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I have the same unit in my truck. It is open when pushed in and closed pulled out. You have to think of it as a flow diverter. When it is open you get much less flow to the defroster vents. It doesn't get too cold here but we do get heavy fog and humid rain which can fog up the windows badly. I decided to use one of these to deal with those conditions. I added the fresh air intake as well. It worked so-so until I came up with the idea to cover the other air outlets in the heater assembly. I made a couple of covers from thin aluminum and stuck them over the outlets. Now with the fan on high and the defroster knob pulled out all the air flow is pushed through the ducting up onto the windsheild. It works really well like this and will still heat the cab up plenty quick for here. Hth, Jeff

I went to the garage and tested the fuel pump again. I was doing a couple of things wrong. First, I forgot to remove the plugs on the in and out ports. I tested it again and it does suck air now. I just have to push the lever with a lot of force. My old fuel pump, which was working in 1980 now is frozen and the lever doesn't move.

Got tires mounted, adjusted the brakes, secured the battery, covered general safety procedures, and headed out for the ‘open road’ with my youngest son this afternoon. First time Ernie has moved under his own power since 1961. Drove down the road a couple miles, worked on another farm truck, and came back home with no major issues. Good thing we live in rural farm country where this kind of thing is relatively normal.

A few new people recently had me thinking to create a sticky post with the vendors we all know and love so it's easier to find for new members. Feel free to add as you see fit! Please add a SHORT blurb about what they do/have. Also check out any banner adds you see from website supporters! https://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/online-parts-catalog <---many Power Wagon parts that fit our trucks, engine parts https://dcmclassics.com/ <---huge selection of parts and re-pops https://www.robertsmotorparts.com/ <---huge selection of parts and re-pops (some NOS available) https://www.oldmoparts.com/ <---huge selection of parts and re-pops https://www.midwestmilitary.com/ <---ONLY source of correct bed-strips for DODGE trucks (others are Ford or Chevy parts), other random similar parts http://www.horkeyswoodandparts.com/ <---DODGE bedside pockets, bed wood kits, bed parts, bed strip offerings (NON Dodge style) http://www.mar-k.com/Catalog/index.aspx <---bed strip offerings (NON Dodge style), bed parts https://www.ebay.com/ <---roll the dice and see what might be out there https://p15-d24.com/classifieds/ <---our own location for buying/selling/searching for http://www.then-now-auto.com/ <---Fuel pump rebuild parts, etc https://www.steelerubber.com/ <---window seal parts https://brakeandequipment.com/ <---brake rebuild parts/shoe rebuild/lug studs https://www.cokertire.com/ <---vintage tires https://www.riwire.com/ <--- wire harnesses https://www.restorationspecialties.com/ <---random hardware and oddball stuff for old vehicles https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/ <--- NEW suspension springs for our trucks

Just finished a year long restoration of my 1954 Dodge PU - a few upgrades but mostly original Disc Brakes, 12 Volt, sure grip 8 3/4 (3.23 ratio) rear end, Diamond Back Radial Wide Whites on 16" Rims Thought I would share the results Thanks Steve R

Sixty (60) years today.

Got the speedometer programmed after about 6 tries. It kept shutting down about half way through the set up. Figgured it out. Every time it blinked off was when the electric fan spun up. Must have a heavy initial draw. I'll have to put it on a relay to keep if from spinning when I shut the motor off, should keep it from eating up the battery.Anyway, got it out on the road. 55 mph out bound. Max speed per the speedometer log was 63 mph on the way back. Rides great, loud as hell with 6 ft straight pipes coming out right by my ear at the B pillar. Ah well, ol man quite exhaust gets fabbed up on 6 July.The rough home alignment is much better and she tracks straight. On our rough country roads there is no noticeable bump steer. But, i think she's going to need a sway bar fabricated. I'll have to call the mfgr and see what they have.For now, I gotta go buy a new grease gun and get the front and rear suspension fully greased.Next week some time I should have the flooring and insulation for the floor. That'll start to help with the heat and noise.Coming together.I believe I'm going to have to ditch the Thunderbird and get either a real coupe or truck to keep Ol Bessy company.

