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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/06/2020 in all areas

  1. My wheel adaptors showed up, looking forward to putting the wheels back on. The truck really needs to be pushed out of the garage and have the pollen rinsed off. Also started to rebuild the heater. It's been like Christmas in July with all the replacement parts I've been ordering.
    3 points
  2. ...the State finally resurfaced the road our house is on. Despite how much we like this place, I always cringed whenever I took the ol' D24, Terraplane, or Beetle out because of how bad "B Rd." had become. Some spots were 10-20 mph or else. We put WW radials on the D24 last month and really couldn't tell how much of an improvement they were on our road, had to go the 4.5 miles to the main road before the improvement kicked in. Took the D24 to Houlton's July 4 "People Parade" ( the regular Independence Day parade was cancelled, so "the people" improvised our own socially-distant-traffic-rule-following-no-need-for-a-permit parade), an "Independence Loop" six-miles through town. It was a hoot, lot's of folks out, lots of cars and trucks in the parade, and our D24 was the oldest participant and got lots of thumbs-up and nice comments. It was the ol' girl's first trip on the new road.
    2 points
  3. I was given this T shirt in the last few weeks.
    2 points
  4. I repaired my gauge several years ago and it still works fine. Buy a mechanical temp gauge that has a flexible metal line ( not plastic, under $25 ) put the bulb in a cup of water and freeze it, cut the line a couple feet from the bulb so the splice will be hidden under the dash and find a piece of brass to join the new bulb with the old gauge. Make sure the hole is open in the line when you cut it, slip the two ends into the brass sleeve and solder together or as I did JB weld them together. Test the gauge in boiling water.
    2 points
  5. Hello all, I've been a ghost on this forum ever since June 1st of this year, when I acquired this fairly awesome, well-documented, mildly famous 1949 Dodge Wayfarer: Some members who have read quite a bit on these cars may recognize this car from a certain Mopar reference website. This is the oldest vehicle I have owned (newer notables include a 1967 Dodge Coronet and 1958 Plymouth Belvedere), and therefore came with a new set of challenges for me like 6 volt positive ground electrical systems and the wonderful tapered rear axles, and Fluid Drive. So thank you all for making this forum what it is today. I've gained the info I've needed to get going on this awesome car. As of today, front brakes and master cylinder have been replaced/overhauled, and the rear axle is to be reassembled in the next couple of evenings. She should be safely on the road for a neighborhood cruise-around this Independence Day. Stay tuned for updates. Glad to be a part of this forum. PS - It's a shame to say that this car was actually under a carport within the debris field of a tornado about three years ago, so the driver's side isn't as pretty as the rest of the car. That will be fixed later. It may need a door. You can see so many ripples in the metal around the large bondo spot. The whole door skin just looks "pissed off" for lack of a better way to say it. I feel like I can fix the fender myself. Also - I DID NOT PERFORM the Bondo "repair" you see pictured below. That would have been a PO.
    1 point
  6. When I got my 37 Plymouth it did not have a temp sending tube. The gauge is in the dash but read in the middle of it. The engine is a 52 Dodge 230CID. Is there an after market unit I can buy? How hard is it going to be to remove the old sending unit from the block, and what thread size am I looking for? I would love to have it all original but the cost is very expensive. When your retired cost counts. haha
    1 point
  7. I went to a car club event today. Thunderstorms were forecast for the afternoon. I don’t mind driving in the rain but hail scares me. Took this picture with a big storm moving in from the right. Just made it home in time!
    1 point
  8. 1 point
  9. Excellent! I was sure you would like the improvement once the timing was reset. ? I suspect your plugs will clear up pretty quickly because your engine will now have higher combustion temps with proper timing. You can continue using them as long as they don't mis-fire. If the plugs continue to look sooty they'll be telling you the mixture is too rich and you can start trouble shooting the carb.....or they are sooted up past the point of return. I would put in a new set if the budget allows so you can reset everything back to where it should be. Would also make it easier to troubleshoot a potential mixture issue if you start with clean plugs. You have added something valuable to your skill set toolbox today. Keep tinkering, and don't hesitate to ask questions. Your grandfather would be proud of you. ?
    1 point
  10. If you look at 9 foot's procedure carefully, it may be that the last step was omitted, or the second adjustment on the bottom of the distributor housing can be used to correct it.
