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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/18/2020 in all areas

  1. It's amazing how much more it looks like a truck now!!
    5 points
  2. If i recall they changed from step to straight bore from one year to the next without changing anything else.
    2 points
  3. Hello all, I've been a ghost on this forum ever since June 1st of this year, when I acquired this fairly awesome, well-documented, mildly famous 1949 Dodge Wayfarer: Some members who have read quite a bit on these cars may recognize this car from a certain Mopar reference website. This is the oldest vehicle I have owned (newer notables include a 1967 Dodge Coronet and 1958 Plymouth Belvedere), and therefore came with a new set of challenges for me like 6 volt positive ground electrical systems and the wonderful tapered rear axles, and Fluid Drive. So thank you all for making this forum what it is today. I've gained the info I've needed to get going on this awesome car. As of today, front brakes and master cylinder have been replaced/overhauled, and the rear axle is to be reassembled in the next couple of evenings. She should be safely on the road for a neighborhood cruise-around this Independence Day. Stay tuned for updates. Glad to be a part of this forum. PS - It's a shame to say that this car was actually under a carport within the debris field of a tornado about three years ago, so the driver's side isn't as pretty as the rest of the car. That will be fixed later. It may need a door. You can see so many ripples in the metal around the large bondo spot. The whole door skin just looks "pissed off" for lack of a better way to say it. I feel like I can fix the fender myself. Also - I DID NOT PERFORM the Bondo "repair" you see pictured below. That would have been a PO.
    1 point
  4. In the northern hemisphere it’s prime cruising season. Pandemic or not, we go out alone if needed, for a little cruise. Many of us wait all year for summer cruising, and its here right now. Where have you been lately? Post a pic. Share a story. We’d all love to see your car and hear about it! Tonight It was warm here. Overcast. After the sunset I felt the urge to go somewhere. Anywhere. I drove less than a mile to my mail box. Checked the mail...Nothing. Saw a photo op. Then took a “long cut” home around my neighborhood. The old dash lit up in the dark is comforting somehow. That was my quick cruise tonight. Let’s hear about yours. Pics please!
    1 point
  5. I slid in between these two trucks at my work parking lot this morning. When I turned around to look at my car while I walked away I was mildly amused. These old cars look pretty small compared to the new trucks of today. Look at all the room between my car and the adjacent trucks. There is actually room to open the doors and easily get in and out of the car. I did not realize how much larger new vehicles are. Often I struggle to squeeze out of the doors in my work truck, a 2017 F250. Some parking lots are so tight a person cannot walk between my work truck and the car next to me, even when all the doors are closed and mirrors pulled in. I was grimly reminded to pay extra attention when cruising around in my '38. The modern beasts on the road could crush it, and me.
    1 point
  6. Los only you can change that. lol
    1 point
  7. Newer vehicles carry wider loads.
    1 point
  8. Jump it with a 12v battery. If she starts you know its an electrical issue. Won't hurt a 6v system (or starter) to jump it with 12v. If your 6v system is still + ground, just set the 12v battery on the floor e.g. don't leave it in a 12v - ground car for the jump.
    1 point
  9. one of 4 fillets off of one of the larger ones.
    1 point
  10. Sorry just got all off these posts. I thought when I got a reply to one of my post it sent a email. Guess I have it one once a week. Anyways I did find some studs. Shoulds I be using grade 8 nuts the studs. Because I bought grade 5 and already went around it.
    1 point
  11. I learned Something of interest lately. I had installed an electric fuel pump. Mainly used for priming. However I was also using it to supplement the mechanical fuel pump to climb the big hill home. I was running regular fuel. The car would buck a little as I climbed up to an 11% grade for a couple of miles. The electric pumped seemed to stop any bucking. A couple of times the engine stalled out, right after about an 1/8 mile of flat driving at the top of the hill as I coasted into my driveway. Hmm. That was interesting. I couldn’t quite peg down the reason for it. A short while later I switched to a premium plus fuel here, with no ethanol. I found I no longer needed to use the electric fuel pump at all. The engine and fuel got hot climbing the hill still. However no bucking. The mechanical pump worked just fine on its own. The engine has not stalled in the driveway after the hill climb either. I assume I was experiencing some vaporization? With the throttle wide open climbing the hill, the mechanical fuel pump could not keep up? The electric pump helped keep enough fuel moving to prevent any bucking. Yet when I levelled off for a bit I was over fuelling the engine. It stalled due to it being flooded? It all seems believable. All My poor performance symptoms have vanished since I switched over to no ethanol premium fuel. Hard and no-starts. Hesitation & bucking under certain conditions. Stalling. All gone. I’m a believer, ethanol is the devil for our old Mopars.
