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The hood release inside the cabin is a nice touch on my '48, but I've often wondered how in the world would I release the hood if something broke in the release cable. The front of the car is pretty much assembled from the inside out and releasing a captive hood, though no doubt possible, would be a major aggravation. I decided a belt and suspenders approach could alleviate this unfortunate scenario. Here is a little shop project that won't take more than an hour but could prevent many hours of frustrations. All we need is an emergency hood release. The release is a short length of flex cable, a handle made out of a piece of tubing and a bug nut. The cable has a Z-bend on one end which fits in a small hole drilled in the hood release latch. The other end of the cable goes through the inner left front fender: Here is the release handle inside the inner fender, completely out of the way until it needs to save the day: The release works flawlessly.....and a kidnapped hood latch will no longer be on my "Awwwh SHOOT!" list. ?

Oh - I thought you already painted the Sportster in camo....

And I would call Animal Control regarding the dog.

Folks, don't throw away your brass heater control valves!!!! Replace the two internal rubber seals. These work. https://www.paragoncorvette.com/p-348325-heater-control-valve-seal-kit.aspx

Pull the front control Knobs off, I believe you will find a nut under each side that has to be removed to free the radio from the front speaker/radio bezel. All fun? DJ

So you admit to being a grumpy old man.. That's a positive step!! ?

Rovon Auto Parts in Coquitlam, BC, likely has the original style which I much prefer. The new ones will work but are easily bent if installed without great care. The old ones work perfectly well but it is advisable to soak them in oil before installation. If you have a groove in the yoke, it is advisable to machine and put on a speedy sleeve. Rovon Auto Parts 604-936-9312. Ask for Ron. He really likes it if you have the parts number which you do. That way, while on the phone, he can check quickly on his computer to see if he has the part. I have bought a lot of parts from him and always been satisfied.

Well, I did it. It is in the car and running great. https://postimg.cc/gallery/14dGt9m

get out the calipers....it is just that simple....

Used to have neighbors like that. We are in a small town north of Chicago in a residential area near a school. He used to take his drag car out on the street in front of the school and "test" it for acceleration. Took several calls to the local constabulary but one day he was just a bit to slow in putting the car away. Last time for that. They moved away shortly after and the house has been empty ever since(30 years or so). So no, you are not a grumpy old man. Just one who believes everything has its time and place.

in a manner of speaking I see this young kids days are numbered.....in his carelessness or numbered as a count down till he is out of jail....he has bars in front of his face he has not yet seen...Karma will win out I assure you....hopefully before your patience runs out....had a similar type in this sleepy little town....his little bee-in-a-box ricer got repossessed. Been nice and quiet again.....we can go an entire afternoon at times with no traffic and it is so calm and peaceful sitting by the firepit on the patio where the train is the only thing that defines the quiet.

Many methods, i have heel bars i sneak in and pry it out. Or turn a screw into the steel part and use a claw hammer, or a nail puller of sorts. If screw is close to edge can lever it out with side cutters. some just have to be collapsed to get out.

Does outside diameter look correct? The pinion fits relatively snug into new seal i take it? i would pop seal and compare od to old one. i do know these old rigs are a challenge for parts, like hoses, wheel and pinion seals. Even front wheel bearings and dust caps arent easy to find (cheap). Norm over at mid-canada suspension is very knowledgeable. Has some nos parts too.

It's fairly common for some of the valves to stick open when an engine sits unused for a long period of time. I'd remove the plugs on the cylinders with the stuck valves and pour some Marvel Mystery oil in the cylinders and let it sit overnight. Adding some seafoam to the fuel would also be a good idea. Start it the next day and see if the valves are free.

You might verify you have the correct bushing and U, there are variations on the size. Factory service manual should show the clearances and alignment you need. My manuals are for Plymouth for the 1930s and your 1940s Dodge truck are likely different than mine.

Update! Yesterday I swapped my 63 VW and parts for an S10 T5 transmission for the truck. A friend gave me a good complete 230 engine to replace my 218. Those two items will significantly improve the performance in power and highway mileage. Will make the swaps when I finish the Sportster. That is nearly done, some electrical and paint the body.

One more chassis only test drive video

The hose running behind the air cleaner is the drain hose for the plenum. (The plenum is the big sheet metal box under the cowl vent, that lets water get on the radio, if the drain is plugged. .

Thank you guys! I appreciate the illustration and the tip with the longer end bolts! Here is a picture of my 49, Its my first Mopar!