    1 point
  11. I'm not sure which marks you are trying to "lineup" but you want to see about 4 degrees before top dead center hit the indicator after you rev up the engine. In other words, as you lean over the left fender, as you rev the engine timing should advance to the 4 degree mark the farthest away from you. (CORRECTION: Should have said "4 degree mark closest to you".) Another way to verify this is the timing should be at about zero when the engine is idling. These settings may not be the absolute optimum for your engine but will get you very close and yield a nicely running engine. I sounds like your engine timing is very much retarded now, but the good news is the timing advance system is working since the timing advances as you increase rpm. If your engine timing is indeed retarded now.....be prepared for a pleasant surprise on your first drive after you get the timing correct. One other thing.....your plugs are not fouled, they are just sooty....most likely from running a too rich mixture (or timing so retarded incomplete combustion occurs?). Fouled plugs won't fire.
    1 point
  12. Good thing he has a coupe!
    1 point
  13. Youngsters! I've got a few years on both of you. More time to become a cranky old man. Re: that last sentence. I don't reassess, I just don't deal with them. My thought is this: If they are reluctant to engage in a dialog before they have my money, just how difficult will they be afterward?
    1 point
  14. let the speeding commence........complaints will continue, only in another form...
    1 point
  15. charm is only a descriptor for an ugly item that takes way too much time effort and money to change...character is used when the avenue to tweak that charm gets botched.
    1 point
  16. I appreciate subtle changes to the original designs as well. Supposedly, when everyone else was making their cars sleeker, ol' Walter P. himself insisted that a gentleman should be able to wear his hat while in Chrysler product cars, therefore, that roofline that caused MoPars of the time to be considered "stodgy" - despite his design folks attempts to convince him otherwise. I think of that every time I see early '50s MoPars, and appreciate the thought Walter put into them...but I also still think they look a bit clunky. But, that's also part of the charm...
    1 point
  17. I installed an aftermarket bourbon tube temperature gauge in our D24 many years ago (because I destroyed the original bulb when I removed the head once). I just mounted the gauge under the dash where I can see it easily. Inexpensive, and you have the protection of knowing the temp your car is running at until/if you put an original one back in. Just about any auto parts store will have them, either in the shop or on line. Do not blow into the tube to test, it uses a very subtle amount of pressure change from the ether in the system to work. It's been a while since I viewed any tutorials on repairing a bourbon tube gauge, but the way to test them is to immerse the bulb in water and heat the water. Water boils at 212, so when it starts boiling, that's where the gauge should read, if necessary, adjust the needle as TodFitch notes.
    1 point
  18. Yeah, with a little searching I did find part# and sources: Found original Mopar part# from Pilothouse web site(PDF of truck parts manual) 619167 Found cross reference part# from this site Timken or Federal Mogul 1207SL
    1 point
  19. Me Too And as far as Rich's post, I think he has every right to ask what is included in a rebuild. You would expect a professional who advertises as a rebuilder to check, clean and repair or replace any part that is needed and make sure all the adjustments are set to factory specs. If there is a problem the owner should be contacted to let him know. Such as the core is too far gone to save., Then options can be discussed. And if I call or write a supplier or jobber and don't get a timely reply I reassess whether I want to have any dealing with them.
    1 point
  20. I think it is really cool: https://dinosaurpictures.org/ancient-earth#120
    1 point
  21. When a pump is put in, you turn pump drive shaft until the slot in the end of the drive shaft lines up with the cap screw holes in the mounting flange. Then turn drive gear one tooth counter-clock wise.
    1 point
  22. Yes, I agree. Some vehicles should be kept original as possible. I am a purist at heart. My truck was a basket case when we first started working on it. So, I don't feel too bad about upgrading some things. All modifications have been made so that it could be returned to stock. I have saved all the original parts as well. I have respect for the fabrication skills and engineering talent some street rodder's have, but it really irritates me when they take a beautiful original car and cut it up. Should be a law they have to use junk yard bodies. Lols!
    1 point
  23. the standard 12 volt Bosch is about the most readily available relay and associated pigtail you can get on the market today for a quick clean install....as for the horn wiring you will want supply to be coming in on 30, fused if you like and you can jumper this hot wire to the relay coil terminal 85 as B+ for the coil circuit. You will connect the horn to the output of the relay on terminal 87 and connect the wire running out the steering column from the horn button on terminal 86.
    1 point
  24. 3/8" NPT is the thread size in the head. Here's an NOS one on Ebay, you can see what it's supposed to look like if nothing else. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1937-Plymouth-HEAT-TEMP-GAUGE-Radimeter-NOS-MoPar-665098-In-Box/113853481877?epid=1666928115&hash=item1a82324395:g:kaoAAOSw-ixdVCxO I found one other source, for about $300 plus shipping.