    1 point
  12. kinda like this? theoretically the pressure against the tire would act like a lock washer and keep things from rotating off, but I figured better safe then sorry! Like Merle I swapped out the wiper assembly for plug and play.
    1 point
  13. A good inspection will tell you where to go. If the linkage is sloppy then adjusting the steering box will not fix that. If the linkage is tight and the box is sloppy then yes, adjust the box. This is a good source of info for your questions, it's the factory training series http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/028/index.htm
    1 point
  14. Finished rebuilding the distributor, carburetor, and heater. Feels good to finish some of these small tasks while waiting on the engine.
    1 point
  15. Still a few hoops to jump thru before this is a done deal, but regardless, it has zero bearing on the Mopars I own as whatever is left of Chrysler hasn't supported them for a long time anyway and I am not likely to be a customer of anything new from anyone anymore.
    1 point
  16. Yes sir, it's Mountainaire fire Dept. From Arizona, same place my pilothouse came from. Bought at the same auction. I believe I have a pic of it sent to me from the current chief from back in the day when it was in service..... Yes that's a 500 gallon tank with all the other gear on the back......on a 1/2 ton chassis.
    1 point
  17. the fuel could be an issue but is often more related to percolation than no fuel at all....this occurs when the float level is set too high and too high could well be on the money given the expansion rate of our modern fuel. If you look into the carb throat and see lots of fumes...this is your indicator of percolation. Correct this condition with the float level in the carb bowl. Second you may need to look close at the coil for overheating and as such not able to develop sufficient secondary spark...when was your car last tuned with new points....high resistance at the contact due to wear or excessive wear not allowing time in dwell to saturate the coil
    1 point
  18. Lol. Good eye. Yes. The car does have a built in cup holder. Only usable when parked. It was pre-war time, so certainly appropriate. The engineers needed a little more time to perfect it.
    1 point
  19. ---All the sample pics and video I saw posted here are describing front brake work. And, yes, it can be a time saver to remove dust cover, cotter key and nut to pull the wheel/tire and hub as a unit. No other reason that I know of. The note about marking the lug and wheel position is to preserve balance in case it was balanced as a unit, common with the old on car balancers. And, the only time I've seen reference to anything similar on the rear is a kluge used by those without the puller. Loosen the nuts as far as possible and use the tire and wheel assembly as sort of a slide hammer to pull the hub off the axle taper.
    1 point
  20. Got the wiring bugs out, tightened all the fuel line connections and bam she started right up.
    1 point
  21. I can verify that the Pilot-House electric and vacuum wiper motors and linkages cannot be mixed...different motor arms, pivot arms, linkage geometry, and the vacuum pivots have their linkages riveted whereas the electric pivots are attached with a clip. I tried to make a B-3 parts truck electric setup fit into my '49 over 10 yrs ago, and after a lot of finagling, a B-1 electric setup popped up on eBay for 20 bucks and my experiment was over... Seeing that big wingnut on the spare tire carrier made me wonder how it kept from falling off, and I was reminded of the original thread locker: rust. I figured a fix is to cross drill the hanger bolt for a cotter pin, click pin, mechanics wire, rusty bent 8d nail...
    1 point
  22. In my Auto-Lite book shows starter MAW 4029 fits 1942 DDI ( T-112 ) , DD2 ( T-116 ) Canada DD3 75 Canada also 1944 1945 WF , WFA , WFM-38 , 1946 1947 WD-20 , WD-21 . and has armature Maw-2030 . 1941 WC-12 ( T-112 ) shows starter MZ-4059 or MZ-4059A with armature 2108 . So will the starters interchange and work correctly ? I don't know . Hollander Interchange Manual would have some information on possible fitment .
    1 point
  23. The link to “An even brake” and all other mtsc videos and brochures is here - http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=439 This method of removing the tire with hub seems to be a sanctioned taught method by Chrysler themselves . It’s in the official literature and training videos. This seems to be a forgotten method replaced by the hub puller . Notice in the Video they wrap the exposed axle with a clean Cloth to prevent dust. in fact, in the text they say when preparing to lathe the drum, to mark which lug it belongs to which bolt on the drum implying that wheels and drums belong together Due to wear patterns, and should probably be rotated together. That together would make it seem like a standard process. Does anybody know how they were able to remove the hub without removing the wheel, and what how this other technique Works?
