I could get it welded.

I got a console made by Classic Consoles in Cairo GA today for the 69 chevelle and I must say they do a nice job custom making these to order in the correct colors. I ordered it thru cupholdersplus who is one of their dealers and had the best delivered price hands down by far. The build quality and craftsmanship is outstanding. https://www.cupholdersplus.com/

You are a brave man. That’s quite a project! It will be well worth it when finished. Good luck and keep us posted.

Put a tach on the column today, it has the appropriate nostalgic look and works well.

Replaced the valve seals using a valve spring compressor and an air line made to screw in like a spark plug. I used 90psi of air to keep the valves closed, it worked well. The original seals came out like brittle plastic often shattering into pieces, they were long past their useful life.