Leaderboard

Thank you, let me try again. Hopefully these aren't too small.

Great looking truck, I agree with a compression check before doing anything. If for no other reason but a starting point. Rings will get sticky, valves gummy, from sitting ... sounds like yours was stuck at one point ... naturally would expect stuck rings also. These old engines will start to improve compression and valves will start seating after they run some. Get a few heat cycles going .... but was told stuck rings really like to run in their power band while driving, not just sit and idle. That will get them loosened up and working as should. My truck sat for 10+ years, compression was all over the place on the cylinders, I wrote them down. #2 cyl was at 60 psi. Let it run a short time and was up to 75psi, Last time I checked I think it was up to 90psi. This is why I suggest a compression check just to monitor progress. At this stage I probably idle maybe 6 hours, and try to avoid long idle sessions and wait till can drive it to see improvements.

Backed it out out of the garage on Tuesday fellas and it stopped for the first time with its brand new installed complete brake system while running on fuel from its own tank. A huge step in this project. Now it is at what I consider ground zero. Without brakes and fuel I was in the negative but now I'm about even. Looking to get into the plus. Now is when the real fun starts: getting fixed up for street travel. I know I don't update the thread very often but I'm still at it guys! But as the title of the thread states, it's still smoking like a banshee. Runs like a Swiss watch but smokes something fierce. Through some discussions I'm thinking a head gasket change is the solution. But come to think of it I've probably only had it running about 1 hr total since I freed it up so maybe there is still oil in the muffler. I'll run it some more and see but a head gasket is probably a good idea anyway. Cheers!

I spent years living on the water, but it was in a US Navy destroyer, lol.

46Desoto: Where are you located? Is the car a 4 door or a coupe. Take some pictures. I own a 1939 Desoto with three on the tree is yours a fluid drive car? Ask a lot of questions. You will need to get at least a three arm drum puller to removed the rear drums because this is a tapered axle setup. Also note that on the right side of the car you have right hand nuts or bolts and on the left side you will probably have left handed threaded nut or bolt. The bolts should be marked either R or L. So becaredul to verify which way you try to remove the lug bolts or lug nuts. I you ever take the car to a mechanic remind them at least three or more time of this fact and also that the car is 6 Volt POSITIVE Ground and not Negative Ground like the cars that you are accustom to working on. If you have to replace the battery cable do not go to the napa store and get the regular 12 volt battery cable. You need to get the larger 6volt size 00 or 1 thicker cable because of only using a 6v battery. we all have done the 12 volt and they do not carry enough voltage. You have basically an Autolite electrical system for dizzy, points, rotor, condenser and vacuum Advance. I can give you the appropriate numbers for the replacement parts but need to know the number that is on the dizzy body such IGT4102. Parts are specific to the dizzy. The brakes are Lockheed and are not what you are typical to a more modern car. If you contact me I can explain in more details and you will have two wheel cylinders be wheel. Take you time to get to know the car. Best advise is to get a 19-46-48 Desoto Service Manual and also a Parts book. These are valueable piece of literature to have when workingonthe car and will answer a lot of your questions. There isa water distribution tube in the engine block behind the water pump this distributes the water to the back of the block to keep the valves cool. These get rust and will have to be removed and it can be easy or it can be a real trying experience. We all have done these so ask around on the forum. Again my name is rich Hartung I live near valley Forge pa just outside of Philadelphia you can contact me. I have a lot of cross reference catalogs for looking for replacement parts for these older Desoto and Mopar cars and trucks. Looking forward to seeing pictures and hearing from you There is a National Desoto Club and the 2020 Convention is going to be held in Wisconsin The contact person is Dave Frank 262-745-8161 desoto2020@outlook.com. every year it moves to a different state. The NDC can be found at www.desoto.org you can also contact the 46-48 model year coordinator he is a good friend of mine and he is the president of the club Les Pesavento 586-945-5105 lesterpes@gmail.com You can tellhim that I gave you his name. Both of us have a vendor spot at the fall Hershey swap meet if you ever make it to Hershey, PA in October. Hope this gets you going in the right direction. Rich Hartung Desoto1939@aol.com cell 484-431-8157 home 610-630-9188

Small world! I live just down the road from the original LeMay collection at Marymount.

