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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/30/2020 in all areas

  1. I had a heck of a time finding parts for my 4-speed from the normal places. Got lucky and talked to John at Northwest Transmission 937-442-2811 in Ohio. We talked for about 20 mins. He was able to find mine in a book (heard him turning pages, impressed someone still uses them) and sent me the gaskets I needed. He said they had most of the parts to rebuild if I needed after opening it up.
    1 point
  2. I had to make the same sort of modification to my distributor when I decided to put a pertronix module in my truck. It bothered me at the time. But it has not bothered me since. ? I have been using my truck daily for 6 years now......and this unit has been flawless. No way am I ever going back to P & C........ Jeff
    1 point
  3. RE: leads through rectangular opening In similar applications, I have potted wires through case openings by using masking tape as a form or backing and carefully applying black RTV silicone, being careful to have the leads spaced at least one wire diameter...this effectively casts a flexible seal that is economical, robust, and easy to replace when required
    1 point
  4. A whole picture of the trans sure would help ID it ...better than a part number to have to search through parts books.
    1 point
  5. If you had the part#'s for the specific 3 speed in your truck you could find parts...there are at least two 3 speeds in those series of trucks. The Fargo might make it more difficult... The trans might be a New Process or Warner etc. ID the trans then search.
    1 point
  6. additional information - grey beard's reflooring project additional information - Pilot-House reflooring dimensions additional information - partial bed removal
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  7. Frankin-floor is just about in and we will be moving the chassis back under the body to tack the braces back in place probably tomorrow. I'd share pics of the floor, but in its present state, the FCC might shut me down for broadcasting inappropriate content on the internet. "The Horror." I get to read The Heart of Darkness this year in English 4.
    1 point
  8. Finally Found a transmission govenor bail and got it installed on Ol Bessy. Should be able to get back on the road today. Some tuning to do and hopefully Monday we get the vin inspection and schedule her alignment. Cant wait. Got only a few weeks left till Dad is here to drive her for the first time in many years.
    1 point
  9. I run a 6v positive ground Airtex pump on my 1939 Plymouth. I use it for priming just like Wraith said. I use the 3 - 4 psi one, as that's the pressure these old cars want to see. Works very well. I use just a rebuilt NOS mechanical pump for almost all of my driving. Handles the steep mountain grades well with the Airtex off. I used to have a Carter electric pump, but I could not run just the mechanical pump on steep grades unless the Carter electric pump was switched on. It seemed to have a restriction in the flow when it was turned off that the pulse pump does not have. I spoke to a tech support guy at Airtex not long ago. He was one of the rare ones that would tell you the truth, not the company line. He said that Airtex was bought by the company that owns Carter, and is in the process of discontinuing the Airtex pumps. He said that if you order an Airtex electric pulse pump you will likely receive a Carter pulse pump, and that Carter only makes one part number for both the 12v and 6v applications. He pretty much said those were crap. The Airtex pulse pumps currently listed on Amazon still use the old picture but are not the pump that I use. I ordered one and sent it back. Pete
    1 point
  10. I swapped out my 4.1 for a 3.54 and I have never looked back. Sure I have to change down a gear going up some hills, but the gain in reducing the working of the engine on my highway runs is more than worth the effort ?
    1 point
  11. My dad (a finance guy) said something about the time value of money cutting two ways. Money saved today will grow to be more money to spend tomorrow, but what cost a lot today will cost even more tomorrow. If this gives you any idea what he's trying to tell me, then that's one of us.
    1 point
  12. Your coolant leak may be where the thermostat housing mates up with the head. A bad gasket or the mounting bolts not being sealed or torqued down can create that, and over time those mating surfaces can lose their "true" with each other so a thinner gasket won't work well. Our D24 had the same leak several years ago. I didn't mess with the head, but I did square up the mounting surface on the housing. Once I started, it was obvious it wasn't flat. Installed a good gasket, sealed the mounting bolt threads, torqued them down, and it hasn't leaked since. A thicker gasket would also alleviate bad mating surfaces.
