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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/09/2020 in all areas

  1. The 4 speed looking trans shown here would be a later model synchronized version, which was introduced in ‘51. The earlier spur gear, Non-synchronized, 4 speed has the PTO towards the front with the fill/level plug behind it.
    3 points
  2. '52 Suburban update- we got the body off the frame! It was quite an undertaking - we inserted 2 - 4x4s through the open windows and ratcheted it up slowing so we could roll the chassis out from underneath. Almost didn't have enough clearance but letting some air out of the tires did the trick. Mounted the body on a homemade jig with heavy casters so we can move it around easily. Next steps- change out the rear end with a refurbished '92 Ranger third member and add brakes.
    2 points
  3. Sometimes it's worth it just to go to your local machine shop and pay them a few bucks to press something out.
    2 points
  4. Is it cheating that he bad the crankcase breather cap off? Did that make easier to crank over? ? DJ
    2 points
  5. I'm thinking about converting my wipers over to electric on my 39 P8. Right now they are the stock Trico vacuum motors. I will be mounting a set of Langdon headers to the engine so running off a stock dual diaphragm fuel pump is out of the question. I mounted a vacuum canister with a hose coming straight off the intake then added a 12 volt vacuum pump powered by a step up converter rated at 10 amps. Although I had numerous leaks to take care of they do work with this set up but the vacuum pump I installed does not have enough to supply the motors by itself, not even just one motor. Description said it was for powering accessories. It has an auto cut-off that tries to maintain 11-15 inHg but it runs constantly with just one motor on and the wiper doesn't budge. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-h81953021 The converter I'm using is rated at 10 amps more than enough for the pump I'm using but I'm thinking of two things. 1. Get a better pump. I'm looking at Hella pumps that are rated at anywhere from 18-22 inHg to 30 inHg but current draw on these are around 10-15 amps. The converter I have is rated at 10 amps so I would need to get a different converter. Plus they are not auto shut-off so I have to get all that stuff to. 2. Swap to electric wipers. I know Newport has a set of wipers but they show their 39 Plymouth set as a replacement for factory original electric motor mounted under the dash, mine are overhead and are vacuum. The earliest I see they have as a replacement for vacuum motors is their 35-1936 set. I'm thinking unless I want to try and see if the earlier 35-36 ones will fit in the original overhead locations I would have to get the 1939 set, mount under the dash and drill holes for the wiper shafts. Plus they only have 12 volt so I would need to make certain I can get a 6-12 volt converter that can handle the motor. The biggest 6-12 volt converter I have found is rated at 20 amp. Does anyone know anything about these guys? https://raingearwipers.com/product/mighty-wiper-1-inch/ I first saw these on Bob Drakes website, then I emailed them to find out what the amp draw was on the motors and in his return email he mentioned he gets the motors from Rain Gear Wipers. Looking at Rain Gear sets they even have a 6 volt set plus I checked the dims of the 1" motors and they are close enough to the Trico vacuum motors that I don't see any issue with them fitting in the original overhead locations. I think the Rain Gear sets would work. Either that or try a better vacuum pump. Already gone half the road on getting the vacuum wipers to work. With just max intake vacuum they work pretty fast, to fast so I also need to find a vacuum switch/solenoid that will throttle down the vacuum to the wipers. The pump would come off the switch and assist when intake/canister vacuum is lower then the switch settings. Should keep my wipers at one constant speed. That has been my plan and I've spent the last week putting it together. But now I'm thinking about throwing it all to the wind and going with electric wipers. Leaning towards the Rain Gear 1" set. I think they call this a conundrum.
    1 point
  6. I'm starting a new thread to show this restoration, rather than continue to use the "What Heater fits..." thread I started when I was trying to find a heater. I'm not going to move the content related to the restoration, but you can still see it here: The beginning of the project to restore the heater is there, I'm picking it back up with the rust removal of the rest of the box and associated parts. Today I did the first half of the main box. I again used a power supply and a bucket of water with Washing Soda it in. The details can be seen on the previous thread. Nothing new there. I am using the currently limiting resistor this time of course to avoid damaging my power supply, again. Due to other resistances in the circuit, namely I didn't bother to get a perfect connection from my negative wire to the metal, the current was about 1.36A. That's based upon there being a 6.82ish volt drop across my 5-Ohm resistor. Ohms law. I didn't take a picture of the metal before, but I do have the other side and the first part I did today. I left it in the bath for around 3 hours. There is a very minor amount of rust in some places. Most people might just use a spray over rust type paint, but I'm going to put it back in the bath tomorrow to finish the job. Looking at these pieces to take pictures, I see the worst part is the ones I've already done. I still wouldn't paint over this rust. A side benefit of the electrolytic rust removal, is that is take all the original paint off too
    1 point
  7. That second transmission looks at lot like mine with the same case number 088221. A New Process 420, the same used in M37 military applications and it is a four speed. Maybe this website can help: http://www.jobrated.com/tranmission-id.html