Tacoma...Cool spot. I go down there once in a while. I’ve tipped more than a few back at the McMillions repurposed, old Elks Hall there. I’m just above you in BC. I was at the Hemmings Great Race finish line at LeMay There last summer. There was also a local car show at the event. Good turn out. Saw some nice local cars. Its a good spot to be a car lover it seems.

It sounds to me that you are trying to shift the mechanical control (not sure if it is a lever or a control cable in your case). If so, that is a definite no-no. On the later ones the manual specifically states that you shouldn't pull the control cable out unless you are at a complete stop. This engages a pawl into a square cut gear, and doesn't go in well if it is moving. You need to find out how to do an electrical downshift, which is very different. Marty

You’re gonna fit in here real well. Welcome to the “I’d rather bust my butt all weekend rather than pay anyone a dime to lay a finger on my old Mopar” - car club. It’s a long name for a club, but there sure are lots of members here.

You will do well with the flattie and will really enjoy working on it....welcome to the community! Very nice slant six.....(but I have to say this.......replace that plastic fuel filter with a metal one......). ?

No problem! I'm 38, but I've grown up wrenching on cars since I was a teenager. My first vehicle was a '63 Chevy II station wagon with a 194 six. My stepfather helped me work on the car and taught me a lot along the way. After a couple of years we rebuilt a 327 and replaced the 6. I moved away (Army) for 8 years but while I was gone I couldn't stay away from wrenching and got into Corvairs, 80's GM F bodies and G bodies. I did some pretty extensive backyard tinkering on the G bodies especially - boxed frames, fabricated 4 link rear end swaps, rebuilt Olds 455, etc. I missed the style of older iron but wanted to learn something different than a GM platform and found an interest in Mopar A bodies. They're relatively affordable and a lot of fun - started with a 318 swap in a 66 Dart GT and most recently have been working on a 1964 Valiant. With the Valiant I comited to trying to keep the vehicle mostly stock and just using it as a fun cruiser. Its a 170 slant 6 car and I've had a blast with it. I put a new fuel tank and sending unit in the car and ran all new brake lines with a dual master cylinder upgrade. Restored the gauges and push button transmission selector, rebuilt the carb and unfroze the manifold heat riser and recently upgraded the ignition to an HEI style. I welded in a new spare tire well. It still needs some floor patches. While learning about the slant platform, I read about the flatheads that predated them and wanted to learn. I looked at a few 40's Mopars that were in far worse shape (and a lot more money) than the DeSoto, so patience paid off for me. I'm very much a DIY'er and I would prefer to spend an entire weekend on a simple job than pay to have it done. I'm mechanically inclined, but I do like to learn and this is my first vehicle older than 1960's era, so it seems I've got my work cut out for me.

We're on our 4th house in nearly 50 years. All of them were higher elevations for this very reason. The house we are in now would be overflowing with people long before the water reached us. Those folks that were flooded out are fortunate to be alive. My guess is that most all of them will rebuild on the very property that was flooded.

Michael, Okay I understand what you're getting at now. Thanks for the post and your concern. I appreciate you looking out for me ? Anyway, I'm no expert on this stuff. I'm certain my car is never going to boil over or develop a crack in the block. Sounds a little arrogant as I type this, but I don't mean it that way. I have 10-12K miles on the rebuild, and those are miles at speeds up to 70mph and at parade creeping speeds too, and in temps from -33F to 98F. My engine was completely cleaned by my builder (with some type of acid wash), and the distribution tube was in great shape. Also, I absolutely trust the Evans waterless coolant I use, which is guaranteed for the life of the engine, even if the car changes owner's hands. The boiling point is 375F and I believe it's -65F on the other end. Now, as far as why my temp needle pegs out and yours does not, I haven't a clue. Could just be the differences in the engines or coolants, maybe one or the other's gauges may be faulty? I honestly don't have a clue. I know that most of the Fords I've owned were so hot after engine shut off that I had to wear gloves to pop the hood most of the time. I also know that the 413 industrial truck engine in my 69 Dodge fire truck has such good flow (and sodium filled exhaust valves don't hurt) that at full temperature you can hold on to the valve covers with your bare hand for as long as you want and not get burned. Anyway, anyone who has any opinions please share ?