    1 point
  13. I guess we are far enough along to safely say I'm buying this one. At least the loan is approved, insurance bought, and I spent all day pushing paperwork. Getting to the last of it and should have the paper end of the purchase in the mail Fri or Sat. Some pics from the seller while I wait. Hope the Coupe looks and runs half as good on arrival. Kinda 2 dream cars for me and Dad....Ol Bessy the Sedan back on the road and a 37 Dodge Business Coupe to bumble around with her.Hopefully Dad/Mom are serious about moving close to us in the next months. (Dad is 81, Mom is 79 i drive from NC to VA once each month to help them for a week.) Just two weeks back Dad indicated he was so proud of having his Bessy back on the road and wouldn't it be great to have a 37 Coupe or Truck to work on and then ride with her. 4 Days later i found a 36 truck and this coupe. Decided to go for the coupe, it still has what amounts to a truck bed and its the same year as Ol Bessy. Plus the truck looked too nice to consider "working on".From the photos and discussions it seems this one still has the original D5 1937 block in place. So, compression checks, etc on arrival and we'll see if it stays flat head with some old speed parts or not, (somewhere around here i have Bessy's original 37 head shaved 40 or 60 thousands for a compression bump)...but during that conversation two weeks back Dad kept referring to the 292 chevy 6, 3 carbs, automatic, etc. For 81 he still has the bug!He dosn't know about the Coupe yet (wanted to make sure I actually got it and got it here first).With luck, I'll have the Coupe here and running solid before they arrive on their house hunting trip in mid to late August. Dad will be tickled.....Mom will probably hit me. I plan to park Ol Bessy and Huddie (the Coupe) in the front yard so they see both when pulling in. Dad has not yet even seen Ol Bessy the sedan since she's had final assembly and been getting out on the road. Should be cool.
    1 point
  14. I install an electric fuel pump on my vintage vehicles, to prime the fuel bowls before starting on the cars that sit longer between rides. Airtex makes a unit that is 6 volt and in the 5-8 psi range and usually available at RockAuto. I only prime for about 6 seconds so the higher psi is not really an issue. The units are meant to push the fuel not pull it so they should be located near the fuel tank. They come with a small filter, but I place my normal fuel filter before the pump. I have not heard of issues where it needs to be below the tank but that might be people installing the pump as a pulling unit. I have 5 of these units both 6 and 12 volt and not had any issues with them, reasonably priced at around $30 and supposed lifetime warranty. unfortunately the 6 volt is presently out of stock. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=293409&jsn=3
    1 point
  15. Nice Coupe........Yep, I'd be getting the head swapped or ground and add another carby and a twin system then go hunt some Frods..........lol.............nice car either way...........andyd
    1 point
  16. Here are my (obviously) un-restored 1948 Plates, I hope they come out half as good as yours Fantastic Job!
    1 point
  17. I hooked up a 6V pump hastily for testing and troubleshooting purposes. It works just dandy mounted in a not-so-great position. Mounted in the rear engine bay, attached to the firewall , about where the firewall contacts the car frame. Mounted down low, but not as low as the fuel tank. Nor near the fuel tank. My 6V pump is placed after the stock type mechanical fuel pump. It is controlled by a toggle switch on my dash. I flip it on when when I want it on. It easily pulls fuel from the tank, sucks it through the mechanical fuel pump and pushes it up to the carb bowl. How do I know this? I tested fuel line pressure near the bowl, with pump switched on, engine not running. I am not running any type of fuel pressure regulator either. The pump makes about 3.5 PSI. So I did not bother to install a pressure regulator. My fuel system is currently set up, described as below. Surely not what is ideal, but it works great as it is: Fuel tank--steel lines along car frame---flex hose to mechanical fuel pump mounted to engine-- steel line up from mechanical pump----Rubber hose to electric fuel pump---rubber hose to fuel filter---Rubber hose to steel line--steel line to carb bowl fitting. My plan is to remove the extra rubber lines currently in use. Use steel lines wherever I can. I plan to move the fuel pump to the rear of the car down near the tank. I will continue to use the stock mechanical fuel pump. 6V electric pump for back up, and priming the system after its been left sitting for long periods of time. I'll get to the work this coming winter. For now I am just driving and enjoying the car over the cruising season. My system is damned, but works just fine. On a related note the vast majority of my engine starting problems disappeared when I switched to non-ethanol fuel. The temporary 6V pump helped me confirm that. Today, that 6V pump is barely getting any use.
    1 point
  18. Factory design dual heaters plumbing with correct dual hose heater control valve....with control cable correctly installed on back of valve..
    1 point
  19. who is Betty Crocker.....does she need a little butter and brown sugar..?
    1 point
  20. I am quite wary of any car that carries the acronym KIA, as all you current and past military gentleman know that stands for killed in action..... LOL.
    1 point
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