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After trying a few different plugs I settled in on using NGK BR6S plugs in my truck along with a set of Belden resistor type wires. I found the NGK plugs to burn the cleanest of those that I tried. They run a perfect medium tan color in my truck. All the others showed sooty black grey. I have always found that NGK has an optimum plug for just about anything. As I mentioned earlier getting the carburation just right took more effort than setting up the ignition system. My truck has FD and came with B & B equipped with a dashpot. No matter what I did with the original Carb I couldn't get it to run right. I lucked upon a NOS B & B on Ebay that was better but took several attempts to get it set just right. Now that it is right as it should be I help keep it that way with two modern sealed fuel filters in the system. And regular doses of MMO in the fuel tank. I don't care what anybody says about MMO the stuff works great as a fuel additive. Hth. Jeff

Another pic.

Pretty sure Brendt is part of the Justice League and fighting crime with his Dodge-Mobile. I mean, look how fast this dude is. 48D (sidekick)

The engine looks great. Glad to hear it runs as well as it looks! I do love in-line six engines.

Test port as shown.... passenger side of trans extension housing...1946-48 M-5 transmission only... special threaded fitting....

I'll put this in here as a place holder and hopefully no only will it come home after 21 years but I'll be able to tell the story of bringing it back to life herein. Dad called. We have been looking for a 37 Dodge to take the place of Ol John Lee the 65 Chevy Truck I had been driving. Fortunatly he found the car. My/his/our car. His Dad bought it for him. I worked with him on it and road around in it all my life. It became mine at 20 years old and I drove it till a drunk hit me on the drivers side totaling it when I was 30. I sold it. Dad found it. Its been sitting in the hotrod shop in VA for 21 years waiting to be finished. The owner knows we want it back. As is, or accident damage repaired and running/driving. So for now Dad and the shop owner talked it over and Ol Bessie is "Back in the Que" for repairs. Don't know what the costs will be or if I can even afford it but we'll start with trying to own it again and move out from there. With luck I can at least geti it home to the garage.....maybe more. As it sits, and just before the wreck 21 years ago it had: New upholstery that I sewed myself from scratch, I had redone all the woodgrain finish on the metal trim, rebuilt the dash gauges, installed a new wiring harness, built a Ford 200 6 with weber carb, new radiator, TCI Streetfighter C4 Trans, new leaf springs and shackels, new front suspension and kingpins (wonder how many folks don't have a clue what kingpins are?), rebuilt the steering box and brake system, new glass, new rubber. It was a solid daily driver. For years with a flathead and three speed and all that work had under 1000 miles on it when the accident occured. But, Dad said he wants the shop to work up the estimates on a running driving car with the accident damage fully repaired. We'll see......I am excited and guarded at the same time.

I would think in theory anyway that the bypass oil filter canister itself acts as somewhat of an oil cooler. Since it is taking the oil out of the engine, through the line to the filter then back through the line to the engine. The entire time it is outside the engine it is in fact cooling because it is not exposed to the heating of the engine during that time. I suppose you could go to one of the finned aluminum canisters that are available in the hot rod market place to increase the cooling efficiency over the stock canister if you wanted something more. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Offenhauser-Fifties-Style-Beehive-Oil-Filter,25041.html

I recently ran into a problem trying to repair an original reflector headlight wiring system on a '39 Plymouth conv cpe. The majority of the '36-39 vehicles, Ford, GM and DPCD, utilize the same type of pre-focused bulb and socket. Every parts vendor that I talked to told me that they had not seen any bulb sockets or wiring harness's available in many years. I keep looking because the only other option was to convert the lights to haligon, which is not a good option. After a lot of searching I came upon a man named Ed Spiegel in Murrysville PA (734 733-1818) ( www.AntiqueMOPAR.com ) Ed had NOS sockets and harness' for the '39., he also had the reflector clips which are rare as hens teeth. Ed told me that he had three buildings full of parts for '38-62 DPCD vehicles. Wm.

OK I was wondering why they didn't show them on their site but I was finding them on other websites. That's a little discouraging. Don't guess they would care to honor the 1 year warranty much. I'm leaning towards the SPW kit. I think at $275 for the entire kit with the converter of $40 it should work. I spoke with SPW and they said it usually pulls around 13 amps. I would start with a lower fuse like 15 amps just to see what happens. Right now I'm going to look into what it would take to get someone to take the motor down to 6 volts.