    1 point
  8. My first car was a 54 Plymouth so I have a natural affinity for them. Yours looks great.
    1 point
  9. Having a car for 45 years is pretty impressive. Having a wife for that long is outstanding. She must be a Saint! ?
    1 point
  10. Hi Dingo, I'm one of those that Jolly suggests. Not against changing things, but being partially a purest, any changes I make can be relatively easily reversed and I've made a bunch of them on my 39 Plymouth PT. I think many on this sight might agree with me or even be more conservative about changing up our Mopars too much? If you are not aware? There is a website THE H.A.M.B. at https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/ that I have found the best when it comes to the questions like you've asked. Lots of experienced car builders on there willing to share their knowledge and experience. On occasion, I'll catch a street rod building show where they'll take a beautifully restored or pristine original car and chop it up in all directions to build someone with too much money an abortion (in my opinion). I can appreciate the fabrication skills, but there should be a law! Lols! ?
    1 point
  11. Located it and it was actually right where I thought! 5" wide at the bottom 6.75" at the top. Left is 5.75" right 6". 2" tall bottom and 7/8 at the top. Top and bottom have a flange. Top of the holes is 1" from the top edge. P
    1 point
  12. place i ordered my bearings from never delivered. ordered on july 11, still not here. gave up and ordered from andy bernbaum on wednesday, and the parts arrived on friday. today, got the crank installed with new bearings, and the pistons/rods with new rod bearings. in fact, i’ve got most of the engine back together. still need to install the water pump and the carb, then i can put the motor back in the truck - hopefully tomorrow. then it will be reattaching stuff like the starter, alternator, flywheel, clutch, etc. maybe drive it monday...
    1 point
  13. Nah! I don't hate the player or the game! Just enjoy pulling the chain. ?
    1 point
  14. fuses....who needs fuses.....they made up for this with oil filter and spare tire...
    1 point
  15. The starter relay get's it's ground through the generator armature. Possibly after cleaning the engine the commutator is dirty preventing a ground path for the starter relay. To bypass the IGN SW. and also the armature ground circuit..(hot wiring the starter) Using two jumper wires... *Ground the solenoid small top wire stud closest to the block * Momentarily connect (hot) 6 volts to the upper outer small wire stud... Starter should immediately crank over when you touch the hot jumper to this stud....engine will not start up unless you turn the key on too.
    1 point
  16. Here in Oz most 30's and 40's mopars used electric wipers, but 6 volt......when I installed the 318 poly etc I upgraded to 12 volt BMC(Morris, Hillman/Austin etc) cable drive wipers, I installed the wiper motor behind the glove box on the passenger side and used the BMC gear drive assemblys with one mounted upside down to give the wipers the correct action, ie, "clap your hands" action, this setup has worked fine for 35 years.............and a cable setup can have the motor mounted anywhere so long as the cable is long enough to reach the drive gearboxes................andyd
    1 point
  17. Found these https://www.kaiserwillys.com/windshield-wiper-motor-conversion-kit-in-6-volt-fits-41-59-mb-gpw-cj-2a-3a-3b-5 2.125x3.25x3.33
    1 point
  18. I'd tig or gas braze it...certainly wort a try. Cleanup the hardest part.
    1 point
  19. First year in a few we haven’t had to cover the blueberries with netting in sometime. We got a cat and he has been camping out under them LOL? blueberries are now just finishing up, picked several LBS for the new freezer. (Granddaughters love snacking on them) corn is just now tasseling and silks showing... hit them with urea about 3weeks ago and WOW! My hope now is they can pollinate, I kinda planted a little close.... cause you know, more is better ?
    1 point
  20. My WT puller...I can slowly wedge them out or slide hammer out....I prefer to slowly wedge them out...prevents tearing the slots
    1 point
  21. I bought one of these off of ebay 3 years ago and it fit with no alterations. My wipers work fine and are two speed now as well. I only paid $75 for mine though. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1941-1949-CHRYSLER-DODGE-PLYMOUTH-DESOTO-6V-AUTOLITE-WIPER-MOTOR-41-49/174367670505?epid=1265606633&hash=item28991f80e9:g:QLkAAOSwH6dfIDkQ
    1 point
  22. Gator's got your granny... Chomp, chomp chomp chomp...
    1 point
  23. Great job! Good to hear even the expert struggles a bit with welding patches into 70 yr old metal. Even when it looks clean it sometimes behaves very contrary. Just when I think I have my settings right and all is going well, all of a sudden it turns to chookshit (from Aussie chickens)
    1 point
  24. I don't think I could actually call it "my truck" unless I put all the glass in myself. If fact there are a few items on these trucks that really should be done by yourself in order to qualify for true ownership. Installing those corner windows and replacing the steel WDT are two top jobs that come to mind. If you are not willing to do these yourself.........then I say . .
    1 point
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