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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/29/2020 in all areas

  1. ok...concrete placed, screed, first float......
    4 points
  2. Maybe go get a new kitten, is the season and let it run across the pad? This lil girl we got yesterday, today she is figuring out the doggy door.
    2 points
  3. as is most all things, there is good reading on the internet in forms of white papers...and as with all subjects people write about....not all of them are truly professional and some are just your basic hacks.....silver solder is not at all hard to do and most can be done with a propane torch, flux is a basic borax blend...but there are a few rules and guide lines to follow in the process. Suggest reading a few articles first and you will find the key points will be posted in each and you will soon recognize the basic principles that separate the truth and process from that of the hacker quick fix. Supplies to get you started and grades of solder can be found at most all plumbing retailers but definitely at AC supply houses for certain. Read a few papers, practice on a piece of scrap...get comfortable with the process...as with all weld/solder cleanliness and correct process and flux are key.
    2 points
  4. I would be patient and wait for the new synchros and order some Red Line. I ordered my Red Line out of a place in Ontario and had it in three days. You have your gorgeous Chrysler to drive in the meantime. I hear you on EBay’s global shipping. I don’t know why any sellers use it. It is incredibly slow and way more expensive than using the postal service. I used to sell a lot of Mopars related stuff on eBay and always used the postal system. Never had an issue whether insured or not. There are a lot of ebayers who have lost sales to me because of the cost of global shipping. Worst thing eBay ever did. So ends the rant!
    2 points
  5. These Mopar transmissions more than likely didn't grind back in the days when in good condition. But at least there is a synthetic liquid fix it appears so far.
    2 points
  6. to mimic one of my favorite all time comedians here for this thread.....Gallagher...... It's not a slicer, it's not a dicer, it's not a chopper in a hopper, don't you want to know what it is....? Its Ram-O-matic….after a hard day of splitting your firewood, sit back and enjoy a freshly sliced cucumber...….accessories sold separately....
    1 point
  7. A lot of DIY'ers have pretty small saddle floor jacks. Not really stable enough to safely hold a big bulky transmission and have accurate control of it as it is being removed or installed IMO. There are transmission adapters that mount onto floor jack saddle mount and not really too expensive. Much safer than just using the jack with a strap. It would be a bad day to remove transmission and have it come loose from the floor jack and snip off a finger or break a arm. Yes there are other ways but a first timer getting into serious heavy lifting might better not try the floor jack method on his first trans job. Much safer to remove a M6 with the Fluid drive coupling renting a trans jack. The trans cannot hang in a FD it will damage the bellows seal assembly. Yes there are some Chinese garbage ones that are about worthless...but safer than a floor jack. I used to rent a trans jack when I was 16 after having a trans come out and land on my hand. I am just posting on safety referring not to do like the video showed. And yes there are other ways...but you do need total control when the trans comes out and goes back in... easily.
    1 point
  8. Years ago we would buy terracotta tiles from Mexico, they were hand made and then laid out in the sun to bake. Then a stray dog would wander across them and leave prints. They became very popular. Today, when you order x amount of tile, you have to open the boxes and separate the ones with paw prints. then lay them in some sort of path that makes sense. Just became so popular and a demand for the tiles with paw prints, today I think they have a hand stamp and randomly add them. I think it adds character and a lived in effect.
    1 point
  9. Roland; IMO you want to just remove and blank off the old mechanical pump altogether. Other wise it can become a potential source of fuel getting into the engine sump. Not good! Best thing is to put a regulator in. Yes on the safety switch. Ground the pump to the frame. Hth, Jeff
    1 point
  10. Thank you guys for all of the response. Mike over at mopar-direct was helpful and has already sent me new 10" shoes/pads. Also, thanks for the tech advice... I bought the adjustment tool from Keithb7 (thanks Keith). Lastly, without this forum there's not way I could have rebuilt my brakes. As I said previous, these old Mopar are fickled and not for the faint at heart. Have a great weekend all. Dave
    1 point
  11. Hey, shouldn't you be out pouring concrete??
    1 point
  12. It melts a little hotter, that's all. The alloy has some silver in it and it varies by grade. I've done it and I think it will be OK for trim metal.
    1 point
  13. You’re right RobertKB. I jumped in my big Chrysler after that post for a relaxing cruise. On a sunny warm spring evening, with the sun dropping, as you peacefully drive into it, with a great song on the radio, absolutely nothing matters. Nothing.
    1 point
  14. You trying to give me a heart attack? My wallet is clamped down so tight I did not want to spring for the bottle of gas for mig welding ... Tig setup for my welder is another $550+ Los does his best Sanford and son impression .... Look out it's the big one! I will mark tig as best answer. Sadly to get to this item in the future for adjustment or work ... pull the hood, radiator and be a contortionist to reach it ... I want to make sure it is solid the first time. And that would mean find a good welder that can do it ...
    1 point
  15. I don't think I've ever soldered stainless, but it's normally just a matter of getting things really clean, then getting the heat where it's needed. I've soldered copper pipe and copper wire, steel to steel, and copper/brass to steel. I've soldered my wire framed eyeglasses, which I used to break frequently as a kid. I've soldered little jewelry of unknown alloys. I recently bought some stuff for soldering aluminum, but I haven't tried it yet. The trickiest soldering I ever did was in a gas station in Layton Utah. The throttle cable of my Yamaha had broken at the twist end. The guy had solder but no soldering iron. I managed to heat the ferrule with a BIC lighter, and poke out the broken end with the remaining (trimmed) cable. I had pre-tinned the cable, and it soldered instantly. When it's done right, it happens fast.
    1 point
  16. Good work John. As a suggestion, one thing that I am glad I did was to paint the back side of the dash a light colour. In my case I used a flat high fill primer on both sides that was a very light yellow. Now when I do work behind the dash with a trouble light I find it easier to see the various wires etc. against the light background. As I get older my eyes get weaker so every little thing helps. Phil
    1 point
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