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Not so much about more car storage, but rather rolling around on cold concrete when you get older.

How much coffee did you drink before video two ..... Holy cowabunga! I need to hire you Brent...I could get tons more stuff done around here?

If you decide to sell the 53 and aquire the 35 I support you Keith. ?

J-nuts from Tractor Supply are a perfect replacement, thanks Gaige and thanks to everyone that offered help with this.

"The distributor shaft does have a little lateral movement (maybe 1mm - 2mm) in it." If that's true your distributor bushings and possibly the shaft are beyond completely worn out. ...how would you adjust the points? That much slop is a huge problem.

I could hear the Benny Hill theme music in my head as I watched that. ?

About six years ago, I answered a CL ad for a '53 or '54 Corvette project, stored for years in a building just a few miles away. When I arrived, I saw a bunch of other cars that had been stored there as well, including a 1934 Desoto Airflow. The car was remarkably complete (the fender skirts were in the back seat), but had been sitting a long, long time, and would need everything. Although the owner's wife had agreed to meet me at noon, a Corvette dealer had shown up at 10:00 AM and she had already sold him the Vette and the Airflow. She let the Airflow go for $7000.00. It was a fascinating automobile. I would have bought it on the spot. And yes, it did have overdrive as I remember. So advanced and so cool!

I am sure you'll do better on the video than I did, I didn't post it because apparently I had my phone turned the wrong way, so when I "looped it" together it cut the image down in size and my butt was the focus LOL (plus I can't stand to here myself ramble)

With that IGS crossover number, you could try Brillman for parts. Or wait for Rich’s reply. That sure is an odd number, for a P15 distributor.

Tough choices for sure. You really do seem to be enamoured with the ‘38 and working on it and the Airflow would provide similar attractions. Wish I could offer to buy the ‘53 to help you out. ? However, I already have my three old Mopars and a ‘63 Ford ? Fairlane. I sold the ‘38 Chrysler I did a full resto on and still have a small bit of seller’s remorse. But you can sell cars and move on.

Btw here's where some confusion can come into play at some parts stores. Napa echlin pns for these are al62 and al63. A Napa echlin al98 cap is actually a standard al130 which is also a flat 6 cap. Just not the right one here. To boot, some vehicles could have either of the corresponding distributors installed. You can imagine how many cross references have these mixed up. While a standard al63 is actually a universal condenser that's used for these. So again some mix-ups there.

It's an igs-4207-1 distributor cap IGC-1107S . rotor IGS-1016B Cap is standard motor products AL96 Rotor is standard AL98 The standard parts you can get at O'Reilly's.

Getting a pretty high reading on the Grumpometer......... ?

Lol. You’re convinced I’m building a new shop! No it’s not really about stacking cars so I can own more. It's self discipline. Two cars is my limit! Know my limit. Staying within it...For my own sanity...Two is good. Really.

Exactly. I put passenger side in,then while standing outside of truck on passenger side i pulled glass towards right outer window post to seat it tight to window post. Then i placed left glass into center bar, stretched rubber onto glass and worked it into place.evenly across top and bottom until i reached the edge. Then worked edge in. Once you get drivers vertical rubber started, you will need to give glass a couple slaps open handed, to move glass outwards. not a porky slap, just a few light smacks. Once its in, leave it alone for the day,for rubber to settle. Body shop guy says driving it will seat it too. I will be using seam sealer between body and windshield rubber.a very small bead to make it watertight. After i install inside trim.

1 to 2mm is about 1/16 inch. I don't think it would hardly run at all with that amount? I had an indicated .012" slop in mine and that was enough to make it run rough at mid range rpm but it started and idled well. Once inside the distributor I found the advance governor was completely worn out as well. It's not a bad job if you have some experience with mechanics and press / slip fits with bushings. You do need to be pretty fussy to rebuild one correctly. You should also check for bad grounds. The distributor housing needs a good ground to the block. That might be why it changed when you applied pressure? Check the ground strap inside the distributor as well.

As you said......go for it. I love the Airflows. Club member had a ‘37 Chrysler Airflow straight 8. I loved that car. They have a unibody I believe which is different from a frame. Mechanically pretty much the same as other Mopars. Parts unique like trim, grille, some interior pieces probably hard to find so check to see most is there. Another big question is space to put it. Hate to see one of your other two cars outside or sold. Those cars are so unique! I wouldn’t kick it out of my garage for leaking oil. ?

Were these words even event'ed when the flat 6 was popular? Los runs back to his corner

engine runs! didn’t get as far along as i’d hoped. for one thing, i didn’t realize the full pressure oil canister is NOT compatible with the starter on the medium size trucks; i’ll need to figure something out for that. then, i used the distributor from the 251, but after a bit of trying to get combustion, i checked for spark with my timing light and found no spark being produced. so, i swapped the dist from the original engine, and almost immediately had it coughing and sputtering. with a minor adjustment, i had it running. i now have it purring. it starts instantly, and has steady 40 psi oil pressure at operating temperature. the gas line has developed a pinhole leak, so that will need replacing, and several of the coolant hoses leak, so i’ll probably replace them, too. it does have more throttle response than the 237 (no surprise), and seems to be pretty smooth at 3000 rpm. two-speed rear still shifts. maybe tomorrow the transmission et al will go in.