Thanks to all for the compliments Yes the gauges are the originals I am running an Alternator - I used the conversion kit from Vintage Auto Garage Steve R

Jeff, Thanks, good answer. I should have realized it's a diverter. I'm trying to put together a fresh air setup too. So far I only have the intake assembly so I keep checking eBay looking for a good valve, shroud, and hose support. As a side note I took my Model 65 to DCM Classics to have it disassembled and to have the parts blasted and repainted. I'm putting it back together at home in my garage. DCM not only supplies parts, but they also do very nice restoration work including sheet metal fabrication and paint. I really like their facility. It's clean, spacious, and well-organized. They're not paying me for my comments and I'm not an old friend or relative. Just offering my observations on the forum.

I suggest you just hang around, you never know when a find has your name on it. I chanced upon this garage find two years ago. Paid $700 for it and it has an overdrive. It was stored inside for 40 years! Once tuned up will drive it! Will have MAACO paint it its original colors.

This is the piece we cut out

Kurt, the power for the pump comes off the ignition switch. I put a 10a in-line fuse in the wire right at the switch. The wire penetrates the firewall where the wiring harness goes through then down to the frame rail and back to the pump which is located just forward of the rear axle. The other fuse you see in this photo is for the turn signals.

Dude, you can check out, but you can never leave.

I always ran 4.10 in my ‘72 demon 408 smallblock stroker but that was with an iron case 833OD that had a .71 overdrive for highway cruising. Plus that car revved to 6000 really fast and was all forged and blueprinted to scream. My ‘54 C-series with the 512 motor I used 3.21 gears which turned out to be perfect since the torque is massive everywhere and there’s little benefit in revving past 4500 unless I’m on the dragstrip. These were both on a 28” tire. My old dart swinger (27” tire) started with a beat 198 cid slant six and 2.76 gears. It was a dependable grocery getter/cruiser. Then I put 3.73 gears in it behind a ported head, 2 barrel holley, long tube headers, and a mild cam. It became not a fast car but a fun car around town and ok on the highway. I kept swapping in new to me junkyard shortblocks and transmissions when I would beat the rod bearings out of them driving around lead-footed. I know you have a v8 early hemi- for sure they can be built any way you want- you have a mild hotrod right? Decent idle and off idle performance and good power to 4500? And a little more power up to maybe 5500 but if you’re like me you rarely abuse the vintage mill and you don’t have to rev it to the moon for it to be rumbly and fun anyway? I would say 3.2X if you run the interstate a lot driving to shows or 3.55 if you want a little more pep. Of course if you are mostly boppin around town 3.73 is sporty. The ultimate is a 2.76 one legger for trips and 4.10 sure grip for around town, takes about an hour or less to swap out in an 8.75 banjo rear. If you are in practice and have air or rechargable impact it can be a 20 min job. Still waiting for a ride along video- if you lived closer I’d have seen your truck in person by now!

Sorted my running issues out so took advantage of a break in the thunderstorms to go for a drive....

On those leather accelerator pumps, first thing I do it out them in light oil and let them soak while I do the rebuild, by the time I am ready for it, it's ready for work.

The 218 truck engine may only have a 4 bolt crank flange that wouldn’t work if you have Fluid Drive on the car. The truck bell housing and 3 speed are different than those used in the cars.

Ran to the pharmacy tonight. I never made it 10 feet from my car before I was approached. The questions began. Then in the store a security guard and 2 more people asked me about my old car. I make them try and guess the year. They figured I should have stepped out with a Tommy gun. Lol. They love it. A great reminder why we love to maintain and drive these old cars.

Proceeded to cruise around town. Car is running spectacular and feeling great tonight. Sometimes I entertain myself spotting photo opportunities in front of old houses.

I didnt get any pictures... but there was a late 30's Plymouth coupe with a Desoto Hemi at the Detroit Autorama this year ... fit like it was factory

oddly I don't have a pic of me driving....but my buddy got a spin....

Cleaned up, went through, and painted the steering box and column over the past couple weeks. Attached it to the frame, roughly aligned the wheels, hooked up the tie rod, and put on the steering wheel. Maybe in the next few weeks I can figure out wheels and tires and get them on. It would be fun to rig up a milk crate on a board across the frame and take it for a spin around the yard.