The core plugs must be removed to properly clean out the engine block cooling passages. The radiator should be checked out by a qualified radiator shop if one is available. Not many left anymore sadly. Honeycomb radiators are extremely difficult to bring back to OE flow specs and repair leaks.... This leads to a tube and fin recore or new import aluminum radiator..

While not original, adding front discs, dual pot MC and seat belts are definitely smart safety investments. I would also include radial tires and 12V/LED lighting right up there as well.

I believe there should be a gasket there, if it's the replaceable filter type. If it's the sealed type, where you replace the whole canister, then it's bad. If it's the sealed type and you want to convert to the replaceable type, they make a kit for Jeeps that can be made to work, it's not a bolt in but the fab isn't hard. https://www.omix-ada.com/oil-canister-assembly-45-67-willys-jeep-models.html

The seal should fit through that outer flange. Flip the hub over so that it is resting on the drum. Use a long drift, or hardwood dowel/hammer handle, to tap on the inner bearing cone. This should drive the seal out, along with the bearing.

Maybe these will help. Possibly answer a few questions anyway. 48D

In the factory shop manual, there is a paragraph on rear hub service for the B-1-D, PW, F-J trucks in the Wheels and Tires section... After the retainer is removed, that hub inner oil seal is removed, though I cannot remember if I used a drift on the inner bearing race or the bearing itself to dislodge that oil seal, gotta be careful to not damage that bearing by getting in a hurry... additional information - front wheel seal additional information - rear wheel seals

After the engine rebuild I was finally able to confirm what I had always suspected that the fairly new rebuilt carb that came on my car was no good. I finally got a new rebuilt unit this morning and as soon as I put it on my engine she started running like the proverbial "Swiss Watch". Took it out for a ride and it is a lot of fun to drive. handles like a go-kart and that 250 six has a lot of pep and low end torque.

I put a 2002 Grand Cherokee rear axle with 12" discs on the rear and a rustyhope disc kit on the front of my 3/4 ton B series. No booster needed. In more than 25,000 miles I have not had to touch the braking system. If you are going to drive the truck much in traffic this mod is a real confidence booster. Jeff

I can only say what I said before ........ these engine are in general in a very soft state of tune. Typical side valve characteristics. When I first got my truck running I played around with the spark gap. Going from .035" to .045" made absolutely no difference in the way the truck ran. My Pertronix set up was...... and still is working flawlessly. I had far more issues in getting the carburation working properly. Once I got that corrected my truck has been a joy to use. Never any issues starting right up and running properly. I have used it as my every day driver for the past 6 years. And that is what it is all about. Jeff

Finally got to the old Gulf station in Quincy, FL just up the road from where I live and took some pictures. It is not a working station but is set up with all kinds of memorabilia and from the street sure looks like it operates.

My dad's trying to make me memorize some silly saying: "This is my welder, there are many like it but this one is mine..." He said that some of you would get it.

The "twisty-cap-y-thingy" on my truck doesn't have the numbers 710 on it. It has a picture of the thing that Genie comes out of.

The cars are more likely heavier than a stock truck. The truck was designed to carry heavier loads. The difference was mostly handled in the transmission and suspension, not the engine. Most rebuilds are for nostalgia, not busting a hump. I say build a solid engine of your choice. Shore up the suspension, tranny, tires a little taller than stock, and drive it. 48D

I would put together the better of your two 23" blocks/heads with the 230 rotating assembly (assuming it's good.) You already have it so it's "free" horsepower so to speak. Small gains in HP/TQ are large by percentage in lower powered engines; you can usually tell the difference in performance.

Every post is better with a couple pics.

Dad is here. A visit. News. The Dodge is mine again. It was never not mine, since I was 16. I drove it daily till I was 30 when it was wrecked. I spent all my money on a lawyer chasing a drunk with nothing and nothing was left to fix it. I sold it. 23 years ago. The day I sold it. 23 years ago. Dad bought it back. He and Jim kept it a secret. Working on it occasionally as time and manning and money permitted. Stored away in the hot rod shop. Waiting for 23 years. Till I wanted it back. I almost bought one in Chicago last month. It was sold the day I arrived to look at it. The title, in my name, never transferred has sat in secret in Dads lock box waiting. For 35 years it has been my car. Before that, since 1957, Dad was the second owner of the Ol Dodge. Its coming home.