Thank you! The car has been in the same family since purchased new, the sellers were a little emotional as we finalized the purchase. I found some service tags inside of the drivers door and just as the sellers said, it was parked for a very long time. The difference between the current mileage and what was recorded on the 1984 service sticker is less than 50 miles.

Wow, that’s gonna be an awesome project, I’m envious of your find! Welcome! -roland

You are welcome. Let me know if you have any more questions and good luck!

Wow! What a beautiful truck, love it just like it is! I’d do a compression test to Check on the head gasket, before replacing.

Idling around will not completely cook out all the oil in the pipe, exhaust will need to be hot, end to end. that truck looks awesome! As far as body/ paint goes i wouldnt change a thing! i know about slow progress, been there.

Have you tried it at 23 MPH or less with foot lightly on the throttle....not coasting? Have you also tried pulling it out of OD with it kicked down...throttle to the floor ? But probably reading the owners manual or shop manual would be a good place to look first.

I found this drawing of a '48 Plymouth. Is your Desoto the same? I see a hood latch cable here too.

Our sales taxes are going to end up as much as the item pretty soon because of the current situation going on.

Congrats. Welcome to our favorite hobby. We’re all excited and happy to have another new person join us in our passion. You’ll find tons of great information and people here willing to help. You Tube is a good source too for help. Sorry I can’t help you on the hood latch. My ‘53 Chrysler hood latch is out at the front, behind the grill. Up top, near the hood.

yes paint it with a primer and then paint it a black to prevent any rusting rich hartung desoto1939@aol.com.

Ditto! After reading this thread, I decided I will try Red Line MTL 75/80W in the rebuilt tranny of my '51Dodge business coupe. It shifts a bit roughly from 2 to 3 unless I go really slowly. I have been told by a couple of people that I am probably running the wrong oil in it. At present it has GL-5 80/90W. I'll see if the Red Line makes a difference and post back on this thread.

The best description I can give you is the upper is "IN" and the lower is "OUT" of the filter. The mount has the "IN" on the left (towards the front of the truck) and the "OUT" on the right (towards the cab). This diagram shows it better than I can describe. Hope this helps. Oh and your right JBNeal, when I took this picture I had added some oil and put the cap on backwards. Fixed it before driving. Always a good idea to double check your work not matter the detail! ?

Regarding tach readings my ancient one uses no outside power connection. Just hook the red lead to either the +or- on the coil depending which ground system you are using and set the scale then connect the black to ground. Ready to go. I have used it on both pos and neg systems with no trouble.

Here are some more low rez shots of the flowers and trees. I planted the five redwood trees in 2002, which are now 50 feet tall, but my wife planted all the other flowers and shrubs, and I hired people to put in the sod. Back patio: The eucalyptus tree was here when we moved in and it is huge such that we have to have it pruned back every year. Plants everywhere you look, thanks to my wife. Kitchen windowsill Back wall: The Bermuda triangle:

we also haven’t done a garden in years Julie and I recycled the wood from a one ton truck bed recently planted cool weather veggies in this raised bed. Have a larger area in a sunnier spot in the ground for the warmer weather veggies, but are a month away for that.....

Just an update from New Zealand. Have decided to stay stock. Have repainted chassis and are now rebuilding front end. Have also just purchased a rebuilt '35 Dodge senior motor. So any any help on where to get parts etc would be greatly appreciated.

On ‎8‎/‎21‎/‎2017 at 1:19 PM, 52b3b Joe said: I am still continuing to find some more darn mouse homes! I think the car served as an apartment complex for the mice! you got a rat rod and didn't even know it....