Fair nuf. FEF doesn't drive much so no tissue thus far!

Yep. I would just be surprised it got this far before a problem arose if it has that much slop side to side.

Age is one of the reasons I brought this back up...when my Monroe shocks got about 7-8 yrs old, they started to leak, handling became an issue on lumpy roads, and nose dive was more pronounced on braking especially downgrade. I recently replaced 5 yr old Monroe shocks on the QuadCab as opposite corners started to leak; replacement on all 4 corners substantially improved ride quality and braking with that Cummins had much less nose dive. Shock absorber performance degradation is so subtle that drivers don't know what they're missing until they upgrade to fresh components

Just to clarify the different applications: additional information - shock absorber replacement

Slowly turned the adjustment screw and made a few test drives.. Stopped at two full turns of the adjustment screw. Steering is much better, but still a little play in the steering wheel. Thanks for the tips on where to get the 00EP grease. I found it online at Wally Mart, with no shipping cost. Will get it nest week.. Thanks again, bruce dodge

For whatever reason i couldnt get glass in with both pieces in the rubber. Put passenger side in first then slipped glass into rubber. I used a hook to carefully work rubber over pinch weld. Less than an hour. Need helper. Oh,and a body squeegee and lots of glass cleaner and of course i scraped the fresh paint on my dash.

I dug up the shock absorbers that I pulled off of the '49 1-ton to study them a little more, as they appeared original with the DPCD logo stamped into the dirt shield. I was able to get the p#s off of them and critical dimensions: F -- 1261982 -- 12.38 -- 20.25 R -- 1196294 -- 11.75 -- 18.75 I could not find neither of these p#s in the parts book nor could I find any reference to them online, so I'm not sure if these were original to the truck or if the p# I'm looking at on the dirt shield is referencing something else...these dims compare very close to the dims of the 31000 & 32207 shocks that I've been using for years from Monroe, which were listed as replacements in their interchange book back in the 90s. So I did some studying of the parts manual and Monroe's Instruction Guide, as well as Gabriel's Online Catalog (which took some digging to find), and found some more part replacement numbers that could be used. Some shocks are more available than others, and some shocks are cheaper than others, but after putting a few more hours into researching this topic, I think we have more options available for builds and restorations. One thing I noticed in the parts manual is the specification of 1" domestic and 1-3/8" heavy duty export. Looking at the shocks available, the common spec for passenger cars is 1-3/16" bore, with light truck shocks having a 1-3/8" bore. I switched to a large bore shock on The Blue Bomber years ago, and it produced a slightly bouncy ride unladen but under a heavy load or pulling a trailer, the truck rode nice and smooth, and braking was much more controlled, with noticeably less nose dive. So if you are just going to use your old buggy for commuting, then the 1-3/16" shocks should work fine, as they are a stronger design than the originals...if you plan on carrying a load on a regular basis, then the bigger shocks are a good investment. I know when I was hauling water with both my '48 1/2 ton and '49 1-ton, I noticed after a few years that the replacement shocks (1-3/16" bore) were all leaking as I was really loading up the suspension but not moving in a hurry on any trip nor traveling tens of thousands of miles annually. B-1-B, -C, -D B-2-B, -C, -D Front -- Monroe 31000 = Monroe 59001 = Monroe 32293 Gabriel 81147 = Gabriel 82047 [1-3/8"] -- Monroe 34904 - Monroe 37098 - Monroe 37112 Gabriel 61500 - Gabriel G63689 Rear -- Monroe 32207 = Monroe 59017 Gabriel 81676 - Gabriel 82007 [1-3/8"] -- Monroe 555004 Gabriel 61550 = Gabriel G63949 - Gabriel G63299 B-3-B, -C, -D B-4-B, -C, -D Front & Rear [1-3/8"] -- Monroe 66858 - Gabriel 82065 The Monroe and Gabriel shocks are not exactly the same in extended and collapsed dimensions, but they are generally within 1/4" of each other. The best way I can explain this is that the Pilot-House trucks have a certain suspension travel, as do other makes & models that have similar geometry, and the manufacturers make shocks that fall within a certain range within that travel, so several different shocks could possibly fit a certain suspension geometry and still work. I would favor a shock that allows the spring to hit its bumpstop so that the shock is not bearing a severe load...conversely, a shock should still have some stroke left when the springs have reached max vertical travel so that the tires are not being lifted off of the ground prematurely, enabling more control of the vehicle in extreme situations. Obviously, the B-3 and B-4 shocks that are available now are more limited...just looking at the applications online, that 11/16" mounting diameter does not appear to be an industry standard as the 5/8" and 3/4" mounting diameters have been used on many shock configurations over the years. I would list the different colors that these shocks are coated, but some of the factory descriptions do not match the pictures on their websites...also, some vendors had different colors listed from the factory website, so I reckon ya get what you get in the box

There is no oil pressure test port on the M-6 transmission...why I don't know. The test involves *Raising the rear end, *Removing the interrupter switch above the shift piston... *Starting the engine...putting it in gear... *Run it above 13mph in gear... *Look down hole at the shift piston.. *Piston should move forward to complete upshift above 13mph in high range... *Test completed