    1 point
  25. It isn't really a sending unit but rather an ether filled bulb and the "wire" going to the dash is actually a small tube. The dash unit is the same basic construction as a pressure gauge. The way it works is the ether evaporates as the engine gets warm and the pressure from the vapor moves the needle on the dash. The bulb, tube and dash unit are all sealed and can not be replaced separately. Since you mention that the dash unit is reading halfway, it is damaged or at least out of adjustment. Because of this your best bet is likely to look on eBay or equivalent places for the complete setup. But if that is not practicable, you can graft a new bulb and tube from a universal aftermarket "mechanical" temperature gauge on to your factory head unit. You might be able to adjust your factory head unit (bend the linkage between the Bourdon tube and the needle, not the Bourdon tube itself to adjust). I have a write up on grafting a new bulb onto a factory head unit on my website. It has been a long while since I last did it so I don't know current prices, etc. Or even, in your case, if the same type of after market temperature gauges are available in England. The aftermarket units available in the US come with an assortment of gland nuts one of which should work in your engine's head. I haven't figured out all the ins and outs of the new fangled anti-freeze solutions. I still go with old fashioned green ethylene glycol.
    1 point
  26. I buy the old style carter total rebuild kits when ever I can find them at swap meets. These are the ones in the orange boxes and also list the proper carb that they will fit. Yes these are getting harder to find but the have all of the internal small brass parts that you need to rebuild and reservice the older cars. If you study the font parts list of most of thes early carter B&B rebuild kits you will find a pattern that in most cases most of the parts from one kit can be used in another kit and similar carb. So when I see what is included and I can matchup the parts and the price is a good price around $25 I purchase the kit that includes all of the parts. Most of the newer kits being sold on Ebay ripoff do not have the entire rebuildable items and only have the small universal parts and cost usually more. So if a Master Carb rebuilder should be able to rebuild a carb for a reasonable cost and also do a rebushing on the lower shaft and still make a living and not charge an arm and 2 legs to get the job done. They are not replacing the main body of the carb just a disassembly, deep cleaning, installing new parts, checking the accelerator plunger movement with the Carter tool and putting it back to gether, maybe testing it on an engine and shipping back to you and you as the owner pay the shipping both directions. I have the Carter Catalog and several other catalogs so I can cross reference to see what parts carry over from each kit. Yes you have to do some homework and leg work but get the good old parts first and then the new repop parts secod. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com
    1 point
  27. Today I cleaned my carburetor and put in new parts kit. Cost of the kit $$32. It’s really amazing the engine ran the insides were so dirty. Tomorrow will instal and see if the engine will restart.
    1 point
  28. Good thinking 'tho there may be some here who will be offended. I love the idea of subtle modifications that retain, but refine, the character of the original statement. Makes for a lot of work that many will miss,.... which is great fun. Go for it!!!! And, please share progress pics.
    1 point
  29. I’ll absolutely be checking out your stuff Vin. And you’re right though haha. I’m torn on the one in that video. I kinda like it. But I don’t think I want to veer of the stock look much. I really wanna get it cleaned up polished and some big fat white walls on there. That big bubbly forties style.
    1 point
  30. Rich, you refer to rebuild and restore as if they are the same thing. Not really. In my experience a rebuild is essentially a clean and kit deal, if you need bushings or have missing parts that would be extra. A restoration would return it to it's factory new condition, with new plating and all. But the only real way to know what you are going to get it to ask and get an answer. If they don't respond that doesn't bode well if there are any future issues.
    1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. continuing to pull parts off in order to be able to remove the engine. finally got the clutch plate and clutch disc removed today. not as easy, because of the rod blowing out through the side of the block, so i couldn't turn the crank to expose all of the bolts of the clutch plate/cover. when it let go, the rod cap got yanked off. after that, the rod stayed in the down position, while the crank continued to rotate. when the #2 rod journal made its way back around, it slammed into the stalled #2 rod, and smashed it into and through the side of the block. in doing this, the rod got significantly bent, and the rod end got mangled. the result is that the momentum of the crankshaft drove it pretty well and wedged the rod between the crank and the block. after lots of attempts at prying, using chisels and drifts, and pounding on the crank with a drilling hammer, it wouldn't budge. today, i decided it was going to move, and used my 20lb sledgehammer, and pounded the end of the rod upwards. after about 6 whacks, it moved up and the crank partially rotated back. success!!! still took about 2 hours to remove the clutch plate and disc, and then the flywheel, but those are now out of the truck. with a few more minor things, i will be able to pull the engine. once pulled, i will take pictures of the carnage.
    0 points
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