    1 point
  24. Bigger question is how are my bottle caps doing?
    1 point
  25. I’m sure that I would have some at the shed here in Oz if you get stuck.
    1 point
  26. Contact Vintage Power Wagons in Fairfield Iowa or Midwest Military in Minnesota. They should have the studs. Part number is 929855. Give them this number. I would think those studs are grade 8. That 8&3/4” third member weights around 70 Lbs or so.
    1 point
  27. Good advice! Only need a couple of studs to make the installation easier. Hang the case on those and use bolts for the rest..
    1 point
  28. My most recent outing was to Chick-Fil-A last night when my wife made it known that she really wanted a Chick-Fil-A chocolate chip cookie. Feel kind of silly going through the drive through and ordering two cookies, but what the heck. It was a good excuse to drive the 37 as if I need one.
    1 point
  29. Got all of the screw holes converted over to square holes for carriage bolts. Required new tools it's an official project now! Side boards fit much better now and this will be the final assembly before finishing the wood and installation.
    1 point
  30. What period these little clamp-on-dash switches from? I would guess later than the year of my car, ‘38. The fog lamp switch, plus it lights up too. I cleaned all connections with emery cloth. Sprayed contact cleaner in the switch. Worked it real good. All new wires from ammeter to switch, all the way to the lamps.I added new return ground wires too, back to a good clean ground point in the engine bay. All wire connections tinned, butt splices crimped, then soldered again. Then heat covered in heat shrink, Then anchored and wrapped in loom and tie straps. Hopefully it’ll long outlast me. Old original switch is fused. All seems to work well, as it should.
    1 point
  31. I certainly will check them again, now that I have the right tools. Not nervous anymore.... The point John made about the tolerances is interesting. I have a replaced motor, it is 50 Plymouth, so along with the WD-15 shop manual I have the spec sheets for torque and clearances for the 50 Plymouth 218. I set the valves at .010 when hot, but based on what John said it might be a little too tight. If in fact the motors are all the same and the clearance requirement is based on the rpms drawn from gearing and such, I may need to loosen them a bit. Now that I have the right wrenches, I am not worried about getting in there a few more times. I will try them a bit looser, say .013 and see how the motor runs.
    1 point
  32. This was my easiest experience adjusting valves...no wheel removal required, no burnt hands, no neck strain...
    1 point
  33. I picked up a set of vintage Blue point extra long tappet wrenches and holly cow are they great. It took me longer to get the access panel out than it did to adjust all the tappets to .010 with the motor running. It now runs so quiet you almost cant hear it. I can only tell it is running by the light vibration in the cab. Adjusting the valves cured my vacuum issue. now the gauge is right at 19 and holds. The truck idles at 450 with no surging or misses. This is how these trucks were meant to run and until you have it tuned nice, you do not know what a good tuned truck is like. PERFECT. You guys are great for all the info and help. here is a video of the vacuum gauge after the valves are adjusted https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZX9cK1_8bw
    1 point
  34. It's good to see that my video is still getting some play. You don't have to do your valve adjustment with the engine running, but I have found that it is a little more accurate. You can also adjust the valves with the engine off. The procedure should be in the shop manual. (edit: I just checked the manual and it references adjusting with the engine running) The engine should be hot for a proper adjustment. If you go to the "Resources" tab at the top of this page there is a Tech section with a valve adjustment procedure for engine off. You don't need any special tools, but they help. You will need 1/2" and 7/16" open end wrenches. If you get yourself a set of tappet wrenches you will find that they are easier to use. They are longer and thinner and work better for reaching into the valve area. Also, longer bent tip feeler gauges make things easier as well. Again, it helps with the reach. These tools also help keep your hands further away from the hot exhaust manifold. And speaking of that... a good pair of gloves is a plus too. I'm not familiar with your truck model, but on the Pilot-House trucks the inner fender panel comes out, and if you pull the right front tire you have fairly good access to the valves. Maybe Ed can chime in on the earlier trucks. And again, on the B-Series trucks the clearance specs are; Intake .010" / Exhaust .014" / HOT. When you adjust the tappets think of the upper part as a bolt that's screwing into the bottom section (because that's basically what it is). Screw the upper part into the lower part to increase the clearance, and screw it out to reduce the clearance. Merle
    1 point
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